DeLaSoul
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Posts posted by DeLaSoul
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Civic on track!
Not really an update, I was just well chuffed to find some photos of the car from my time at the Nurburgring. I didn't realise there were so many photographers taking pictures!!! This was one of the better ones as you can't really see me
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eyebrows.gif1DAS ES GUTE YA friday.gif1They should save it TBH
if its were i think your been
Das ist sehr gut! Pics to follow in my thread when I get home but the ol' deck will be sporting a well earned Nurburgring sticker after several sucessful laps. I can feel a road trip for next year coming on already
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eyebrows.gif1DAS ES GUTE YA friday.gif1They should save it TBH
if its were i think your been
Das ist sehr gut! Pics to follow in my thread when I get home but the ol' deck will be sporting a well earned Nurburgring sticker after several sucessful laps. I can feel a road trip for next year coming on already
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Lol I have no idea. I can honestly say now I've driven my mc2 hard that it's awesome. I will post some pics :t when I get home on Tuesday, but lets just say a certain German toll road has been a good testing ground today
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Lol I have no idea. I can honestly say now I've driven my mc2 hard that it's awesome. I will post some pics :t when I get home on Tuesday, but lets just say a certain German toll road has been a good testing ground today
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They are the biz
very happy, Familiar 
Why have you got some 
0D?setting best do ya recon 
what they set yours @daveOkay, dug out the geo print out:
Caster 1D00' give or take (non adjustable)
Camber (FRT) -0D28' each side
Toe (FRT) 0D04' each side, 0D07' total
Camber (RR) -1D00' each side
Toe (RR) 0D07' each side, 0D14' total
Setback 0mm
car is awesome and I trust my setup guys numbers (especially after driving it)
HTH
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They are the biz very happy, Familiar Why have you got some 0D?setting best do ya recon what they set yours @dave
Okay, dug out the geo print out:
Caster 1D00' give or take (non adjustable)
Camber (FRT) -0D28' each side
Toe (FRT) 0D04' each side, 0D07' total
Camber (RR) -1D00' each side
Toe (RR) 0D07' each side, 0D14' total
Setback 0mm
car is awesome and I trust my setup guys numbers (especially after driving it)
HTH
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presents to me for win,C.O.M.
skunk2 adjustable rear camber links,need to straighten wee bit in a hybolics press this is the good one..[attachment=0]IMAG0389%20skunk%20pooh!!.jpg[/attachment] looks familiar. Good bit of kit, you just need a pair of 22mm spanners to adjust them -
presents to me for win,C.O.M.
skunk2 adjustable rear camber links,need to straighten wee bit in a hybolics press this is the good one..[attachment=0]IMAG0389%20skunk%20pooh!!.jpg[/attachment] looks familiar. Good bit of kit, you just need a pair of 22mm spanners to adjust them -
A quick Q david through my readings when lowering ect people swap the top arms fronts over, L-R ect
for caster/or KPI? ect can you do comparison for us please thanks in advance.
or anybody else for that matter
I know from the alignment I had done that the caster were out on the readings until the car was setup at ride height/camber and then the caster came back into an "acceptable range" according to the geo machine (I questioned the numbers when he was setting it up as I though Caster would be a constant on a double wishbone setup). I was worried that we would need to pull the upper arms off and shim/spin the bushes over to get the right figures but it was all good in the end.
I don't know the stock readings, but I can find the alignment sheet and give you the final reading if that's any help? I know that until everything else was setup the figures were more positive than they should have been (or greater KPI than stock) I have never heard of people swapping left to right tbh, and I can't think why you'd want to as surely it would give a negative/lower caster angle?
More caster = more on power steering or greater camber change at lock
I will be picking the car up tomorrow so I can check the figures then.
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A quick Q david through my readings when lowering ect people swap the top arms fronts over, L-R ect
for caster/or KPI? ect can you do comparison for us please thanks in advance.
or anybody else for that matter
I know from the alignment I had done that the caster were out on the readings until the car was setup at ride height/camber and then the caster came back into an "acceptable range" according to the geo machine (I questioned the numbers when he was setting it up as I though Caster would be a constant on a double wishbone setup). I was worried that we would need to pull the upper arms off and shim/spin the bushes over to get the right figures but it was all good in the end.
I don't know the stock readings, but I can find the alignment sheet and give you the final reading if that's any help? I know that until everything else was setup the figures were more positive than they should have been (or greater KPI than stock) I have never heard of people swapping left to right tbh, and I can't think why you'd want to as surely it would give a negative/lower caster angle?
More caster = more on power steering or greater camber change at lock
I will be picking the car up tomorrow so I can check the figures then.
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Just been through your build and your deck looks awesome - right colour, right wheels and ride height just sets it off. Can't wait to see it with the mid spoiler painted & installed
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Just been through your build and your deck looks awesome - right colour, right wheels and ride height just sets it off. Can't wait to see it with the mid spoiler painted & installed
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manifold looks good mate, when i get one i will drop it off lol
and as for the 13 row oil cooler i sold one last week new and unused, shame as only went for 25
was a mocal one too. if only i had known..
Always the way, never mind -
why not do the whole exhaust mani to tip
Not needed, and at the cost of a roll I'm dammed if I'm doing the whole thing! I want to reduce the heat in the bay and it should in turn help keep the intake temps down during normal driving and up power by keeping the exhaust gases hotter exiting the engine.
someone was selling dc2 oil coolers on ebay a month or so ago for about 45 quid... I spent a few days poring over the workshop manual for the m and comparing it to the teg manual.I was reading somewhere on the web about someone who'd added one to his gsr, and I think he had to drill a new port into the block?
ended up falling into the too complicated box for me.. but i did wonder if you could just tap into the cooling system somewhere else... also, the m's got a smaller radiator than the teg, so wasn't sure if it could cope.
sorry for ramblin
loving all of the awsomising that you're doing to the deck
1"£££$££"!!
Not a bad idea, but I have been looking at the Mocal oil coolers and taking the feed from a sandwich plate fitted to the filter opening on the back of the block. As long as I use a temp controlled switch to open the flow to the cooler when the oil gets hot enough it should be okay. I can mount a 13 row cooler in front of the a/c rad for now, but I need to check the flows/pressure is enough for that length of oil lines. As this isn't my daily driver I can spend a bit of time planning the jobs, getting the bits and working it out as I go
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Cheers guys, I like bling but heat is a killer in the bay. I am looking into an oil cooler and bonnet lifters to improve things.
ace !!!what manifold is it ??
Tegiwa, funny thing is it looks an awful lot like the Toda but at a fraction of the price
I have the new collector flange, I need to *coughremove* the cat before I fit it. -
Cheers guys, updated the existing "how to" with a few tips from the job. Still itching even now....
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did you get any further with adjustable rear arb links?
No not yet, been busy at work making new parts on the lathe so other "projects" have been put on hold
I did manage to heat wrap the new manifold though, came out better than expected but I did itch like mad for a while afterwards
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wow, that's a serious piece of bodywork, I shuddered just fitting the standard front lip
Keep up the good work - any plans for the front of the car?
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awesome build!
Thanks
First "proper" drive last night without trade plates, now she is all taxed up and legal. Needs a little fine tuning on the damping for track/spirited driving but on the road long distance she is spot on.
Ride is firm but still compliant enough not to smash my spine to pieces, car is sooooo much sharper on turn in with the rear ARB. Stance is almost spot on for my liking, may need a small adjustment at the rear by 5mm or so but a 2 minute job.
Happy happy happy!!!
Spec so far:
Front -
Buddy club P1 Camber links
Avo GTZ coilovers
350lbs springs
1" drop
Honda OEM ARB bushes
Energy Suspension bushes (wishbones & top mounts)
HEL brake lines
EBC USR Discs
EBC Greenstuff pads
DOT 5.1 brake fluid
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, steering rack bushes, gear linkage bushes
Rear -
Skunk2 Camber links
Skunk2 "Black series" LCA's
Avo GTZ coilovers
200lbs springs
1" drop
Energy suspension top mount bushes
MG ZS 20mm ARB
Mugen trailing arm bushes
Competition bushing toe compensator bushes
HEL brake lines
SW98 16"x7" wheels, Toyo T1R 205/45/ZR16 tyres
Dave
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what make are you rear camber adjusters mate? they look bloody awesome
Hi, they are Skunk2 camber adjusters from a an EG/DC2.
edit: Sorry, now I'm at a computer not using a bloody phone
Skunk2 Camber adjusters from the EG/DC2. Straight fit, no mods needed. I needed adjustment with all the other mods to get the camber back "on track"
Dave
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Be nice, pity you didnt wait and do the traking ect after this final stage of perfection,but no doubt a mate can do a quickie
Won't need it, I'm not taking anything apart that will effect the geometry. I can remove the calliper, undo the drive shaft and split all 3 ball joints, done this before
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Awesome job, good pics too. Now I can see how it all comes off. Keep up the good work.
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never sell this!!! and if you do, sell it to me lol!
lol, no plans on selling it just yet. Now I've driven it I got a few more ideas brewing
Going to drive it over Germany next month to watch the superbikes, plenty of time to sort all the ideas out and budget.MM will be easier job with rack/shift rods out of the way and mani/ cat ect.Hopefully. Thinking about changing the bottom ball joints as well now as they will be the final component in the suspension, plus they are pretty cheap
. They were okay when I checked them but it would be a shame not to do them and that really would be EVERY component on the suspension. I need to put the car in the air and take off the hubs, so a good opportunity to get the last of the motor mount & rack bushes sorted.
MC2 Project - Chassis prep
in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Posted
Cheers, I searched google for Nurburgring photos and found a page listing all the photographers there at the weekend. I ran through several thousand pics, found 4 of my car and ordered them without watermarks.
I will post the rest Monday when I'm at a computer
The other shots are cool, but this was my favourite.
Thanks. Pro pics really make all the difference.
Car handled really well, just lacks torque on the hills. Plans underway to sort that
Aerodeck = practical and fun
Cheers. Will upload the rest on Monday