DeLaSoul

Would be worth a really close look. I had a quick scan through the hatch and aerodeck do look different. I also went back through my photos from 2015 (when I first got the panels) and it looks like I did indeed get the one off the hatch looking at the rear light. The quarter is slightly different at the bumper edge and very different around the light. When mine was cut in it was pretty much just at the wheel arch so the light issue wasn't and issue. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8mbqbnwKcYeLW9i39 Wiring off my phone so can't post a photo but the link should show the genuine Honda and aftermarket patch panels I had to do the job. At least the body shop can fix it easily

I hope I don't ever crash, but you never know! I've found out where to replace the lights so I'm not to worried, the brackets on the other hand..... Back in the bodyshop this weekend to sort the rear bumper alignment. Trailer refresh made it even better to tow (it was good before) and the electric winch made working alone easy. Also got to find all the leaks, luckily only a few small ones in the scuttle where I drilled the fire and electrical pull cords Back bumper didn't align on the right side and it's been a mystery for a few months. Luckily Ed figured it out, the quarter panel I have was from a hatch and is quite different around the bumper/arch interface Mounting holes are a mile apart too So it's time to cut and shape the arch to match the bumper. Already 60% there and he only started on it this afternoon! Going to roller the arches at the same time too. At least now I don't have to worry about replacement bumpers if I damage one as a new one will bolt straight on.

That would be a good day out! Give me another 3 years to finish the car and I'll be there! I know I've had the dashboard in a number of times, but I've moved the dash over an inch to better line up with the steering wheel and my seating position. Center console is just placed in as it needs more cutting to go around the oil line to the Accusump.

Cheers, I know it'll start to slow down as it's all small jobs for the next few weeks. I bought the trailer with a mate a few years ago and he uses it for his business and stores it and my truck, I use it when ever I need it. He did all the maintenance on it so I'm happy with that, should last a few more years now! Get it done mate, there's something therapeutic about working on the car every now and then

Small jobs until the car goes in for the engine but all helps: Repainted the grill, better prep this time. Black plastidip so can change it anytime. Also found the other fog lamp, I think these look so much better than the smaller ones! Routed and connected the accusump hose. Had to cut away the inner bulkhead skin so I could get the nut on and mount the oil fitting securely. I hate these jobs especially now the car's painted Had to redo the other side of this as I had the non-return valve on the wrong side of the fitting. Took the time to re-route the PS hoses too. Need a new mount to keep them from rubbing on the oil lines but can sort that later. Rebuilt the gear shift linkage, new polybushes and all powder coated parts, Buddyclub short shift and weighted gear-knob Also repainted the surround in the car. Reset the seat and harnesses correctly. I had the seat 1 hole out but now sits perfect Tied down all the pipes and hoses to the rear (bar the fuel lines) so all looks good. Need to do the same at the bulkhead next Finally, a friend has redone the trailer from front to back. All new paint, lights ramps and boards. Also fitted the electric winch so no more sore arms winding the car on and off anymore! The Aerodeck goes back to the bodyshop next weekend to sort the rear bumper then in for the engine and gearbox to be installed. Coming down to the final fixes plus the exhaust and it's ready for mapping!!

Chassis is already rigid enough! I have a video somewhere of it rocking on the axle stands after I got it back from having the cage put in. All the windows are now in, just had the last one to drill and secure last night so it's all set to go off and have the engine installed

It came from Track Day Doorcards, Simon is on Facebook and very helpful. Not sure exactly what the material is called but it came as 4 easy to cut sheets of plastic, a bag of fixings, 2 door pulls in a colour of your choice and the covers to keep it all neat. The templates tale the time to make but weren't difficult. Just loads of little jobs left to go that will all add up! Rear windows are all now bonded and bolted in. Boot lid now feels solid to close and no longer rattles and the same for the rear quarters. Plastics 4 Performance did a great job with them. Just the drivers side windows left to bolt in and the car is "sealed" Accusumo is now bolted down to the rear floor. I can now run the pipes to the bulkhead and wire in the remote control to the dashboard Rear end is taking shape, so I can start to clamp down all the hoses, pipes and cables. WIndscreen trims are also now in and looking good (apart from they need s damn good clean ). The 4 wires for the heating elements need to be routed and I thought they'd go into the cabin under the seal but I was told they need to go into the scuttle panel so I'll have to find a way to route them and wire them up. THink I've already found a way but need to check by doing it.

I was on holiday for a week but managed to bring some parts back with me Thank you, seems like a never ending task at the moment as I keep finding little jobs to do! Short update since getting back; I've fitted some roll cage protection so I don't damage the paint lifting stuff in and out and later on don't damage myself it I hit the cage! Drivers door pull is also now on, and put cage protector up above my head. Hope I can't get anywhere near the top one! Need to make the rear door cards, so made up the template Need to photo the finished card but only the rear left one to do. I have found the door lock mechanism so will fit that the same as the front door. Oil System - I have the Accusump system to install but first I needed more parts so had to get a load of fitting so got some for all the other hoses at the same time. New Accusump hoses and fittings, including a one way valve to makesure the oil goes the right way back to the engine! T-piece fitting on the bulkhead runs into the car and back to the accusump reservoir. Now need the engine back in to trim the hoses connecting to the engine. Also started to make up the oil breather hose from the back of the engine. Accusump with remote opening valve and new fittings ready to install Needed to fit a cahmber for the MAP sensor so made a bracket and installed under the intake manifold. Just have to run the 4 small hoses to connect it to the intake runners Last of the bolts turned up for the engine so all the hardware has now been refreshed! Last job yesterday was installing the windscreen and side windows by bonding them in. Found a windscreen guy locally who did the job for me, although my hands are still covered in the sealant! All the bonded panels are installed like the rear quarters, rear screen and front screen. Now have to run the cables for the heating elements back so I can connect them up in the cabin

Let's just hope it stays in place! I checked the sealant when I left for work and it's almost set so 24hrs should be about right. As silly as it sounds, it's starting to look like a Honda again with the stickers back on. I may scan and make the rear badges as stickers to see what they are like

Doesn't look like the last picture of the decal loaded so I'll try again Had to do a little bit of work on the roof to get it ready to fit. I had several coats of UV resistant lacquer put on it but it had a few defects. Decided to smooth them out before fitting, easier place to get water while sanding was in the bath Secure from the outside first... Then from the inside to check its alignment Had to mask the roof off to make sure I didn't get the sealant everywhere but the alignment still wasn't right Simple ways are often the best While the inside was secured an easy way too. You'll notice the aluminium blocks on the inside of the roof. These have been bonded and bolted to the carbon and drilled and tapped on the underside. I'll make and bolt 3 braces inside that will hopefully stop the roof from being pulled out by air pressure at speed. Then taped up the inside gap to stop the sealant dropping through Hopefully it will all be bonded in the next few days but this stuff was going off before i was finished! Not going to remove the clips and tape until Thursday just in case though, and then see if it's stiffened the roof. If not, I've got a plan to sort that later....

Were you watching me.... Of course I was, even had the harness on! Pedals felt weird but then I remembered I need my racing shoes as my steel toe caps are too wide. Carbon roof next and then it's onto sealing in the last of the windows and the chassis is mobile again without covers so I can trailer it down for the engine install

Brake lines were the task for the today, needed to keep busy All the pipework needs clipping into place but it's all routed apart from the pedal box. Had to put the decals back on the rear doors next as I've been itching to do it for a while. Fire and fuel lines next... Again, needs to be clipped in. The fuel lines seem way too long, looks like I'll need to re-route or shorten them.

Good Friday, good day on the car more like! Passenger door card now in and the door lock taken into account. Traced it out for the drivers side I know not everything under the dash is done but I wanted to fit everything so I could work out where to mount the door pulls and get a feel for what it's like to sit in the seat once more Dash isn't quite lined up so need to adjust the brackets it's sitting on next time I take it out. Switch panel is perfect though, won't hit it accidentally, can easily reach it with the harness on and yes I spent a while in the drivers seat! Love how comfortable it is and I can still get in and out easily. It does feel weird with the door card in place as before you could rest on the roll cage and your arm would go into the door but I should have both hands on the wheel anyway. Also couldn't help test fitting the windscreen You can see the heating elements on the inside but not when you are looking through the glass. I've never totally unwrapped it before but the wires to the heating elements are at the bottom so should be easy to hide under the dash Got around to test fitting the centre console too. All the main switches are in easy reach, but I think I now know what is going to the left had side of the digital dash - any switch I need quickly as there is a lot going on with all the circuit breakers! Plus it's not easy to see some of them Last job was to start on the door pulls. Whole reason of fitting the seat in the first place - see where I could reach the pull strap and then work out how to mount it. Did the passenger side first once I'd figured it out It's mounted to a 2mm aluminium plate that's fixed back to the door structrure rather than the door card. Less chance of some ham-fisted idiot pulling off the door card later on!

Yes, both front windows have vents and I have a small fan blower behind the dashboard True, it won't be on the road but I want to be cool/warm. If it becomes too much then I'll look to put small vents in the rear windows to pull air out of the cabin

A little bit more work on the car to get the door cards on, not difficult just time consuming to get it right.

Should be okay then, and as you say the IACV can be turned off in the mapping

IACV and MAP won't work together on ITB's I don't think, it's one or the other. I have wired both options but if it's meant for track the IACV isn't needed

Mark from BYC should be back in the UK about now so he can sort one out for you. Don't think he's updated the website but he has all the patterns for the spoiler, skirts and front splitter mounts. Solid guy, very helpful Wiring will look better once all the mounts for it are in and it's all tucked up under the intake properly. I wanted something to tidy the engine bay and I've gone cap head around the rest of the bay. I shouldn't need one for a track car, but I've heard it's easier to map with one that doing alpha n. It's either that or IACV, and I have the wiring for each in the loom.

Few updates over the weekend - Race Technologies came back to me about the Speedo reading being out on the DASH2 - seems I discovered a bug in the last firmware and the display was showing m/s not MPH?!?! New software installed on the laptop, just need to connect to the DASH2 and update the program. Glad we can sort it! Engine - went down and did a few jobs on the engine like fit the cam cover baffles, properly fit the cam cover, modify the timing belt cover to clear the 4 Piston oil pump and Fluidamper bottom pulley etc. etc. I'd lost all the timing belt bolts so Hond-R to the rescue on Saturday morning as they had a spare set. Bloody typical that I then find them all as soon as I went to work on the engine! Little details like fitting the S2 washer kit and some MPC washers to the V-TEC solenoid and intake with all Stainless fittings just set it off for me too Wiring needs to be pinned up at the back but it all fits. Need to do this before it gets put back in the car but really need the gearbox and T brace refitted first so will have to be done while the engine is on the hoist I also have to fit the vaccum collector block for the MAP sensor. To be totally honest I don't need it, I can run the ECU on alpha n but it won't hurt to put it on for the sake of tuning. Just makes the back of the engine harder to work on. I've made the bracket, just need to fit it. Sunday - nice weather so pushed the chassis outside to fit all the little bits to the doors. I bought a set of the little clips that hold the outer door seals in place so I could make sure it they all went back in correctly. Quick blast and rub down with silicone spray, fill in the missing gaps with the little clips and refit all 4 seals Also bolted in the passneger side windows to the the doors and took the covers off the rear quarter panel and boot lid windows. Had to refit the side skirts and align them properly after I took them off to do the wiring in the front wings. Front bumper is also now secure, and I've modifed it to take the larger fog lamps. Just can't find the other lamp, must have put it safe when I was cleaning the garage....... Yes I know I need to re-paint the grill!

NOOOO, where the battery tray was or if you've ditched the ABS look over there

That's what I was looking to do but it's a lot of work to build the mount that's secure enough. Not impossible but that's why I put mine where I did as it was easier, secure and not easy to damage. Take a knock to the bumper and lose power steering? No thank you!

Interesting, so where are you going to mount the EHPS pump?

Cheers, I will try and get some pics this weekend. Still got the MAP sensor to fit somewhere under the manifold once I mount the vacuum bar and that's all the wiring on the engine done. At the moment the wires are left long just in case.

Me, anti social? Pah, never! It's good to be able to see how it sits, it's a lot lower on the front now with the extended ball joints and that's without the engine back in! Speaking of the engine - V-TEC solenoids, shiny one for the rebuild. All cleaned, new seals and filter and Skunk2 cap to top it off Bottom pulley needs to be fitted but I have to trim the lower timing belt cover to make it fit so I couldn't fit it on the weekend. Wiring all fits and is mostly hidden behind the engine Almost ready to drop in! DASH2 has been a total headache to get operational. Race Technologies have been great in helping remotely through email and phone calls and it now is 95% there. I've set the screens to read any data channel I can find at the minute. MPH is out but that probably a formula I have wrong somewhere. It's a factor of 5 out consistently so should be easy to fix. Gear is coming from the ECU at the moment and should clear once the chassis is moving. Either the dash can calculate the gear or the ECU and send the data. Basically, if the ECU can read it, it can send it so it's then a matter of making the dash read it. You can only send 15 items which is more than enough! The dash is connected to the ECU by CANBUS like all modern cars which is only 2 wires, so you have to format the data from the ECU into something the DASH2 can pickup and then tell the DASH2 how to decode it. The DASH2 can be made to send alarms if it sees any bad readings like a low oil pressure or high water temp. It was making the 2 items talk which was a headache. Even though RT have done it before, any minor issue with the setup of the ECU or DASH2 CANBUS would mean nothing would come up on the display. Some screen shots below. The MPH works when I connect the VSS to a drill

Cheers mate. Got the ECU up and running today, thank you for the data on that. Not tried the map yet but the ECU is reading the sensors I have managed to connect while on the bench and didn't short anything out so I'm really happy about that. Just figuring out how to make it talk to the dash next and it can all go back into the car! The CANBUS link seems to be a little bit sketchy, Race Technologies are going to call and dial into my laptop tomorrow to go through the settings to see it it's something simple, hoping it is.