DeLaSoul

Sorry, mis read this as "I spank it daily", you can keep that info to yourself

I must admit, there are times I climb into the seat and don't want to get out. Love the new wheel and harnesses!

Yes in the end. Once all filled and smoothed I will filler prime and smooth off (not glass smooth like the roof but close) and then make a skirt around the edge to stop any gel coat or fibre glass going around the edge then take a fibre glass mould from this wooden plug. Once set, pull out the wooden plug, apply wax and release agents and fill back in with gel coat and fibre glass that will give me light weight custom dash. I'll have this flocked so finish doesn't have to be perfect

That's dependant on how quick I can save the extra cash To be honest yes it should. I've ordered a few more small pieces for the dash build and that will confirm is any more welding is needed inside. The bodyshop is fitting the new wing and handling any rust on the underside in their work. The last thing I want is to paint the car and find it needs more bits adding on or holes drilling so the quicker I can finish the dry build the better. I know the rad mounts and oil coolers still need to be sorted but I hope I can hang the 2 coolers from the front bumper bracket. Getting ever closer......

Cheers. For the exhaust I was going to hand the car to Liquid Metal in Bicester and have them fabricate something on the car. I've had a Powerflow system before and they can tune the noise to suit but they do get louder with more driving. That will be one of the last things to go on the car! Sorry, been away a lot with work but some progress. I'll try and summarise: Bonnet catches - DONE Went for paint/bodywork quote. Mild heart attack - more pennies to be saved Return, started the refit. New deep dish steering wheel to bring the wheel closer to me to make it more comfortable Good but not perfect Routing power and fuel lines down the tunnel plus working out where the mini heater will fit Fuel lines go through in the top right corner of the dash Fuel filter with dry break quick disconnect and safety locking system. All made by a local hydraulics company Windscreen washer bottle - new left, stock right Should save room and weight Sunroof plug mould - mounted on wooden panel and filled the underside Need to expand the mould by a few mm as the roof opening is 10mm bigger than the panel. 3.6mm ply sheet all around to give less of a gap to put the sealant into There is a gap under the lip of the roof panel where the rubber seal went so filled in the majority of it with wire, all that I had to hand! Made up the corners in sections as the wood will not bend enough in one piece Filler, sand, filler, sand, filler, sand, filler, sand........................ Just needs filler primer and a final sanding and the plug is done!!! Stock dash was becoming a nightmare to plug all the holes ready to take a mould from So went back to my own design. Needed to be modified to take the centre vent (which gives access to the middle mounting screw), side plate angle in slightly to make it easier to remove from the mould tool and the top edge rounding off to match the curve of the screen Seen this trick done for speaker boxes, cover the frame in fleece material and apply resin to it. It sets solid, and you can fibre glass the back of it to give it structure Hated it, all the ribs were on show and would require a ton of work to complete Scrap the idea and switch to plan B, fill all the flats in with thin ply Cover the ends up Re check it fits. Made sure it was easy to get in and out without going through the windscreen!! Now need to locate the steering wheel (new wheel, come to that in a bit) Align the centre console Onto the steering column, worked out where is went through the dash and cut the hole. Refitted the column and refitted the dashboard and all the covers Wheel now sits exactly where I want it with a flat wheel and 60mm spacer. 3 different wheels, original Momo I bought for the car from a DC2 that came with the correct boss to fit the civic, the deep dish wheel that I wanted to move it closer to me and the new wheel and spacer that is even closer that the deep dish Check where the instruments will end up and if the centre vent will fit So now that's all done I got on with the filling and sanding ready yo make a mould from the dash Used expanding foam and tape to make up the gaps Once set this stuff cuts and sands so easily Also plugged up the column hole. Ready now for filler New and "old" dashboards Had to mod the centre console to fit. I want to use the original part as a template, but it gets in the way of the brake bias lever. I cut a section away and sanded all that dam rhino skin effect off! Took ages! Finally, got the wheels to clear the front brakes with spacers. Hate spacers but these hub centric H&R ones are pretty cool. Anodised black they also blend in to the wheel/brake bell Sorry - big post and I know I've missed a few things! Must remember to keep this updated

I asked our workshop nicely, and when that failed I bribed them with Krispy Creme doughnuts! I haven't been on the machine tools properly since 1999 and there were a few things I forgot when I was going through it with them. Cutting my own car was hardest bit, but I've got a friend coming around to weld in plates over the holes at some point next week (more doughnuts required!)

I wouldn't take the risk of machining, grinding, welding someone else's car parts!!! Plus it makes mine pretty unique to have what maybe the only Aerodeck with a F7 lower brace

nonononononononononononononononono! lol

It will allow me to use DC2 ARB's and a lot more adjustment as the ARB itself can be lowered and raised to match the ride height of the chassis to keep the arms straight. With the LCA's on the car already I have multiple pickup points to allow a subtle stiffening/softening of the ARB and I will get some adjustable drop links. Finally, linking the ARB to the rear suspension instead of the Rover L brackets ties everything in properly so for what I am doing I think it will be worth it, but for normal road use I think this is way too much effort. I am also a little bit crazy to do all this in the first place but life would be boring otherwise!!!

Some Finished off the plugs and counterbored the new holes approx 5mm in per side to match the measurements on the chassis So the brace goes on the chassis (just) but hits the rear ABS sensor bolt holes so didn't sit flush with the subframe So angle grinder to the rescue (I hate cutting the chassis!) Brace now sits flush and I could drill the ARB holes in the subframe. AS you can see the upper hole in the frame still sits off the subframe so I'll machine a small spacer to make up the difference. Next job is to make up some infill pieces for the sub frame, weld them in and paint over. The kit came with a piece to mount inside the subframe to give threaded inserts to bolt the ARB to, these too have to modified slightly but that's 5 minutes with a saw and a file. Too much work, wouldn't recommend this to anyone!

Well I will know by the weekend if this will fit. Got some interference fit plug turned out of aluminium and pressed them into the brace (with a little industrial bearing lock for good measure) and put it all on the mill ready to flush cut the plug. Then drill the new holes in the brace and hopefully fit it on the chassis by the weekend, or have an expensive paperweight for my desk!

I found Honda hookup good for quite a lot of stuff but as you say the non-EU models.

If you are working to a relatively tight budget, you have a very limited choice. Don't forget (unless you've already done so) that when lowering the car, you also change all the camber angles so to stop your tyres wearing away on the insides you'll need to compensate with adjustable arms etc. Stock DC2 LCA's on the rear are 50mm wide (if you find ones with the same style as our MB/MC's), where ours are 40mm from memory. If you look a the Miester R setup you'll see that the rears come with shims (well washers) to make up the difference in arm thickness You'll want an even drop front and rear, as Tom says the stock setup gives some chassis rake so if you lower both the front and back by the same amount you'll be okay. If you don't you're also changing the caster angle and weight balance. The stock front/rear ride height difference isn't much but try to keep it - it's there for a reason! Finally, search through the forum/facebook page as see what peoples experience is with eBay setups. Personally, I agree with Krzys, go cheap pay twice. Coilovers would give you the flexibility to get the chassis levels spot on but if you go budget don't expect the ride or handling to be great - you get what you pay for!

Downloaded the EG and DC2 workshop manuals from some other sites. As our cars are supposed to share so much with these chassis it seemed a good idea to add them to the library of tech info I've been gathering!

Well after a bit of research, I've found the following: From the Aerodeck workshop manual - From the DC2 Integra manual - So it appears that our cars LCA pickup points are 8mm narrower than the DC/EG At least I know how much I need to take off the brace on the milling machine!

Well I'm glad that this forum was able to help solve to problem as I thought I was fitting the brace incorrectly the first time. Instructions (yes I ended up reading them!) actually tell you the bolts will point inwards during fitting) but not the extent that these did.

Thanks for the replies guys, bit annoyed that Honda would have to mod the chassis but leave the rest of the EG parts alone. Time to get on the milling machine then! Also found that the rear calipers from our cars are Lucas not Nissin and as such are even so slightly different and won't mount to the brake upgrade I've got, so new calipers it needed to!

Okay guys, tried a brief search but not quite getting the answers that I'm after. If there is already an answer on here please point me to it. I've bought a Function7 EG/DC subframe brace for my MC2, but it looks to be 10-12mm too long between the LCA mounting points. I could machine the brace to fit but don't want to if I can help it. I thought the MC/MB shared many components with the EG/DC so unless the brace has been CNC machined incorrectly then something else is wrong (such as my recollection!) What subframe braces do people have experience of fitting the MB/MC suspension? I'm not talking about Beaks bar or similar, but full sub frame braces like the Function7 or Blackworks Racing etc. Thanks, Dave

My arm is all the hassle I want out of this car right now!

You're making it sound like a damn Vauxhall Ampera! LOL

Just a quick pic of another car with the Toyota PS pump I was looking at on the weekend. Awesome work but was talking to Maz as Hond-R as they were doing all the work on the CRX. Not sure I like the idea of it being behind the headlight but this build was more looks that function. Cool work though

Yeah I guess that's a way to look at it. Like I say my main reason is control. I remember back in the 80's where Toyota got into trouble for stating there 4AGE engines made about 140bhp at the flywheel but no one could get within 15bhp until Toyota owned up and showed the rig they used where the alternator, water pump and other auxiliaries weren't on the engine and the water was being pumped externally! Freeing up 5bhp at the flywheel is still 5bhp I wouldn't have had otherwise:) I also get to turn off the power steering if I feel like a work out lol

I bought mine a while back for £100 including pig tails, New hoses will cost another £40 plus I have to wire it in etc. I did do this in some part for the small power gain but mainly to have speed sensitive power steering

Stock pump is ugly, close to the larger rad and takes 5bhp to run plus it's on all the time! Electro-Hydraulic unit takes 0.5bhp and is speed sensitive. Autocross boys in the US use them on their Civics so found a fair bit of info on them.

Okay, between eating too much food and arguing with the family I managed a few jobs on the car. Still waiting for a few bits to turn up but most stuff arrived in good time. Next big job is to get the chassis painted, so lots of small jobs to be done before this can happen. I bought a chassis rotisserie while back so I can work on the underside so I want to take the body panels off and get them out of the way. First job was to fit all the perspex windows and leave them to "settle" in the runners. I also need to measure up for some small brackets to fix the bottom of the panels in place for extra security Then off with all the doors. Looks naked without them! Next task was to get the mould ready for the sunroof bung. I thought the easiest way would be to use the old roof panel and make a fibre glass mould from that, so as I have 2 roof panels kicking about... Cut off the rubber seal, the new panel will be bonded into place.. Mount the panel to a backing board. I also had to fill in as much of the gaps around the edge as possible to minimise the work with filler etc, as possible later on... Left this to dry for a few days before going at this with filler and primer. Solid start Back to the chassis, and chase down how far the tin worm in the rear arch has got. Using a brass wire wheel on the angle grinder makes short work of any filler and paint. Looks like it will need a little more work than planned but nothing the body shop can't handle,,, Looks like they will have to cut and rebuild the lower corner of the wing to mount the bumper onto. This whole section is loose and I could break this off with my hands. I want to keep this in place until the body shop can see the "damage" The back of the car still has a few small areas of sound deadening to clean off. Jobs done, but no photos as I managed to drop the grinder onto my arm while working on roof. Even with a long sleeve top it managed to take a chunk out of my arm Back of the car has been finished and all etch primed. Didn't take long The arm has however turned to a great mass of puss and crud which needs regular cleaning, lovely! Another job while the arm heals was to fit the MR2 power steering pump. I've seen this done on several other forums, but hate where they mount it using the original brackets. To get it to fit where the battery used to go would mean removing the pump body casting. Time to plug up the holes and start cutting... Off with the legs... All edges filed and smoothed off ready to make the new mounting brackets. With the mounts removed I'll have to use the 3 bolts that hold on the motor cover as the new mounts to a new bracket but it will now fit where I want it to go... I will pick up off the original battery tray mounts along the edge of the chassis rail. Oh, and the new engine mounts look the nuts Last piece I picked up today was the lower control arm brace from Function7. Beautiful piece of machining, but not designed for the MC/MB chassis it will need work to make it go on. I've been told that a small amount of material needs to be removed from the back of the brace, so I'll check in the week and put the brace on the mill at work to get a clean cut. Time to sit back and enjoy my last few hours off before returning to work on Monday