DeLaSoul

Cheers, looks better mounted with the buttons!

Too cold to work in the garage (and that's before I clear the snow from the door) so updated and started to program the DASH2 unit. Had the scary job of reflashing the firmware first and all the warning that come with it!! Had to wire up all the power and earth feeds to a 12V supply, and connect up some of the buttons to cycle through the options but called up the firmware in the display and the stock display....Fog light is on to show the display is connected to the laptop (even though the data indicator is on in the display ) Firmware update confirmed! lot of flashing lights! So now able to use the new programming interface which looks a lot easier than the older one! Back light on so it's easier to read now configured. Note the RPM max , but had to lose some low end resolution to get it to 10k RPM scale. Playing with the first 2 screens, but having trouble getting the data from the ECU. If I can I'll setup one screen as a "ROAD" screen and put the rev limit a lot lower. I will place a call to Race Technologies later as I think it's something simple as setting up the CANBUS connection but at the moment it's only able to pull basic data from the ECU, no speed or oil temp/pressure even though the manual says it can and the ECU has those sensors attached and setup

Weekend of wiring, and by the end of it I was finally happy. The wiring to the ECU looked terrible, I really hated the run up the bulkhead and across to the ECU and couldn't leave it even if it was correct. Stripped off the heatshrink and de-pinned the plugs and worked backwards until I had a bundle of wires only and rebuilt it. Mounted the ECU tray to get a feel for the wire run and make sure everything lined up. Still got 2 pieces of heatshrink to place and shrink into place (they are still on the back of the plug) where the wires are held by the tie-wraps to stop it rubbing through All the wires are now very clearly marked!

Aerodeck is all done from the outside, but I guess the Nissan would be different

they look like powder coated aluminium, and easy remove so aren't difficult to clean up and renew.....unless you snap a stud off! Engine builder sent me these images of the engine build so far Can't wait to drop this into the bay!

Carbon fibre panel, just needs to be bonded in I've been meaning to try them too, had them sitting there for a while and finally gave in. The larger ones aren't so good though, well the ones I got anyway.

Some small jobs on the weekend, trying to complete the ECU wiring and tackled the snapped roof bar stud Went back and started from the middle, and twisted the bundle of wires in layers. The ends nearest the plug all had a small curl put in the wires for strain relief once the heatshrink went on Had to extend a few wires for the Lambda so a good excuse to try these new heat shrink solder joints I found online, worked pretty well and look good Pinned the AEM puck wires in a separate shielded cable as per the other side of the loom Want to run the loom up the bulkhead, across and out to the roll cage where the ECU will sit so did a test run first to make sure it fitted. I've since heated and shaped the loom to fit nice and tight to the top of the fire wall to clear the extinguisher pipe Okay, the dreaded snapped roof stud. Had to protect the paint first with several layers of tape just in case before I drilled the stud out and through into the cabin Careful pilot hole..... and it comes through clear of the cage and in a easy place to work from the inside, phew! Time to drill it to size and paint the area to protect it EZ-out on the stud in the t-nut Back on with the end of the roof rail Just the nut to paint and seal later on Will continue the wiring in the week.

I work in America, China, Australia and New Zealand, but I'm not going to Scotland!

One day I think I'm going to end up there helping you do it so it's all done!

Just had another look, there's plenty of room under each wing on either method

It clears, no issues on either side.

More small jobs over the weekend - Function 7 LCA Brace - ARB There are a pair of additional support brackets that need to be fitted, unfortunately once again these were not designed for the Aerodeck!, time to modify.... These go inside the subframe for the brace and ARB brackets to attach to. The ARB brackets also had to be modified as the holes don't quite line up so just had to drill them out slightly Forgot to take pictures underneath so I'll do that this weekend. Car is on all 4 wheels and mobile again though! Sunday was wiring, so fitted all the chassis loom to the front of the car down the inside of each wing. Had to support the trunking in the wing so went for some riveted wire guides Protected the cable as it came through the chassis so it doesn't rub Other side, slightly different run as I had a little less cable to work with So just the headlight and fan plugs to wire up and the engine bay is done. Started the loom from the milspec to the ECU but ran out of wire Also fitted the next part of the oil system ahead of the engine install Fitted the oil temp and pressure sensors to the remote oil filter mounting

I've got a Competition Clutch flywheel and stage 4 clutch, all matched and balanced

I can sort of see that, I've got a lightened flywheel too but I thought that may make it worse as you'd have to have a higher tick over to keep it running (less rotating mass?)

We'll have to see how mine runs, I'm not expecting it to be a nice quiet car on tick over

No the S2 aren't as aggressive. We drew up a chart a while back and listed out all the cams at the time. A friend of mine did the maths based on intake runner length, valve size, bore*stroke blah blah blah (went way over my head) and what we wanted was the Buddy Club Stage 3 from the table but couldn't get them We looked at making a set which wasn't that expensive but completely untested so I wasn't prepared to go that route. We then went for the S2 Ultra series stage 3 but they had issues with wearing so had to go for the way more expensive Toda Spec C. I'm not even sure at this stage what this engine will idle like but it looks like it'll be lumpy as Ben was focusing on the top end when he did the math and knew the car wasn't meant for the road.

If it's a common mod and you're running stock valves then to be honest you shouldn't have to. I'm running lumpy high lift cams and high comp pistons so there's a lot that could go wrong without careful setup. Andy dialled in the cams as per the Toda instruction sheet and took half a millimeter out of the piston pocket for safety

If it's not raising the compression ratio too high then I would imagine you'll be okay mate. Mine had clearance, just less then 60 thou so if I did miss a gear then I could be in a world of pain! Sunday - get the hubs done! Press the spindle into the hub bearing, remember to support the inner race of the bearing from behind! Then I pressed in the extended ball joints - removed the decal around the edge of the ball joint as it was just getting caught on the edge of the hole in the hub And reinstall on the car Brake disc and caliper carrier in place with all the shims in the right order to get the caliper and pads in the correct position relative the disc. I held the disc in place with a bolt temporarily and the wheel went on with no clearance issues. One corner left to do and it's back on its own wheels

Got further with the front hubs. I took them into work to press the bearings in but the press is pretty basic and wasn't up to the task. Plan B needed! I managed with to press them in with my dads old hydraulic press and the old bearing shell in a few minutes I didn't think to bring a set of circlip pliers so cant lock in the bearing and press in the spindle but should have access to more tools tomorrow. Hard bit is done now though Dropped in to see how the engine build is getting on the way down to see family for the weekend. So glad I did as I was able to do some work in putting it together and help check a few bits. So, first build Andy did turned up that the valves got dangerously close to the pistons. He had to machine larger pockets in the top to give the clearance needed and we had to double check everything. We did one cylinder Also took the time to setup the vernier pulleys according to the Toda spec sheets. These cams are awesome build quality and the vernier pulleys are a work of art! No clearance issues anymore! Build can now continue!

Most machine shops can sort out. 5 minute job and some beers

Man up and get it done. When I did all the work myself the first tie it was done in 2 days, waiting for the powder coated parts this time has taken the time!

Last suspension parts in paint, car has to be off the dolly by this weekend as I promised a friend he could use it to move his chassis. A little bit of a rush but can be done

Other side on (excuse the mess on the floor, haven't swept up the leaves that somehow get under the door), trying to keep it going this time......

Thanks guys, I'm just trying to keep a small level of momentum going as it's so close to being back on it's wheels! Inner front camber links were all set to be re-bushed, so drill out the rubber and knock out the shells Top one is all cleaned up and poly bushed, lower one got the same treatment. All nice and shiney now Rear end got assembled and offered up to the chassis on the near side Looks like the rear tyres will be a close fit! Wheels have been sat there so long they are covered in a thick layer of dust! Back brakes look tiny now on the bigger disks Front shock and lower arm now installed on both sides ready for the hub carrier. Going to try and install the bearings and hub this week ready to refit

Bit of a struggle single handed but got the trailing arm bushing in so one side is now ready to re-install