Spanky

hi. will springs/suspension from a 4/5 door work on an aerodeck?

Hi. I've swapped the standard honda suspension on my aerodeck for the mgzs set up. Now it's not great suspension a bit mushy. I'm looking at fitting lowering springs so at least it'll look good. Might stiffen it up as well. My question is which lowering springs. I can't seam to find much for the mgzs. What is there out there tried and tested. Putting honda specific lowering springs onto mg shocks doesn't make sense to me as it's a set of springs designed for a different set of dampers than the mg ones. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not going to spend a fortune on meisters etc. I'm not building a track car just something decent for daily use while I build a proper rwd track car. Cheers. Nathan

Cool I thought as much. I can at least take it to the local garage. They only charge £25 to adjust toe.

Am I right in thinking that I will need lowering springs for an mgzs rather than a civic aerodeck?

Hi. I have a pretty standard mc1 aerodeck, I have just fitted shocks and springs from an mgzs 120. Is there adjustability in the standard suspension to get the geometry changed. Eg camber castor toe in/out? It feels like it could do with some alignment. I'm also finding the ride from the mg suspension quite harsh yet bouncy. I'm thinking if it's going to be an uncomfortable ride then I may as well put lowering springs on and make it look good. Any recommendations? Handling is vastly improved using the mg suspension as well as the 180 rear arb. Thanks

I meant that the nut is part of the trailing arm so like you say the bolt can't be butchered. It has to be removed. I've got a guy breaking an mgzs seeing if he has and bolts that are any good. Just need to get the old ones out.

I didn't realise it has a captive nut. So has to come out. Honda are saying the part is now obsolete and there is only one available from Belgium

Hi. Does anyone know the size of the bolt that holds the rear shocks to the trailing arm. Mine is stuck in on both sides so will have to angle grind the head off and drift it out. I want to get the replacement bolts before I start so I can do it all at once. Cheers

Cool. I've got some new pad retaining clips on the way so I'll strip it all down and give the carriers a good scrub. The calipers are fine it's just that the pads are so tight in the pads carriers. Don't seem to move freely.

Hi. Just replacing my front discs and pads. Old discs were gone beyond belief. They were binding a little. Anyway. Cleaned everything up and fitted the new bits. I had to really force the pads into the carriers on both sides. They close up when the pedal is depressed but the are not moving freely back. The pads and discs are a mintex box set. I doubt it's the mintex stuff because the other discs look like the have had the pressure on all the time. I had to hammer the old pads out as well. Might have to try and source another set of carriers and sliders. What will fit? Cheers. Nathan The brake set didn't have the little metal shims the pads slide along. I reused the ones that were on.