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battery relocation mc1


kyekye09
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Those race batteries will be rubbish for a daily driver. All they are designed to do is start the car and run minimal electrics.

My sugestion is you run 0awg from the current battery area to the boot where the new one will be. Attach the 0awg to a distrubution block so you can gather all the cables in the engine bay up.

With it being so long i'd fuse the 0awg cable at both ends. This protects the cable in the event of a short.

There is a gromit behind the battery (down to the left) which fits 0awg nicely.

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hi ryan what is a distrubution block...??? :oops: fuse both ends(inline fuse i take it like an amp power cable what amp fuses would you think)

You could go for a Spoon one; a bargain at only £389.99 (that's even including VAT- wow!). You may also want the battery tie kit for £113, overall saving 35% on the stock items.

http://www.spoonsports.co.uk/product.php?id=2827

eh a little to overpriced for my budget..... i want to try and knock this together for max £200 including the battery box blush.gif1

Those race batteries will be rubbish for a daily driver. All they are designed to do is start the car and run minimal electrics.

mine was fine, ran everything okay and didn't have a problem with it for ages :)

can i get a race battery that matches our standard ampage and cold crank...????

Or you could just take a dump before you get in the car to get the same effect.

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hi ryan what is a distrubution block...??? :oops: fuse both ends(inline fuse i take it like an amp power cable what amp fuses would you think)

A distrubution block is a way of seperating cables. So you'd have one 0awg cable leaving the block through the car and the cables already in the car go into the block at the other end.

You can use an unfused one which makes it cheaper to buy.

Fuse size......You'd need to work out what power will be drawn from the battery then use a fuse a bit above that. From what I can remember the biggest fuse in the fuse box is 60a so maybe 100a or 150a.

As I said, you will need to fuse the cable twice. One in the engine bay right by the distribution block (or if you get a 0awg fused distribution block you can kill 2 birds with one stone) and at the other end of the cable just before the battery using the same fuse size.

Your earth needs to be the same size as the power cable, so 0awg and you must make sure you have a very good earth point otherwise it will cause issues.

You could use this distribution block:

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/con-bfd ... ution.html

I think there are 4 cables attached to the oem battery so you can twist them together and fit in the 1 space. Make sure its VERY secure and has no chance of escaping.

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i used to have one of those optima red top batteries weighed twice as much as a normal battery, supposed to be heavy duty for a big ice install, it jus knackered my alternator and got chucked in the end.

i dont think there is any empty space infront of the spare wheel bit on the deck last i chekcd

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i used to have one of those optima red top batteries weighed twice as much as a normal battery, supposed to be heavy duty for a big ice install, it jus knackered my alternator and got chucked in the end.

i dont think there is any empty space infront of the spare wheel bit on the deck last i chekcd

there is abit behind the seats that could be used for tools or jump leads or anything really i had my trolly jack in there if you lift the wooden floor out you will see the bit im talking about its mabe about 7 or 8 inch in depth about 7 inch deep and sits between both rear turrets il also be using a crx space saver spare wheel....

so i should have loads of room to fab a new battery tray/stay

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