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Turns out the handbrake problem was actually user error I found a post here that showed me I hadn't followed the correct procedure! Once I did that it was all fine and I didnt need to swap the cables in the end (so I can't comment on the MG Rover ones i'm afraid) What I can tell you is these parts are the correct length and and do work, but the quality control was a bit suspect (I had to file open the hole in the handbrake cable bracket slightly and file off a bit of badly machined cable that was hang out the end of the pin) 92.10.5233 COFLE 10.5233 Handbrake cable 1655, 1469mm, Disc Brake | AUTODOC price and review 92.10.5234 COFLE 10.5234 Handbrake cable 1636/1449, 1636, 1449mm, Disc Brake | AUTODOC price and review

Future-proofed! You haven't adjusted your hand brake properly. Wind the centre console screw OUT fully, so that the hand brake doesn't work at all (releasing the tension built up on the springs on the rear calipers - the cables should be slack at the caliper ends, and the spring mechanisms should have returned all the way to their end stops). Then turn ON the engine to start the power assisted braking. Then pump the foot brake about 20 times to push out the caliper pistons on to the discs fully (this winds them out to their maximum possible extent with the pads you have in there). Then, stop your engine again, and pull the hand brake up ONE click, and ONE click ONLY. THEN wind the centre console screw IN, until both rear discs only just start dragging on the brake pads a bit, but consistently. Then that's it. If your calipers are working fine, and the auto-tensioner spring mechanisms are not corroded or jammed (make sure the springs on the rear calipers are nicely lubed up and free moving), then you should be able to pull up on your hand brake and be fully locked on a hill at somewhere between 6 and 10 clicks (to pass an MOT). Obviously, to do all this readjustment, you should have the back of the car up off the ground on axle stands. Good luck.