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Hi Ben, The calipers in the photo are for the 260mm front brakes, not the larger 280mm front brakes. Manufacturer caliper numbers for the larger calipers are LCA333 & RCA333. You can use eBay to get the oem numbers from them. Basically the calipers are the same for the mg zs180, mg zr160 & accord of that era, but the carriers differ i believe (ive not checked any fit on an mb other than a zs). I can confirm that the calipers and carriers from the zs180 will fit onto a mb2 4x100 as thats what I'm currently running! If youre upgrading the brakes you'll need to change the master cylinder and prop valve if you don't have abs for it to work properly. My setup is: Honda Civic MB6 brake master cylinder Honda Civic MB6 brake servo Honda 40/40 brake prop valve (46210-S5A-912) Wezmoto Braided front and rear brake lines (700mm front / 560mm rear) MG ZS 180 Front & Rear brake calipers MG ZS 180 Front & Rear brake discs Cheers, Dan

A rather inebriated looking K24A showed up this morning But it has the RBB markings on the head which is what matters - meaning it is the "full fat" version with 3-lobe VTEC and ~200hp. There is a similar looking version with 160hp and only 2 cam lobes so you have to be careful! Hopefully get that mounted up onto an engine stand at some point and take a closer look inside but so far so good. For peace of mind i'm going to give it a compression test and have a peek into the cylinders with a scope before going any further.

Hi mate. There is some mystery over the actual numbers of each VTiS model made. The logbook should have made it easy to identify a genuine one, but unfortunately even that is a minefield as Honda dealerships made mistakes with them when registering the car with the UK DVLA. Some have VTiS on the logbook, some just state model as VTi. The only parts that were unique to the VTiS were drivers side floor mat which had the VTiS logo on it (the other 3 mats were just standard) the gear knob (alloy and engraved in the early VTiS, silver plastic/black leather with "VTiS" in black on it for the post 1997 ones) and the alloys (again, these differed so early ones got 15" Speedline Chronos wheels, later ones got the same as the ones in your photos which are 15" Speedline "fans"). The body kit was available in the accessory catalogue, but was standard on the VTiS. The "mid spoiler" on the aerodeck was also an accessory option. The other thing that marked out the VTiS was the pirates black paint. All VTiS came in pirates black only, so any you see that don't have pirates black are 100% not a genuine VTiS. The Aerodeck ones are a lot rarer as most were the mb6 5 door hatch. Hope this helps a little.

Hello to all of you, First time posting on the forum, kinda wanted to share a bit about my mb2 since i first came to find some knowledge about these mb chassis. It's my first car, family owned since new and it's getting to the 100k km mark, and in my two years of driving and enjoying the car i can say it's a great car and frankly very underrated and deserves a lot more recognition The car has nothing major done to it, it's mostly stock aside from some small cosmetics. The mods are: Front mudflaps out of a junkyard pirate black mb2 1DIN android auto radio Reuphostered steering wheel Rear spoiler out of a Rover I have many plans for it later but most of em are cosmetics and i won't bother to modify a D14, maybe just a intake at best since the oem one is plastic. It's getting lowered and i want it to ride on some ek4 vti rims, or civic jordan rims and vti lip is also in the list Cheer, Costa.

Its been a long time since the last update. So yeah of course it is fully wrapped now by myself and lowered even more. Looks pretty good but for sure sometime in the future I might paint it (I'm currently doing car painting education) plans for the future: Turbo... I found a cheap kit on marketplace and then I'm gonna try and make a reliable stock internal setup, so not that high boost

Looking good if I do say so myself! Headlights definitely letting the side down, need a good polish and coating.

Smaller power steering pulley (hopefully it will clear the bonnet without hacking any big holes in it) and 10% underdrive alternator pulley fitted As we've deleted the AC the factory belt was much too long (think it was something like 7pk1735 from memory). Managed to find a belt that will fit (7PK1400) - it seems ok but apparently there is a mark on the tensioner that you can check - i'll do this next time im with the car to confirm but seems like the right size. Engine mounts ordered - I went for Innovative Mounts for a Civic EG as the price for Hasport mounts in the UK is insane (£700+!) and I wanted to avoid ebay china copied junk on this project...

Thanks for the update on the fogs - I managed to get a set of good condition blanking plates so i've removed the fairly rotten big fogs for now but I may reinstate them later. Left the connectors tied up behind. A bit more progress on the K-swap side of things: Drilled a couple of holes in the firewall just under the heater outlet to allow for the shifter cables to pass through (no photo, oops) Got hold of a billet shifter plate designed for an EG but it was sitting too proud of the tunnel so drilled out the fasteners for the shifter base plate and removed it DC5 shifter mocked up - was worried that it would be too close to the dashboard but it seems to just about be ok - the shifter box came with a short shifter already fitted which should help things Clutch and flywheel test fit - just waiting for various missing bolts to arrive from Japan before buttoning it all up. Toyed with the idea of getting an uprated clutch but we've gone with Exedy OEM EP3 clutch for now as it's many times cheaper than an uprated one (£126 vs ~£400) and I reckon it'll be OK for NA power levels. Any future plans to boost the car would require an LSD as well as a clutch upgrade anyway! Flywheel is a Competition Clutch 3.9kg

Hey everybody, glad I could be a part of the forums now, I'd like to show you a couple pictures of my new to me MB8, it has some really nice OEM goodies too, like the wind deflectors and metal plates door sills. This is hopefully going to be a build thread for this car as I buy more stuff for it and upgrade it in the future. Hopefully you guys like it!

Yes, there are some marks - I guess it was to align the drill or whatever they were using in the factory if the car was to be an MB6. I'd love to know what they did - I imagine just drill and tap a hole, thread in a stud ... or maybe there was more to it than that? Maybe some extra reinforcement underneath? I found a video of someone working on an EG just now doing basically the same thing as I wrote earlier but using a piece of metal behind as reinforcement - it seemed to work OK for them

The easiest way is to get a bar that mounts into the top mount studs of the suspension, like this However, I have been given an MB6 strut bar for free so I wanted to attempt this install. According to the internet I should do as follows: Offer up the bar Mark and drill 8.5mm holes into the strut towers Use M8 bolts (grade 10.9) with penny washers through from the underside and tighten it down I have all the parts ready to go and will report back soon ...

Yes, it's a shame. It's the same for basically every kind of specialist forum these days unfortunately. The barrier for entry is lower for posting on facebook, even though it's an abysmal format for specialist discussion. It's ok for asking questions, but thats about it. Any kind of long term logging of knowledge like this forum is full of is not compatible with their engagement/advertising driven format. Probably less said about that the better.

20 years that's some going & must also be some dedication Simon, I've seled the other top areas around the rear of the weather strips right at the back quarter below the roof rails, it p**sed it down today & the area that was getting all the water on the drivers side is dry as a bone, I did however still find maybe 10 to 20ml of water in the wheel well that had drained down from the side to side seal there, the one under the boot catch & inside the well, I'm hoping that it's just residual water from the previous day slowly making it's way out, but I plan to get the hose on it again to check it, but may not have to after looking at the weather report, seems p**sing it down again for a few hours tomorrow, so one way or another I'll find out if there's still a small leak, if there is I am now clutching at straws on where the heck it could be getting in, but I really want to eliminate every single leak no matter how small, fingers crossed but it's not the easiest of areas to check with no exterior seal there or any obvious areas above now where it could be getting in. if it is still leanking a tiny bit I have a hunch it's inside the tail light where the panels join, but I have looked at them very closely & although they look a bit ropey on the photo, I can't see as much as a 1mm gap anywhere, but will be getting a little tiger seals on them just in case.

Got the grille fitted to the car, that was the easy bit as the rest of the day turned into a bit of a nightmare! Could probably do with painting the metal behind black (its not quite as obvious in real life) but other than that im happy with it for a DIY job We then tried to swap in the MG ZS 180 steering rack that I bought... what a pig of a job Once we've eventually wrestled it into place after removing engine mount and subframe bolts, we found it didnt fit because these pipes are shaped differently, meaning it fouls on the engine mount bracket (the factory MB one so I can't even blame this on it being a k swap!) MB pipe: So I had to remove the rack from the car again and then remove the pipes from the MB rack and swap them to the ZS one. I've never seen that mentioned before but it's worth knowing if you are attempting this... Didn't get as much done as i'd like but onwards and upwards

Nice car, factory wind deflectors are always a good choice I spent far too much money getting some JDM ones for my accord !

I clear them regularly because I have tin foil hat. So shouldn't be an issue. Merry Xmas anyway.

Know what you mean about the weather. In theory winter's the perfect time to get sone jobs done cos the deck is off the road, but got zero motivation to do anything in the cold / wet / dark. @Dave any idea why Jake can't post pics?

Yeah, was gutted! Still no idea what it was, but got the parts now to fix her so will probably look at getting them fitted over the Christmas break.

Cheers mate. Not exactly mint. But it's tidy enough. Bit over mint. Although I do try do decent work on em

Welcome back mate, good to see you back in a civic - looks up to your usual minter standard 😎

Sooo, had a bit of an accident with Lexy ☹️ On way to work at silly o clock in the morning so still dark. Pulled out to pass a van, got almost online with his front wheel and heard an almighty bang! Then followed horrible grinding sound! Thought the engine or gearbox had went, the bang was so loud. Pulled in and went to front of the car and front bumper on passenger side is smashed with a big bit missing, and the plastic wheel arch trim (the colour coded bit that's part of the body kit, not the inner arch) is off and dragging along the ground, held on by one clip at the bottom! 😲 No idea what I hit, but it was solid! Thinking that the van either threw up a rock or maybe a large tree branch. Managed to clip the arch back on best I could and drove home. Had a loud rattle from underneath so was worried what else had been damaged.Checked and whatever I hit also dislodged the exhaust heatshield and also snapped the exhaust hanger clean off the exhaust! Gutted! I managed to source a replacement bumper in the same red down in Durham for £100, and the wheel arch, again in red, via Ebay. Wheelarch was the hardest bit to source and cost almost as much as the bumper! She still drives fine, just looks a bit of a mess, but will get her sorted soon. Will post up a couple of pics when I get a chance. Alwayshappens near Christmas!

Cheers mate, yeah so far its a blast, so flat and planted. I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive yet though. Need to get the Alignment sorted, so pondering getting some adjustable camber/toe arms for the rear first. Thank you mate, they're 15" 7J ET35, 195 50 15. I had issues at the front with this height when I had 15 6J ET45 as it rubbed the inner arches. So far no rubbing but I haven't been pushing it. It used to rub slow speed stuff when turning and bumps. I should have room to lower the rear also. Yeah I kinda loathe spending the money on the press buts its been invaluable. I remember doing one of the front arm bushes and thinking there's no way in hell I would've been able to do it any other way haha. Should pay for itself the first wheel bearing job. Yes mate, I did a quick write up of what I did here Ill grab some more photos soon to explain it better. Im intrigued about the bonfire hahaha

It depends on the head unit. I know that some old Pioneer Head units are easy to hack. They have a 3.5mm jack input for audio controls and you only need a combination of resistance value for each button (vol up, down etc). Some others as JVC are more complicated as they need pulse modulation so you need to find or hack the code from remote control with reverse engineering. I dont know about new head units we have to do some search.. First of all you need to mount some switches on your wheel.and get or retrofit (if it's possible) the cable reel so that you can get 2 extra wires from it. That's what I am also searching for :)

All looking good mate, those wheels should look great! The arb should defo help stiffen things up aswell. Doing stuff without a press is a right pita. I treated myself to one last christmas and it defo paid for itself when I did my polybushes haha

Bought a set of (very) budget semi-slick tyres "Accelera 651 Sport Xtra" from a company called Tire Streets that i'd seen advertised on various youtube channels. I don't have particularly high expectations as they were extremely cheap (£280 for a set of 4) but according to various internet comments/reviews they seem to be reasonable. I can always upgrade them in the future if needs be. The rubber seems soft which is a good start for a track tyre. Normally I don't like to order tyres separately to fitting (as usually the fitting cost removes any savings) but I couldnt find anything suitable supplied and fitted so I paid the local tyre place £15 a tyre for fitting and balancing which seemed reasonable. Look forward to getting them on the car soon... Finally got around to finishing restoring an MG ZS 180 rear anti roll bar I picked up from a friend a few months back. It was in pretty sorry condition but it seems like they are not sold new any more. Fortunately, you can still buy drop links, poly bushes, and all the bolts so it was just a case of stripping it down, removing the rust, painting it and replacing as much of the hardware as possible. The bushes were a real pain to install without a press but after a lot of farting around in the vice I got there eventually... For reference here's how it looked before (!)

Another thing to check is what type the buttons are. Some use voltage signals to operate lathing think that is probably for newer cars. Thinking you'll probably need the complete harness from the clock spring/spool to whereever it goes behind the dash. If you're just planning on fitting the ones for volume, then just terminating the other ones should in theory be fine as they won't be used. You'll also need the harness from the wheel to the radio as it will have some form of connector on it for the radio. Without seeing it, im guessing it will have a female 2.5mm or 3.5mm jack plug socket. Or possibly a male jack plug of the size mentioned above. Have a look in the integra forums (not the FB groups as the info in them is limited and sometimes incorrect!) for folk who are doing radio upgrades/double din conversions on their integra's. I think you'll be looking at getting these from America though as never seen any UK spec ones with those buttons fitted.

One lady owner from new , has every single mileage stamp from the same Honda dealerships from new 86k on clock, its pretty clean i did replace Headliner as it was sagging, just a little runs on rear arch's that i would love to sort out but not a clue who to go too this is my first car coming from motorcycles , yours looks so mint dude!

Hi mate, that was my wife 😊 She messaged me to say that she'd seen an aerodeck there, glad that you joined 👍 Looks like a proper tidy example, been ages since I've seen another deck round here. Welcome to the club matey.

Yeah fingers crossed I'll get to have a quick spin in it, the plan is once the wheels and tyres are on, better front brakes fitted, and a few other small bits are sorted I can take it for an exhaust at least as somewhat of a test drive. Hoping to avoid the cost of getting it delivered there as we don't have a suitable tow car unfortunately. The car came with 12 months MOT when I bought it so we have a bit of time.. technically I am sure it's not valid any more as no exhaust is a fail but just to avoid getting in trouble (hopefully)... that is the next priority item as starting the car up is really antisocial at the moment for the neighbours! The car does run and drive but I've literally only been up and down the driveway in it so far 😂 but nothing flew off/leaked out of it yet so that's good progress... It still needs a proper map on the ECU and there's still a whole bunch of other work to do on the suspension and then safety gear inside (half cage, seats, harnesses, etc) but we can sort that over the winter and be fully ready for a show/track day in spring. To be honest that is all fairly straightforward fitment wise and more about saving up the money to buy everything than actually fitting it that will take time!

That E10 is absolute dog turd.. Only e5 goes in ours, especially after it ruined the injectors in Karen's accord. It's like a double bonus of super unleaded in top of not being E10 👌

Moving to Kelso in the borders mate, it's about 20 odd mile from here, nit too far but further into the borders. Closer to your direction lol. The village has been fine but the land with this house is too much to maintain, so bought a lovely detached bungalow with garage and a lot smaller garden. Will give us a lot more free time, and Kelso is our favourite borders town. Plenty to do there, plus it gets its fair share of classic car shows too along at the events ground. Win win!

Thanks, it's an alpine unit so even though it's new I think it fits with the 90s-ish vibe of the car. It's no doubt the brand I would've gone for if I had the money back in the day haha. It has RGB lighting so I can change it to march the dash which is nice (I'm being picky but I don't like it when the colours don't match!) The car came with a pretty retro looking JVC CD player but only 1 channel was working for some reason and it had a really shoddy aftermarket Bluetooth kit (calls only) with wires bodged in all over the place so I thought it was best to bin it all and fit something new I did consider not bothering with a head unit but even though the build leans towards track car, I've been in cars which are totally stripped before and whilst you might be able to get an extra 20kg out by removing the heater, stereo, half the dash, etc, it makes the car unusable for anything other than trailering really Yes he basically said he managed to get it all down the side by sticking a pair of long noise pliers through the popped out hazard switch and holding the cables out of the way of the head unit I've stripped everything from the front seats back and deleted the air con (it was broken anyway) so I'm not even sure I'll be able to hear the radio over the rattling but that's about the extent of the weight reduction for now. It should be a lightweight chassis anyway as it doesn't have a sunroof or other luxury features 😂

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

Thank you very much for confirming this and your post - makes my car build a lot easier as I was expecting to have to modify the stock seat structure (which in itself is a problem because my passenger seat was accidentally disposed of - best not to ask)

Got this photo from my father in law this morning that he got the head unit in in about 5 mins on the first try, always the way 🙃

More progress MB6 dash installed and MB6 cluster fitted Modified the centre console slightly (basically just removing the tray in front of the gear stick) to accommodate the shifter box Cut a hole in the back of the glovebox and mounted the ECU inside Installed a steering wheel boss and OMP 300mm wheel Unfortunately I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the head unit to fit in the dash as I was struggling with all the spiders web of cables behind so I couldn't get it rolling today 🥲 but it's a marathon not a sprint!

No pics unfortunately as had my head down but some good progress on the car: Engine back in the car and running without any timing codes, great success! Managed to fix an issue with the shifter, I wasn't able to select 1st or 2nd gear. I tried getting another set of shifter cables as the ones I had with the shifter were a bit too short and didn't look like the pictures of "correct" sets i'd seen. Turns out I had set the gearbox cable bracket up wrong - for future reference the brackets should be in the "forward" position as per this image (thanks to the helpful soul on facebook who pointed this out when I posted a last ditch question in a kswap group!): Started to fit an MB6 VTI dashboard that I was kindly gifted by a chap called Sam who I bought a few other bits off. My original one had the fake wood trim which wasn't my favourite and some absolute vandal had attached a phone holder directly to it with wood screws! Removed the passenger airbag, removed the cover from it and refitted the cover back into the dash to cover the ugly hole that was left Another solid day on it and I reckon first drive soon (a very short one out of VTEC as driving on the wrong engine map, with open headers on 15 year old budget tyres isn't the greatest idea!!)

thanks Simon 👍 yes looking at the rubber parts, found the parts for the top e.g. Items 9 & 6 , struggling with the bump stop ATM, Item 11, PN 51722-st3-e01.

Quick photo from last night. Looking forward to the suspension refresh and getting this thing slammed. Other news - carpet and some dash trim is out ready for welding.

Some of the rear seat configurations The middle row also flip round to face backwards.. Pretty clever setup 😎

Shifter mounted properly in car and cables routed. Some hacking up of the console will obviously be required but I should be able to have all the dashboard etc back in Shifter cable plate in place - still needs a bit of work to get the other two bolts mounted and enlarge the hole in the grommet slightly. It's sitting at a less than ideal angle but it was the best placing we could come up with - the DC5 shifter cables we're using are on the shorter side Air con delete block off plate fitted so no huge hole directly into the cabin!

Well, the tourer is no more, a nice chap from Wales bought it, and it's either going to be saved to tow his race eg, or end up as an engine donor for it. Karen's got herself a nice blue R18 fk civic, but it's not any good for family adventures. So we've just got a new project...

Can confirm these are direct replacement to the existing big fogs. You might need to swap the plug over however. If I remember correctly the front seal wasn't great so I used a big o-ring between the glass and the front screw on cap piece to keep the water out

Haven't had much time recently myself to work on the MB but my father in law has been cracking on with some jobs in my absence K24 mounted up to the engine stand to begin work K20 oil pump cut and fitted. There is a lot of dried up oil "varnish" within the engine so we may run some engine flush and change the oil again once it's running. RBC cam gear fitted (50 degree VTC) - Chains and guides refitted, timing checked. As the eagle eyed may be able to spot - unfortunately one of the oil pump guide bolts rounded off on removal... so after one trip to the local Honda dealer and £7.25 lighter i'm the proud owner of a new guide bolt! (It's crazy how overpriced these small parts are in the UK. They're £1.64 in Japan but of course that comes with a 2 week wait...) Front VTI-S lip test fit - needs painting of course. Currently pondering what to do with the fog lights as they are a bit of an eyesore - one of them has rusted inside and it looks like there's a surround missing. I might just get the blanks and delete them, weight saving (!).

Tubs2 looking good in the sun today, even with a thick coating of pollen.

yeah it should be compatible.

Quick test pic

Cracking work so far mate. You make it sound so easy lol. Hoping to see this at a Civic5 meet (if we ever get one organised again!) Be good to see it in the metal.

Thank you for the warm welcome both I am basically following guides for an EG K-swap as the car seems to be almost identical as far as a K swap is concerned. Even the EG conversion harness (to connect the new engine loom to the existing car loom) appears to work for the MB. Spent a day on the car today and progress as follows: Bye bye D14! Some areas of surface rust in the engine bay that we'll go over with a flap wheel and spraypaint over just to stop it getting any worse but not found anything that needs any welding etc so that's good news Made a bit of a mess knocking out the leftmost engine mount bracket (required to install the EGK2 Hasport mounts). Drilled all the spot welds out but it still wasn't budging so ended up going in behind it with a hammer and chisel and it eventually came off - the chassis has suffered a few battle scars but nothing a bit of sanding and paint can't cure! I've agreed to buy an EP3 civic gearbox so now that the gearbox has been chosen the next job I think will be to get hold of a shifter from an Integra DC5 and get that mounted in the car and get the shifter cables fed through to the engine bay and the shifter mounted. If i'd gone for an FN2 or accord gearbox I would've needed an accord shifter as the pattern is reversed. And finally my first mod! A set of clear indicators, I believe they were from an accord - I had to file off a small tab on the casing to get them to fit the connector was a direct swap so that's a good result