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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2025 in all areas

  1. Sooo, had a bit of an accident with Lexy â˜šī¸ On way to work at silly o clock in the morning so still dark. Pulled out to pass a van, got almost online with his front wheel and heard an almighty bang! Then followed horrible grinding sound! Thought the engine or gearbox had went, the bang was so loud. Pulled in and went to front of the car and front bumper on passenger side is smashed with a big bit missing, and the plastic wheel arch trim (the colour coded bit that's part of the body kit, not the inner arch) is off and dragging along the ground, held on by one clip at the bottom! 😲 No idea what I hit, but it was solid! Thinking that the van either threw up a rock or maybe a large tree branch. Managed to clip the arch back on best I could and drove home. Had a loud rattle from underneath so was worried what else had been damaged.Checked and whatever I hit also dislodged the exhaust heatshield and also snapped the exhaust hanger clean off the exhaust! Gutted! I managed to source a replacement bumper in the same red down in Durham for ÂŖ100, and the wheel arch, again in red, via Ebay. Wheelarch was the hardest bit to source and cost almost as much as the bumper! She still drives fine, just looks a bit of a mess, but will get her sorted soon. Will post up a couple of pics when I get a chance. Alwayshappens near Christmas!
    2 points
  2. Hi, realise I've been a bit of a stranger here lately. Apologies. Hope the team is good, Glad to see still going strong. Thaught id pop in as been tinkering again. History repeating I suppose. This time gone for an ep3 and made a fast road car/semi track car. Baught late 2024 from Southampton. Got it back and realised it was originally from my local honda dealer. So it came home really. Complete Stock car well used but with plenty of history, not the best example but far from a nail. In the last 12 months. Ive done lots of bits. From tidying underside underside. Rebushed. Rebuilt rack. Powder coated arms. New everything really. New timing chain etc. Rebuilt the gearbox. Added lsd. Then started prepping for turbo. Quite a bit of work to do on these to make room for the setup as there's looms and lines everywhere on the bulkhead. Anyway lots of custom bits and 3d printed stuff later. And I won't say it's complete. Cus they never are. But it's a pretty wild little car now. Lots of fun.
    1 point
  3. Cheers mate. Not exactly mint. But it's tidy enough. Bit over mint. Although I do try do decent work on em
    1 point
  4. Looks really good underneath far better than any UK Monday of same age.
    1 point
  5. Turns out that it was losing it from both drive shaft seals and shifter linkage seal. Seems groovy now with them replaced and another mtf top up.
    1 point
  6. Cheers man, I've really fell for it. Crawled around underneath at the weekend squirting lanoguard in all it's crevices. Just lifted it right up on the bags and it was higher than I can normally jack the deck up 😂 Took a couple of (not very good) before pics after a bit pressure wash the day before. Generally clean enough, but glad I've got it treated now as there's a few places where there's some slight signs of rust starting.
    1 point
  7. Welcome back mate, good to see you back in a civic - looks up to your usual minter standard 😎
    1 point
  8. Thanks.. Suppose which diff depends on your budget and goals. I've put a black line helical diff in this. Seems to work as intended, however I did only choose it as got a fantastic deal on it. 350ish brand new delivered from somewhere. Matt Lewis racing possibly. Not aggressive at all but locks up when plant your foot. I've had a m factory race pack diff previously, that was very good. I believe quaife etc are bit steeper but often you get what you pay for. Obvs plates diffs are noisier and do wear out eventually.
    1 point
  9. I don't have it to hand but I will check the car next time I am with it and let you know (it's not parked at my house unfortunately) - probably at the weekend If it helps there are some results for the rover part number (RGD10001) on autodoc RGD10-001 A.B.S., ASHIKA | RGD10001 in AUTODOC
    1 point
  10. I noticed the same thing but honestly I am not sure of the positives/negatives of each type - I think the style you show in your photo will also work fine, it's just a different design. It seems like Rover prefer the flat piece of metal and Honda use the rod type. Personally I would go with the Rover style as its guaranteed to fit but I think either will probably work OK.
    1 point
  11. Beautiful car! LSD and eventually a turbo and is on my list of "eventually" plans for Phase 2 of my car (I best actually drive it in "Phase 1" first though...) Which LSD did you go for? I'm thinking a Quaife ATB might be the way to go (so my friend tells me anyway) but im undecided at the moment
    1 point
  12. Welcome, and nice work so far :) For the anti roll bar - I fitted a Rover 20mm (from an MG ZS 180) unit and used the following parts, if it helps (I keep meaning to make a post about this as I struggled to find the info when I was sorting mine out). I imagine most of the parts are similar to the 16mm, according to the internet the drop links are the same, only the bushes changed to accommodate the thinner bar. 1x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar (#1 in diagram) 20mm thickness. Not available new any more. 2x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar Mounting L Brackets (#6 in diagram) Should come with the ARB above. As above, no longer available new 8x M8x16 Bolts (#12 in diagram) Part number FS108161 4x for mounting the arm L bracket to the car 4x for bushing holder clamp https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/fs108161-bolt-flanged-m8-x-16mm-multiple-applications-all-models?_pos=1&_sid=8a59d95b9&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to car (#9 in diagram) Part number RYG10035 + WC110061 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/bolt-flanged-head-anti-roll-bar-link-to-lower-arm-rover-200-400r8-400-45-zs-ryg10035?_pos=1&_sid=55e521b1c&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to ARB (#11 in diagram) Rover part number RYG10034 Honda part number 90162-SK3-000 BOLT, RR. STABILIZER LINK (M10X50) https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RYG10034 2x ARB Drop links (#7 in diagram) Part number RGD10001 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-400-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-bush-kit-rgd10001 2x ARB bush bracket (#4 in diagram) Part number EGP1714 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mgf-tf-rover-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-bracket-egp1714-genuine-mg?variant=43335747174563 2x Rear Anti Roll Bar Bracket Bush 20mm (#2 in diagram) Powerflex PFR42-515-20 Superflex 0266/20K Rover Part number RGX10017 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bushes-rgx10017-superflex-pair?_pos=3&_sid=9ed9f4d9a&_ss=r 1x Powerflex Rear Anti Roll Bar Link Bush Kit (#3 and #8 in diagram) PFR25-111 Part Number RGX10003 https://www.tegiwa.com/products/powerflex-road-series-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-kit-honda-civic-ej-ek-ballade-95-05 2x ARB end metal bush collar (not included with Powerflex kit - #5 in diagram) Part number RGX10004 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-200-400-600-45-zs-rear-trailing-arm-anti-roll-bar-collar-rgx10004?variant=44419224240291
    1 point
  13. Cheers - thats what we ended up doing in the end and it worked, The pedal has a lot of free play at the top so I need to adjust the pushrod and the bump stopper thing at the top, will tackle that next time
    1 point
  14. Loving the new bus mate. Superb
    1 point
  15. Use a syringe and back fill the clutch slave btw. I do this on most things works a treat on clutch motorcycle brakes etc
    1 point
  16. Manifold from other d series and after market should fit. Direct fit I doubt. Will likely need some modification and relocation of certain bits.
    1 point
  17. Welcome. Looks good. Always some niggle the age these are at. Looks like it's good hands and will be back to it full flory in no time
    1 point
  18. Hello to all of you, First time posting on the forum, kinda wanted to share a bit about my mb2 since i first came to find some knowledge about these mb chassis. It's my first car, family owned since new and it's getting to the 100k km mark, and in my two years of driving and enjoying the car i can say it's a great car and frankly very underrated and deserves a lot more recognition The car has nothing major done to it, it's mostly stock aside from some small cosmetics. The mods are: Front mudflaps out of a junkyard pirate black mb2 1DIN android auto radio Reuphostered steering wheel Rear spoiler out of a Rover I have many plans for it later but most of em are cosmetics and i won't bother to modify a D14, maybe just a intake at best since the oem one is plastic. It's getting lowered and i want it to ride on some ek4 vti rims, or civic jordan rims and vti lip is also in the list Cheer, Costa.
    1 point
  19. Sorry ppl lost long in details but now back. Here how car looking
    1 point
  20. I replaced the wood on the ventilation controls and in the gear shift area, one broke. This wood breaks very easily. The VTI lip is hard to find, I also searched for one for my MB3. Five years ago I managed to buy the VTI lip for my MB2 for 30 euros, it was a bargain. Now they want 100 for it. This is in Portugal. If you need any help with your car, i can help you. I have done some things on my mb2 though the years. And i know one or two guys who maybe have the parts that you looking for.
    1 point
  21. Car is finally back from the exhaust shop. The tailpipe is pretty subtle looking but it sounds pretty angry (in a good way!) Not the best pics as was on axle stands today but it's got a 200 cell sports cat then 3" all the way through with a centre res and rear box. It's totally overkill for N/A but I wanted to prepare for all possible eventualities! Worked on a few other annoying issues. The throttle body was sticking open slightly but that seemed to be down to a rubber boot on the throttle cable getting jammed in the throttle body wheel. Secured that on properly and now it seems to be behaving itself. No signs of any check engine lights related to O2 sensor, I think my suspicion about it just being because it was at the end of the pipe was correct. Replaced the totally rotten and corroded bleed nipples on the rear drums and managed to do a full bleed of the brake system, that's working a lot better now. Battled with bleeding the clutch all day. The master cylinder looked like it was weeping so I fitted a new one but this didnt help at all, despite fluid coming through it still feels spongy. Next time im going to try a "reverse bleed" pushing fluid back up from the slave cylinder end... to be continued
    1 point
  22. Looking good if I do say so myself! Headlights definitely letting the side down, need a good polish and coating.
    1 point
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