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Hi mate. There is some mystery over the actual numbers of each VTiS model made. The logbook should have made it easy to identify a genuine one, but unfortunately even that is a minefield as Honda dealerships made mistakes with them when registering the car with the UK DVLA. Some have VTiS on the logbook, some just state model as VTi. The only parts that were unique to the VTiS were drivers side floor mat which had the VTiS logo on it (the other 3 mats were just standard) the gear knob (alloy and engraved in the early VTiS, silver plastic/black leather with "VTiS" in black on it for the post 1997 ones) and the alloys (again, these differed so early ones got 15" Speedline Chronos wheels, later ones got the same as the ones in your photos which are 15" Speedline "fans"). The body kit was available in the accessory catalogue, but was standard on the VTiS. The "mid spoiler" on the aerodeck was also an accessory option. The other thing that marked out the VTiS was the pirates black paint. All VTiS came in pirates black only, so any you see that don't have pirates black are 100% not a genuine VTiS. The Aerodeck ones are a lot rarer as most were the mb6 5 door hatch. Hope this helps a little.

Hi, realise I've been a bit of a stranger here lately. Apologies. Hope the team is good, Glad to see still going strong. Thaught id pop in as been tinkering again. History repeating I suppose. This time gone for an ep3 and made a fast road car/semi track car. Baught late 2024 from Southampton. Got it back and realised it was originally from my local honda dealer. So it came home really. Complete Stock car well used but with plenty of history, not the best example but far from a nail. In the last 12 months. Ive done lots of bits. From tidying underside underside. Rebushed. Rebuilt rack. Powder coated arms. New everything really. New timing chain etc. Rebuilt the gearbox. Added lsd. Then started prepping for turbo. Quite a bit of work to do on these to make room for the setup as there's looms and lines everywhere on the bulkhead. Anyway lots of custom bits and 3d printed stuff later. And I won't say it's complete. Cus they never are. But it's a pretty wild little car now. Lots of fun.

I clear them regularly because I have tin foil hat. So shouldn't be an issue. Merry Xmas anyway.

Know what you mean about the weather. In theory winter's the perfect time to get sone jobs done cos the deck is off the road, but got zero motivation to do anything in the cold / wet / dark. @Dave any idea why Jake can't post pics?

Yeah, was gutted! Still no idea what it was, but got the parts now to fix her so will probably look at getting them fitted over the Christmas break.

Cheers mate. Not exactly mint. But it's tidy enough. Bit over mint. Although I do try do decent work on em

Welcome back mate, good to see you back in a civic - looks up to your usual minter standard 😎

Have you tried deleting cookies etc Jake?

Hello everybody, this is my first post on the forum and in it I'll introduce you to my car. I have bought my 1998 Civic LS 5 door MB3 about a little more than two years ago now with 114k km, its been my daily ever since, and i've absolutely fallen in love with it, having about 153k km now, and am now trying to give it the love and recognition it deserves. Unfortunately, since the car has been pretty reliable except for some minor repairs, I have almost neglected looking for bigger problems, also due do a lack of time and money. Now however, a little bit ago my entire suspension failed, all four shocks started leaking and i broke a spring, just 2 days after getting it approved for 2 more years by TÜV (yes, I live in Germany), and I decided it was time to make the car into what I always wanted it do be: a reliable daily, that is also fun to drive, but wont knock my passengers teeth out. Since in Germany it feels almost impossible to mod a cars power in any reasonable way, i have to do my absolute best to get the most out of the chassis. Initially, i planned to fix all the minor problems before going to the 'upgrading'-phase of the build, however my failing suspension has left me no choice with that. Since i didnt (and still dont) have alot of money, i have looked for the cheapest coilovers that didnt seem like absolute garbage, had some decent reviews, and had valid papers in germany that allowed me to use them with non-stock wheels (which is apparently a problem most low-budget coilovers have in germany). So, what has been done to the car? I ended up with the MTS-Street kit, in the hopes of it being a good middle ground between the Comfort and Sport variants. So far i cant really judge how that went, due to the car still not being ready for getting my new parts registered in my papers, and therefore not really being able to take it out on the roads (also, the alignment is still screwed). But it doesnt feel heaps uncomfortable, also due to me running 14 inch wheels with 185/60 all-season road cushions. Another thing im adding in the same process, so i only have to reason with Tüv once for now, are wheel spacers. I did 20mm per axle in the front and 30mm per axle in the rear, and it already helped the looks alot. After both of that is done and registered, i have a long list of some little (and some not so little) problems to fix. First of those, of course: Rust. In all the typical spots. A previous owner covered the entire underside in rubber-based rust protection, thats is now starting to rust through. Also, they never took off the side skirts for that, so the rocker panels look pretty shot, and i'm worried its almost reaching structurally relevant points in the front, also already having eaten its way up into my fender and my door mounting points, all caused by the notorious dirt trap behind the front wheels and fender. Of course i have the typical little starting rust spots at the mounting points of the rear bumper. A bigger problem however is my rear right door, that seems to have taken a hit from a previous owners endeavors, and they never properly sealed the inside door weld, so now that looks like the surface of mars too. Also, of course all my suspension parts are heavily rusting, and i intend to polish all of them down once i have the time and access to tools for it. I have already repainted (and previously de-rusted) my rear lower suspension arms, due to having to replace all the old, shot bushings in there for the new suspension (which was a rather scary hydraulic press job). While doing that, i also noticed they have the the mounting holes for an ARB pre-drilled. The rust has also made its way to my fuel lines, so that will have to become urgent soon. The long list of other little problems include: - The headliner, of course - My fog light lenses are cracked - The interior clock light has given out - My drivers floor mat has a hole - oops. - My fans only work on the highest setting, rip blower resistor - The wooden plate covering my spare wheel has a big crack, someone tried sitting on it without the spare wheel in there... - One jack mounting point is a little bent inwards (not exactly a small problem, pretty scary when its on a lift :') ) - The previous owner installed a soind system in the boot shelf, and left all the wires and screws exposed... looks horrid - They also installed a pretty ugly cheap dotted tint on all rear windows - My A/C is currently out of commission (begging its not a compressor issue) - The cheap ugly RGB radio headunit installed by a previous owner now has a broken volume knob... So after mentioning all the faults, what are the plans? I first intend to make the interior livable again, so things like headliner and A/C will be tackled first. For the headunit, i was looking for a sleek modern one that has an expandable screen, that also works when not extended, and also one that has its own android system so i can install Hondash, to connect it to my adapter. No big use for Hondash in that car just yet, but owning one just adds to the feels :)) . That combination has proven to be pretty complicated, if i want one that doesnt look like a cheap RGB-Setup, but I'd like the option to have the screen turned off while driving at night. Parallel to that i will have to tackle my rust issues. I will contact a capable welder/bodymaker to take a look at my rocker panel and tell me whether its fixable or has to be replaced for safety. All the other little spots i hope to fix by myself, except for maybe the door, because i might just need a new one. After these biggest problems are out the way, i have two things coming up: My rear bumper has a pretty significant mark from being hit, and in the front the paint is starting to peel unter the plastic bumper trim. The fix i have for that is currently locked away in my garage: I have acquired a front and rear bumper with the VTI-S kit lips screwed on: They're not actually from an MB6, so there is no headlight washer nozzle. I also got the Spoiler in the same purchase, however it didnt include the VTI-S Sideskirts, but the normal painted stock ones. All of these parts will need to be painted, because the clear coat is peeling and they are in a different colour anyways. The other thing i'm tackling at the same point is trying to install the 16mm Rover rear anti roll bar. I dont quite know how TÜV will like that just yet, but ill cross that bridge when i get to it. I have already acquired almost all needed parts for that. The bar, of which i have two, a rusted old one and a brand new one, the rubber end link bushes, the mounting brackets and mounting bushes (of which i needed to buy the Superflex alternative because i couldnt find the OEM ones). However i am still missing two critical thing: The end link rods, because i dont know the exact length i need for the rover ARB. I have found 90mm and 83mm ones and still have to measure what might work (unless somebody coincidentlly knows and can tell me?). The other huge thing im missing is the L-shaped bracket that is screwed to the underbody, that the Mounting bushing bracket thingy bolts on to. I have no clue where to get those, and if i cant find any i might have to get the measurements from an MB6 ( a friend of mine owns one) and try to get it replicated by a professional. So after adressing all the cosmetic and suspension plans, what's the drive train/engine plan? Well. Things like swapping or tuning an engine is pretty hard to almost impossible to do legally in germany it seems, due to several problems. My ECU is, as far as I'm aware, not tuneable without replacing it. In germany that could get me into pretty big trouble once someone finds out. Also, significantly changing a cars emissions without getting it registered is considered tax evasion, so uh yeah that might be a little risky as well. But of course, you cant even exactly get it registered because its simply illegal to worsen a cars emssions below the stock values. At least i get to keep my amazing d15z8 fuel milage, i guess. I also dont know how any of these regulations translate to other contries, and I am only somewhat familiar with german road laws. So what can i do? My ideas include: - a d16z6 oder d16y8 throttle body, together with slightly widening my intake manifold opening - replacing my air filter with a K&N replacement one, keeping my stock air box - Getting a d16 exhaust manifold and/or rest of exhaust system (Im considering getting a subtle but a little better looking end muffler anyways, but those can come with papers so that's fine) - Advancing my timing ever so slighlty, and then only filling up on 98 octane (which i've been doing a little bit either way) - Changing my Gearbor for an s20 or s40 one, after researching if that fits and works - If i have the money, pay a professional to install an LSD plate in there - While doing all that i'll have to tidy up my ugly rusted and chaotic engine bay that's been neglected for 27 years... maybe paint the valve cover. Tüv wouldnt be a fan of almost any of these most likely, but i will simply bank on them not checking every single engine bay parts number for a match... Some experiences i've had with the car so far: - Had a stray cat kidnap my car: - Been to the Hockenheimring (blasting Mario Cart music): VID-20250420-WA0028_1.mp4 - Seen a Miata: - Convinced someone to buy an old car: - Taken part in a classics and pre-classics navigational and regularity Rally: That's pretty much all there is to say about the car (except i have definitly forgotten quite a bit)! Even though i have owned it for more than two years now, i have still not managed to come up with a fitting name for it, but i'm sure that will change soon. Thank you to everyone's interest who has read this far. Excuse me if there are any blatant language or car-part-naming-mistakes here, english isnt my first language after all. In the end, i will most likely use this thread to simply keep tabs on what i want to do with the car, and using it hold myself accountable for finally fixing it :)

Thanks! Sure hope so, at least it keeps me from getting bored of it ;) I could have lived without most of the snapped bolts though... :')

Just tried again. Says "unable to complete task due to low memory" same as before. Probably something my end.

Thank you

Was gonna put some pics up of work from stock to this point. But can't upload pics anymore for some reason. Bit fed up with the weather tbh. Got some small jobs I'd like to be doing but s**tting it down all the while.

I do love it. Have always liked bayside blue gtrs

Glad it's sorted mate, will be back to feeling nice and smooth again.

It almost seems old fashioned to create a build thread these days on the age of social media (one of the worst things that happened to the car community is the 2382834 facebook groups full of scammers and people asking the same questions over and over - but thats a rant for another day). I always find they are a great thing to do, if for nothing else for my own benefit to remember what I did previously 🙃 also found lots of great gems of info already on this forum - and more to discover im sure A bit of backstory - I've been bitten by the Honda bug after buying a 2010 Honda Accord with a K24Z engine - I'd originally intended to get something as a cheaper, ULEZ compliant run-around (I don't live anywhere near a ULEZ but sometimes have to drive into them for work) after getting bored with a non-ULEZ diesel Mercedes that i'd owned previously. I then discovered the scene for those cars, and good they look with the right modifications. I love it to bits but it's heavy, and the modifications you can do are somewhat limited by it having the less desirable R40 head on the engine and the rarity of 2.4 petrol, manual examples in the UK. Most buyers bought a diesel version (it was peak era of buyers being encouraged by the government to buy a diesel - how the tables have turned). I only know of a handful of others in existence and even fewer are modified. They are popular in the USA so some tuning parts are available over there but it often results in expensive shipping, import duties and long waits for things to arrive, and no chance to get anything second hand as most sellers aren't willing to ship internationally. Me and my father in law have been looking for a project to do together for a while as we've reached the end with most of our other projects (mostly just repairs and upgrades to our other cars) - initially I thought maybe a restoration project but we went to a car show recently and saw lots of cool JDM cars and thought that it might be an idea to do something along those lines. I have always been interested in a K-swap of sorts anyway and as I know quite a lot about Hondas and K-series engines from modifying my accord a plan was formed.. Initially I started looking at the usual suspects for a K-swap like an EG, EK, etc but we missed the boat on getting one for a good price and even rotten examples are changing hands for more than £2000 now, so I started digging into more unusual choices. After speaking to an acquaintance he mentioned to me that the MB civic might be a good place to look as it shares a lot of parts with Civic EG and Integra DC2, two now (to me at least) unaffordable cars but with great aftermarket support. I also looked at a few more leftfield choices like a really high mileage Honda CR-Z (came to the conclusion the subframe was rotten) and a Honda logo (too much fabrication). The MB/MC seems to be the last affordable 90s Honda, so it was now or never. I found a low mileage MB2 for sale. It was a 1.4i model, completely base spec, but that didn't matter for our purposes. In fact, I was quite interested because it didn't have a sunroof, and I've had nothing but grief with sunroofs in the past letting in water and making the car smell like an "old man's ball sack" (as my fiancée succinctly put it), and the low spec didn't really matter anyway for what we were going to do. Because of the low mileage (56,000) and original looking condition, including what I believe to be original dealer plates and stickers, I thought this could be a promising lead on a shell. It's very late for an MB2 - March 2001 on a Y plate - I've seen EP/EU civics rolling about on older W and X plates so they must've been sold at the same time - it would've looked and felt incredibly dated by comparison I imagine! The pictures weren't great as they were clearly from an auction (you know the ones I mean with the car photoshopped badly onto a showroom backdrop) I arranged with the seller dealer to go and see the car (near Bradford by the way - the stereotypes are alive and well) and when we arrived I was told the car wasn't available as there was "a problem with it" and it was parked at his house (undoubtedly this is why it was auction in the first place). Whilst being annoyed at him, I explained that we wanted to buy the car as a shell anyway and asked what was wrong - some kind of overheating issue - so we went around the corner to have a look at it on a driveway. The car looked fine although very dirty, and the sills/bodywork etc seemed to be solid other than normal age related surface rust and mileage genuine as the seats look almost new. The bodywork was unfortunately a bit tatty with various dubious repairs and perished rubbers but it's to be expected for the price/age. I took it for a quick test drive - which was a particular highlight as the prospective seller lit up a cigarette while I was driving around - without asking permission might I add - but other than the rising temperature everything seemed fine, so we agreed a price - so I drove it to the nearest petrol station, bought a bottle of radiator sealant (it seemed to be losing coolant) and poured that in, along with some water, and then drove it 1 hour home with the windows open and heater blowers on full to try to make sure I didn't break down on the M1. The car made it back fine although the temperature was climbing when stopped in traffic, it went down again when on the move. Here's the only picture I have of it at the moment: The current plan is basically to do a K-swap with a K24A with mild upgrades (K20 oil pump, 50 degree VTC), and an EP3 civic gearbox. We would love to build a boosted car eventually, but lets get the basics done first. As it's a heavier (by 90s standards) car and K24s are much cheaper these days, it seemed a better choice than a K20. In terms of styling i'm not really sure at the moment - probably try to keep it OEM+ for sleeper factor although not full sleeper - the wheels will definitely need to get changed as it's currently running 175 wide 14" tyres, budget brand that were getting on 10 years old (can confirm - they have no grip whatsoever). Watch this space 👀

Glad you're happy with the exhaust - it does look pretty discrete. I liked the difference my sports cat made, to feel and tone.

It's mad how obsessed with salt we are here and how much difference it makes. It's going to be off road for the winter (after Christmas tree duties at the weekend) but wanted to give it a treatment.

Looks really good underneath far better than any UK Monday of same age.

Turns out that it was losing it from both drive shaft seals and shifter linkage seal. Seems groovy now with them replaced and another mtf top up.

Cheers man, I've really fell for it. Crawled around underneath at the weekend squirting lanoguard in all it's crevices. Just lifted it right up on the bags and it was higher than I can normally jack the deck up 😂 Took a couple of (not very good) before pics after a bit pressure wash the day before. Generally clean enough, but glad I've got it treated now as there's a few places where there's some slight signs of rust starting.

I don't have it to hand but I will check the car next time I am with it and let you know (it's not parked at my house unfortunately) - probably at the weekend If it helps there are some results for the rover part number (RGD10001) on autodoc RGD10-001 A.B.S., ASHIKA | RGD10001 in AUTODOC

Cheers - thats what we ended up doing in the end and it worked, The pedal has a lot of free play at the top so I need to adjust the pushrod and the bump stopper thing at the top, will tackle that next time

Loving the new bus mate. Superb

Manifold from other d series and after market should fit. Direct fit I doubt. Will likely need some modification and relocation of certain bits.

Sooo, had a bit of an accident with Lexy ☹️ On way to work at silly o clock in the morning so still dark. Pulled out to pass a van, got almost online with his front wheel and heard an almighty bang! Then followed horrible grinding sound! Thought the engine or gearbox had went, the bang was so loud. Pulled in and went to front of the car and front bumper on passenger side is smashed with a big bit missing, and the plastic wheel arch trim (the colour coded bit that's part of the body kit, not the inner arch) is off and dragging along the ground, held on by one clip at the bottom! 😲 No idea what I hit, but it was solid! Thinking that the van either threw up a rock or maybe a large tree branch. Managed to clip the arch back on best I could and drove home. Had a loud rattle from underneath so was worried what else had been damaged.Checked and whatever I hit also dislodged the exhaust heatshield and also snapped the exhaust hanger clean off the exhaust! Gutted! I managed to source a replacement bumper in the same red down in Durham for £100, and the wheel arch, again in red, via Ebay. Wheelarch was the hardest bit to source and cost almost as much as the bumper! She still drives fine, just looks a bit of a mess, but will get her sorted soon. Will post up a couple of pics when I get a chance. Alwayshappens near Christmas!

Sorry ppl lost long in details but now back. Here how car looking

I replaced the wood on the ventilation controls and in the gear shift area, one broke. This wood breaks very easily. The VTI lip is hard to find, I also searched for one for my MB3. Five years ago I managed to buy the VTI lip for my MB2 for 30 euros, it was a bargain. Now they want 100 for it. This is in Portugal. If you need any help with your car, i can help you. I have done some things on my mb2 though the years. And i know one or two guys who maybe have the parts that you looking for.

Car is finally back from the exhaust shop. The tailpipe is pretty subtle looking but it sounds pretty angry (in a good way!) Not the best pics as was on axle stands today but it's got a 200 cell sports cat then 3" all the way through with a centre res and rear box. It's totally overkill for N/A but I wanted to prepare for all possible eventualities! Worked on a few other annoying issues. The throttle body was sticking open slightly but that seemed to be down to a rubber boot on the throttle cable getting jammed in the throttle body wheel. Secured that on properly and now it seems to be behaving itself. No signs of any check engine lights related to O2 sensor, I think my suspicion about it just being because it was at the end of the pipe was correct. Replaced the totally rotten and corroded bleed nipples on the rear drums and managed to do a full bleed of the brake system, that's working a lot better now. Battled with bleeding the clutch all day. The master cylinder looked like it was weeping so I fitted a new one but this didnt help at all, despite fluid coming through it still feels spongy. Next time im going to try a "reverse bleed" pushing fluid back up from the slave cylinder end... to be continued

Spot on. I'm sure these cars look better the older they get 😎

Its been a long time since the last update. So yeah of course it is fully wrapped now by myself and lowered even more. Looks pretty good but for sure sometime in the future I might paint it (I'm currently doing car painting education) plans for the future: Turbo... I found a cheap kit on marketplace and then I'm gonna try and make a reliable stock internal setup, so not that high boost

That E10 is absolute dog turd.. Only e5 goes in ours, especially after it ruined the injectors in Karen's accord. It's like a double bonus of super unleaded in top of not being E10 👌

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

Some of the rear seat configurations The middle row also flip round to face backwards.. Pretty clever setup 😎

A rather inebriated looking K24A showed up this morning But it has the RBB markings on the head which is what matters - meaning it is the "full fat" version with 3-lobe VTEC and ~200hp. There is a similar looking version with 160hp and only 2 cam lobes so you have to be careful! Hopefully get that mounted up onto an engine stand at some point and take a closer look inside but so far so good. For peace of mind i'm going to give it a compression test and have a peek into the cylinders with a scope before going any further.

Thank you for the warm welcome both I am basically following guides for an EG K-swap as the car seems to be almost identical as far as a K swap is concerned. Even the EG conversion harness (to connect the new engine loom to the existing car loom) appears to work for the MB. Spent a day on the car today and progress as follows: Bye bye D14! Some areas of surface rust in the engine bay that we'll go over with a flap wheel and spraypaint over just to stop it getting any worse but not found anything that needs any welding etc so that's good news Made a bit of a mess knocking out the leftmost engine mount bracket (required to install the EGK2 Hasport mounts). Drilled all the spot welds out but it still wasn't budging so ended up going in behind it with a hammer and chisel and it eventually came off - the chassis has suffered a few battle scars but nothing a bit of sanding and paint can't cure! I've agreed to buy an EP3 civic gearbox so now that the gearbox has been chosen the next job I think will be to get hold of a shifter from an Integra DC5 and get that mounted in the car and get the shifter cables fed through to the engine bay and the shifter mounted. If i'd gone for an FN2 or accord gearbox I would've needed an accord shifter as the pattern is reversed. And finally my first mod! A set of clear indicators, I believe they were from an accord - I had to file off a small tab on the casing to get them to fit the connector was a direct swap so that's a good result

Progress so far Started to strip out the engine - radiator (probably leaking) and AC condenser (also probably leaking) removed: Painting the rear bumper - to cover various marks and scratches but also somewhat of an experiment to see what it looks like with rubber strips colour coded (from photos i've seen I think it will look better) I've started putting together a list of parts that i'd like to acquire (the amount of small parts you need for a K-swap is crazy. It's all bolt on but you definitely need a spreadsheet or similar to manage it!)

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

Fitted some fn2 type r seats in. Took a little while to get rails matching and tbh it may be a little sketchy setup but it sits for now 🤷