djbaybeeraver23

Hi Guys, will have a new project thread coming soon for jessica.. but i have niggly driver window problem.. the rest of the windows work fine but the driver one doesn't on the switch. could it be the little white box behind the door panel, or will it be the actual regulator?. its quite annoying not being able to open my window and let the fresh air in.. have checked the fuses but then surely if it was a fuse, none of the windows would open?.

because the dizzy cap, bottom bolt seized and sheared off, so if i was to replace the cap, would have to drill out and get re-threaded, its much easier to replace the unit.. new one is on its way from the states.. £135 delivered.

i was told it not the best way as could fry the ecu!.. however the one with the big square plug is a TD81U distributor... type it in google and view images.. can see that the plugs and pins match.. i have already sent the new unit back as wrong model.. did contemplate the whole cutting malarky.. however didnt fancy £300+ for the ecu etc.. the code on the back D3179 brings up TD68U dizzys which are the same inside yes but the plugs are not.. but whilst scouring the net of which i have done for the last 3 days.. established that it is the 81U unit i need.. but still waiting for the funds to come back is killing me.. just want to give my beast a nice blast.. the vtec noise in Antigua is nothing like here . they all sounded.. pretty rough.. was a few nice tegs and one EP3TR. that was nice in CW with CF bonnet white wheels, easy pushing 240. big $$$ spent in it .. anywho back to the topic, i dont even have anyone with the same engine to try swapping one over and seeing if it will actually start!. i hope its the dizzy, cant think of anything else that it could be once this has been replaced?. by the way, when you swap the whole unit, i read you have to line the rotor up with number one so the timing isnt out. if its a new unit, would this be set in the one position, or will it require removing the cap, setting and then refitting?. and if the crank isn't at one then need to turn the crank until it is?. have the book but i just want to be clear! dont need to have to buy a whole engine!

hmmm... mine was the one with 2 plugs.. but hang fire.. there are 2 types of dizzys made with 2 plugs. one for the b16 and one for the b18. identical inside but alloy housings are different. speak to ignitioncarparts on 08448223575. dont go any way other than what you have. okay - so i think yours is a 2 pin one - mine is one big square connector - as opposed to your two plug - the alloy housing on mine needs to be replaced which is why i am having so much trouble with it - they sent me a 44U (same as 68U and 2 pin) think early MB's especially mine (97 model) has an 81U dizzy unit (single big square connector) - can you confirm the TD-XX code - see my other post under engine problems as having a right nightmare with it and dont wish to clog up your thread

can someone please help me identify the RIGHT whole DIZZY unit. so far i have found TD-68U and TD-44U - after i purchased 68U and they sent the 44u - i was told they would fit as above, but they really wont as they are two different ports..- but the more i read it turns out i have an Acura GSR/ Honda distributor under the code of TD-81U - now i can get this from amazon - but please can someone confirm what TD-XX code i need to purcase and bolt in form the cam side.. i have to replace the WHOLE unit due to the bottom bolt seizing and snapping off inside the unit so its best to just replace the whole thing. i enclose a link of the item on Amazon to confirm if i am right in thinking this is the right unit. http://www.amazon.co.uk/TD81U-30100P2T004-Integra-Ignition-Distributor/dp/B004IYNPNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347465965&sr=8-1 <-- should be the right one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-INTEGRA-R-1-6-1-8-TD44U-TD68U-DISTRIBUTOR-/160491252012 <--n the wrong unit (44U is the same socket as in the picture) but after major headaches with a 2nd hand unit - i am having to wait now for BOTH refunds to be credited to me before i can purchase another one! but i am now down on the MOT as this expired yesterday.. can someone please help me identify this properly -

hey dude, i understand you bought a dizzy a while ago... would you happen to know what one you got?,. was it 68u or 44u, was sent one stated as 68u but got given a 44u and they say is the same, but 44u has two plugs and mine (d3179) has one giant square plug.. would it work if i kept it, snipped the wires and match them to the plugs on my connector would it work or would i end up throwing the money away?

okay so i got a dizzy, however they sent me TD44U - now they say this would fit.. however the plugs are COMPLETLEY different!.. mine has a big chunky square plug and this one has two.. they say they are the same and will fit.. can someone confirm this?. and if so.. how as i think the port is OBD1 and might be the new one is OBD2?. from what i seen on a forum someone else was trying to figure out what dizzy this one is D3179 as stamped on the back of the dizzy (old one) havent much time to get sorted and have to sit and wait for the refund.. unless there ids a way that this will fit and WORK that wont take hours to correct.. what about cuttting the plugs and wiring the other plug/harness onto it - matching the wires?. would that work?

still nothing, after looking through the links, seems it might be the dizzy, am waiting for someone to check through diag port and see if it the fault.. found a whole new unit from fleabay for £110.. worth it?. had a price from john banks at £500+.. once i have the diag check will be able to see whats causing the problem and get it sorted.. however with the car not being able to start its trying to find someone to come look at it.. :/

Hi guys, not sure If this is the right section but am well and truly lost right now. Okay so I returned from a 2 week vacation, started the car was a tad lumpy but started, let it run for 15-20 mins, loaded the car for my errands, pulled off fine, got to the end of the road, and bang its died, have tried jump and bump starting, bought a new battery, still didn't start, tried bumping and jumping again still nothing, fuel pump primes like it should but just won't fire. Told it could be the dizzy, so went to take it off and bang bottom bolt seized and sheared off in the socket, looked a tad dirty so filed it to get good contact and it still won't fire up, got the mot due at 8:30am and can't get it started for it, I also tried taking each lead out to see If it sparks, nothing so could this be the problem, if so is it a whole new dizzy box etc? And how much am I looking for this as money's tight because I just got back from holiday. Please please please help as its getting me down and getting me vexed!

have to agree with you there bud!, supercharger FTW... and if you want turbo, buy a turbo'd car.. i am sure someone on here was going down jackson supercharger on here.. another member.. saw it a while back now but sure i could find it in the projects thread..

do the gear surround, ashtray, heater surround and will look great.. oi did this all on mine to match my colour, sicilian red r500p and looks great!.. imo honda should of done this to match the car colour on all models!! would of looked so much better

am thinking any b18 silicone pipe would fit right?. been looking at some myself.. yet i cannot seem to find any in the shade of lime green for the b18.. does anyone have any ideas?

going to have to wait a little bit but as soon as done i will let you all know how it goes.. still have two things getting put on soon

also trace the clip wire down to the passenger side footwell under the dash trim play with said lever and you will see a cable moving a lever holding a white box, think that controls valves inside that direct air flow between heat and cool air..

its more noticable if your motorway driving, i wondered this myself, however if you have it on "white" with no heating on and temp dial is in red not blue, then you will have warm air feeding through from the vents, however switch to "BLUE" and you will have cool air coming in.. thats what i have noticed with windows closed and no air con, its a cheap way of allowing cool air into the car without having windows open, next time your on a long distance try and see if i am not just thinking this..

or s14 for rwd drifting turbo fun.. that was going to be my next car but things didnt come to plan so sticking with ron and keeping until the time comes for something else..

great information!. i am sure i speak for many here.. but the 1st time you go to the doctors will be the most daunting.. but once you have been and you and doc are familiar with it.. it becomes 2nd nature talking about it.. cannot recommend this enough.. and the picture of the doctor and patient.. its not like that at all!!. this should be made a sticky and placed on the main page!

great information!. i am sure i speak for many here.. but the 1st time you go to the doctors will be the most daunting.. but once you have been and you and doc are familiar with it.. it becomes 2nd nature talking about it.. cannot recommend this enough.. and the picture of the doctor and patient.. its not like that at all!!. this should be made a sticky and placed on the main page!

i second that with the tesco 99... i have seen the price jump up 8p in 2 weeks mind.. but your right about the mileage.. definitley seems to last that bit longer!.. even with sprited driving.. for me daily driver to and from work and always out in it.. i make a full tank last a week...

thanks for the advice noodels.. much appreciated.. so the springs are pretty much useless.. and seeing as though Eibach are rare as fook.. will stick with the MGZS standard set up and see what it looks like..

okay so i rechecked its not eibach.., therefore not interested... if anyone gets any please let us know what they are like as seem reasonable.. so if they dont work too had does this mean they would be useless for the MB?.. so standard shocks form MGZS180= 30 mm drop or will need extra springs?.

just to bump this up - i found a website that has eibach springs.. just wondered if these were the right ones to swap to if anyone has or is getting the MGZS180 spring and shocks.. http://www.moto-build.com/ - have a look under the suspension upgrade.. would the springs for the 180 work? and fit with the shock kit for a honda?

in response to the above - about the ARB, is this just a standard MGZS 180 ARB?. or honda standard?. did you replace the bushes? and the suspension, did you have to purchase Eibach lowering springs or will the standard MGZS 180 stuff give the 30mm drop anyway?

okay i understand better now.. i have a garage doing it for me so if they struggle.. they can sort it, dont wanna do it on axle stands when i have access to ramps.. i have two sets of LCA's that i am choosing between, am swayed more towards the purple.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230614907207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330698568699?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 as long as they both bit togwether then i anm getting them.. also might be tempted to get some D2 toe kits aswell..

what do you mean by the issue with the bolts?. when it comes to the rear i am doing the aformentioned shocks, newe shiny purple lca's, new shiny lower tie bar and shall be betting new bushes all round, so am i going to need new bolts aswell?. if so can someone link me up, and if they are feeling really nice, could you link me up some bush kits worth investing in? so when it comes to it, its a straight swaop with these or will i need more parts?