DeLaSoul

I can move the seat one click forward and 5 clicks back. New pedals really dictated the seat position as they come back another 5" from the stock position. It'll be more than drivable, just feels weird being so far away from the dashboard and even the indicators! Not unless someone is pushing it along for me Brrrrrrm Brrrrrrrmmmmmm Brrooooom Brooomm lol

Feels a bit more like a car too. Not sure about sitting so far back as I can now really judge it!

Short "work" break and managed a small tidy up of the car and made a start on the wiring and dashboard. Wiring is now going back together. After mocking up the dashboard and working out how and where I wanted the wires to go I finally had the chance to start reconnecting the plugs. I stuck this to the garage wall and slowly but surely hooked the wires back up. Still got a few relays and main power to do but it's all coming along. Each plug is labelled and each wiring leg is covered with over-braid to keep it tidy and protect it. I got asked to do the same thing for a friends engine dyno rig so I will get back to the wiring on mine soon. His one was a little more complicated as i had to remove all the aux functions and make the engine harness "stand alone". I'll get some picture next time I'm in his workshop! On to the dashboard, and getting it to fit around the roll cage. Last time I tried this I give up and just cut the dash in half so this time I took a few hours and got it in with a small amount of clearance. Still a git to get in and out but there is a knack to it. Had to cut a lot away in the rear of the dash to clear the cross bar. All the vents and ducting had to go as well as some of the dash structure. All the gaps at the ends will be filled in and covered over when complete And the pile of bits left over is just more weight saving!

Another box of goodies has arrived! Gates Timing belt kit, ARP head bolts, ARP flywheel & clutch plate bolts, ARP bottom pulley bolt and Golden Eagle block guard. Funky blue belt! Shame it gets covered up really. Waiting for a few more engine bits to arrive before I start stripping the rest of the block down to clean and install. I hope Mr Postman doesn't take too long!

Yes can do, when it starts to go back together as it's a complete mess at the moment. Engine is with the builder for a few weeks at least so won't be going anywhere soon

Lol yes but for the cost of it and the engine being in bits right now it was the best time to drop one in

Not sure, looking at either JE or BC pistons and same for rods but haven't decided. No real rush as I can't afford them at the moment anyway! I'm in America at the end of June for a week so IF I can get a day away I'll go shopping

Okay, bank balance rinsed ARP head, mains, flywheel, clutch plate and bottom pulley bolts ordered Gates Racing Timing belt, water pump and tensioner pulley ordered Golden Eagle Block guard ordered ACL main bearings and shims Looking for pistons and rods and a gasket set next to complete, but no takeaways for me for the next few months

What he said

It's like everything else on the car, built for worst case and it lets you relax as you know it'll be pretty much bullet proof. I had the guys building my engine around the house last night with the hoist to get the block out and they just can't believe the size and quality of the roll cage as it's bigger and stronger than a lot of the race cars they work on, but I want to be able to walk away from a big shunt if the worst ever occurs. Yeap, I think the LSD will struggle with much more power on track, but I'll change all the syncro's out and clutch to be safe. The car was lowered 2" when it was geo'd to go to the Nurburgring, and now with the interior and glass removed but the cage, engine and seat back in it was 2" above stock ride height. With the engine out you could park a bus in the front arches! The weight reduction and chassis stiffness will make a massive difference, and I did toy with the idea of keeping the engine completely stock but I want security and a little more power won't hurt The difference in the C4 and C6 compression ratio is quite a lot which is why the C4 is a better engine to strap a turbo to as it's lower to start with. I have seen pistons sets to take the car to 12.5:1 compression but I have been warned that this will be a crappy engine to drive normally, will only run on premium unleaded (which it will anyway but....) and be more stress on the components. The slightly lower 11.5:1 will be easier to setup and more forgiving.

It'll be a hybrid of C4/C6. I'm told (don't quote me) that the blocks are identical between both engines, it's the pistons, rods and crank girdle that are different. I want to change the pistons and rods anyway, and I'll look at getting a C6 or the Golden Eagle/Function 7 crank girdle. Aiming for a 11.5:1 compression ratio so it'll have a bit more poke but still be a usable engine at lower revs. Block guard and a few other little bits will stop it nuking itself on track but with all the weight loss (me and the car lol) I think 200bhp with the option to dial in a bit more will be enough to put a smile on my face. I've driven 600-800bhp Supra's and they are fun but just not drivable on track. Anyway, engine is now out and with the builder I can now get in there and remove all the unwanted pipe, valves, brackets and bolts and get ready to flip the chassis to do the work underneath. All a bit manic as I keep switching from electrical to mechanical jobs but it keeps me out of trouble!

Few weeks (hopefully) New head, exhaust manifold, cams and wiring on the engine is here. Just need new pistons, rods, gaskets and crank girdle to complete the build so down to money at the moment.

Okay, proper update: Started on the loom (spaghetti junction) again. So this: was dragged indoors and laid out with all the components. All the relays, plugs and components were mapped and cut out of the loom (checking everything against the Honda wiring diagrams - ) Leaving another mess of wires to be cleaned up Leaving the dash with just the wiring to the switches attached and the separated plugs to the engine. With the nice "clean" interior, everything was put in place ready to be re-connected. Cardboard templates were made for all the brackets needed to hold everything in place. These will be taken out and made in aluminium when I get time (few months away then!). Main fuse blocks are now in the middle of the car to shorten the cable runs, so I need to only run one wire from the battery to the black fuse box. I also mocked up the brake bias lever (yellow handle next to the handbrake) Everything is labelled up with my favourite tool! New mini heater matrix is in place - small fraction of the weight of the original but should be enough to keep my feet warm. It's directly below the original screen vents so I can duct it to blow up the middle of the screen if required. And the plugs labelled with the heat-shrink function of my printer Battery in place And high flow fuel filter (metal element type) also in place ready for fuel lines and mounting bolts Time to pull the head off Pistons relatively clean, bores still have the honing marks so the original block still good Original P72 head next to the PR3 head and ITR cams Exhaust side is the same, intake and cam profiles are quite a bit different. Head gaskets and pulleys are identical so they will swap cleanly. I couldn't photograph it but the ITR head has double valve springs vs the P72 head single (MORE REVS!!!!)

Engine guy is coming around tonight to pull the block and gearbox out of the car so moving forward

2015? Maybe lol. It's still a way off yet as it needs all the brackets welding in and the shell stripping and painting

Cheers mate.Head is now off and engine being pulled in the next few days. Just bought a new head and cams plus a socketed P30 ECU so I can map the engine once it's all back in. Managed to strip the last of the wiring loom today and mock up the interior ready for re-wiring. I'll post pics in the week but pleased so far.

Taken when I changed out the faulty ignition switch in mine. I made the mistake of ordering the switch for the Automatic and although it plugged in it wouldn't start the car but a quick switch over of the wires in the plug solved that. When you say your new one is faulty - are they wired up the same? Take a look at the last picture as for me the plugs where the same but the wires went to different pins. Smaller wires are for the illumination LED (from memory) Differences between auto and manual plug Not got any more pics but hope they help

LOL, If I was in the deck I'd wonder over if I saw you but some random wandering up in a carpark driving an old VW would get a funny response. If I see you around Asda next time I'm there I'll say hi, how's that?

Heat shrink label printer I think you're not too far from me if yours is the Black deck with the Civic5 logo in the rear window, or at least you shop at the places I do!

Okay, bit of a day on the wiring! First of all, I want a seperate harness for the ECU with a plug back into the cars other functions (rev counter, warning lights etc.) so I've split the loom and functions. I tried to have everything plugged in while doing this! ECU now stand alone! Chassis looks naked without it Also took time to re-connect the steering column and seat to see where everything ends up compared to the track car I drove last Monday. First thing I noticed was I need a foot rest. At least that's easy to do. Excuse the hairy legs, making the most of the sunshine! Also need to mount the bias control. With the inside of the door gone I could mount this on the other side of the cage Steering wheel is a bit too far away so will need to move it 4.5" towards me. Snap off kit and a small spacer will sort it! Back to the loom - need to splice the ECU back into the harness via a plug: Spare loom is in the foreground My new favourite tool!!! Made life so much easier

Yes we should, but my build is still a way off Thanks, taking my time and trying to do it properly

Lol yes they are rusty but they're not staying on the car so I don't mind

Depends on the company running the day but BHP who were at the track were charging £20 for 10 minutes and £30 for 20 minutes from memory. The guy we hired the car from gave us free coaching since we hired the car from him. The cost of the full day use if the track also varies but for 3 of us it was about £230 Yes, my local. Never been before but will be going back!

Got to do a track day on Monday in an MB6, same one in as in the June issue of Japanese performance. This has really pushed me into wanting mine finished so I'm working with a local engine builder in the evenings and the weekends will be on the car from now on! I had a few laps tuition and drove in both the dry and pouring rain. Car had a few mods and a lot of lightning and was awesome in the wet, pretty good in the dry (just lacked power). The instructor was able to keep up with much more powerful cars on circuit by carrying so much corner speed but he's driven the circuit 1000's of times so should know where all the bends are by now! I'm waiting on a new ECU and some bits before I finalise the wiring and seal it in trunking so moving onto the fuel system this weekend. Doing a well organised track day is well worth trying. You get to see what your car can do in a controlled environment, and the company I went with did 20 minute tuition sessions which really help most people there on the day