93 Accord

Finally got some shots up of the bay at it is now.

Race?

http://www.hardrace.co.uk/accord-90-97-rear-trailing-arm-bush-hardend-rubber-2pcs-set.html http://www.hardrace.co.uk/accord-90-97-rear-lateral-arm-hardend-rubber-4pcs-set.html Soon to be ordering these! Tighten up that rear end, and gain some adjustablity. Pretty happy there is a Hardrace UK

If you are savvy about it, its not that costly to go. So you dont need to break the bank to realise dreams! Ive been twice now and the whole holiday is so worth while. Hot Stone Steaks. Mountain Roads. Roads are littered with supercar/trackcars/kit cars/racecars/historics/bikes. 102 Ron Fuel. Mindblowing scenary. Nurburgring its self. German Beer. Autobahns. Explain why this doesnt interest a car enthusiast!

Some fresh pics from the Nurburgring trip last week. Some shots from the main entrance where we were staying. Typical set of corners. [ And the Money shot... First H22a Swapped CB around the ring? That be cool if it were true! The famous carousel corner.

Took the car on circuit a while ago, not long after the swap. As a type of test/shakedown, if anything is going to go wrong it likely to do it there. I was armed with my Brothers car which was filled with tools and spares! This is me driving, early on in the day, only the second session ran with the Go Pro. Dont judge the driving, that was the least important thing at this stage, I was glad to get around in one piece!

Problem sorted, Disconnected the airbag, and then reconnected it, then went through the process again and it works. All good!

so i did this today, light goes off, when i jumped the connector then i disconect and recconect it goes out then couple seconds later comes on, but stays on. It does not then turn off after 8 seconds as usual after would. What does this mean is wrong?

Glad to help! Id start with that, if you want to keep how the top of the tyre sits in relation to the wing, maybe add a 3mm spacer. Having the adjustability is handy, but remember the toe will change too. You will need to do the tracking every time you make a change.

Can i just clear up some information here. Rear toe in / ^ \ increase stability in a straight line and under braking. Rear toe out \ ^ / decreases stability in a straight line and under braking but helps to arc the rear around the corner. OEM spec rear toe setting will be for saftey which is toe in. Setting the toe to 0 or toe out will handle better but be more twitchy. OEM spec camber settings typically have more camber at the back than the front, this is to induce understeer, as the front tyres will let go first. OP if you have -2 neg deg in the front you want the rear to have at least -2 neg deg or more at the back. Going past -4 neg deg actually starts to reduce rear grip again becuase you cant corner hard enough to use the contact patch fully. (depending on your suspension setup) Which if you want to reduce understeer, this is advantagous. check out the Touring cars stance to see this technique in action. Hope this helps

Legend! This site is great

Ill bump this as its relevant to my question. So this is related to my M Civic. I have changed my indicator stalk and i stupidly connected the battery while the airbag was out the car. When i put the airbag back in (battery off of course) the SRS light not suprisingly is now on. Can i clarifly the reset procedure from someone please?

That is a Honda crank pulley tool. Its the best £40 ive spent. None of this "you need a snap impact gun" or 1000ft barge pole to swing on. Just click away on amazon and then stick it in the hex rest it on the floor and swing on the normal 1/2 breaker bar to crack the pulley nut off. Im a race engineer for a Porsche race team, and a Honda enthusiast, this combo gets me by. As for doing another swap, I need to sit down for a while, im engined out at the moment! The last month or so ive not lived really, every weekend and some evenings have been working on this. Dont regret a milli second of it though!!

Cheers guys!! Im so happy with it, nothing sweeter than driving a car that you have built you self. All I can say is its very quick! And sounds epic! The Vtec is strong with the JDM p13. Ill report more when Ive driven it again, Ill try and get a video up too.

Before After

Updates Sports cat customised to fit. Powerflow midsection from the prelude rehangered to fit. This tool helped loads! All done, and in the bay! Looks badass, and I report that it starts and runs, no CELs no leaks, and Vtec operates as it should. There were some set backs, It initially fired on 3 only, this was diagnosed as a poor injector wire connection at the ECU end. I had to redo the CV boots as they were weeping. There was a really odd wiring thing with the wipers, in that the left indictor operated the wipers! This was diagnosed as the grounds block near the left front headlight. 2 issue to finalise are the backbox sits crooked, and the powersteering. The power steering is the prelude pipes and pump, but the belt from the prelude is not good enough, so Ill get a new belt, then I can bleed that.

Engine harness work done Vtec sub harness done H22A test fit

The car wieghs 1280kg with all the daily driving gumf ,sub/some fuel/spare wheel etc, so with that removed getting close to 1250kg. So good power to weight. Considering a BMW of a similar spec will be 1500kg to put that in to perspective.

10th of May should be fine, not been to a japfest yet so yeah ill come along. Yes it might be only 200bhp, 17bhp down on the type s, but with the mods that i can bring over from the the accord and some little extras that have been done, will be near 210-15bhp anyway. Cheers guys!

More work has been done to the H22a, and the F has been pulled. Exedy OEM clutch and Koyo clutch release bearing. Powder coated valve cover in Jaguar factory Brake caliper red. Farewell F series engine bay! F20a and H22a side by side. Current mess I have to sort!

Let the games commence.... The balancer belt! This is why you check an engine over. The spring that was sitting on the belt Water pump replaced Auto to manual tensioner swap and timing belt and balancer belt delete And on the otherside the rear main seal, the crank pulley method (D14a civic not H22a just becuase it was laying around) Before After Refreshed oil pan too. Vtec solenoid gasket done as well but not pictured that. Cracking on, just some more bits to do.

Update, been quite here, so i shall explain. The Type S motor was creating too much difficulty aquiring the relevant stuff to get the ATTS system sorted, and although it would be good, not worth the extra. So I sold the engine. Hard thing to do when i only just got it, and it was a minter too! Got good money for it, in fact it paid for the next phase... So i purchased a Import JDM 92 Prelude 2.2 which as you know come with the 200bhp H22A. So lets try again lol Out with the engine Clean up/service/prep begins Valve coving in process of sanding down, ready to be taken to a paint shop later this week for wrinkle red treatment This being OBD1 and a normal gearbox is a much easier install, and allows for further development at a later date. But first things first, gaskets, seals and belts all round then pull the F.

Cheers guys! Yeah it is amazing how just a few things can convert it into a nice car. Honda did the design, will the double wishbone suspension all round and timeless body lines, and ive just improved it further. H22a is a great motor, the Type S has 217bhp, its the most powerful H22a Honda made. Now that Christmas is gone, i can start to get into this swap. Just got a better camera with some fancy lenses too, so hopefully further pictures will be of better eye candy lol.

JDM H22a Type S Winter build time!

yeah cheers, works quite well, does make that pocket slightly small underneath but its worth it. Have finished the interior but it got dark to take final pictures, so ill take the finals in the light tomorrow, and post with the progress pics from today. Ive done a oil and oil filter change and a fresh pollen filter. Brembo blanks and EBC pads are in. Ready to hit the road fresh and minty!