Chsi Posted November 28, 2025 Share Posted November 28, 2025 Hello everybody, this is my first post on the forum and in it I'll introduce you to my car. I have bought my 1998 Civic LS 5 door MB3 about a little more than two years ago now with 114k km, its been my daily ever since, and i've absolutely fallen in love with it, having about 153k km now, and am now trying to give it the love and recognition it deserves. Unfortunately, since the car has been pretty reliable except for some minor repairs, I have almost neglected looking for bigger problems, also due do a lack of time and money. Now however, a little bit ago my entire suspension failed, all four shocks started leaking and i broke a spring, just 2 days after getting it approved for 2 more years by TÜV (yes, I live in Germany), and I decided it was time to make the car into what I always wanted it do be: a reliable daily, that is also fun to drive, but wont knock my passengers teeth out. Since in Germany it feels almost impossible to mod a cars power in any reasonable way, i have to do my absolute best to get the most out of the chassis. Initially, i planned to fix all the minor problems before going to the 'upgrading'-phase of the build, however my failing suspension has left me no choice with that. Since i didnt (and still dont) have alot of money, i have looked for the cheapest coilovers that didnt seem like absolute garbage, had some decent reviews, and had valid papers in germany that allowed me to use them with non-stock wheels (which is apparently a problem most low-budget coilovers have in germany). So, what has been done to the car? I ended up with the MTS-Street kit, in the hopes of it being a good middle ground between the Comfort and Sport variants. So far i cant really judge how that went, due to the car still not being ready for getting my new parts registered in my papers, and therefore not really being able to take it out on the roads (also, the alignment is still screwed). But it doesnt feel heaps uncomfortable, also due to me running 14 inch wheels with 185/60 all-season road cushions. Another thing im adding in the same process, so i only have to reason with Tüv once for now, are wheel spacers. I did 20mm per axle in the front and 30mm per axle in the rear, and it already helped the looks alot. After both of that is done and registered, i have a long list of some little (and some not so little) problems to fix. First of those, of course: Rust. In all the typical spots. A previous owner covered the entire underside in rubber-based rust protection, thats is now starting to rust through. Also, they never took off the side skirts for that, so the rocker panels look pretty shot, and i'm worried its almost reaching structurally relevant points in the front, also already having eaten its way up into my fender and my door mounting points, all caused by the notorious dirt trap behind the front wheels and fender. Of course i have the typical little starting rust spots at the mounting points of the rear bumper. A bigger problem however is my rear right door, that seems to have taken a hit from a previous owners endeavors, and they never properly sealed the inside door weld, so now that looks like the surface of mars too. Also, of course all my suspension parts are heavily rusting, and i intend to polish all of them down once i have the time and access to tools for it. I have already repainted (and previously de-rusted) my rear lower suspension arms, due to having to replace all the old, shot bushings in there for the new suspension (which was a rather scary hydraulic press job). While doing that, i also noticed they have the the mounting holes for an ARB pre-drilled. The rust has also made its way to my fuel lines, so that will have to become urgent soon. The long list of other little problems include: - The headliner, of course - My fog light lenses are cracked - The interior clock light has given out - My drivers floor mat has a hole - oops. - My fans only work on the highest setting, rip blower resistor - The wooden plate covering my spare wheel has a big crack, someone tried sitting on it without the spare wheel in there... - One jack mounting point is a little bent inwards (not exactly a small problem, pretty scary when its on a lift :') ) - The previous owner installed a soind system in the boot shelf, and left all the wires and screws exposed... looks horrid - They also installed a pretty ugly cheap dotted tint on all rear windows - My A/C is currently out of commission (begging its not a compressor issue) - The cheap ugly RGB radio headunit installed by a previous owner now has a broken volume knob... So after mentioning all the faults, what are the plans? I first intend to make the interior livable again, so things like headliner and A/C will be tackled first. For the headunit, i was looking for a sleek modern one that has an expandable screen, that also works when not extended, and also one that has its own android system so i can install Hondash, to connect it to my adapter. No big use for Hondash in that car just yet, but owning one just adds to the feels :)) . That combination has proven to be pretty complicated, if i want one that doesnt look like a cheap RGB-Setup, but I'd like the option to have the screen turned off while driving at night. Parallel to that i will have to tackle my rust issues. I will contact a capable welder/bodymaker to take a look at my rocker panel and tell me whether its fixable or has to be replaced for safety. All the other little spots i hope to fix by myself, except for maybe the door, because i might just need a new one. After these biggest problems are out the way, i have two things coming up: My rear bumper has a pretty significant mark from being hit, and in the front the paint is starting to peel unter the plastic bumper trim. The fix i have for that is currently locked away in my garage: I have acquired a front and rear bumper with the VTI-S kit lips screwed on: They're not actually from an MB6, so there is no headlight washer nozzle. I also got the Spoiler in the same purchase, however it didnt include the VTI-S Sideskirts, but the normal painted stock ones. All of these parts will need to be painted, because the clear coat is peeling and they are in a different colour anyways. The other thing i'm tackling at the same point is trying to install the 16mm Rover rear anti roll bar. I dont quite know how TÜV will like that just yet, but ill cross that bridge when i get to it. I have already acquired almost all needed parts for that. The bar, of which i have two, a rusted old one and a brand new one, the rubber end link bushes, the mounting brackets and mounting bushes (of which i needed to buy the Superflex alternative because i couldnt find the OEM ones). However i am still missing two critical thing: The end link rods, because i dont know the exact length i need for the rover ARB. I have found 90mm and 83mm ones and still have to measure what might work (unless somebody coincidentlly knows and can tell me?). The other huge thing im missing is the L-shaped bracket that is screwed to the underbody, that the Mounting bushing bracket thingy bolts on to. I have no clue where to get those, and if i cant find any i might have to get the measurements from an MB6 ( a friend of mine owns one) and try to get it replicated by a professional. So after adressing all the cosmetic and suspension plans, what's the drive train/engine plan? Well. Things like swapping or tuning an engine is pretty hard to almost impossible to do legally in germany it seems, due to several problems. My ECU is, as far as I'm aware, not tuneable without replacing it. In germany that could get me into pretty big trouble once someone finds out. Also, significantly changing a cars emissions without getting it registered is considered tax evasion, so uh yeah that might be a little risky as well. But of course, you cant even exactly get it registered because its simply illegal to worsen a cars emssions below the stock values. At least i get to keep my amazing d15z8 fuel milage, i guess. I also dont know how any of these regulations translate to other contries, and I am only somewhat familiar with german road laws. So what can i do? My ideas include: - a d16z6 oder d16y8 throttle body, together with slightly widening my intake manifold opening - replacing my air filter with a K&N replacement one, keeping my stock air box - Getting a d16 exhaust manifold and/or rest of exhaust system (Im considering getting a subtle but a little better looking end muffler anyways, but those can come with papers so that's fine) - Advancing my timing ever so slighlty, and then only filling up on 98 octane (which i've been doing a little bit either way) - Changing my Gearbor for an s20 or s40 one, after researching if that fits and works - If i have the money, pay a professional to install an LSD plate in there - While doing all that i'll have to tidy up my ugly rusted and chaotic engine bay that's been neglected for 27 years... maybe paint the valve cover. Tüv wouldnt be a fan of almost any of these most likely, but i will simply bank on them not checking every single engine bay parts number for a match... Some experiences i've had with the car so far: - Had a stray cat kidnap my car: - Been to the Hockenheimring (blasting Mario Cart music): VID-20250420-WA0028_1.mp4 - Seen a Miata: - Convinced someone to buy an old car: - Taken part in a classics and pre-classics navigational and regularity Rally: That's pretty much all there is to say about the car (except i have definitly forgotten quite a bit)! Even though i have owned it for more than two years now, i have still not managed to come up with a fitting name for it, but i'm sure that will change soon. Thank you to everyone's interest who has read this far. Excuse me if there are any blatant language or car-part-naming-mistakes here, english isnt my first language after all. In the end, i will most likely use this thread to simply keep tabs on what i want to do with the car, and using it hold myself accountable for finally fixing it :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiNK43 Posted November 28, 2025 Share Posted November 28, 2025 Welcome. Looks good. Always some niggle the age these are at. Looks like it's good hands and will be back to it full flory in no time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btjtaylor Posted December 1, 2025 Share Posted December 1, 2025 Welcome, and nice work so far :) For the anti roll bar - I fitted a Rover 20mm (from an MG ZS 180) unit and used the following parts, if it helps (I keep meaning to make a post about this as I struggled to find the info when I was sorting mine out). I imagine most of the parts are similar to the 16mm, according to the internet the drop links are the same, only the bushes changed to accommodate the thinner bar. 1x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar (#1 in diagram) 20mm thickness. Not available new any more. 2x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar Mounting L Brackets (#6 in diagram) Should come with the ARB above. As above, no longer available new 8x M8x16 Bolts (#12 in diagram) Part number FS108161 4x for mounting the arm L bracket to the car 4x for bushing holder clamp https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/fs108161-bolt-flanged-m8-x-16mm-multiple-applications-all-models?_pos=1&_sid=8a59d95b9&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to car (#9 in diagram) Part number RYG10035 + WC110061 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/bolt-flanged-head-anti-roll-bar-link-to-lower-arm-rover-200-400r8-400-45-zs-ryg10035?_pos=1&_sid=55e521b1c&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to ARB (#11 in diagram) Rover part number RYG10034 Honda part number 90162-SK3-000 BOLT, RR. STABILIZER LINK (M10X50) https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RYG10034 2x ARB Drop links (#7 in diagram) Part number RGD10001 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-400-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-bush-kit-rgd10001 2x ARB bush bracket (#4 in diagram) Part number EGP1714 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mgf-tf-rover-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-bracket-egp1714-genuine-mg?variant=43335747174563 2x Rear Anti Roll Bar Bracket Bush 20mm (#2 in diagram) Powerflex PFR42-515-20 Superflex 0266/20K Rover Part number RGX10017 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bushes-rgx10017-superflex-pair?_pos=3&_sid=9ed9f4d9a&_ss=r 1x Powerflex Rear Anti Roll Bar Link Bush Kit (#3 and #8 in diagram) PFR25-111 Part Number RGX10003 https://www.tegiwa.com/products/powerflex-road-series-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-kit-honda-civic-ej-ek-ballade-95-05 2x ARB end metal bush collar (not included with Powerflex kit - #5 in diagram) Part number RGX10004 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-200-400-600-45-zs-rear-trailing-arm-anti-roll-bar-collar-rgx10004?variant=44419224240291 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chsi Posted December 1, 2025 Author Share Posted December 1, 2025 1 hour ago, btjtaylor said: Welcome, and nice work so far :) For the anti roll bar - I fitted a Rover 20mm (from an MG ZS 180) unit and used the following parts, if it helps (I keep meaning to make a post about this as I struggled to find the info when I was sorting mine out). I imagine most of the parts are similar to the 16mm, according to the internet the drop links are the same, only the bushes changed to accommodate the thinner bar. 1x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar (#1 in diagram) 20mm thickness. Not available new any more. 2x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar Mounting L Brackets (#6 in diagram) Should come with the ARB above. As above, no longer available new 8x M8x16 Bolts (#12 in diagram) Part number FS108161 4x for mounting the arm L bracket to the car 4x for bushing holder clamp https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/fs108161-bolt-flanged-m8-x-16mm-multiple-applications-all-models?_pos=1&_sid=8a59d95b9&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to car (#9 in diagram) Part number RYG10035 + WC110061 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/bolt-flanged-head-anti-roll-bar-link-to-lower-arm-rover-200-400r8-400-45-zs-ryg10035?_pos=1&_sid=55e521b1c&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to ARB (#11 in diagram) Rover part number RYG10034 Honda part number 90162-SK3-000 BOLT, RR. STABILIZER LINK (M10X50) https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RYG10034 2x ARB Drop links (#7 in diagram) Part number RGD10001 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-400-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-bush-kit-rgd10001 2x ARB bush bracket (#4 in diagram) Part number EGP1714 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mgf-tf-rover-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-bracket-egp1714-genuine-mg?variant=43335747174563 2x Rear Anti Roll Bar Bracket Bush 20mm (#2 in diagram) Powerflex PFR42-515-20 Superflex 0266/20K Rover Part number RGX10017 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bushes-rgx10017-superflex-pair?_pos=3&_sid=9ed9f4d9a&_ss=r 1x Powerflex Rear Anti Roll Bar Link Bush Kit (#3 and #8 in diagram) PFR25-111 Part Number RGX10003 https://www.tegiwa.com/products/powerflex-road-series-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-kit-honda-civic-ej-ek-ballade-95-05 2x ARB end metal bush collar (not included with Powerflex kit - #5 in diagram) Part number RGX10004 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-200-400-600-45-zs-rear-trailing-arm-anti-roll-bar-collar-rgx10004?variant=44419224240291 That's an amazing list of part links! Thank you. Its especially useful, because i wasnt able to find the exact bolt specs, and wasnt aware the metal bush collar was still needed. I found these Rubber bushings new on Rimmerbros, but have not yet been able to confirm whether those metal collars are included there or not (Also, the Rover 16mm bar itself is on there for like 17 pounds, so i recommend anyone who's interested in it check it out. I think i got the last 2 of most of the mounting parts, if the listings on there are to be trusted). I am confused about one thing however. The ARB drop links here look considerably different than i had imagined them, and different from the ones i've seen before. To be fair, i am really new in the whole car scene, and especially modding a car is a thing that's hard to learn about from scratch. I tried orienting myself after this image i found online of someoney mounting their I think MG ARB on the MB Civic: Here, the used drop links look alot more like what i was able to find online. Would a setup like this work similarly, or are there core differences i'm overlooking? Because it looks like the bolts are oriented the same way. As i said, i'm new to modding and have never actually seen an ARB in person :') Thank you for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btjtaylor Posted December 1, 2025 Share Posted December 1, 2025 5 minutes ago, Chsi said: That's an amazing list of part links! Thank you. Its especially useful, because i wasnt able to find the exact bolt specs, and wasnt aware the metal bush collar was still needed. I found these Rubber bushings new on Rimmerbros, but have not yet been able to confirm whether those metal collars are included there or not (Also, the Rover 16mm bar itself is on there for like 17 pounds, so i recommend anyone who's interested in it check it out. I think i got the last 2 of most of the mounting parts, if the listings on there are to be trusted). I am confused about one thing however. The ARB drop links here look considerably different than i had imagined them, and different from the ones i've seen before. To be fair, i am really new in the whole car scene, and especially modding a car is a thing that's hard to learn about from scratch. I tried orienting myself after this image i found online of someoney mounting their I think MG ARB on the MB Civic: Here, the used drop links look alot more like what i was able to find online. Would a setup like this work similarly, or are there core differences i'm overlooking? Because it looks like the bolts are oriented the same way. As i said, i'm new to modding and have never actually seen an ARB in person :') Thank you for your help! I noticed the same thing but honestly I am not sure of the positives/negatives of each type - I think the style you show in your photo will also work fine, it's just a different design. It seems like Rover prefer the flat piece of metal and Honda use the rod type. Personally I would go with the Rover style as its guaranteed to fit but I think either will probably work OK. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chsi Posted December 1, 2025 Author Share Posted December 1, 2025 16 minutes ago, btjtaylor said: I noticed the same thing but honestly I am not sure of the positives/negatives of each type - I think the style you show in your photo will also work fine, it's just a different design. It seems like Rover prefer the flat piece of metal and Honda use the rod type. Personally I would go with the Rover style as its guaranteed to fit but I think either will probably work OK. Okay, that explains it. I think it's more of an option for me to order the Rod-type ones, since I cant find the flat rover ones in a EU-Country and the shipping from the UK would be rather expensive. I was however able to find several of the Honda-ones in OEM quality, but i'm not quite sure about the length that i need for this specific ARB. I have read somewhere that the distance needed for the Rover ARB on a Honda differs from the original Honda one, so now I'm not quite sure. I have found ones with 83mm and ones with 90mm length, and i dont know which are which because all the site shows me is the replacement part number. Do you perchance still remember the length of the ones you used, just for reference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btjtaylor Posted December 1, 2025 Share Posted December 1, 2025 37 minutes ago, Chsi said: Okay, that explains it. I think it's more of an option for me to order the Rod-type ones, since I cant find the flat rover ones in a EU-Country and the shipping from the UK would be rather expensive. I was however able to find several of the Honda-ones in OEM quality, but i'm not quite sure about the length that i need for this specific ARB. I have read somewhere that the distance needed for the Rover ARB on a Honda differs from the original Honda one, so now I'm not quite sure. I have found ones with 83mm and ones with 90mm length, and i dont know which are which because all the site shows me is the replacement part number. Do you perchance still remember the length of the ones you used, just for reference? I don't have it to hand but I will check the car next time I am with it and let you know (it's not parked at my house unfortunately) - probably at the weekend If it helps there are some results for the rover part number (RGD10001) on autodoc RGD10-001 A.B.S., ASHIKA | RGD10001 in AUTODOC 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chsi Posted December 17, 2025 Author Share Posted December 17, 2025 On 11/28/2025 at 11:52 PM, KiNK43 said: Welcome. Looks good. Always some niggle the age these are at. Looks like it's good hands and will be back to it full flory in no time Thanks! Sure hope so, at least it keeps me from getting bored of it ;) I could have lived without most of the snapped bolts though... :') 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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