Rescuing the MC2. End of one chapter, sold.

[Karjis]

Fuel rail in last picture is now machined for 14 mm O-rings. Next thing is to assemble 350 cc Injectors from Saab 9-3 SS (07-10) to intake manifold. Winter just feels that it's never ending now, last night it was -25C again.. Can't touch any plastic pieces without garage.

Those Saab injectors have similar nozzle than RDX injectors and have also high impedance, flow is just right for B18C4 with E85, and because it's saab injector, it shouldn't have any problems with E85. And just 25 euros per injector, new, unused with warranty. But we'll see how it works out.

[Karjis]

Aaaaargh

Have you ever thought that cars have black sense of humour? My deck decided to jam the drivers (LEFT!) front brake caliber so tightly that car stayed in place without handbrake almost everywhere

Problem:

Okay, It's raining, I have no time to drive to the garage which is 150 kilometers away and I have to drive more than 250km during tomorrows workday, not to mention that I have to be 300km away from my home at saturday 9am, so driving before waking up really. And even after 1km city driving, brake caliber is so hot that it can't be touched.

Solution:

Go out and use that deadly honda jack to lift the car and take the brake caliber apart and clean and get everything moving again.

And like everyone can guess.. After I got the wheel in place and tools back inside and car back to ground level.. Rain stopped. I was soaking wet and now the car is fine...

Me: and my deck:

[Karjis]

And after that whining at the last post, I have something positive to say also!

Wohoo!

Got the ITR Air filter installed.. or almost installed last weekend, it has only temporary mounting now, but it's not going anywhere. I have to say that my deck is now much quieter and as a downside VTEC sound almost disappeared. But for some strange reason, engine seems to (placebo..) build up revs a bit more aggressively from idle, poor front tires.

But actually it's nicer to use revs now because sound is not so violent anymore. And I got rid of the cone filter "BROOOM" always when touching accelerator on highway.

Now I deserved hot Sauna and cold Beer!

[NIKH25]

So is the caliper sorted then.

Good news on the itr filter.

[knight]

ITR airbox is a good mod to do! top work

[Karjis]

So is the caliper sorted then.

Good news on the itr filter.

Yeap! I cleaned most of the rust from the brake pad slides. Okay mosty below those detachable pieces. But still pads are moving freely and I forced the piston in and out for a few times, now it works fine.

Not the nicest operation to do while it's raining

I'll upload some pics for that filter installation during weekend.

[marko]

Nice job on your caliper need to do all 4 of mine they are all binding and my brakes fade sooooo fast when I boot it like on run around the country roads and I liteally have no brakes :/ think it's causing some real bad fuel consumption, which I don't mind just yet as I can't wait to fill up with shells V-Power Nitro+ haha sounds awesome even if it is just rebranded V-Power

You have any tips or trick thing you would have done differently in hindsight? Besides not doing it in the rain

[Karjis]

Nice job on your caliper need to do all 4 of mine they are all binding and my brakes fade sooooo fast when I boot it like on run around the country roads and I liteally have no brakes :/ think it's causing some real bad fuel consumption, which I don't mind just yet as I can't wait to fill up with shells V-Power Nitro+ haha sounds awesome even if it is just rebranded V-Power

You have any tips or trick thing you would have done differently in hindsight? Besides not doing it in the rain

marko:

Well, in my opinion the whole v-power concept is useless. At least in Finland V-power costs easily 5-10 cents per litre more than normal 98E5,. With really small benefits. Just save the money and do something real for your car with that money.

Do something for your brakes. You'll lose more with those brakes than gain with v-power.. If your brakes fade before you smell that something is really burning, you have water in your brake fluid. Just change the fluid. It's easy and inexpensive operation. And really more important is to change the fluid often enough than get something special fluid. Good fluids like Motul RBF 600 needs changing even more often than regular DOT 4 or 5.1. because those absorbs water even faster than ordinary fluids. (don't use Dot 5, it's not for abs-brakes!)

I literally drove my old MB3 rear disks blue on track day without significant brake fading. Those brakes smelled like burning clutch and smoked a bit. So civic 5 brakes shouldn't fade. I'll list what I had done for that.

So, my simple brake tricks

- Clean everything, open the sliding pins and clean those as well. Also from caliber side.

- Take the brake pad slides off and clean the caliber under the thin metal sheets. If those are rusty, even use sandpaper to get everything clean and smooth. Brake pads should move really easily. I mean so easily that you can remove brake pad with one finger.

- But ceramic paste to sliding pins. I use CRC Metal Free Paste that Holds up to 1400 celsius. Copper paste will escape when brakes are really, really Hot.

Front brakes:

- With all but one caliber installed in it's place. Keep one caliber off from it's place and press brake one or two times so piston moves a bit outwards. Then press piston back down and repeat.. repeat and repeat. Be careful not to let piston to pop out from caliber. When piston moves so easily that you can push it back in with just two thumbs without tools it's fine.

(If some rubber part is faulty then you should rebuild the caliber with new seals. Just remember to grease all piston seal with suitable grease before assembling. MB6 front caliber piston is so big that you can rebuild it with elbows.. no need for small japanese fingers )

Rear brakes:

- same than in front but you need to rotate the piston clockwise to get it in. Needle nose pliers are quite handy. Don't force the piston in. I recommend putting some grease between the outer seal and piston before rotating so the seal rubber won't tear. I used small screwdriver for that. Finally assemble.

Back to all corners:

- Check all bolts. But don't over tighten. You'll like to check the brakes more often if everything moves easily. Press brake some times so all pads are in place.

- Open a NEW and unopened bottle of brake fluid. After braking the seal fluid will begin to absorb water from air. Think like bottle of cola. It's fine to store it for long time but after opening you'll want to use it quickly.

- Open the brake fluid reservoir.

- Put clear hose to bleeding nut and open the bleeding nut. Let the fluid flow so long that fluid in hose is as clear as new fluid and without air of course. Remember to keep reservoir full enough so it won't get any air to system. If fluid is not flowing to rear brakes, you can pump the brake pedal slowly to get fluid moving.

- After you have done all corners just remember to put those protective rubber caps on top of those bleeding nuts.

Have fun but then brakes should work. I recommend to change fluid at least every time pads are changed. And if not driving aggressively then replace the fluid every two years. And use same tricks for clutch also. All seals like new fluid. Remember that brake fluid is not healthy and it damages paint really easily.

Whoops.. a bit long post but ask if everything is not clear.

[marko]

Wasn't expecting that man nice English too, will be referring to this once more the day before I get stuck in and get some bits swapped ready for the mot thanks

[Karjis]

Okay quick Sunday update

I got new summer tires on friday. 195/55 R15 Nokian Hakka V because got one year old but still new tires quite cheap. Much nicer to drive now.

Next Tuesday I'll get that wagon to windshield change. I got a stone to driver's side "black area" and of course there is now huge line through the glass.

I realised that my Koni Sports on front axle was on lower position. I'll try to move the locking pin to upper position next time possible to get some ground clearance. I think now that car sits a bit too low and it's a problematic to drive down from parking lots etc.

Pictures will come.. some day