Grant Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I think so long as your not stupidly low and you set up your coilovers correctly, then the fronts sit at quite a nice camber.. Mines about 1.5 degrees IIRC .. Which on the front is about right .. Unless your really wanting to get them to stand up straight .. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 At the height I've got mine set to I'll be surprised if mine is miles out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Its tyre wear i think that are most peoples concern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Its tyre wear i think that are most peoples concernTo be fair I don't want to be replacing them earlier if I don't have to, I'm not bothered about outright handling though, the combination of decent suspension parts and geo set up and tyres will be enough to let me throw the car about and still not kill off the insides first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Adding to the list of responses that all say the same, but to confirm, I've put a DC2 rack in a couple of years back and it's exactly the same lock to lock. The only difference you'll get is more easily changed inner rods, but the only problem with the MB6/MC2 inner rods is that they're pretty tough to get off but not impossible.On the MG rack, yes, the mark 2 MGZS has a faster rack & everything I've seen and read suggests it goes in absolutely fine. Finding one is not easy; the mark 2's are rare & there's a ton of racks available from earlier MGs that will fit but are the same ratio as our Ms. Someone might be able to post up definite part numbers for the post-2004 mark 2 MGZS racks??Anyways, reckon you're on the right track with alternative improvements. A fast rack on a front-engined car isn't going to help unless you've super sticky tyres or an equivalent lump of metal over the rear; the faster the steering ratio, the less precise control over the steering direction and the easier it is to oversteer, leading to lack of traction & an understeer situation in cornering. Adding stiffness with ARBs and braces is a good move. Poly'ing makes a big difference to stiffness and steering feedback, but be prepared for squeaks and suspension performance that deteriorates throughout an extended spirited drive; this is where rubber always wins & why after various tries with poly I went back to hardened rubber. Camber adjustment; definitely if dropping at all, even if only 15-20mm. And definitely, definitely get the geom sorted. I drove for months with mediocre geom, the tyre wear was awful as was the handling, even though it 'felt' better than stock was sooo much better after a proper setup. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIKH25 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 ^^^ Great info there, I knew somebody had put the dc2 rack in but couldn't think who. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 When you mention the MkII MGZS, is that the 180 version or do all the spec range share the same rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerodeckcivic Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 I think he means the facelift version @Krzys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 I think he means the facelift version @KrzysI know that, I mean does it need to specifically be the 180 or do all of the facelift cars have the same rack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 @Didjeridave great post mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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