mc2hammer

Hi all, the lower inner part of rear wheel arch on my Aerodeck VTi has some rust, which I have been aware of for a while but, on further investigation tonight, the near side has gone, i.e. it gives when you push it, the offside feels more solid. need to cut out to see how big the hole is, doubtless it will be gone on the sill section too. similar to this link (Adzvtis pics) just wondered if MB6/ MC2 are same in this area, and if repair panels are available (e.g. Rover 400 etc) , if rust is localised enough (yet to be determined) I guess patches can be fabricated and welded in. Also are there any how to guides, Roverjoe was doing a vid on his MB6 resto I believe. I had the sill front section and jacking points professionally done several years ago but the work cost a bomb then and so I think will have to tackle the rear section myself. many thanks

Just a quick update on this, the new driveshaft is squeaking occasionally which is clearly audible at low speed, reading up on this this could be due to a tight joint, but driveshaft is brand new ? I have gone back to J&R will see what they say but has anyone else experienced this ? want to change out the other side but not totally convinced re J&R (could just be unlucky) but there don't seem to be too many other options without paying big bucks for uprated ones (car is bog standard). e.g. like the ones available from The Driveshaft Shop. thanks

Just a quick update on this, the new driveshaft is squeaking occasionally which is clearly audible at low speed, reading up on this this could be due to a tight joint, but driveshaft is brand new ? I have gone back to J&R will see what they say but has anyone else experienced this ? want to change out the other side but not totally convinced re J&R (could just be unlucky) but there don't seem to be too many other options without paying big bucks for uprated ones (car is bog standard). e.g. like the ones available from The Driveshaft Shop. thanks

thanks for that. pretty sure the spare rotor arm I have has a screw hole as it is gen honda and quite old now. though I will need a new bolt/ screw to secure the rotor. dizzy bolts look quite meaty so "should" be ok. dizzy will, presumably, need marking to get timing right again when refitting, though it could prob do with the timing checking as it sounds like it is pinking under load. something else I need to get sorted, any ideas if it is not the timing ? knock sensor issue perhaps ? are there any "how to"s on this topic (timing/ tuning etc) ? I will have a look at access with air box out, but this job will be fiddly so best done on a bench. I guess a complete new/ refurb dizzy is the other option, but would like to keep the original one if poss.

sorry no pics of spam for you spam lovers, but Yokohamas good if you only need dry grip ?

Strangely no replies on this but an update, for those interested. Well I got her going and now starts fine again. I don't think anything was wrong as such, as it had been running fine, so I just cranked and tickled the throttle until it eventually caught and started. But, as well as the plugs, I did change the dizzy cap and cleaned up the rotor arm with a needle file which looked tasty. So I'm sure this all helped. I have had a new rotor arm and have been meaning to change it for some time, but not able to get old one off as bolt is seized. A common problem I believe. I have read that cutting off the rotor arm, which is just plastic largely, and getting needle nose vice grips (aka mole wrench/ pliers ) on the exposed head of the bolt is the way to go ?? Another issue is that the dizzy cap lower bolt is particularly exposed to the elements and has sheared, leaving the threaded hole in the distributor blocked. It will need drilling out carefully and re-threading/ tapping but, due to location, that looks like it has to be a dizzy out job ?? Emissions was fun again this year btw, MOT tester says cat has to be really hot and is too far back, so a new one wouldn't necessarily help. As usual, any thoughts/ feedback on any of this is always appreciated folks !

My trusty and, so far, very reliable Aerodeck 1.8Vti refuses to start :-( It turns over/ cranks but doesn't fire. Have fitted new spark plugs and checked a spark is present. Fuel pump runs for 2 secs as it should when ignition is switched on, and there is definitely pressure as evidenced by fuel present at the outlet of the fuel filter i.e. input to fuel rail. So must be the fuel injectors ??? either all faulty (hard to believe) or not receiving their control signal from the PCM. MIL is not indicating a fault code / DTC is present. I can check injector resistance but it's not going to be all four. I could check a pulse is getting to the injectors using an oscilloscope ? I am at a loss - I guess something could be preventing the PCM from pulsing the injectors, (e.g. faulty sensor) but wouldn't that trigger a DTC ? Any ideas please please please folks ? thanks

Thanks, ordered yesterday and part has arrived already, so can't fault their service. On initial inspection it looks ok, fingers crossed all will be good and will fit etc, but was assured by J&R it was the correct part for the vehicle, so can do no more than that.

thanks both, are you happy with J&R then dr_broon, you must be if you have fitted them twice, only I have read some rather mixed reviews (they seem too cheap ?). AKR Performance have TrakMotive part which costs 3.5x the J&R part but, if you reckon the J&R is ok, then I might as well stick that in and give it a whirl, so to speak. I'm hoping to fit it myself, as the job doesn't look too difficult (famous last words) ?? As per title of thread, I only have the VTi not Vti-S btw, if that makes any difference, I need to correct my profile description.

This has just happened to me. Driver's side has snapped, looks like at the damper (apparently goes rusty under them and cant be seen, and is a well known issue according to the recovery man) Found this post on the subject (link below) Looked up J&R looks like they still do them for the car. There are 3 available, 2 outers and an inner, obvsly need to replace the snapped OS one but I guess would be sensible to do the other (near) side too asap as clearly this is a weak spot and is an accident waiting to happen. do i need to do inner as well though ? for now though just want to get her running again to see if anything else has broken. shouldnt have done as it happened at low speed / moving off. and can select gears ok still. Cheers for any advice from others that may have suffered the same. It seems like it's a common issue though ? Old post I know but any update on this - I have just got an issue that the recovery driver reports as being snapped driveshaft, sounds like this damper could be the problem ? will inspect and have a look under in the light hopefully tomorrow. Just been on to J&R looks like still available, 3 parts available, inner and 2 outers, should/ do I need to replace all 3 ? is the damper just on the outers ? I'll probably do a new post tomorrow with more info

thanks for that Dexter, yes got the scuttle off ok - well enough to access under and check for the dreaded tin worm at least, roof rails are next on the list to check under the gutter trim. also would like to remove the front wings, anyone know how easy it is to get these off ? hopefully just bolts, once the various trims are removed ?

thanks both. do the front wings come off easily ? im looking at the front windscreen area at the moment, can you take the scuttle off with the bonnet in place, it seems to be held in by rubber mouldings by the hinges ? under the scuttle appears largely ok as far as I can see. for the windscreen itself , i have the two side mouldings off, the top moulding appears to be stuck though, it appears that it doesnt just unclip like the side ones ? looks like it is held in by a bead of adhesive. guessing could be screen out job to properly inspect the windscreen recess ?? the side edges of the screen were filled with muck, now cleaned out, looks like some attention needed at the at the base of the A pillar where damp has got under and lifted the body sealant. surprised no one has mentioned rear wheelarches, under the trim strips seems another spot that could go. also need to look in the gutter recess under the roof rails ? basically lift and look under / behind anything that can be removed ! keep the advice coming pls folks, it's all good stuff.

apart from this spot under the chassis by the front jacking point , and sills, hidden behind the plastic sill cover extensions, what are other common rust areas on the Aerodeck body to check / look out for ?

can you pls send me the link for the reds pls noodels, so i can check it out. Tried to check out the part number for my vehicle, but Reds do not seem to be standard EBC parts according to the EBC website ?? They seem to do every other colour though ! Are they actually genuine EBC pads ? Can they be used as standard road pads ? I also have a Vti Deck. cheers

thanks Koen, will check exhaust on accel / deccel, also planning to do a compression test. should tell me a bit more about the engine health in general. emissions are usually fine though. if it's burning a lot I would expect to see increase e.g. in HC levels, which I dont. will stick with the MTF3. fine with that, as I prob still have some left over from last change, so makes sense all round. Oil analysis is also done for older / classic cars - could be worth a go ? has anyone tried it ? also looked at use of additives, like STP oil treatment, but wouldnt risk in VTEC motor unless I knew it was ok to use. Again, all thoughts welcome ! cheers