Didjeridave

Code 41 is more likely & is you lambda (oxygen) sensor - seems these things are reaching their shelf life, loads of them going recently on C5 members' cars. Codes are here viewtopic.php?f=90&t=4268&p=53114&hilit=ecu+codes#p53114

Thought the rear lower shock mount bushing is a different width between the EK & MB, hence why the LCAs are needed (or a different bushing)??

I don't see why that shouldn't switch over to make it RHD. Tempting!

Fluid fittings are slightly different, namely that the inlet/outlet are switched; this does nothing other than make connecting the pipes a PITA. As said in the post Andy linked to, I've fitted one & can't see much difference. There might be some, but definitely not enough to warrant pulling the subframe off blah blah. I'm looking into how much modding is required to get something like the MGZS rack on. That's definitely faster, but will prob need a few bits machining to get it in; probably more than most are willing.

Loads of posts on this! In short, yes but you need to check spring rates & will need EK rear control arms as the lower shock mounts are different.

OK, the myth about the DC2 rack being faster is, having fitted one, pretty dubious. If it's faster, it's a matter of a half turn or so; definitely not the jet fighter response that was invisaged in the dream I had between evenings of swearing lots whilst fitting the funking thing. From everything I've read up on it (following a post a month or so back for a LHD unit), the MARK 2 (2004-) MGZS rack is way faster. Anyone have any experience with this? Are the mounts the same? Have I screwed up getting one cheap by not buying one before we all plunge at eBay?!

Thumbs up on your style - pro race 1.2 silver 16" et45 7j 1954516 are exactly what I have fitted. Massive bonus with TD wheels is that they are made with proper Al-alloy in the UK; no crappy few-pushbikes-chucked-in-chinese-crud. Believe me, I've run wolfrace & had 3 wheel buckles in 10 months. Not many non-CN manufacturers out there sadly.

Search 'read ecu codes' - but basically you connect a piece of wire between the two-pin connector near where the ecu is located (there's a two and a five pin conn, both blue). Turn the ignition key to on (don't start the engine) & the engine fault light will blink to give you the code.

Search 'read ecu codes' - but basically you connect a piece of wire between the two-pin connector near where the ecu is located (there's a two and a five pin conn, both blue). Turn the ignition key to on (don't start the engine) & the engine fault light will blink to give you the code.

...thinking more about this, if they were different could you not just cut the piping & use some 8mm brass compression fittings to connect them together at some point? Something like this: http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/metric-bra ... e=googleps You'd be able to get similar connectors to go from one pipe diameter to another too.

...thinking more about this, if they were different could you not just cut the piping & use some 8mm brass compression fittings to connect them together at some point? Something like this: http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/metric-bra ... e=googleps You'd be able to get similar connectors to go from one pipe diameter to another too.

Yes, a good mod; the US P72 (Integra GSR) is a slightly more aggressive tune for the B18, plus you can chip it later. Also probably the easiest ecu swap for the B18; P28/30s can also be used but you'll have to chip & install a base-mapped ROM (not a big job though really!).

Yes, a good mod; the US P72 (Integra GSR) is a slightly more aggressive tune for the B18, plus you can chip it later. Also probably the easiest ecu swap for the B18; P28/30s can also be used but you'll have to chip & install a base-mapped ROM (not a big job though really!).

The standard rack pipe connectors on the RHD hondas are a 14mm & 16mm major diameter threads, both with 1.25mm pitch. Hope that helps!

The standard rack pipe connectors on the RHD hondas are a 14mm & 16mm major diameter threads, both with 1.25mm pitch. Hope that helps!

My experience of it... I've had 17" 7Js et42 2054017 fitted. They were close, but no rubbing on stock suspension. I now have 16" 7J et45 with 1954516 with the MGZS shocks & they're nowhere near rubbing, the wheels sit flush with the arch. Work really well, though I'd like to try 2154016s with my next full tyre change. I definitely wouldn't consider altering the camber for the purposes of getting the wheel under the arch. That's not the point of adding negative camber; you do that if the car's lowered to get the wheels back near flat, not for fitting the wheel. I think you're at the limit with et40 & 7J if only because, rubbing issues aside, that's about the legal limit for the tyres sticking out from the arch. Unless you're doing silly things like stretching tyres, lower offsets are going to fail an MOT unless you get the arches rolled. Oh and you're quite right about conflicting information; every time I've been into showrooms asking for alloys they have our MB6/MC2s down as ET38-45. IT IS 55 stock! Good luck with it!

My experience of it... I've had 17" 7Js et42 2054017 fitted. They were close, but no rubbing on stock suspension. I now have 16" 7J et45 with 1954516 with the MGZS shocks & they're nowhere near rubbing, the wheels sit flush with the arch. Work really well, though I'd like to try 2154016s with my next full tyre change. I definitely wouldn't consider altering the camber for the purposes of getting the wheel under the arch. That's not the point of adding negative camber; you do that if the car's lowered to get the wheels back near flat, not for fitting the wheel. I think you're at the limit with et40 & 7J if only because, rubbing issues aside, that's about the legal limit for the tyres sticking out from the arch. Unless you're doing silly things like stretching tyres, lower offsets are going to fail an MOT unless you get the arches rolled. Oh and you're quite right about conflicting information; every time I've been into showrooms asking for alloys they have our MB6/MC2s down as ET38-45. IT IS 55 stock! Good luck with it!

Possibly consider keeping the s9b & getting an ecu with a fairly stock basemap but with the iab/rev limit altered slightly? Much cheaper than a new box!

Possibly consider keeping the s9b & getting an ecu with a fairly stock basemap but with the iab/rev limit altered slightly? Much cheaper than a new box!

Polishing is the way forward, but it takes some work to get through that yellow oxidised layer. Keep at it! Even a bit of very fine grit emery paper might be needed to get enough material removal, but too much/uneven removal will spoil the appearance & beam. Careful with powered polishing wheels on plastic! Even toothpaste gives ok results, but then that's basically mint flavoured Autosol. ...ok, it's a little more different.

I've used 'normal' flat/lipped stands with mine, the chassis bars are good for that, or if you're not removing the inner arms, the inner arm mounting. There are loads of places really & the more the better. I always use a block of softwood between jacks/stands too, prevents wrecking the jack points/chassis.

Have to say I disagree slightly; even b0ll0cking around like an idiot the temp shouldn't get up that high. Hypothetically, of course...

You'll get a slight negative camber with the MGZS shocks, this will improve traction at the expense of a little more inner tyre wear. It's not enough to totally need it, but you could also fit camber arms front and back (front probably more important as a little rear camber is preferable anyway). It's a job that's easy enough for most home mechanics. A lot of suspension centres will take the measurements for you for free as well, then only charge if you want the adjustment. I did this with mine, but with adjustable arms F&B (as well as rear toe arms) & even after a basic geom with string & tubing it's still feeling like a laser setup (or measurement at least) would be advisable.

As Noodels said, you can solve it by adjusting EXACTLY the same amount/rotations out on the drivers side and in on the NS until the steering wheel is straight. This shouldn't put the tracking out but they really should set the tracking with the steering wheel straight; pretty poor show IMO.

The first link ones don't fit stock springs & there's not much between them & the mg stuff. seem to remember they work if you chop 1cm-ish off the end of each hook.