Didjeridave

Is that to fix a CEL or are you trying to up performance?

Just this weekend fitted the Integra GSR Hardrace engine mount kit! Tight, responsive but engine noise up & vibration noticeable.

Honda dealership best bet. Had to replace some sheared front studs on mine, not too much cash at all considering prices for other bits I've had quoted. Rear bearing 'will' go at some point soon if it hasn't already; common worn part & only available as a whole, £110ish a side when I replaced mine a year or so back, might be worth the thought.

I think your fears are justified, sounds like things are bent to me & maybe you're on the right track with the subframe - rod ends couldn't affect camber, but lcas being pulled inward/outward by subframe movement would. Must have been a pretty big knock if that's the case though, that's some chunky metal to twist about, I'd expect other things to go first. Not a job I'd wish for, best of luck with it!

I'm another 10k down the road, still have this noise & have had no problems regarding it in that time; no worse, no better. Did you find any solution to the noise problem?

You need a press for this job. There are some suitable things on ebay for £60-odd, basically just a jack in a steel frame. It is possible to burn out the old rubber and then sawing through the steel outer; I've done this with small bushings with a blow torch and a bench vice, but getting the new big bush in straight without a press is tough.

Having issues with rear calipers. New rear pads were fitted (not by me!) & handbrake was ineffective, even with the cable taken all the way in. Took the whole lot off again, slackened the cable, refitted & all worked nicely, but handbrake is quite quickly feeling like it needs adjusting again (few hundred miles). Possibly the auto adjust is worn? It's a hell of a mechanism looking at the diagram! Cheers,

Having issues with rear calipers. New rear pads were fitted (not by me!) & handbrake was ineffective, even with the cable taken all the way in. Took the whole lot off again, slackened the cable, refitted & all worked nicely, but handbrake is quite quickly feeling like it needs adjusting again (few hundred miles). Possibly the auto adjust is worn? It's a hell of a mechanism looking at the diagram! Cheers,

Assume you've seen the 'paperclip method'? You can pull codes with a piece of wire!

Going by the fact that the suspension bushings/arms are the same on the DC2 GSR as our MB2/MB6, I just ordered Integra motor mounts. Possibly should have checked first, but can anyone confirm whether they're the same? Look prett much the same part in the manuals/Lings parts site. Cheers,

I followed the manual as you described & had no problems, twice in fact.

Bit of a late post, but for the records I'm now looking for new shafts after I fitted these Yonaka crap a year ago... nuf said.

As far as I can see, mountings-wise the rack, LHD or RHD will fit. Piping is probably a small matter of a little bespoke work. However, I believe the MGZS rack was only 1.9 turns lock to lock for the mark II, and that's 2004-on & definitely not £15. Point me to a £15 2004 rack, I'll buy it, fit it & report

IME £40 is pricey; assuming it's a sensor (& it most probably is) look for people breaking on ebay. £15-20 is about the going rate; I've had RR & FL go in two years & both mine were found for £15. If you haven't checked the ABS code yet, bridge the two-pin connector on pins 3 & 5 of the 5-pin connector in the passenger footwell, then turn the ignition key to ON (i.e. just before the 'start' position. The sensors are easy to replace; an hourish.

M=metric, 14=major diameter of thread, thread pitch is 1.5mm which is standard metric fine for an M14. Any standard M14 fine bolt will fit & a bit of instant gasket (silcone) helps a treat for sealing without risking over torquing/stripping. As for the magnet, that eBay one from HK looks worrying; magnetic materials are very brittle & after time & loads of heat cycles that big long protruding magnet could shatter - my opinion anyway. You will get the same effect by sticking a hefty Neodymium 'super' magnet (3-5kg holding; 20mm dia 3mm disc should do it) to the outside of the oil filter - these are a few quid & this method puts all the gunk & bits where you want it! You can buy magnetic oil filter sleeves, but these are £30-ish.

Actually, no, scrap the - I'm not shocked at all

Anyone know a cheap source for the standard manifold (2"?) wire gasket that joins the cat? Basically something that isn't £17 a.k.a. Honda price

OK, I shall rephrase: IF one were to drive at or just over the proposed 80mph top speed in fifth gear, one would be pretty much at the vtec changeover. This will probably make our cars pretty poor on mpg as and when this change occurs. Would disabling vtec help here?

hmm, 70mph doesn't vtec, "slightly more spirited speeds" do appear to. Perhaps I should wire a vtec light in...!

For any of us that use the MB6/MC2 on the motorway, having VTEC kick in at the spirited end of motorway speeds must be damn awful for mpg? Is it?? Would a VTEC-disable switch do anything or makes matters worse?

H-tune do a 2-chip socket that allows you to switch between maps if you really want to, but I agree with Rich. Your right foot has far more effect on the economy than the tuning of the engine!

Alloy diameter doesn't matter as you would chose the tyre size that gives the same (closest) diameter. You could easily go for an 18", but with ultra low profile tyres & then a really horrible ride. 16s with that tyre choice will work well, you could possibly even get away with higher profile tyres, but if you lowering at all stay with the 45 profiles.

I don't think you'll have any big problems with those. The tyre choice is slightly smaller diameter than stock, so that'll help clear the arches. ET40 is near at the limit though, they'll be flush with the arch if not borderline MOT fail for protruding. I'd suggest going up at least 2, 5 better, but unless you're lowering loads don't worry! I've got 16s et45 7J with 1954516s & they fit spot on.

Well, at least you've done some searching! This has been covered loads, but yes, stock et on the mb6 mc2 is 55 - very high. Wih stock suspension, anything below et40 can start rubbing, but that isn't down to the alloy diameter alone, the alloy width matters just as does the tyre profile. If you're unsure, post the full wheel specs that you're trying to fit & it'll get checked

...also, bridging the two pin plug flashes engine codes, abs is pins 3 & 5 on the 5 pin plug.