Didjeridave

Odd, I have that style, without the kink, fitted & have no clearance issues. I'll have to have a look!

If steering loose on rough ground I'd suggest (on top of all andy's checks) upper ball joints & bushings on the front, particular attention to the wishbones. check your tyre wear too, uneven wear gives a lot away. Rattles suggest ball joints/mounts more than bushings; worn bushings need some serious abuse before they get noisy.

I think that's definite Paul; the statement that the sound was coming from the intake was in response to the suggestion that it was the radiator fan, which is 'acoustically unconnected'. The intake pipe length is in the right region to have a resonance at ~500Hz & may well be amplifying the source, whatever that is. It could be PS, Oil pump, alternator, dammit near anything that spins! I'll have a good listen around the engine when I get at it...

I agree, it's certainly coming from the intake & by the difference in our intakes it's nothing inside the resonator or airbox; there's nothing in there that could cause that sort of sound anyway. I'll have a good listen around mine when the snow's gone & I can get back to work on it. Now that I think about it, I first noticed it when I fitted the intake & there's a possibility that it's become louder over time, but very very gradual at that; I've had the intake fitted nearly two years.

If you're referring to the pure/sinusoidal-like tone at approx 500Hz, then it's fairly normal as far as I'm aware. At least, mine makes exactly the same tone, except it's much more noticeable with my K&N 57i (I have no airbox or resonator piping). Either it's perfectly normal or there's something wrong with both our cars; second opinion anyone please?!

Failing all else, have you actually checked for trapped, high-pitched-squeaking pigeons?

Definitely is a Helmholtz-type resonator/absorber for nothing other than noise reduction. It will increase turbulence in the process, so it would be better to remove it & blank the hole if you don't care for (want) noisy intakes. I wouldn't expect much if any performance improvement & the faff of blanking off the hole with absolutely no chance of leaks probably outweighs just fitting a proper intake pipe. Right choice there Lee methinks...

Hmm, agreed the more you describe the noise it doesn't sound like anything intake related. It's very unlikely your gearbox needs oil unless damage has occurred; generally they never do in the car's entire lifetime, but that's easy enough to check; the fill nut is about halfway up on the left of the gearbox (check the manual). If the noise goes away with clutch operation, then it's a bearing somewhere; either the clutch release/thrust bearing or one of the gearbox bearings. They can sound really bad before they go completely - it's worth considering a new clutch with that job too whilst the transmission is removed. Listen around the transmission using a wooden pole pressed one end to your ear, one end around the transmission; it's really going to help if you can pinpoint the exact source of the noise.

Exhausts UK will do a custom stainless catback with a stock sound or any sound you want, though I believe they only fit them to cars directly (i.e. the systems are made-to-measure, not off the shelf for a particular model). Very pleased with mine & that was a 'subtle sports', not stock.

Put a K&N panel filter in there while you're at it! Be very careful running the engine with no filter, the intake makes for a pretty effective vacuum cleaner & you really don't want muck going up there. If you take the filter out, I'd suggest stretching an old t-shirt across the middle of the airbox in place of the filter whilst you're testing. Those black odd-shaped pipes are just resonators/dampers; they are designed to reduce sound whilst allowing air to freely reach the intake. You can run the car without them fitted at all. There's a chance they could be blocked with something, but otherwise there's very little that could be wrong with them. It would help if you could exactly pin down the source of the noise - I do this using a piece of hosepipe held to one ear & point the other end around the engine bay. Admittedly the neighbors probably wonder...

What year is your car? Fault 18 means left rear wheel sensor on some MAs, which is a far more likely fault.

Cheers Phil. Wider tyres will be on the rear, not front. I'll give it a shot. A decent pair of 195s might be up for geabs soon...

Found that 19545 / 21540 is the combo on the MGTF & they're 4mm difference - with worn down fronts & near new rears there's more than that between front & rear right now! Will give it a shot, if it's awful I can soon enough change the 195s.

Good point & good thinking there! I was only considering alignment & handling.

Need new fronts whilst my 1954516 rears are near new (7mm). Wished I'd put 20545 or 21540s on & with the chance thought I'd try putting the good rear 19545s on the front & 21540 or even 22540 (7j alloys) on the rear. Thoughts appreciated

Had a look, the ground wire to chassis is fine & the wire to the ecu has 5V potential. The sensor tested fine again, nearer 4k this time but it was a warmer evening. Ecu has been reset twice & it still returns after a few minutes. Damn annoying! Any ideas before I chuck a new sensor at it? Cheers.

Both will fit. Mk2 would guarantee a newer part (2004), that's about all that's in it.

hmm, Turbo. Did I say that last year? That & I should really get the bodywork tidied before it rots...

£40's about average IME.

those are fine for after market alloys; i.e. wheels needing tapered seat the colour's a matter of choice I spose

aye, looks like a date one evening with the multitester is on the cards. Cheers guys!

Managed to get at this today & the sensor was measured at 5kOhms with a cold engine. No mention of the correct value in the manual, only the gauge sensor. I guess it'd test as an open circuit if it had failed, so looks like it's hours of wire testing Unless there's any other ideas from anyone?

M12 coarse, which is 1.5mm pitch, same for the vast majority of Hondas. Also make sure the seating is the correct profile; my MC2 standard alloys needed a spherical/dome seated nut whilst my Team Dynamics alloys took a tapered seat nut.

A bigger pump will certainly give higher volume velocity (i.e. flow/lph) & thus increase pressure at the end of the pipe/nozzle input, but it may well be cheaper to widen the piping & you may see satisfactory improvement without having to engineer in a different pump. For a spray system like this, you ideally don't want any restriction until the nozzle, so piping needs to be as wide and as short as possible to reduce pressure losses - 6mm OD piping is pretty restrictive; try blowing down a length of a few meters & you may appreciate this!

agree, working when you slam it suggests dodgy connection somewhere. What resistors did you use?