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ZS saloon and hatchback have the same suspension. Read here: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showpost.php ... ostcount=7 But I recommend you buy ZS 120 suspension. Read this: viewtopic.php?f=56&t=10719

Go for a cold air intake. One of the best is the Iceman cold air intake because it's made of plastic which doesn't absorb heat like aluminium. Colder air is best for D series. But the price is big If you don't want to spend that much you'll be fine with any CAI they are more or less the same thing. ITR airbox is another great way but to use it to the max you have to port the intake manifold and go for a bigger TB.

Don't listen to them - be different We have to see some new mods, which are rare on M's

Nobody knows ? EDIT: First problem solved. The speakers were scratching the mirror when closing... Now I have to change them again EDIT2: Second problem solved too. The soldering of the alarm's relay was ruined.

Front: Solid or Vented: V No of Holes/Bolts: 4 Diameter (mm): 262 Height (mm): 45 Thickness New/Min (mm): 21 -- 19 Rear (if not drums): Solid or Vented: S No of Holes/Bolts: 4 Diameter (mm): 239 Height (mm): 48 Thickness New/Min (mm): 10--09

My codes are the same. But I have blue and white on front and blue on rear. DC2 suspension looks nice bit it's too low for me.

For mini-me you need camshafts and rockers, injectors and ECU from D16Z6. You can swap the intake manifold too, it's supposedly better than ours. Don't just swap the head. Read those topics viewtopic.php?f=52&t=10065 viewtopic.php?f=86&t=7934

These are common problems I heard. The first one is with the driver's electrical mirror. When I close the mirror if I don't pull it to the inside of the car it closes like this: The second one is with the central locking. By the knob it locks and unlocks with no problem. With the alarm it locks but can't unlock. A little video: Q2txSTHm978 So what I have to change to fix those problems ?

I will try my luck, it's 8 pounds + oem tweeters so got nothing to loose

Jimmer, here's a good offer for ZS 120 springs - 20 pounds. I won't be able to buy them so ignore my post in the thread. http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=481359

wow You have done every possible mod, haven't you Your's from mk1 right ? The one on mk2 looks wider than this on mk1, that's why I'm asking.

You must be tired of all ZS threads So anyway will a MG ZS MK2 ash tray fit M's ? I know mk1 fits but the mk2 looks wider http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/R ... 020941.jpg p.s. something's wrong with the img tag.

Awesome thread mate. By looking at your photos I can say I have the same drop despite having a MB3. Mine looks like this: Two years ago someone on the forum said that ZS 120 springs are the same as MB6 so we should use ZS 180, that's why I got mine but this theory is wrong. I'm looking to buy ZS 120 springs for the front but no ZS's in Bulgaria and no springs for sale in ebay :/ For now I don't want to buy complete shocks with springs. I think MB's with zs120 setup will be perfect Also I don't have patient to try swapping the upper wishbones like ZS's to see what will be the effect but I'm still scared I will mess something out p.s. What does FYI mean ?

I don't think anyone on here has ZS shocks on nonVTI MB or am I wrong I think the best way is with front ZS 120 springs (the rears for zs120 and zs180 are the same) but I can't find zs120 springs to test this theory.. But if you want lower then zs springs is a no go.

Oops I meant ATR. I always thought that those aftermarket smaller wheels are better for handling I haven't driven a car with one but if I need to turn it more that means I will be almost like driving a truck MB3 steering rack is even worse than MB6.. About MOT, our "MOT" here is a joke. I'll give you an example - VAZ-2101 (Russian car) from 1972 with no handbrake and only front left brakes work passes MOT...

Can't decide what to do, so I decided to use the option on the forum for the first time - poll Advantages of the aftermarket one: Better for handling, quicker response, more leg room Advantages of the OEM one: More protection - Airbag I know my best bet is the ITR Momo wheel but I can't give that kind of money for a steering wheel. So is it right to give up from the best protection in the car that can save my life to buy an aftermarket steering wheel ?

Isn't a LSD better than a little more acceleration

I think we are making a mistake here. My opinion is that we should all use MG ZS 120 suspension. Here is a happy user with MB6 and ZS 120 setup: http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic/11 ... ocks-help/ Nobody on here though have used zs 120 suspension That's just an idea to make you even more confused

Mine are exactly like this, white and blue on front and just blue on rear. Thank god they were fine because to return them from Bulgaria would have cost a lot.

Good question The front discs had a ~ 2 - 3mm edge so they had to be changed but the rear ones were perfect. I changed them because I wanted everything to be new. The worst part is I gave them away almost for free.

Okay it's the pads ! So don't buy TRW.. Now I don't know what to do - to play it safe and buy Mintex from here (loooots of postive reviews by friends) or buy Aekbono from johnbankshonda which should be better but there's the element of surprise Also the discs have to be re-grounded which I heard it is not very wise thing to do.. And that's the answer from EBC Hi Our discs are made in an OE quality material in England i suggest that the problem is the pad material looking at the picture i would say you should get new discs as they are badly scored and will affect the new pads our pads are generally very kind to the discs i suggest you take this up with TRW

Okay, thanks for the info mates. I must see a mechanic. Even if I found out that the calipers are seized can't do anything myself. At least for now I don't have a problem with stopping power. I didn't understand the last two posts, I'm not that good with your language

Actually I don't know how to find out

I hope you didn't literally mean reachin top speed This was the scariest roller coaster ever I did 3 runs 100kph - 0kph. I didn't want to do more because I hate abusing my car and it started smelling like rubber a lot. Did a stupid video at the last run 8ZzZyr9KlsE And that's how all the discs look after the braking

Took it to a service center today. And they told me after some time the pads will bend and the noise will disappear. I doubt that, I've covered 8400km in 1 year and some months.. Also they told me that the pads are eating the discs unevenly which is really bad. I'm ataching a picture can you tell me is this normal ? 150 pounds spend on pads and discs for nothing