ryan..

so i'd need to buy axel stands with a V shaped plat form rather than normal ones then?

I've been searching on here and the net and im yet to find any useful info about axel stand placement on the MB Civics. I've always been under the impression you use parts of the chassis for it but a thread I found shows it using the jacking points Anyone have a definite answer of where to put them?

Does anyone else suffer really badly from condensation? My vti-s is quite bad for it and ive noticed it getting really misted up, even when just washing the car. It was budding me so I bought this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390360378213? ... 1439.l2649 Placed one on the parcel shelf and one (when the car is sat over night etc) on the dashbord. Just washed the car and not a hint of condensation They seem to help when driving too, I just have the one on the parcel shelf then but the car doesnt mist up as bad. So, if its bugging you and you want a cheap quick fix (rather than replacing the seals etc) Give something like those a go

mine gave up completely. They started getting slower and slower till (on the day of its MOT but before the replacement motor assembly had turned up) it stopped completely. Replacing the entire assembly is a doddle (3 nuts iirc) BUT go to a honda dealer and buy replacement screw things which hold the scuttle pannel on as you wont remove them without breaking some

do you mean the first option on the stalk? if so, thats what they are ment to do

ignition switch behind the barrel? This can give the signs of immobilizer faults. Also poor connections on the battery, fuel pump relay in the drivers kick pannel can all give weird problems

you will defo get them in that size im sure, i use 195/45/16

Uniroyal rainsport 2's ime they have been better for me than the following tyres; Pirelli Pzero nero Avon ZV3 Goodyear Eagle F1 Toyo Proxies PX4 Toyo Proxies T1-R Cracking all rounder tyres and good on the wallet too

could be the switch which is attached to the barrel but it does sound like a faulty barrel

tyre stretch = fail imo Its not safe, tyres are designed to fit on X width wheels, not ones much wider than that. Also, are the wheels 4x114.3?

The problem with these things is it could be a whole number of things. It wont cost much to completely replace the earth lead. That way you know 100% its not corroded inside the cable As a general rule: 12.6v is float voltage for a 12v car battery 14.4v is with the engine running (this can change depending on what the alt is upto though) You will see drops to about 11v when you initialy turn the car over as it does draw quite a bit of current. The best thing to do regarding battery voltage is do a few checks over a period of time. Check it with the engine running and all electrics off (stereo, heater, lights etc etc) Turn the engine off and keep checking it and watch the voltage drop till it settles. Check the voltage after its been sat for about 3hrs or more If its dropping really fast when you switch the engine off then its a sign it might be on its way out. If it drops below 12v then you need to give it a really good charge to try bring it back to life

nice rocker. I looked into getting mine done in pirates black but was told you cant get the paint which would withstand the heat.

ive got hid's in my fogs but they aren't the oem fogs. The h3 hid bulb is slightly longer than a halogen and also has wires coming out the back of it. Unless you start drilling holes in the back of the foglight it wont fit but also the bulb part wouldnt fit in the light housing its self either. Look at philips, if you want to spend decent money I had some PIAA xtreme white bulbs and they were very bright

you must have a rare one chap as all the others are H3 The problem is you wont fit HID bulbs in the oem foglights

if its wet and you put a current through it then it will not be healthy. You can try to dry it out by putting it in an airing cupboard for example

taking the switch out is a 2 second job so remove your current instrument pannel dimmer switch and check that fits ok. Also have a rummage around under the car in the area where the pump will be and see if there is any un-used plugs. If not you will have to make your own loom i guess

To start with one of the washers is missing its cover. The bottle you have there is an entire washer bottle. The top pic is the pump for the headlights, the 2 smaller ones are for your front and rear washers so you can use your current ones to replace it. It does appear you have everything but does your car have the right bits on the look for the washer pump and button?

you WILL need to undo the 4 bolts which hold the front crossmember on the car. You can remove them, just undo them so you can pull it forward. Reason for this is the lights will not come out of the car with it in place due to their shape

passenger side footwell. Just by the bottom left corner of the glove box, reach behind the plastic and you will find a plug

1. stop wasting your money on 99 octane, it makes no difference on the VTI so an MB2 will have no chance of it making any difference. 2. Give it a service, always first port of call with poor mpg

i got some from ebay for a citroen c2 iirc. Nice mist, work much better than the honda ones

you know fuel prices are rising so £20 now gets you less than £20 a few months ago. DONT look at how many miles you get from X amount of money. That makes no sence. You need to look at the number of litres used The air filter will lower the mpg a bit but you should get mid to high 30's. When was the last time the car was serviced? Thats generally the first port of call for poor mpg

few new pics added to my project thread

just re-post it mate its not 1/5th The 500 thing is a rumour. Its more like 1500 mb6's, 600 ek4's and 200-300 mc2's

Hertz aren't popular in the main stream but in audio circles they are very well regarded