DeLaSoul

See what happens what I try and start the car and the headlights just flash lol. Should be okay, just a lot of wires. I did forget to when I took the harness off the engine, took me a while a day later to label up all the plugs. I will make up the loom from the engine to the ECU with some slack, cut 1 wire at time and fit the plug, then put the engine back in the car, simples oh yes

I was looking to do a wiring tuck on the engine while everything is out and found the rywire web site - but I'm b****red if I'm paying $1000 for a wiring harness on a cool quick disconnect. £70 for the connector, some hours swearing at a soldering iron and jobs done. I have to rewire the harness into the engine bay anyway as the wires had to be moved from their original locations to clear the roll cage. While I'm at it, I can remove all the bits from the harness that's no longer required like central locking, electric windows, sunroof, AC etc. etc.

Lol, no - you said "something to config wiring" It's actually off a Tornado fighter (so I'm told) Got to be worth 5bhp

Correct, Mil Spec connector to be exact. Wiring is one job I do like doing so I'm going to rewire the engine to a quick disconnect like a rywire mil-spec harness

Would just be happy to have her back to being a "drivable car for next year" let alone "car of the year" I called into Hond-R last night to have a chat about the car and what to do next and they had a 4 dr Civic (EK?) with a K swap being done. Excellent work but I said "why do a 4dr with a K-Swap? It's a lot of work on a car like this", to which I got a funny look and told "and you're doing what to your aerodeck?" I' m hoping this will be at the very least a cool track day car with all the work going in, at worst it will be a talking point at car meets There are a lot of parts not going back into the car, which I must get round to selling off soon as they are taking up space in the garage - so I am kind of breaking her up I know what you mean on being able to carry spares etc. Last years trip to the ring saw me take clothes, tools and some basic spares over with me and that filled the boot. Coming back I had two passengers, their luggage and camping gear loaded to the roof and she plodded along all the way back to the UK no trouble. Couldn't ask any more of the old girl Few more bits have arrived - anyone care to guess what this is for:

At least 2 weeks. Probably a bit more as I cheekily asked them to do a few other little jobs like fill in the holes in the bulkhead, cut away the inside of the doors and mount the battery tray in the rear passenger foot well. I'm in no rush, they have said they would try and take pictures during the work I would love to be there to help them with the work but I have to go back to work and couldn't bear to take an angle grinder to her - I'm not that brave I love these bits of info, pictures help too Cheers. You can't wait??!?!?!? I've already chewed my fingernails off lol

Didn't know that. Will be a few months until I can afford to do the engine anyway but I will bear it in mind I will need to reset the ride height that's for sure, but I think she will need new springs as the corner weights will be a mile off. Nothing I can do about it now, car is with the roll cage fabricators Hate towing but the Nissan made it quite easy in the end. At least I don't have to do this again for a few weeks

Few kg's. Going to weld a panel in the roof for now to fill the gap. I took all the glass up to Plastics 4 Performance on Friday so they can make perspex copies. Every little helps Once the cage and seat are in I will stick her on some corner scales as I am willing to bet the springs will be a mile off

Car is now ready for tomorrows trip up to the roll cage fabricators. Last little jobs done, and took the sunroof assembly out single handed which is not a job I wanted to do. Start by taking out all but the corner bolts. Loosen them off ready for the next step. Make sure all the wiring is unclipped and hanging free Fix a set of cargo straps under the roof mechanism ready to hold the roof up once released and un-bolt one side and then the other side - roof rests on the straps I then undid the straps and lowered the roof into the cabin, then lifted the entire mechanism out through the boot Just a few odds and ends to remove/tidy up but not much. Time to go watch the Grand Prix

Naz (weetec) has posted some info on the C5 facebook site showing that the ports on the skunk 2 are same as itr so don't match c4 ports AEB is a correct port match, not sure about edelbrock but there is someone on here with an edelbrock making great power, kenny_tmt:http://www.civic5.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=9341&start=80 Cheers mate, I remember seeing it - good info. Skunk 2 do several versions of their intake (as do Edelbrock et al), one specifically for the C4 engine (which I think is the same as the US spec C1/GSR head?) The C4 is the odd one out of the B18C heads with the AEB, but a simple upgrade would be to drop a B16A1 head on it and use an ITR intake. If my memory serves me well, the B16A1 head is a machine ported version of the B18C6 (which was hand ported) and is a fraction of the cost. I have two local engine builders I trust that can port the head to match the intake/exhaust manifold, so I would just need cams to suit. We will see, nothing set in stone on the engine build just yet so plenty of time for some surfing for ideas Any links are appreciated though

I had the tool which was easy to use but just took time. Used loads of soapy water and the blade just slid through. Long knife also came in handy I will get a pro in to refit the glass, I really don't want to do it and risk breaking any pieces. It's going to be noisy! I was a little miffed tbh as the Circuit II was supposed to be for someone my size but at least I've found out before the mounts get fitted to the car. That said, the new seat is just as cool to look at I had a few plans but it keeps changing. I have the new manifold that I wrapped ages ago, and I need to change that bloody intake manifold!!! It was a git to get off and I think a Skunk 2 or Edelbrock unit would be much nicer. We'll see how the budget goes over the next few months, but I must have shaved quite a lot of weight off the shell so I won't need silly power upgrades

Really comfortable, can't wait to try it Still going to need a quick release steering wheel to help me get out of it though! Yeah, just a bit! Bought a window seal removal tool and cut the sealant away, still a pig to pull out though. Cracked the corners of the screen but as it's bonded it didn't really do much.

Slow work this week, but she's now ready for the cage. Might try and take the engine out over the weekend if I get time. Windows now out But managed to break one with only 3 inches of sealant left Screen out too So as I had some spare time today I started to clear the bulkhead of pipes and mounts. To make it easier I took the intake manifold off and all the wiring on the engine Now on the bad side - seat arrived and it was too tight around my thighs and shoulders to be comfortable. Quick call to Gareth at GSM and we went through other possible options. He managed to overnight me a slightly larger seat in the form of a Corbeau Revolution XL which is a perfect fit for my fat a*s

Little bit of work today and moved the car under cover to make taking the glass out a little easier OEM mess in the corner of the engine bay Master cylinders gone ABS pump gone and back on her wheels...looks like I could park a bus under those arches

Hubba Hubba Hugger, Hugger you mean. More chance of falling out of your misses How would you know ? I would think there is a little more give in a carbon/grp seat? I had a go in a DC5 with Recaro Pole positions recently and they were very comfy, amazing how much more you feel fro the chassis in a decent seat

I've gone for a Sparco Circuit II seat with sparco side mounts. Should be here next week so I can have a play fitting it to the car. I have looked at a few second hand ones on the bay, and to be honest there are quite a few good deals on there but I didn't find any recently that I wanted. Loads of Recaro's though from Evo's and a few from ATR's that would go well in an MB/MC but I need a fixed seat. Can't wait for the postie to deliver this on Monday!

Please have that stance Better get modifying then

Cheers mate The RX was in excellent condition, tiny bit of rot on the front wings but I had sourced brand new ones for it. ce la vie. I can remember the old Volvo's in the BTCC back in the day. Hoperfully mine will look better than that (certainly won't be as quick)

Not a stupid question, but it is one I hear all the time. End goal is track day car/sleeper. Main idea to go this far with it was after my trip to the Nurburgring last year. So funny that a reasonably well sorted Civic was able to take on M3's in the twisty stuff, it did give me a good laugh. Above all else though I want the car to be 150% safe! I've done 95% of the work myself so it hasn't been as bad as people think to do, and I've spaced it all out over the last 2 years. I was lucky in that my dad was involved with every local main dealer, big garage and motorfactor in the area so I've done well on most parts - the rest has been through luck and doing deals where possible. Real costs however are to come, as the roll cage and decent seats/harness are expensive. Once they go in, the interior will be resprayed matt black and the car project will be "parked" until next March/April. This isn't my first project of this type, but it is the furthest I've ever gone with a car. I did a Toyota ST162 Celica 12-15 years ago, full suspension, brakes and decent engine build and a Mazda FC3S RX-7 6-8 years ago which was bare shelled and roll caged. Okay, the RX-7 never hit the road as I had to move house/job at the time and I had nowhere to work on the car so it went. Scary part is that the RX went right around this stage of the project where I am with the Civic This one is going to turn out better, and get back on the road!!!! And so far my biggest nightmare. People I've spoken to have been either been very much for or dead against pedal boxes. No one in between and it scares me a little. I think that it's down to personal driving style and in some cases experience. I know that if I get the balance of the brakes and the setup wrong I could end up spinning off the track into a tyre wall so I will be taking a silly amount of time to get this part right

Pedals are about 4"-5" further back than stock, but when they do the cage they will position the seat to match the pedals and then adjust the column. Should be okay but it is way back from original. Not sure on this. I was planning on moving the fuel tank long term so I would need to get access to if through the tailgate. I can look at this long term though. Yes, something that is easily done. Might have to go for a "fixed" column and extend the shaft. Worst case I use a long steering wheel boss.

oh dear, I'm away for 5 minutes and it all goes to pot I hope I don't have to lose any weight, do you know how long it's taken for me to get to this level of tonnage??? Okay, bit more work on the car today, getting closer to the goal Out with the pedals and the brace around the drivers legs, Had to bolt the column back up to keep it out of the way, but I finally managed to get the heater box out - pipe clips in the engine bay were the biggest issue Test fitted the new bits View from the other side Put the old pedals back in to see how much further back the news ones will be And I'm not looking forward to sorting this lot out

Wish I could weld like that - mines started to go around both arches the same as yours and I'd like to do all the work myself. Great work - keep it coming

Hi, I've fitted the full kit to my car a while back (including the top mount bushes). If you already have after market LCA's then you shouldn't need those bushes, not sure on the Meister R setup, it they came with the top mounts then you shouldn't need those either. Kit is fairly easy to fit, instructions are rubbish from memory, but it's easy to work out. In terms of handling, it did tighten up the responsiveness of my car, but then going from old bushes to new harder bushes will do that anyway . Remember to use loads of the supplied grease unless you want the car to sqeak every time you go near a bump. If you want advise on getting the old bushes out of the arms then let me know. I used a sharp drill bit, metal saw, large flat bladed screw driver and a hammer but I am told you can do it on a BBQ if you are patient enough Dave

I'm using an old gasket scrapper and a rubber hammer. It comes off in large chunks with a bit of persuading , leaving a little bit of crud behind. I then use a blow torch to heat it and wipe the residue away. Took me most of Saturday to get as far as I did before my back started giving out so i called it a day. By next Saturday I should have the last of it out. Cool idea (no pun intended) on the freeze spray though, didn't think of that

Sounds painful lol. I've done a few cars in the past so learnt a few tricks along the way. Well worth doing though, car feels some much nicer to drive afterwards. Fair guess, will let you know once it's all out. Taking the seats and all the sound proofing up front has shaved a massive amount. Plans to shave quite a few more kg's are coming, but I don't want to spoil the surprise just yet