DeLaSoul

Brief update - cage is finished!!! Still lots of small jobs to do before I can pick the chassis up but it''s looking good so far. Starting at the business end, seat rails for driver (and possible passenger ) are in. You can just about see here the cage is also welded back to the B pillars Dash brace and steering column mount is welded up, even managed to keep the steering wheel tilt for extra adjustment Rear seat pan cut out to mount fuel cell. New tray dropped through to be welded in and edges fitted so a bit of work left here to do Lots of triangular goodness going on And finally the A pillar fillet plates are in and welded solid Now itching to get the chassis back and into paint!!!!

Mine has never hit the floor, but i'm not that low. I plan on running a few curbs on track, don't want to damage the exhaust in the process Good man Also my 4-1 is loud, you wouldn't want to fail the noise limits on tracks Ah, but does your VTEC Go BWAAAAAAAHHHHHH!

Don't ask, don't get. No worries, PM'd you back

Looking good. I hate doing bodywork, never looks right until the last coat of paint goes on and then it shows any bits you miss! I'll leave mine to the bodyshop

Mine has never hit the floor, but i'm not that low. I plan on running a few curbs on track, don't want to damage the exhaust in the process

4-2-1, after seeing a few 4-1 systems hit the floor I wanted to be safe

I will have loads of bits going up for sale once the chassis is back. I have tried to remove every part of the car carefully just in case I either: a) need to put it back on for some reason or get to sell it I take it you are after the high pressure feed line with the plastic fitting at the tank end and screw in fitting to the fuel filter at the other? Sure we can sort something Tank is in solid condition, actually one of the few pieces I have in the garage! Like being hit by a slice of lemon, wrapped around a gold brick

How? They were in so much debt and they now want to change it?!?!? Hopefully there will be an update on GT5 http://www.bridgetogantry.com/2/index.p ... t-the-ring 'Tis only resurfacing apparently- the German words with metre figures next to them are existing sections of the track and a indication of the length of the new surface. I am suprised they can afford it though- perhaps it's in secret preparation for turning it into a car park/retail units/ business park a la Brooklands . Good idea to use the fuel tank to drop the COG, I think the level of detail on this build will pay big dividends in the end result. Ahhh, that makes more sense. As long as they use decent tarmac then it should still be good, but I hope it isn't preparation to make it into a shops etc!

I just want it back now so I can get everything painted! Work is quality though. On the welding I asked what type they used - cage to cage is TIG, cage to car is MIG. I was lucky as there was very little left in the tank when I dropped it off the car but I can see it being a pain to refit. I had trouble removing the filler neck pipes from the tank How? They were in so much debt and they now want to change it?!?!? Hopefully there will be an update on GT5

Small update as the fabricators are still busy with race team cars coming up to the start of the season. Picked up the outer case for the fuel cell in the week and taken up to the fabricators. I thought it would be okay on the rear bench but it stands out a bit too much A bit of swearing later and the old fuel tank was ready to drop off the chassis Old tank is 55l, fuel cell will be 45l but there's not a huge amount of difference in size So now they have to cut out the floor and droop the fuel cell through. They will use box section around the hole to stiffen the chassis back up but at least the cell will be lower to drop the C of G. Chassis is certainly stiffer and the cage isn't finished yet! Car is certainly in good company, old group A Prodrive scooby being "refreshed".

I would call the relevant people to make sure these fit but I believe these were the ones I bought were: Trailing arm bush - http://www.vtecdirect.com/online/cgi-bi ... 5-XE9-S0N0 Energy suspension bush kit - http://www.tegiwaimports.com/energy-sus ... 6-00-3215/ I can't find the link to the toe compesator bushes I used but there are plenty on eBay, just need ones for an EG/DC2.

I fitted my Energy Suspension bush kit to my MC2 over a year ago and have had no issues. The only bushes it doesn't come with are the rear trailing arm and the rear toe links so I went Mugen arms and found aftermarket ones for the links from Hond-R. I believe Energy do make a set for the trailing arms though. Just make sure to use plenty of grease to stop it squeaking and get the alignment checked once your finished. Instructions were rubbish but they weren't hard to do. HTH

Hi Mike, Welcome to the club I looked at K swap and H2B on my Aerodeck. K swap can be done with one of the EG swap packages, but no one I spoke to was sure if the power steering pump would fit under the bonnet (I would lose the belt driven pump anyway and go with an electric unit). I watched my local garage do a K swap on an EH with the same problem. Cost is one problem, B18C4 is worth 1/3 of the K lump plus you need all the gear linkage conversion, gearbox, driveshafts, wiring, mounts and custom parts to fit it all in. H-Tuned do a good guide to the main parts you need and is worth a look (free download). H2B is cheaper, and there are a few H22A7 units kicking around eBay etc. Easier to do as the H series spins in the same direction as the B but I've heard rumours (not confirmed) that the angle the engine end up at in the engine bay can mean oil starvation when driven hard. You may be able to overcome this with a baffled sump but I don't honestly know. I also believe you can use your original gearbox, linkages and drive shafts with this with a bell housing adapter. Going turbo/supercharged B18 is the cheapest and easiest route and has been done on so many cars there is plenty of info out there. With any build I would 110% recommend an engine refresh (head gasket, all seals, water pump, belts etc.). I've seen B18's pull 300bhp with no problems on a properly built engine, and the stock box is pretty strong if properly maintained. If it were me going boosted though I'd go Eagle con rods and Cosworth or Crowler pistons with a girdled crank (B18C6), but I'm fussy Anything is possible, depends on your pockets and patience! I've even seen a supercharged small block V8 Chevy engine crammed into an MX-5! If you do go K20 it'll be one hell of a project Dave

some really sexy stuff going on here.... theres another thread getting together some interest in hiring an airfield or a track for the Civic5 owners, you should come, then we could all drool at this in shock and awe viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11821 They do track days at Dalton Barracks (old RAF Abingdon site in Oxfordshire) one Friday a month, I want to go there first as a) its fairly close to me, I learnt to drive there when I was a lad many moons ago. Be a while before the car is track ready yet though, I only ordered the fuel tank yesterday and it will take a little while to build Why not, see if all this work has made a difference !

Oh yes, I need them! Can't get out of the car without holding on to them I'm keeping the door bars, they are already soft without the inner metalwork so I don't want to remove any more. I couldn't tell you if it's TIG or MIG, I'm useless at welding. All I can say is the quality is amazing. I like white as it was also Honda's racing colour and easy to paint/touch up. Not that bothered about the Type-R crowd but I see where your coming from. I was a little against the M chassis myself due to the Rover link until I got my hands on this one. I'm edging toward Gunmetal anyway. It should work well with Bronze wheels. Pedal box is weird, and I can't use it wearing normal trainers. I've bought racing shoes as they are softer and narrower, my feet now fit on the pedals without catching the edge of the others. I have a pic somewhere of another deck at the ring in black but with standard VTi rims. I like the original silver but with all the work I fancy a change. As I've said before though, I will probably change my mind several times before I get to the bodyshop and again on the day. No plans for any underbody trickery. The fabricators offered to cut out the spare wheel well so I could run the exhaust up the middle of the car. I've asked them to leave it alone for now, they've cut enough off the chassis Can't weld, don't know! Rear diffuser I can see that helping a bit, no plans to though. Guys at carbon mods are really helpful, I've eh....... spoken to them about some "other" stuff Don't even go there. I studied Aeronautical Engineering at Uni and I hate that stuff, gives me nightmares even today

Another roll cage update. They re checked my seat/pedal box positions ready to weld in the rails and mount the pedal box. So close now Pedal box Corner triangulation, cage goes through the bulkhead to the front shock towers Seat in the car, comfortable once your in They have still got the drivers hoop x braces to go in and the cross bar/steering column pick up to do then they can finally weld everything in and tie the chassis back to the cage. Must admit it wasn't the easiest task getting in and out but having the roof bars helped

I've been slack lately and not kept up with your build and wow! Lots gone on! As far as I remember, you only set the injector pulse width with the ECU control. Higher fuel pressure should inject more fuel for the same given pulse width (ignoring the flow limit of the injector). The job of the FPR is to maintain the pressure given high or low fuel requirement. Modern cars monitor both to optimise fuel delivery, but I can't remember if the older car do. It'll be a case of setting the fuel pressure and injector pulse in combination, but a good tuner can do that.

Given the snow where I live, power is nothing full stop!

Very true, but I still want a little more

Yes to the baffled sump, also want a girdled crank (or a whole C6 lump would be nice). Engine will have to wait with all the costs of the cage, brakes and paint all coming in quick succession. I 2 laps tops and take a break. Even on the real thing I couldn't have done more than that and didn't want to make any mistakes. I changed all the controls too, didn't feel right. Will see on the colour, not sure what to do yet. It might even get to flipping a coin when I arrive with the chassis! I wasn't planning on adding any more bodywork (spoilers etc) to the car as I like the stock look. From first glance I wanted to try and keep it as stock as possible but the wheels and brakes will give it away instantly, hence why I thought of changing the colour. We will see.....

Maybe I should take you if i go again? Something else I didn't know! I was told to lift off once I got to gantry and pop the bonnet to get more cooling through to the engine and coast back to the start line which I did every lap so looks like I was lucky GT5, DC2 on full race tyres and filter/ECU = 7 mins 59 secs I didn't think to add ballast. I bought new Toyo T1R's to go over there which come with 11mm tread, came back 5mm from memory but they are bloomin soft compared to the Michelin Pilots I normally run. £1k for a 4 day trip to the ring including service is a fair budget. Never lost a thing from my deck, been absolute gold It was my daily driver before I decided to start this project, my dads before me. Had several Honda's over the years and "touch wood" never had any real problems. Next update will be when I go to have the seat position measured again before they finish the seat mounts. I'm hoping that will be in the next 2 weeks. im playing gt3 atm and im finding it hard to do the second last test on A licence .. keeping a car on the road at the ring is tough GT3 - still think that was a better game than GT4 and some parts of GT5

Lap times were difficult to measure as we had to slow down to go through the old pit lane where the Nordschliefe meets the GP circuit (if you play GT5 you'll know where I mean ) I didn't check properly before going and went on the same weekend and the Moto GP so they slowed us down where the 2 circuits get close to each other. Average lap was about 11.00, best lap of the weekend was 10.15. I was a bad boy and took a sneaky vid of my best lap, seemed faster going round in real life, must have been the adrenaline She struggled up the bloody hill which is where I lost a lot of time! Sub 10 easily possible given more practice. Pretty happy with I did do as I'd only put the car back on it's wheels the week before! The difference between playing it on GT5 and real life is way more than I realised. I can't remember the total cost, it was something like £500 for 4 days (fuel, hotel, food, ferry etc) and £150 for 8 laps. Wear and tear on the tyres was painful Depends on what you hit causing the "full stop"

I have considered this as it's a good option. Still expensive if you crash the car as insurance doesn't cover the first €2500 for the Swift and €5000 for the Corsa of the excess on several of the hire companies around the ring. I also spoke to the guys at Rent4ring and they were very helpful and the cars look to be very well maintained!

IF I get it finished Engine may have to wait a little longer Painting the whole car inside and out, but haven't decided what colour to go for. Looking at Championship white, gunmetal grey or stick with titan silver. Moving toward gunmetal grey at the moment but I know I will change my mind a few times before the car gets to the body shop. It's not been hard to do so far, just time consuming and money (I'm over 2 years into this build now) The civic has already been quick enough through the twisty stuff to take on bigger cars on track, now I want it to be safer and a little quicker I knew about the insurance. I rang for quotes for the ring and they were approx £350 per day. Bikes were always a risk on the ring, but on UK track days they keep them separated from the cars.

lol easiest way to imagine it is to put a concrete mixer in the back of the car full of gravel and have it running while driving, should have a similar effect