DeLaSoul
-
Posts
443 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
30
Content Type
Store
Calendar
Forums
Gallery
Downloads
Posts posted by DeLaSoul
-
-
Amazing work there! Bet you're glad to have gotten some done after such a long time!?
Were the perspex windows easy to source? Did the place know what a Civic Aerodeck was?
Yes, felt good. Had to put some air in the tyres as they were down to 15psi so shows how long it's bee sat there!
The front windows are the same as the MG, quite easy to find but the rears had to be made for the car. Plastics4Performance were cool about it, took a few weeks once I dropped off the originals for them to work from. Doubt they have them on their website but if anyone else wants them then they can supply and the quality is top notch
-
Okay - good weather and a few days off meant I could roll the car out into the open!
Plan for the day was to check the fuel cell, check the fit of the perspex windows and make a restart on the wiring.
Removed the door locks, then stripped the central locking parts off and refitted the locks. Every little helps!
Also got rid of the last of the door electrics and wiring up front
Okay - fuel cell check
Fits nicely, only 10l smaller than stock but it's inside the car and a damn site stronger!
Up until now I've not really tried to fit the windows to the car so a quick check to see how they go in
Left the seal out for now but its a good fit. Plastics4performance even painted the edges of the panels to hide the bonding!
Last job was to get on with the wiring. Front near side wing first -
And an hour later, all re-connected and ready to be sheathed.
Hopefully it won't be as long between being able to work on the car next time!
-
3
-
-
Cool thanks guys. Mine is the 22mm one and it's okay for everyday driving but will spit me off the track on a race day. I'll look around for the 18mm one and fit that.
Cheers
-
Hi guys,
I know a lot of people (including myself) fit the rear ARB from the MG ZS to the Aerodeck and it has a noticeable effect on the cars handling. I've found mine to be very responsive to initial steering inputs, but made the car harder to drive on the limit through the corners. This will be magnified on my current setup with all the weight savings and stiffer chassis, so my question is:
Does anyone know of or have a list of what rear roll bars are availiable for the the MG ZS/Aerodeck? I have adjustment on the wishbone pickup point which will help but a thinner bar in my case will be a must!
Thanks,
Dave
-
So 1, how have I never seen this thread and 2, your in Swindon!! I want a peak!!
Thread's been quiet for a while as I've been busy with work and family over the last few months. Fuel cell has arrived, so I'll post pics when I can, and engine is about to go off for a rebuild. Also picked up a VTi-S skirt and lip set for it, but not sure I want to fit it yet. Car is locked down tight somewhere in Swindon, might be open to bribery for a sneaky look
Amazing, I post a link up to a thread on facebook and back to the top it goes!
Lol, I had noticed
Just need to get back into the build now the evenings are lighter for longer. -
any updates on this?
No, barely in the UK at the moment due to work. Will try and take a few weeks off over Xmas if the boss will let me!! -
Hi,
The order for bleeding the fluid is to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way forward. Can't think a car that's different on all the cars I've ever done
but I love the old Haynes manuals - refitment is the reverse of disassembly!!!On my car, when I had the servo, the pedal would be solid with the engine off, took a lot of effort to get any travel at all. With engine running, the pedal was very firm but I could push hard enough to get the pedal to go down an around an inch but very very very slowly. I can only guess that fluid can still get around the seal in the master cylinder given enough effort so as nothing else in the system breaks and leaks.
Not sure what else to suggest?
-
Firstly - where did you get that bleed order? Assuming your car is right hand drive it should be RL RR FL FR. You always bleed with the engine off so that's right, and shut the bleed valve off with the pedal down - were you doing that?
Did it have this same exact fault with the old master cylinder and servo? What you have described is 1 fault and 3 possible causes you've addressed (brake fluid, servo and master cylinder) so how were you sure which one was the issue? I've had a similar problem on several cars and 95% of the time it's the fluid. The other 5% was brake flexi's which you'll need someone to push hard on the brake pedal and go hunting carefully around all the lines for splits and bulges. I doubt this is the issue if it's only doing it with the engine on as the servo is an "assistance device" and only adds a modest amount of pressure - I don't even run a servo in my car!!
If the pedal is hard after each part of the system is bled I would say you did it right but worth re-checking, then the brake flexi's. If that's not the issue I'd start the car with the vacuum to the servo disconnected and see what happens. It is really a process of elimination!
Not sure if that helps, but give it a try.
Dave
-
DeLaSoul to the rescue!!
Thanks Dave for coming over and swapping your good sunroof for mine and helping me fit it.
Surprisingly easy and quick to do, now I've got no worries with a leaky seal.
Top man!!
Lol, no worries. Better than me cutting the seal off a perfectly serviceable roof!
-
Possibly just no longer available, my problem may of course have been Brighton Honda being rubbish- it might be worth having a phone around or asking John Banks. I was surprised that it couldn't be replaced because it looks like it just pulls off.
Quite likely- all the other windows are the same pattern. Not actually tried it myself though.
Other windows are the same for sure, my perspex window kit and heated screen are all made for the Rover except the rear quarters and screen on the MC and they fit perfectly. It's almost a shame they never made a MG ZS-T so I could buy a solid roof skin!!
-
Okay, I MAY be able to help here. I have the roof panel out of my car and it's in good condition and I was going to cut the seal off so I just have the glass panel to use for a template as I'm filling in the roof on mine with a solid panel. I'm willing to swap it for one with a split seal ONLY if the glass and mounts are perfect. It would seem a shame to cut up a perfectly serviceable sunroof if someone needs it.
Let me know, I'm in Swindon area most weeks, China the rest of the time so bear with me if I don't reply instantly!
Dave
-
I've just bought the buddyclub dual bend short shifter. Very solid and comes with the spacers and bearings, just need to fit it but I'm told it's approx 30% shorter in the shift travel. It was about £60
-
Epic build. cleaning the wiring can save some weight and make maintenance easier. What material you are planning to use for final dashboard?
Thanks, need to put the fuse box in a location that will be easy to access but out of site. Fiberglass skin covered with Alcantara for the dash and I'll bolt it back to welded brackets on the cage.
-
1
-
-
I'm still terrified by the pics of that wiring
I know what you mean about that loop, hopefully you can hide it. Congratulations on the weight loss, let's hope you can keep it off, so easy to put on especially when you're laid up.
Wiring is not so bad, just takes time and when I keep changing my mind on the location of the fuse box it only takes longer!
Moved onto the dashboard for now while I figure out where I finally want the ECU and fuse box.
Started with some forming ribs along the dashboards length.
Zip tied the fuse box on place for now and then covered the formers with card to judge the shape
Also allowed me to get the location of the steering column cut out and check the clearances.
You can tell I spent my younger years watching Blue Peter!
Re-fitted the stock centre console just to see how different the location of the new and old ones would be. It's a lot!
There is a big gap back from the console to the dash and I know I'm not using the original centre anymore but in this position I can reach the controls still, pushing it back I can't! Not sure if I should extend the dash out further or extend the console??????
Worried about clearance for my foot and the clutch rest now though
This can be solved with a cut out so not so bad!
Took a day off and limped around Goodwood FoS last Thursday in the sunshine!!!!
-
1
-
-
Good work mate! Bet it's not easy with the foot as it is? How is the recovery going with that?
Cheers, at least I could do 70% of this sitting down in the bucket seat with my foot up on the roll cage! Doc says it could be up to 3 months before all the swelling goes down and I can run again which pee'd me off no end, I'm hoping it won't take that long. Lost 18kg in the last 6 months and I can finally get in and out of the car without looking like an idiot! Will have to stick to the bike and weights in the gym for now and try and keep the weight off that way. Wouldn't wish bruised bones and damaged ligaments on anyone!
-
Small update as I still can't put any weight on my foot
Some more wiring out of the loom.
All sections are now bundled by function in the cabin and ready to route. The wiring to the rear is all routed all the way up to the boot lid and tidied up so is ready for recovering. I've got to make the card templates for all the brackets to mount the fuse box and relays and get them made up and welded to the cage.
Next onto the brake lines:
Need to connect the 3 cylinders to the reservoirs under the bonnet.
Drilled the holes for the through fittings and made up the overbraided lines. I know need to make up the mount brackets to hold the reservoirs which will hide the lines if I mount it off the back off the shock tower. Still bit of a mess and I may remake the middle line as I don't like the loop (all I could do in the space as the line it too short for a direct hose fitting)
Had to cut a small section of the inner bulkhead skin away to get the fittings to fit properly. I still hate cutting the chassis!
I now need the brackets made and welded in place to finish the wiring and then onto the brake and fuel hardlines. The fuel cell is due at the end of the month so I can pipe that up and technically start the engine!!
-
last time I heard 1 ton of copper is worth around £8000
We deal in platinum at work and talk in ounces!
You should see how much I get out at work in a year
I have a load of cable from my old house when I wired the garage into the house. That should be worth something but I've not gotten around to doing anything with it all. Job for another day. I just want to be able to walk properly again so I can get on with the car!
-
Try looking at the Honda Aerodeck service manual, page 1079 (section 23-B-11). Fuse 6 under the dash is for the central locking and alarm by the looks of it. If the fuse is intact it could be the relay/power lock control unit (passenger door) or alarm control unit (behind dashboard, rear of the heater controls) at fault but try the fuse first.
-
How much copper have you got to weigh in?
No idea, but I don't fancy stripping it to get top dollar!
-
do i cut the red wire or the blue wire
Cut a few more than that so far.
ABS
AC
Alarm
Electric Windows
Power Mirrors
Central Locking
All gone
Loom to the back of the car looks WAY smaller and I've managed to shorten it in places too. Big box of cabling gone so far.Been off work for a week with a bruised bone in my foot so can't walk but I'll upload the photos when I can, but I've managed to to power up the rear of the car and it works without burning down the garage
-
4 hours, you must have done this before lol. Good time, i don't think i would have the patients but then if you get a good run i guess it helps!
Nope, but I've lost track of the stereos and alarms I did in my younger days when I worked in a garage. Solving electrical problems like this actually calms me down after a crap day at work. Sad really lol.
Oh dear, this makes me dizzy.
It'll all go back in to make a nice clean job.........I hope!
-
Defo Honda. Make sure you put copper slip on the shaft to stop them rusting in place. Mine took a bit of "persuading" to remove!
-
Next step, NS Leg!
This one is a bit more tricky as there is a fuse box to deal with. I have relocated my battery so this probably makes my job more of a nightmare but I like a challenge
Same again, lay out the harness and replace the fuse box
I get to ditch the ABS power box and AC wiring. The ABS power wiring are some of the biggest in the loom so will save me some space in the loom.
I think most people will end up with the power box still in place like below which still looks tidy. Not for me though, bit more work than that!
This side of the loom is not quite as easy as it plugs into the ECU on the inside. I had to strip everything off, and then got carried away and did ALL the dashboard wiring in the process
This did allow me to remove the ABS wiring back to the ECU, AC wiring back to the ECU and pull out the engine and chassis wiring. I now also have the fuse box inside the car but will have to do some creative wiring to get power from the battery.
What I have now though is the same as the OS Leg
Next will be the engine loom and tidy the living breathing medusa that the wiring loom in the cabin has become! All this so far took about 4 hours so not too bad. It has a long way to go but I'm pleased with the progress.
-
1
-
-
That's fair enough mate I don't blame you saving money, wiring like that scares the bejeezus out of me though.
Don't look at the next lot of photos then!
The loom into the engine bay is essentially in 4 main parts as I see it:
Power (to and from the main fuse box and back into the cabin)
Engine (Injectors, distributor, sensors etc)
ABS
Chassis (lights, horn, AC, windscreen wiper)
To hide it I want to split it into its core parts and re-route it, and at the same time remove what I no longer need. I've already pulled the entire loom out of the car but kept it intact until now so first job was to place it back in the chassis and start one piece at a time.
OS Leg:
This holds the main ABS wiring, OS Lights, horn, fan and some engine functions. Plugs in the cabin for this section of loom are colour coded as follows:
Orange - ABS
White - Engine
Brown - Chassis
Plugs from the cabin are at the top of the picture, I started by laying the harness roughly in place. I couldn't put it back if I wanted to as the roll cage goes straight through the original hole in the bulkhead!!!
Next I started stripping all the tape and tubing from the loom. Boring stuff but keep track of any junctions. I put a small piece of white electrical tape around each one and labeled EVERY plug no matter how obvious it was.
Once it was all uncovered, I separated the 3 main functions of this piece of the loom. This side is easiest as it doesn't have the Power part of the loom. To get to the stage below, I've cut 1 wire and removed the rubber boot from the loom. I can't use the boot but if you want to keep the ABS then I suggest taking a bit more time and use this for the ABS wiring.
I had to cut an earth lead from the master cylinder level warning float (Engine wiring) and the main earth lead (Chassis Wiring). Simples
I'm going to run the wires inside the wing, so off with the wing and look for wiring options. Pretty easy really!! Few bolts and the wing is off.
I want to run the wires from the Door wiring hole up the wing for the Chassis wiring, and feed the windscreen wiper plug through the drain hole up the the wiper motor.
Plug for the wiper motor get stuck so I won't route this for now. I need to remove the wires from the plug and re-connect once the wires are in place. This will be a way off yet as I'm just routing wires for test fit for now.
At the other end, I used a hole in the inner wing skin to get the plug through for the headlight and fan.
The headlight plug won't fit with the wing bracket in place so remove the bracket for now.
Going this route so far I've cut 1 wire and managed to use the original earth point inside the wing.
Okay, now I'm happy with the wiring route, plugs reach and I can work with this I need to re-cover the wires for protection, fix them inside the wing and make sure they don't rub through where they pass through a bulkhead. No photos of this just yet but I plan to use the original boot that covers the door wiring for this. The boot is in 2 parts so if you want to keep the door functions (I don't) you can unwrap the tape and pass the wires through it. This is the point where I start cutting wires!!! My ABS is not going back but as I said before I would use the original bulkhead grommet for this one. The engine loom is going to a new MIL spec connector so I'm leaving this until last. Not ready for any of that yet so onto the other side.
-
2
-
MC2 Project - Chassis prep
in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Posted
No idea. From the feel of it, the whole kit weighs about the same as the rear screen. When I collected it I asked if it was all there and they just laughed at me