Karjis

Really nice results!

Today I was doing some small scale winter slalom. It was fun like always, but those winter tires just are completely dead, no grip at all. Okay bit more than with summer tires but not much, on ice those tires were useless.. But well, that lead to long slides in slow speed That track was quite much quicker earlier, but it was mostly just ice and loose snow when I got there. Sorry about camera rattle, it was canon ixus mounted to cell phone holder.. aand i forgot to turn the radio off But, snow and ice TtlOEyWGYKM Speed are between 0 and 40kph, not fast, just fun

Hahaha, with iShift, that would need sacrificing the trunk and rear seats for that lump of steel.. would have 2500Nm though..

That brace looks heavy, but I sure hope that it's lighter than MB6/MC2 factory brace

If not B, could it be K

And okay, VTEC won't leave unnoticed even now. the engine sound tune to quite metallic roar even now, at least it's having Blox intake manifold so no too many curves in intake to muffle the sound And as a teaser, now here where I'm sitting, I see carboard box which contains valve springs, cams and maybe even pistons and injectors

I'm always silently looking at good 4-2-1 manifold but it's not the top priority I have SRS 4-1 manifold but it reduces ground clearance too much, and therefore it is badly dented

Btw I remembered I uploaded a short video to youtube last month, pull with 3rd and 4th gear, and I should do that again with proper camera some day dfMu6QfSsfA

Because this thread is worthless without pics, there is some! I think the least epic things to add, but still Okay, kick panel has been kicked a lot, I'll try to restore it somehow next summer. Okay "Installed" Took at least 5 seconds, I'll do the "Dave's mod" for the clip some day. And it's snowing again. And interior pics also show how dirty the interior is, I hate not having a garage Okay, with good eyes new wheel nuts might show up shiny. At least something done this weekend.

I got the head of the other screw destroyed while opening, so my solution was to force suitable socket over the screw head, might be 10 or 11mm socket over the screw with gentle tapping with hammer, then just open it with ratchet normally. Screws are quite soft material so socket won't get damaged, best is if you have 12 corner socket of appropriate size.

For my opinion only difference between MB3 and MC2 is that decks bigger engine warms up more quickly, but when engine is warm, there is no significant difference. With MB or MC both, when it's -25 degrees outside, you need full heat all the time and still I won't really want to take my jacket off. Heater just don't have the power. With EF it was possible to reduce heater power to like 75% heat even if it was -25 outside. Problem is not in engine heat output, problem is somewhere in the heater. My guess is that M:s heater matrix is just too small (thin) and cheap (aluminium, not copper) to transfer heat efficiently from water to air. It was another story with old Saab 9000, you could roll down rear windows in during winter and still drive with just T-shirt on, sweating Edit: I took a look about M:s heater taken apart, heater matrix itself is ridiculously small, it just can't have the power, so it is "broken by design"

Quick update again - Footrest installed back where it belongs. - Cup holder installed. - Fog lights are now working with new bulbs. (Basic Philips Premium +30% H3 bulbs) - Honda Access original wheel nuts installed. - Thought about buying MG ZS, while cruising revved Honda to vtec, forgot the MG. During weekend I spent around 3 hours for changing left fog light bulb. Annoying project because basically I had to drill screws off to get light off from that metal frame, all screws were really rusty and didn't open even with soaking with CRC rust-off for whole night. And after that one screw of that bulb cover was seized really badly, it didn't open even with cutting the screw head off. I cut half of the corner off from that cover and after cutting I got it open with big screwdriver and hammer.. I have to say that fog light of M is tough, I used ridiculous amounts of force to open the lid, but all parts except the screws survived without any bigger damage. And all that work for lights I never use because those are useless. But okay, those are visible so it needs to work to pass inspection, another option would have been to cover the lenses, but it felt like ducktape fix I also got cup holder to center armrest on Friday, I like it. I also got screws for mounting the footrest, much nicer to drive with footrest in place, don't know why previous owner had wanted to remove it and leaving hole to the carpet.. Pics coming later today! And one sad thing.. I didn't install the airbox yet, I forgot to take all the mounting part with me when I drove to garage, so maybe next weekend

No, ABS light should not come on when engine is running if there is no fault, it is basically "ABS Fault" light, so even on aggressive braking on slippery road light stays off. Traction controls on some cars flashes light when operating, but ABS is "silent" system, just some pump/valve sound and small "kicking" at brake pedal. On turning ignition on ABS lamp comes on for couple of seconds and goes off if everything is OK.

Well, I'm living in southern finland, this place is 300 miles more north than Glasgow, or a bit more than 600 miles northern than London., so, south. It's still 400 miles north to arctic circle..

Really awesome wheels, looks great!

Looks nice, I have to say that I'm a big fan of VTI-S bodykit, looks really clean.

Haha, not really, statistically last week was a time when half of winters snowfall is here, lots of snow to come. Maybe spring in southern places It has been snowing daily last few days. Official snow depth is today 55 cm, and worst times are coming when snow is melting during days and freezing again during night time. Yesterday I was again using front lip as snow plow to get to my parking spot, it's handy. About the filter.. I want to get rid of TSS-Tuning intake, it doesn't fit to my eye at all. Pics about replacement project coming after next weekend, with small weather reservation, if it's freezer cold or snowing heavily I might think again about the timing. ( On Saturday it should be sunny and only -6 degrees.. so building time )

After quick wash, somehow I didn't imagine that ITR airbox would be so small, but it's of course a good thing, filter itself is almost as big as whole box. Quick rinse with Solmaster AS 40 and here it is!

Nice bumper, my first impression was same if you look at people without eyebrows, looks weird but really can't say what is different But still it's nice and different.

Driving on ice track is one of the best things to do with our pants on, just snow and ice, no trees or ditches to crash. Today miracle happened and I was at the same place at the same time than UPS delivery guy, got my ITR airbox, now I only need a filter for that before installation, but hardest parts are acquired now. I began to think that I need new winter tires, I have just 4mm thread depth left in front tires and I got massive wheelspin when overtaking last weekend on a bit icy/snowy road. So today I've been checking prices for a set of new winter tires. I really have two candidates now, Nokian Hakkapeliitta 7:s or Continental ContiIceContacts, both are quite pricey but no can do. I've also thought about Nokian Hakkapeliitta R:s but I'm not a fan of studless winter tires, a bit too slippery on clear ice. Now I'm driving with Hakkapeliitta RSi:s, but those are 7 years old deathtraps..

My only experiences are stock, SRS and Supersprint exhausts, stock is nice and silent, can't hear it inside the car really. Supersprint is almost comparable to stock in city speeds but when being hard on accelerator it will be heard. I would recommend, it's like gentlemans tuning exhaust, sporty but not too loud. SRS was stupid, too loud and annoying from the first start, replaced SRS with Supersprint (both mufflers) and now I'm satisfied. My driving is quite highway oriented, at least I don't like to listen to "BWAAAAAA" for two hours without any breaks, i'd like to listen to music when cruising with highway speeds. (~80-85 mph) MB3 was a bit more forgiving than MC2 because 5th gear is much longer. But still, don't buy SRS if you don't really want stupidly loud exhaust.

As far as I know importer even made some modifications to MA:s which were not heating well when new, but it was said that it was fixed like '95 so it was somehow working from the factory. But to my knowledge those modifications were just some extra insulation to channels dividing heat. My old EF civic could heat the interior to 55'C even on below zero outside temps, so heating was really powerful, but in MB and MC you have to use heating with full heat like 20 minutes to get car really warm and after that you can like put the heating to 80% heat to keep warm, not really so nice. And engine is definitely warm, after long enough idle the radiator fan switches on, but sill not too hot air to interior. For my experience Peugeot 405 and 406 has really powerful heater and what ever you do, you can't get that much heat out of M. If I need to take heater apart some day, I will check if there is a possibility to put larger/better heating radiator.

Yeah, I never got the idea why to have sunroof and A/C in same car, and mostly if you have well equipped M with sunroof, you also have A/C. Okay roof window is nice, but otherwise sunroof is just stupid.

I also have all holes open with A/C, so grille is completely symmetrical, no differences comparing radiator and A/C side. Had It with both M:s, both fitted with A/C.

Honda also has heated mirrors on M:s and If I remember correctly there is own fuse in fuse box for heated mirrors, there might even be wire to the door for that. But okay, in MB3 Honda original mirror heating is style "always on" and i think it's stupid, if you look at Haynes' book wiring diagram, the mirrors get their heating power right after ignition switch. In Aerodeck schematics it is wired from rear window heater button, which makes lot more sense and i think it's much more common to do thay way if no separate button for heated mirrors like in some JDM Hondas. If connector doesn't fit, look if the connections itself fits and change the plastic bits with really small screwdriver.