Karjis

In all M:s original front speakers are 160 mm. Metric sized speaker, rear speaker mounts are for standard 4" (100 mm) speaker. Okay that you had that sorted out but I still figured that exact answer is nice to find. There are few 160 mm speakers available which fit directly to that original plastic frame, but well, those are usually quite cheap models. Some retailers mix them with 165 mm (6,5") Speakers but there is small difference. And also mounting holes are not in same places.

Leaves can be removed by taking interior air filter out also. I usually clean the leaves every time checking the filter. Just remove glovebox, then remove four screws holding that metal bar on place and then open the hatch for filter. Pull the filter out and use vacuum cleaner to remove all the dirt that can be accessed. Sometimes i have had some leave stuck in the fan itself. Then I needed to drop down the fan motor to clean the fan. I've been thinking that would it be possible to make some noise barrier under the fan. Similar ventilation system can be found for example in Volvo 940 and it has plastic plate under the fan with some noise insulation to block the fan noise. There's really no much room for noise insulation but I will try. It would be nice not to hear the fan in a way that noise would mostly come only from air nozzles.

Actually I didn't keep my promises, okay I did everything as planned, but sold my MB3 then. But shouldn't be so bad, I sold it because I found MC2 to rescue from horrible tuning.

If it learns, just change filters and show the MB who is driving, it will learn oh yeas it will learn Okay really check the valve clearances and check that exhaust is flowing freely, I mean not blocked by broken muffler. I'd say there's no need for reset, just do the service and drive.

I'd also have a try with DLS, Focal, Ground Zero, Rainbow or Helix in midprice sector. Remember that when price is rising, most of the rise is coming from quality of tweeter and crossover. With better tweeter, crossover point can be set lower and soundstage rises nearer the dashboard level from the feet. Of course for good stereo image, quality of tweeter is really important. And if lacking bass in M, it's because front doors are almost tinfoil, you'll get much more punch even from stock speakers with proper damping of front doors. In low volume levels should be remembered that cheap amps are usually having really poor specs, most quality head units (Pioneer/Alpine..) are having lover distortion levels and better channel separation than cheap amps. With higher volume levels plain power is making the difference, but with 10 real watts volume is actually really loud if not wasting power for electric bass boosts and all kind of bull s***. Prefer RIGID speaker installation and good damping makes the real bass. (Vibroplast, Dynamat, etc) In M:s front doors it's easy to cut a good mounting ring for 6,5" speaker from about 25mm thick plywood, take the outer lines from that original plastic speaker mount and mark the screwholes. Then cut properly sized opening for speaker, drill mounting holes and install. Mounting is easy to those original mounting points with a bit longer screws. Between ring and door i suggest using some rubber seal, i personally use just normal P-shaped foam seal which is made for windows/doors. All holes near speaker should be blocked and in half meter radius from speaker, it should be airtight, at least to cabin direction. With door damping, don't ever block the water drains from doors or use materials which absorbs water inside the door structure. Okay this wasn't any howto, just some advice to get some quality to sound. I'll be making some project from my MC damping next spring, but it's no going to be this basic. In MB I had some kind of sound evolution slowly, there I also used original speakers with simple damping for a while, and it was huge improvement compared to original.

I would liked to see when that red car was getting out of there Might have been a battle

Well, MG ZS is basically Rover 400 and both share most of chassis with M:s so.. Rover part is just right. 4th gen Honda parts aren't the same.

Adapter connector for Honda speakers with plug that connects to original speaker plug and short wires costs almost nothing at ebay or a bit more at shops that are specialised to car audio. If i remember right, at least AIV makes those adapters, so no need to cut wires. Some type i found was Metra 72-7800, connector is the same in almost all hondas.

That switch is easy to dismantle into pieces and clean. I've also had some problems with rear door switches, but simple cleaning did the trick and now it works nicely. Just don't let the small springs to escape really far when opening the switch. I think problem is that the switches aren't really water-/dustproof. And with rear doors, outer lip seals ends when windows end, so dirt can reach the switches, with some time connection problems occur. And don't let the wire to drop inside rear fender, it's real pain in the a*s to get out again.

Are your cars driven at all? I think I found a quite low mileage civic compared to age and it has 133k miles (213k km) done. My last workhorse MB3 had 178k miles when I sold it. I think I'm not driving so much but still I get between 15k - 20k miles every year.

Oh, another deck from close distance Have to say that your deck is nice, mine is almost identical, except that I'm a big fan of those OEM wheels and I have two full sets

All different species of idiots on the roads.. I don't have good pics myself but in here "north" our neighbours causes some trouble, so, collection of better or worse parking by Russian drivers in Finnish border towns, that site is in English so, just see it by yourself http://njetparkering.blogspot.fi/ My parents live quite near russian border and really, that jackass parking is a real problem there..