Karjis

Well, only one where I already used cleaning stuff so it already got some colour to broken parts. All the chippings basically had no surface anymore at all, one place was almost wen't through.

Today I fixed the seat, drivers seat was worn from the edge of it. I sanded and recolored right side of backrest and both sides of the seat itself. Now it's somewhat good, although i should have used more filler to left side because it's not perfect yet. Maybe I'll redo it some day. Another thing 350cc Injectors installed, with small adjustment of fuel pressure car now runs well with E85. Should reprogram the ecu to get pressure to stock so I'll get rid of the adjustable fuel presure regulator, hate it. But okay now runs with E85!

Well there is few variables that you need to have right when building a box. You can't have the bass of big box out of small box. But you can make a small box and thing going down then is sensitivity. Also box with port has to be tuned right and preferably to the frequency speaker manufacturer recommends. Building box that small I'd recommend building sealed enclosure. As you can find from all kinds of box calculators, vented box with proper tune for car use (30..35Hz) and pipe diameter of even 3"will need quite long ( about 12") reflex pipe. Smaller the enclosure, longer the pipe. Also longer pipe if diameter is bigger. With 3" tube you can have like 100W of power without signifficant compression with reflex port, but okay that is loud already. 12mm MDF is really thin. I recommend to add supports between opposite walls. For 12" sub enclosure has to be strong enough to 100kg man to jump on it without damage, forces are big with sub enclosures. And vented box has to be even stronger or it won't work like it should. There are two ways to build working subwoofer: 1. Choose a speaker and then design appropriate enclosure for it. 2. Design an enclosure and find suitable speaker element for it. But you cannot fix both variables and then force the combination to work. What audiobahn model were you thinking of? And what is the internal volume of your box?

Do you have any reinforcemenst for the box inside? Material looks really thin for good bass box. BTW remove the trim behind the box, there is good space for box hiding. Well it's just me, doing nuke-proof bass boxes but with box as big you have I'd use at least one inch thick hard plywood or closer one and half inces of MDF. What kind of port are you using? Seems that enclosure is not so big so port cannot be really big without tuning going to too high frequency. I'm just curious as car audio hobbyist

Lego kit for ages 25 and up Forgot the ITR Pistons from the pic. I'm also having those for a bit higher compression ratio. I'm not using the valves from that part pile, but I'm upgrading the springs. Valvetrain in pic is from B18C6. Rest are just for a bit bigger service, rings etc.. Injectors are from Saab 9-3 SS (350cc) and fuel rail is already modified to house 14mm injector top seal so Saab (okay, Denso) injectors will fit.

Actually, see the photo in my post from 12th of may. There are all bolts visible that needs to be touched when installing rear ARB. It was really nice and straightforward thing to do. Just remember that car has to be level when installing droplinks. And the best option is to tighten all the bolts when car has its weight on wheels so everything is aligned like it should be. Something for next week.. And today, here in cold and snowy north.. or not. I'm melting outside. Not funny anymore

Yeah took me half an hour to install rear ARB. And that included opening the threads with threading pin to get the arb mounts fitted to body. Easy job. Got the poly bushes installed to rear and front arbs, sharper to drive now. Also tailgate with spoiler is now installed. It took couple of days because there was some corrosion inside next to keyhole. Also spoiler mounting holes had some markings that paint is not perfect so I also used some hammerite there to prevent rusting. A bit chipped spoiler is now glued to one piece, sanded, primed and painted with original color. All DIY so i'm proud of my work. I took short 600km roadtrip this weekend in wester archipelago. It was very nice but the car is too low now. I had small problems driving to ferries and off, some steps are just a bit high so need to drive slowly and a bit sideways. But survived 8 ferry rides from island to island with no damage. As next thing rear wiper should arrive next wednesday to local Honda dealer. Also something different happening in next few days. Two next weeks are still summer holiday. So good time to spend in garage.

That leather gator is top mod! That stupid ball-shaped cover in FN is just ugly from factory.

Now I'm having also rear wiper motor and bracket. I'm thinking that will the mid spoiler help to keep rear window clean on poor weather, any experiences?

Another educated guess is that you can take a starter from any D-block engine. So basically any other Civic starter than ones from VTi models should be fine. Also at least HR-V had also D-engines so part can be found there also.

Front door midrange speakers are always the same in all M:s. Tweeters are usually found only at high spec versions. But original tweeters are just replacements for mirror triangle plastic cover. Wired parallel with door speaker. Original tweeter modules has a series capacitor acting as crossover blocking low frequencies from damaging the tweeter. So no need to worry about anything else than just connecting + and - wires to same wires going to midrange speakers. So there are no separate crossover box like in higher quality 2-component speaker sets. Actually midrange speaker is not filtered any way even if using tweeters. Just acoustic characteristics of speaker is so that high range is not reproducing so well from midrange speakers. Usually that is the reason why "real" 2-component sets sounds better, as a speaker itself, Honda front end is not so bad. Rear speaker installation place is so bad in all M:s that I don't even see the point to do anything for those. For example MB3/MB6 rear speaker is acoustically killing all bass because front and rear sides of speaker aren't separated properly. Outcome is acoustic short circuit in lower frequencies. That structure can work in midrange but good bass reproduction with original rear speaker installation in M is not anyway controllable. Just concentrate to front end with M.

Saab 9-5 might be my next car choice. Usually always when driving on highway I'll think that I should change my car. And 9-5 Estate is a bit similar than MC2. And I mean that so that estate is done by adding things to "basic" version. Somehow so wrong but still it looks good. And of course I like how Saabs drive, even on poor weather it is solid as a tank. Not to mention that those things has a heater unlike M-Civics which just has a device that adds some "handwarm" air to the cabin when it's cold outside. And okay troubles? Confused, by my experience Saabs are really reliable even highly tuned ones. I know couple closer to 400 bhp 9-5 that are used as daily driver. Stupidly easy to modify to run with E85 also.

Doing some thinking those are ball shaped, because I have couple of those Isuzu nuts and those are ball shaped like Honda originals also. Good thing that you found appropriate ones. .. and yes those are amounts, I shouldn't write anything before lunch.

Youll find similar nuts from Motonet labeled as Isuzu wheel nuts, open end and quite small height. .. But okay those might have that "ball" shaped seat like honda originals. At least with stock rims that open nut is almost level with tyre bolt, so can't be much lower anymore without machining also bolts. BTW.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-X-M12-X-1- ... 2a2d539fd2 .. so I figured that would be 20mm? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-X-M12-X-1- ... 2a2316a184 .. or 16mm ? But not so sure about the qAUlity of those nuts, at least when i checked the pic said "Great qaulity" .. convincing enough

I actually read that mail again one day when trying to find some papers, I'll post the details when I remember to do it. I saw one vti deck in Hyvinkää some weeks ago, it had "non-eu" plates and it seemed to be completely original. It was quite high. Looked like CR-V with "DOHC VTEC" badges on rear doors And me too, I haven't seen any MC2 claimed to be "true finn". Just one MB6 was sale in Kouvola couple of years ago, almost bought it but it was gone already when asking for more details. So, Plausible it is.

Postman brought again some goodies! So, front and rear ARB bushes for almost all parts. Rear droplink bushes are brand new so I won't change those now. Should install all these asap.

Okay, I was like a kid in a candy store when cutting tape and removing carboard, styrofoam etc. Today was a good day, few bushes arrived from Rimmerbros! I hope to get rid of "glunk" driving into a pothole. But that's not all! I also received new tailgate, upper spoiler bent in transport but it's fine in my current tailgate. Problem was just that my old tailgate is really rusty inside, and it is just annoingly expensive to paint again after repairing rust. This one is rust free inside, only registration plate screw is rusty but it's no problem. Here are my gifts to my deck today. Parts are now living at my balcony until I have time to put everything together and build one really good tailgate.

By my opinion if your piston is worn, get whole new reconditioned caliber, price difference is not so big. Good recond should include new bearing for handbrake mechanism etc. that aren't included in rebuild kits. But if you manage with just rubber parts, then it might be worth doing the repair. So depends on the condition of the piston and also is there any slack in handbrake mechanism. Congrats for the passed MOT.

That amount of work is something I would like to do to old car. That will work for 15-20 years with any rust problems, epic!

Okay, this weekend was again car related. On saturday: Yearly check, passed with no official problems. Inspector just said that left foglight was aimed a bit too high.. aaand continued that small foglighs are so poor as light output that really doesn't matter where it is aimed, true Yearly check results had nothing special -Brakes worked like should, left / right difference was just 0,1kN on both axles. -Emissions were okay. I was scared of HC because my deck is burning oil, but just 26ppm (limit 100) at 2500rpm. -Lights were working -And shock absorbers worked fine in shaking pad test. Only some difference in right/left in rear axle. But i figured that out. Left rear shock had quarter a turn more stiffer than right shock. (Koni's rebound adjustment) -Also all bushings were in one piece, although I think rear LCA bush is quite done (too soft) but it's still in one piece so it's fine for inspection. After succesfull inspection I had new motivation to change engine oil and filter. And after that I also bolted 20mm rear ARB in place where it belongs. Easy job with proper lift. New bolts and end links. Old end links were badly worn and bolts were rusty so I replaced them all. Just needs new bushings between body and bar itself. Today I also adjusted valve clearances and corrected Koni's adjustments. It has a bit less under steer now so it's way better to drive.

Okay, quoting really old (first) post. But one of the old owners of my deck had asked that from Veho, which was the official importer in 98. There is three VTi decks imported to Finland as new by Veho. I have a copy of that letter at home so it's not any memory based information. Just some knowledge which is cool to know I'm also having German immigrant, so it's not equipped with heated seats and mirrors. Mine is Imported 2006.

Runs well, gives me more motivation to finally install b18c6 valvetrain which I've had lying around for almost half a year now

Nice job on detailing, although I'd like to see that engine bay cleaner. Should be almost as good painting inside the engine bay in Honda than outside. So just good degreaser and old dish washing brush and wash it. At least ignition parts looks quite dirty. Just trying to give simple ideas. After that and a good polish it would look really cool.

Have the inspection soon so I removed the tinting foil from front windows. Haven't really liked those myself at anytime because there's some scratches. Okay, foils were easy, just using sharp knife to start from upper edge and just pulled the film off. Okay it took 30seconds per window. But the glue!! It took me 2 hours to get windows clean again, trying with all stuffs. Got the windows clean with label remover and a rag and 90% Ethanol. I won't be removing any tintings if I don't have to.

Yeap! Like you see in pics. It has been raining a bit and snow is gone. Spring is coming quickly and roads are dry. Even during nights it stays above zero so in few days we might get some green colour to the scenery. Have to get inspection done in two weeks. I'm a bit worried about HC emissions because deck is burning some oil. It has about 140k miles on clock so I'm not worried about the engine. Just should open it and hopefully sort it out with new rings. But I don't have time to do that in two weeks so I just need to hope that she passes with no problems. At least I know that lights are okay, brakes are good and suspension shouldn't have any problems. Should pass.. previous owner only had issues with exhaust leaking. But that was sorted out first when I got the car.