Karjis

By my opionion good tires are really worth the money. I've had Hankook, Toyo, Continental and Nokian tires over time. I have to say that T1R Toyo was quite nice when it was new, but it became slippery when wearing. Now I'm having Hakka V:s which I have to say, have better grip than T1R:s had. But Hankook RS2 "track day tire" was awesome also. RS2 just was really slippery when it was wet and cold. But on warm day the grip was something in it's own class, R888 Toyo might be other with that kind of grip. Go at least with Falkens, don't spoil your deck with nankangs..

I'm only worried about ABS light. At my MB3 both rear wheel sensors died within one year. Front sensors are almost free, just 30 usd from ebay but M:s rear sensors are more rare and just too expensive for a small bit, mine were 230 euros per piece. But okay just check the codes first. I was lazy and just checked the sensors with multimeter. Those broken sensors were funny because those worked when it was cold enough (below -15 or something) but when weather warmed up those died.

Some quick photo whoring while driving around. Too bad I didn't have camera with me, so pics with phone.. New Pilkington windshield installed yesterday. A bit more bit brighter view to everything than from original windshield. But still good that first one lasted almost 15 years. Btw have you thought that even newest M:s are quite old. Weather was nice, and I just don't get any good pics

About the same from here. But it's 2013 and takes 2-3 days with air mail. Just order from their website.

Soft bushes. I mean softened with time and miles. Also worn rear LCA bushes causes weird behavior under acceleration and braking. Especially braking while cornering is jiggly with worn rear LCA bushes.

Just get all nuts and bolts from rimmer bros. All bolts as MG original parts are less than 5 pounds. Then those are new and 100% right fit. Those bolts with integrated washers can be a bit hard to find.

Okay quick Sunday update I got new summer tires on friday. 195/55 R15 Nokian Hakka V because got one year old but still new tires quite cheap. Much nicer to drive now. Next Tuesday I'll get that wagon to windshield change. I got a stone to driver's side "black area" and of course there is now huge line through the glass. I realised that my Koni Sports on front axle was on lower position. I'll try to move the locking pin to upper position next time possible to get some ground clearance. I think now that car sits a bit too low and it's a problematic to drive down from parking lots etc. Pictures will come.. some day

I should order the same set of bushes. Rear arb-bushes are quite done.. But at least you know what to do on Friday evening.

I've found those from Superflex

marko: Well, in my opinion the whole v-power concept is useless. At least in Finland V-power costs easily 5-10 cents per litre more than normal 98E5,. With really small benefits. Just save the money and do something real for your car with that money. Do something for your brakes. You'll lose more with those brakes than gain with v-power.. If your brakes fade before you smell that something is really burning, you have water in your brake fluid. Just change the fluid. It's easy and inexpensive operation. And really more important is to change the fluid often enough than get something special fluid. Good fluids like Motul RBF 600 needs changing even more often than regular DOT 4 or 5.1. because those absorbs water even faster than ordinary fluids. (don't use Dot 5, it's not for abs-brakes!) I literally drove my old MB3 rear disks blue on track day without significant brake fading. Those brakes smelled like burning clutch and smoked a bit. So civic 5 brakes shouldn't fade. I'll list what I had done for that. So, my simple brake tricks - Clean everything, open the sliding pins and clean those as well. Also from caliber side. - Take the brake pad slides off and clean the caliber under the thin metal sheets. If those are rusty, even use sandpaper to get everything clean and smooth. Brake pads should move really easily. I mean so easily that you can remove brake pad with one finger. - But ceramic paste to sliding pins. I use CRC Metal Free Paste that Holds up to 1400 celsius. Copper paste will escape when brakes are really, really Hot. Front brakes: - With all but one caliber installed in it's place. Keep one caliber off from it's place and press brake one or two times so piston moves a bit outwards. Then press piston back down and repeat.. repeat and repeat. Be careful not to let piston to pop out from caliber. When piston moves so easily that you can push it back in with just two thumbs without tools it's fine. (If some rubber part is faulty then you should rebuild the caliber with new seals. Just remember to grease all piston seal with suitable grease before assembling. MB6 front caliber piston is so big that you can rebuild it with elbows.. no need for small japanese fingers ) Rear brakes: - same than in front but you need to rotate the piston clockwise to get it in. Needle nose pliers are quite handy. Don't force the piston in. I recommend putting some grease between the outer seal and piston before rotating so the seal rubber won't tear. I used small screwdriver for that. Finally assemble. Back to all corners: - Check all bolts. But don't over tighten. You'll like to check the brakes more often if everything moves easily. Press brake some times so all pads are in place. - Open a NEW and unopened bottle of brake fluid. After braking the seal fluid will begin to absorb water from air. Think like bottle of cola. It's fine to store it for long time but after opening you'll want to use it quickly. - Open the brake fluid reservoir. - Put clear hose to bleeding nut and open the bleeding nut. Let the fluid flow so long that fluid in hose is as clear as new fluid and without air of course. Remember to keep reservoir full enough so it won't get any air to system. If fluid is not flowing to rear brakes, you can pump the brake pedal slowly to get fluid moving. - After you have done all corners just remember to put those protective rubber caps on top of those bleeding nuts. Have fun but then brakes should work. I recommend to change fluid at least every time pads are changed. And if not driving aggressively then replace the fluid every two years. And use same tricks for clutch also. All seals like new fluid. Remember that brake fluid is not healthy and it damages paint really easily. Whoops.. a bit long post but ask if everything is not clear.

Yeap! I cleaned most of the rust from the brake pad slides. Okay mosty below those detachable pieces. But still pads are moving freely and I forced the piston in and out for a few times, now it works fine. Not the nicest operation to do while it's raining I'll upload some pics for that filter installation during weekend.

Whoa, I would like that rear lip somewhere, I think that deck would look much lower and somehow more refined if that middle skirt would be painted to car body colour like front and rear lips.

Ah.. had that same pattern in my MB3 seats also, those came much more black when car detailer washed the seats. Took like half an hour to wash all the seats and after that those were almost like new.. although car was driven 170 thousand miles.

And after that whining at the last post, I have something positive to say also! Wohoo! Got the ITR Air filter installed.. or almost installed last weekend, it has only temporary mounting now, but it's not going anywhere. I have to say that my deck is now much quieter and as a downside VTEC sound almost disappeared. But for some strange reason, engine seems to (placebo..) build up revs a bit more aggressively from idle, poor front tires. But actually it's nicer to use revs now because sound is not so violent anymore. And I got rid of the cone filter "BROOOM" always when touching accelerator on highway. Now I deserved hot Sauna and cold Beer!

Aaaaargh Have you ever thought that cars have black sense of humour? My deck decided to jam the drivers (LEFT!) front brake caliber so tightly that car stayed in place without handbrake almost everywhere Problem: Okay, It's raining, I have no time to drive to the garage which is 150 kilometers away and I have to drive more than 250km during tomorrows workday, not to mention that I have to be 300km away from my home at saturday 9am, so driving before waking up really. And even after 1km city driving, brake caliber is so hot that it can't be touched. Solution: Go out and use that deadly honda jack to lift the car and take the brake caliber apart and clean and get everything moving again. And like everyone can guess.. After I got the wheel in place and tools back inside and car back to ground level.. Rain stopped. I was soaking wet and now the car is fine... Me: and my deck:

Looks good, though I'm a bit curious how is the handling. I had ET35 7" wide rims on the deck and it wasn't nice to drive at all. But I'm not saying more, because i had El Cheapo Barum Bravuris 2 tires on those, and I think those were worst tires I've ever had Even Nokian Hakkapeliitta RSi:s had more grip on wet road.. But have to say I'm waiting to see those wheels fitted!

Fuel rail in last picture is now machined for 14 mm O-rings. Next thing is to assemble 350 cc Injectors from Saab 9-3 SS (07-10) to intake manifold. Winter just feels that it's never ending now, last night it was -25C again.. Can't touch any plastic pieces without garage. Those Saab injectors have similar nozzle than RDX injectors and have also high impedance, flow is just right for B18C4 with E85, and because it's saab injector, it shouldn't have any problems with E85. And just 25 euros per injector, new, unused with warranty. But we'll see how it works out.

Oh you have the big fog lights, it's nice and different. Is there something wrong with your rear bumpers left side? Is there some fixings missing or is it just the picture?

As far as I'm seeing, this project is getting out of hands, like every project before something amazing starts to develop

That's mental, K20 would have been cool, seriously tuned K20 epic, but K engine with stroker set.. it's just mental

I hope it would help, but I have put a pic in my build thread about LHD versions cable, I think only difference is the lenght, but i think that is just the problem. At least the bracket is the same

Okay, some pics about "new" part, something I have had lying around for a while, but I just haven't had all the parts yet. So new throttle cabel and bracket to install it on top of Blox manifold. Fuel rail is there just for scale, but it's part of E85 conversion project going on silently in the backround Cable and bracket are belonging to LHD Integra Type-R (DC2), I only need throttle wire pulley from scrapyard from some civic, and some time..

No the picture you put here was with civic/GS-R throttle linkage, that's why wire is going to strange direction. Cable goes upwards because that variable lenght intake manifold is blocking if cable would go directly towards right (in the picture) ITR throttle wire bracket is mounting to those two holes on top of the manifold. I can give you the part numbers later this evening to find what is needed. good how to is found here: http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/howto/sk2manifold/ Like i think we all know, that US. GS-R engine is almost identical to MB6/MC2 engine and most of the things are just the same. Okay as edit: Okay I'm not going to give you part number for throttle wire, you might have different part because you have RHD car But just get one from RHD ITR..

I've been sick for last week, not much that I can do then.. Well, on Saturday I bought new windshield wipers, yey.. Pics? No, you have seen wipers in Civic..

You should get throttle wire and the throttle wire mounting bars from Integra type-r so throttle wire would sit nicely over the manifold. With Civic stuff you'll end up having throttle wire quite stupidly in the way of strut bar. I have that same problem and have all the other pieces for that conversion, except the wire pulley from some throttle body where wire is going to right directly, not upwards in angle like in civic/integra gs-r. But suitable pulley should be found in almost every 88 -> honda with 4point injenction except those B18C4/C1 engined ones. I just haven't had the time to find, I'll post pics when I found the pulley and can do the modifications. I don't have Skunk2 but Blox manifold, but still, same problem.