Karjis

Where do you get these diamonds, here it's impossible to find any M below 120k and most of them are closer to 200k. M:s are about 15 years old and average car user is driving 15k / year here, so calculating averages M:s should have done 225k, but okay most of them (all which are bought new here) are petrol and most drivers hitting 20k+ drive with diesels so M:s arent in that group, keeps mileage somehow sensible.

I have to say that by feeling, MB3 with small engine and long gear ratios loved to eat the highway with quite small fuel consumption even with higher speeds (like 90-100mph though Germany once). I thinkg oil consumption would be more reasonable if the engine would rev only like 3000-3500rpm on highway, so basically would need a sixth gear or way longer fifth. MC2 ate lots of fuel and some oil on highway and engine was yelling like driving in third gear with some other car. When cruising more than one hour without ever dropping speed below 70, it starts to annoy. The car went to guy who is not driving long distances usually and has experience on more powerful cars, so I think it is at good home.

240 is nice car to build, it's simple, reliable and parts can be found anywhere. And the best thing is that there is room to do almost anything in engine bay. Once removed 240 head in a middle of a field during winter after cambelt failure. Didn't need so much tools and took like 10 mins

Finally, sold mine and it just had 150k miles (240k kilometers actually) when sold.

Car had been running well. I acquired heated side mirror classes from "northern" version but didn't install them yet. Because I moved to different city and found out that I drive a lot, and most of my driving is Highway driving at quite high speed the MC2 is just not right car for that. It feels bad to keep engine screaming 4500-5000 rpm for more than an hour at a time. It just feels uncomfortable and also keeps oil burning. After renovations not so much but still needed regular attention to keep oil at a right level. So I made a decision and sold my MC2 and got a diesel car for exhange. During last week I've again driven 1000 miles with avg. speed of 65mph (Winter speed limits, 100km/h in highway, here already, boooring) so I'm quite sure I made a right decision. I'll come back to Honda, but propably a bit newer one. But that said, this project ended on last sunday, at least for me.

Yeap I checked how it was done from factory in my old MB3. Just need to find a suitable wreck to donate parts.

I'm silent but haven't stopped working with the car. I finally bought the throttle wire pulley from MA..something, but still version where throttle wire leaves the throttle body to the manifold direction. Not outside like in B18C4 normally does. Now the "upwards-model" bracket is making it impossible to install the front strut support like it should. So next job would be installing the pulley, Integra throttle cable and of course bracket for throttle cable. All parts are with me and shouldn't be a big job. Pics will follow after the job is done. I'm also trying to get essential winter supplies for my car. It's german import so it lacks such basic things like heated seats and mirrors. I got heated mirrors from scrapyard (from MB3) but because mirror case is black, I have to change the heated mirror glasses to my current body coloured mirror cases. I'll post more when I get the job done also.. Reasonable priced supplies for heated seats are still not found. I need lots of parts, buttons (between AC and Recirculation buttons, those two blanks were seat heaters in my old MB3), relay boxes and seat heater wire harnesses also. Not to mention heated seats where I can remove the heater elements and wire for installing to MC2 seats. Scrapyard MB3 lacked heated seats so it wasn't helping.

And remember that B-series head gasket is 3-layer metal gasket, so if it leaks, you propably have warped head or block. So it will need machining if leaking. Metal gasket itself is really strong and won't "burn" easily.

Feeling of torque might have something to do that I still have B18C4 stock-exhaust manifold. I had 4-1 manifold but it is awful and also ruined because two lowest pipes are bent because of speed bump. So I think I'm losing lots of high end power now because my exhaust mani is restricting. I've been thinking and tried to think differences between ITR stock manifold and Supersprint 4-2-1 manifold. But we'll see! .. Soon I think. And NIKH, amount of torque is just where you compare the engine. Real figures aren't known now or not in near future, maybe later.

Yeap! I've driven about 200 kilometers today, runs strong and no additional noises or anything like that. Runs smoother and pulls stronger now. No information about oil consumption yet, but hope it won't burn oil anymore. If it does I don't know what to do Sound is awesome with B18C6 pistons and camshafts. The ROARRR when hitting vtec, it's not actually louder than with stock cams but now the sound is just more powerful. And during normal driving it pulls hard also, no loss of mid-rev power. Of course I drove somewhat carefoully because bearings are new, it was already driven 150km before trying to hit vtec even the first time. Amazing and fun because it just picks up speed at highway cruising so easily.

Big enough tools found. So.. 3/4" Atlas Copco impact wrench, with 1/2" air hose and 8bar pressure finally the crankshaft bolt opened. And after that big obstacle was out, I got rest of the things done. - New spark plugs - New fluids filled - New timing belt (Honda) & tensioner (Koyo) - New auxliary belts (Gates) - Everything assembled. And biggest thing today: - Test start done! Tomorrow (today.. it's 2:47 am here..) it's time for test drive.

Change the switch. My both M:s have started the rad fan with no prob, with needle in quite normal temp. Just a some time idling during summer and fan kicks in. The sensor itself shouldn't be hard to change. Haven't driven in Ahvenisto with deck, I hope that I have the possibility this autumn, It's definitely great track.

I think that problem is related to civic front suspension somehow. Because really every civic I have owned have suffered the same thing. It's somehow the combination of front suspension movements, engine moving and all that combined with wheels hopping. Changing some variable, like engine mount stiffness might stop the bouncing when frequency with parts bouncing is different. With EF it calmed down with new front shocks and springs. And in MB I only suffered the problem with sticky tires (Toyo T1R). With my deck the problem was worst with winter wheels and wet road, but with stickier tires and the effect is much less noticeable. Also front shock rebound adjustment seems to have quite significant effect. Bouncing is much less noticeable if rebound adjustment is turned a bit stiffer. For stickier tires harder bushes in lower wishbone makes the the front end more calm also. NIKH25: LSD doesn't really have any effect for the thing, with even grip civic is usually anyway spinning both wheels so LSD has no work then. LSD doesn't actually know are the wheels spinning or not. It just reacts to speed/torque difference between right and left wheel.

That colour looks great, really nice and deep colour.

Epic build. cleaning the wiring can save some weight and make maintenance easier. What material you are planning to use for final dashboard?

Day 4 ended without opening the bolt. Engine is almost fully assembled except the valve cover and timing belt. Also camshafts are just lifted to its place without tightening any bolts so all valves stay closed. That's so I won't damage any valves if engine rotates. Because I did not get the bolt to open. Now work started again so I can visit garage only in weekends. I'll get a good 3/4" pneumatic impact wrench to open the bolt. I also tried with one meter long breaker bar, but I just broke all the tools I tried to lock the pulley in place. But okay, impact wrench powerful enough + heat is the next option. Then after that fight with the bolt next thing is just to tighten all bolts keeping camshafts in place, replace the timing belt and put the covers on. Then I just need to add oil and coolant. But now deck is sitting in garage and waiting for next weekend.

Day 4 started early I tried using 3/4" Fein electric impact wrench to open the bolt at the end of crankshaft. It did not move! Specs stated that it should have 750Nm of torque, but I think that rental machine was worn out and not having the power anymore. Well but at least I woke up the neighbours trying to open the bolt with the impact wrench at 7:20 am. But well.. head bolts on to make some progress.

And day 3 is over. All valves cleaned, springs changed, lost motion springs changed to Skunk 2 ones. Head is on but tightening the bolts is what is first thing tomorrow. I tried to open bolt at the end of crankshaft. No luck yet. Had only 55cm wrench so with my weight it makes about 400Nm as torque. Not opening yet. But tomorrow it will..

So it's sunny outside. Nice 23 degrees with a little wind. Perfect day to begin day 3. Today: -valve springs out -cleaning the valves etc. -ITR valve springs in. And I hope that head is back on the engine at the end of the day.

Yeah, that oil stain is there by -04 VW Transporter, can't blame any of my Hondas for that I'm working at my fathers garage and his work van decided last winter not to like it's oil after cold start. Breather froze so it pushed oils out through dipstick hole after starting. Just a reason of bad design. And K7000, Honda engines are just big pile of adult legos like Tom said. It's not difficult but requires some knowledge about how to measure clearances etc. But with green Haynes book "Honda Civic 1995 to 2000" you'll do almost everything. It also has good list about tightening torques and clearances. Of course Honda service manuals are excellent help. Honda manuals help to do things the right way how Honda has designed thins to be done.

Ahaha, yea right Todays work: Oil pan off Crankshaft bearing out Old pistons out Quick honing for cylinder walls "New" pistons (ITR) with new rings and measuring etc done. New crankshaft bearings and checking clearances with plastigauge. New connecting rod big end bearings and checking clearances with plastigauge.. Oil pan back after cleaning. So phew.. day 2 finished worked from 11am to 10pm. Tomorrow day 3 will be headwork day.

So basically only pic I got today was after lunch with somehow clean hands I also forgot my Ixus to home and I only have phone to get some pics. But I'll try to take some photos tomorrow morning before my hands are again oily. So.. Head without cams. Nothing to see here, moving on.

Okay so I finished my day at garage about at 10 pm. Some relatives arrived unnoticed to visit so I spent 3 hours doing nothing. Day 1: Head is off, fluids are out. Didn't have the energy to remove oil sump anymore today, it's first thing tomorrow. I've been changing oils more often so head is much cleaner than it was last autumn. No black stuff all around anymore. Cylinder walls are fine, factory hone marks are nicely visible so no worries with that. Rings might be jammed somehow. Cylinder walls are quite oily when piston is down, so it is burning. But okay it's no surprise that b-series engine has oil rings stuck after 230 000 km (144kmiles). And previous owner used some el cheapo oils so engine was dirty. Took short 750km test drive during weekend with E85, 9 liters / 100km was the consumption so I basically save 30% with fuel costs with finnish prices. But okay now this nice days spending working with the engine. It's surprisingly relaxing when weather is nice and not having to hurry.

Okay Found the manual from audiobahn website: Here It shows that audiobahn speaker is suitable for quite big range of boxes. But like the manual page 8 tells you, the box size should be between 1.5 and 2.5 cubic feet. Id say your box is at the smaller and when knowing the measurements of MB boot. Could be quite close to that 1.5 cubic ft. So you should try 3 inch diameter port with length of 6.5 to 7 inches. If your box is smaller, use a bit longer tube and if it's larger use shorter tube. That is a good starting point. 4 inch diameter should be then a bit longer, 9-11 inches, calculate for more detail. Tune of ported box tells quite a lot how it sounds, if tune is low you'll get more low end bass and also good power handling for lower notes. If tune is high you'll get lots of upper bass and no control at all with lowest notes. Ported box usually boost the frequencies around the box tune. Tune of ported box is defined only by box volume and measures of port, so it's easy to calculate and there are like tens of calculators found from internet. Just insert box volume and port diameter and length. Here is one calculator Looks like that Audiobahn has made the recommended boxes with about 37-40Hz tune. It's good for car environment because interior volume of car boosts lowest frequencies and so to get a flat response, 30-40Hz tune is good point to start searching best sound. That seat shaking bass is found by taking tune a bit lower to boost the lowest end. 30-35Hz tune and enough power gives you the nice feeling of power. By comparing audiobahn recommendations and your wishes, good aim is to put 35hz tune to calculator and see what kind of port your enclosure would need. 15 minutes measuring and calculating is hours saved in trial and error experiments.

So today it begins! Day 1: Disassemble half of the engine. Goal is to remove fluids then head and oil sump. If I have time start to disassemble the head by removing valve springs and clean what I can.