mc2hammer

Sorry for the delay, thanks Sir Paperbag/ Patrick ! I already have bright halogen H4s fitted, Philips, extreme/ race vision or whatever, as you say, theyre ok but still not great. the fog light idea is good, thanks. maybe with LED bulbs in there ? I have found some LEDs that look good, there are plenty available for not too silly money, will maybe try these but looks like might need to doctor the rubber boot, to clear the heatsink/ fan portion on these bulbs. I have cleaned the h/light lens as best I can, but have got a polishing kit to take out the remaining haziness, used just the polish so far but i think need to 'man up' and try the wet and dry. I see AKR have new units available from Depo at reasonable price, so that's an option. the other thing of course with halogens is to ensure the voltage drop is not excessive, previous car I fitted a relay kit, not an issue with LEDs as they operate from 8V. and current is lower. Re the switch it's ok at the moment so probably just needs a good clean with contact cleaner. below was the page I found, M series switch might be similar. thanks again. https://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/routine-maintenance-diys-73/diy-combination-switch-fix-headlight-switch-74275/

headlight / indicator combo switch started playing up, result being lost headlights whilst driving, which is a bit disconcerting. found some info on how to disassemble the switch and clean contacts etc, if the one in the 'deck is the same, just wondering if anyone has tried this, or whether replacement combo switches available ? have used contact cleaner on the ignition switch several times when that has been iffy and that seemed to cure it. also on the subject of headlights, they are pants, especially vs. modern LED units which are insanely bright. I have upgraded bulbs fitted (of course) but what are the other options ? e.g. anyone tried HIDs in place of the halogen H4s ? I saw a thread on here where someone had fitted projectors into the original light units so that looks kind of do-able - maybe ! But nothing when you search HID on this forum - strangely !? Or are HIDs out of favour now because LED bulb replacements are so good ? that's the other option I guess. thanks

thank you Roverjoe, appreciated. I have looked for inner arches but seems just outer panels available, e.g. sills and outer wheel arch. so I guess would have to fabricate my own sections for the inner. have seen you can get Zintec sheet that looks good for the job. and, yes dr_broon, I have seen the thread, need to find time to go through it properly, but looks v helpful. thanks RJ !

Yes Simon thanks - very promptly in fact - they have said send it back and we will take a look, and either repair or replace. all very well but that means taking the darn thing off again and car is off the road whilst they take a look. ideally I would have another I could swap it out with. and of course this is driver's side so that is oil out job, unlike t'other side with the intermediate shaft (need to look at doing that one as well). I have since had another look at the offending part and noticed that the boot on the inboard joint side is pinched in one place, so Im wondering if this is the issue. it appears this is often caused by negative pressure - if so admitting air into the CV joint might be the answer. will see if there is any wiggle room under the gaiter clip to create a small air gap. AKR have some other (TrakMotive) not ridiculously priced driveshafts on their website that I had looked at before, but I went with the j&r as they were quick and easy (UK based) (and cheap). Cheers bud

thanks both, what thickness/ gauge steel should I be using do you know ?

many thanks both, I had a quick look for repair panels yesterday, they do exist but not found for inner arch yet. also not sure how they compare e.g. in thickness terms with OE body shell ? suggestions on best place to buy the panels appreciated. otherwise I will just carry on googling. ours has been garaged (unheated though) so it is out of the weather, except when used - it's still the daily driver.

Hi all, the lower inner part of rear wheel arch on my Aerodeck VTi has some rust, which I have been aware of for a while but, on further investigation tonight, the near side has gone, i.e. it gives when you push it, the offside feels more solid. need to cut out to see how big the hole is, doubtless it will be gone on the sill section too. similar to this link (Adzvtis pics) just wondered if MB6/ MC2 are same in this area, and if repair panels are available (e.g. Rover 400 etc) , if rust is localised enough (yet to be determined) I guess patches can be fabricated and welded in. Also are there any how to guides, Roverjoe was doing a vid on his MB6 resto I believe. I had the sill front section and jacking points professionally done several years ago but the work cost a bomb then and so I think will have to tackle the rear section myself. many thanks

Just a quick update on this, the new driveshaft is squeaking occasionally which is clearly audible at low speed, reading up on this this could be due to a tight joint, but driveshaft is brand new ? I have gone back to J&R will see what they say but has anyone else experienced this ? want to change out the other side but not totally convinced re J&R (could just be unlucky) but there don't seem to be too many other options without paying big bucks for uprated ones (car is bog standard). e.g. like the ones available from The Driveshaft Shop. thanks

Just a quick update on this, the new driveshaft is squeaking occasionally which is clearly audible at low speed, reading up on this this could be due to a tight joint, but driveshaft is brand new ? I have gone back to J&R will see what they say but has anyone else experienced this ? want to change out the other side but not totally convinced re J&R (could just be unlucky) but there don't seem to be too many other options without paying big bucks for uprated ones (car is bog standard). e.g. like the ones available from The Driveshaft Shop. thanks

thanks for that. pretty sure the spare rotor arm I have has a screw hole as it is gen honda and quite old now. though I will need a new bolt/ screw to secure the rotor. dizzy bolts look quite meaty so "should" be ok. dizzy will, presumably, need marking to get timing right again when refitting, though it could prob do with the timing checking as it sounds like it is pinking under load. something else I need to get sorted, any ideas if it is not the timing ? knock sensor issue perhaps ? are there any "how to"s on this topic (timing/ tuning etc) ? I will have a look at access with air box out, but this job will be fiddly so best done on a bench. I guess a complete new/ refurb dizzy is the other option, but would like to keep the original one if poss.

sorry no pics of spam for you spam lovers, but Yokohamas good if you only need dry grip ?

Strangely no replies on this but an update, for those interested. Well I got her going and now starts fine again. I don't think anything was wrong as such, as it had been running fine, so I just cranked and tickled the throttle until it eventually caught and started. But, as well as the plugs, I did change the dizzy cap and cleaned up the rotor arm with a needle file which looked tasty. So I'm sure this all helped. I have had a new rotor arm and have been meaning to change it for some time, but not able to get old one off as bolt is seized. A common problem I believe. I have read that cutting off the rotor arm, which is just plastic largely, and getting needle nose vice grips (aka mole wrench/ pliers ) on the exposed head of the bolt is the way to go ?? Another issue is that the dizzy cap lower bolt is particularly exposed to the elements and has sheared, leaving the threaded hole in the distributor blocked. It will need drilling out carefully and re-threading/ tapping but, due to location, that looks like it has to be a dizzy out job ?? Emissions was fun again this year btw, MOT tester says cat has to be really hot and is too far back, so a new one wouldn't necessarily help. As usual, any thoughts/ feedback on any of this is always appreciated folks !

My trusty and, so far, very reliable Aerodeck 1.8Vti refuses to start :-( It turns over/ cranks but doesn't fire. Have fitted new spark plugs and checked a spark is present. Fuel pump runs for 2 secs as it should when ignition is switched on, and there is definitely pressure as evidenced by fuel present at the outlet of the fuel filter i.e. input to fuel rail. So must be the fuel injectors ??? either all faulty (hard to believe) or not receiving their control signal from the PCM. MIL is not indicating a fault code / DTC is present. I can check injector resistance but it's not going to be all four. I could check a pulse is getting to the injectors using an oscilloscope ? I am at a loss - I guess something could be preventing the PCM from pulsing the injectors, (e.g. faulty sensor) but wouldn't that trigger a DTC ? Any ideas please please please folks ? thanks

Thanks, ordered yesterday and part has arrived already, so can't fault their service. On initial inspection it looks ok, fingers crossed all will be good and will fit etc, but was assured by J&R it was the correct part for the vehicle, so can do no more than that.

thanks both, are you happy with J&R then dr_broon, you must be if you have fitted them twice, only I have read some rather mixed reviews (they seem too cheap ?). AKR Performance have TrakMotive part which costs 3.5x the J&R part but, if you reckon the J&R is ok, then I might as well stick that in and give it a whirl, so to speak. I'm hoping to fit it myself, as the job doesn't look too difficult (famous last words) ?? As per title of thread, I only have the VTi not Vti-S btw, if that makes any difference, I need to correct my profile description.