Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/01/2025 in all areas

  1. Thanks.. Suppose which diff depends on your budget and goals. I've put a black line helical diff in this. Seems to work as intended, however I did only choose it as got a fantastic deal on it. 350ish brand new delivered from somewhere. Matt Lewis racing possibly. Not aggressive at all but locks up when plant your foot. I've had a m factory race pack diff previously, that was very good. I believe quaife etc are bit steeper but often you get what you pay for. Obvs plates diffs are noisier and do wear out eventually.
    1 point
  2. I don't have it to hand but I will check the car next time I am with it and let you know (it's not parked at my house unfortunately) - probably at the weekend If it helps there are some results for the rover part number (RGD10001) on autodoc RGD10-001 A.B.S., ASHIKA | RGD10001 in AUTODOC
    1 point
  3. I noticed the same thing but honestly I am not sure of the positives/negatives of each type - I think the style you show in your photo will also work fine, it's just a different design. It seems like Rover prefer the flat piece of metal and Honda use the rod type. Personally I would go with the Rover style as its guaranteed to fit but I think either will probably work OK.
    1 point
  4. Beautiful car! LSD and eventually a turbo and is on my list of "eventually" plans for Phase 2 of my car (I best actually drive it in "Phase 1" first though...) Which LSD did you go for? I'm thinking a Quaife ATB might be the way to go (so my friend tells me anyway) but im undecided at the moment
    1 point
  5. Welcome, and nice work so far :) For the anti roll bar - I fitted a Rover 20mm (from an MG ZS 180) unit and used the following parts, if it helps (I keep meaning to make a post about this as I struggled to find the info when I was sorting mine out). I imagine most of the parts are similar to the 16mm, according to the internet the drop links are the same, only the bushes changed to accommodate the thinner bar. 1x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar (#1 in diagram) 20mm thickness. Not available new any more. 2x MGZS Anti-Roll Bar Mounting L Brackets (#6 in diagram) Should come with the ARB above. As above, no longer available new 8x M8x16 Bolts (#12 in diagram) Part number FS108161 4x for mounting the arm L bracket to the car 4x for bushing holder clamp https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/fs108161-bolt-flanged-m8-x-16mm-multiple-applications-all-models?_pos=1&_sid=8a59d95b9&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to car (#9 in diagram) Part number RYG10035 + WC110061 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/bolt-flanged-head-anti-roll-bar-link-to-lower-arm-rover-200-400r8-400-45-zs-ryg10035?_pos=1&_sid=55e521b1c&_ss=r 2x Bolts + washers for drop links to ARB (#11 in diagram) Rover part number RYG10034 Honda part number 90162-SK3-000 BOLT, RR. STABILIZER LINK (M10X50) https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RYG10034 2x ARB Drop links (#7 in diagram) Part number RGD10001 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-400-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-bush-kit-rgd10001 2x ARB bush bracket (#4 in diagram) Part number EGP1714 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mgf-tf-rover-45-mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-bracket-egp1714-genuine-mg?variant=43335747174563 2x Rear Anti Roll Bar Bracket Bush 20mm (#2 in diagram) Powerflex PFR42-515-20 Superflex 0266/20K Rover Part number RGX10017 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mg-zs-rear-anti-roll-bar-bushes-rgx10017-superflex-pair?_pos=3&_sid=9ed9f4d9a&_ss=r 1x Powerflex Rear Anti Roll Bar Link Bush Kit (#3 and #8 in diagram) PFR25-111 Part Number RGX10003 https://www.tegiwa.com/products/powerflex-road-series-rear-anti-roll-bar-link-kit-honda-civic-ej-ek-ballade-95-05 2x ARB end metal bush collar (not included with Powerflex kit - #5 in diagram) Part number RGX10004 https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-200-400-600-45-zs-rear-trailing-arm-anti-roll-bar-collar-rgx10004?variant=44419224240291
    1 point
  6. Cheers - thats what we ended up doing in the end and it worked, The pedal has a lot of free play at the top so I need to adjust the pushrod and the bump stopper thing at the top, will tackle that next time
    1 point
  7. Use a syringe and back fill the clutch slave btw. I do this on most things works a treat on clutch motorcycle brakes etc
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...