SilverVti

Nah. The oxygen sensor is after the manifold and before the cat. So the o2 sensor feeds back info about output after the manifold and therefore whatever goes into the cat, the ecu/o2 sensor doesn't care/monitor. This is unlike later cars that measure the output coming out of the cat and compare the output prior to and after the cat, and may adjust the mix accordingly. In my case, changing out the oem cat for a total new exhaust system front to back made b****r all difference.

Hmm been trying to sort this for a few years now. Changed the entire exhaust system, plugs, rotor, lamba and still shows above 0.6 %Co.

Hi Anyone got any suggestions on how to get an exchange or refurb power steering / rack unit for a Vti ? It's a different unit to the lower engine sizes and seems to be unique to that vehicle. It's leaking oil and can't be repaired by a regular garage. The OEM part number is 53600-ST3-E52 but Honda have long since given up selling them. Thanks in advance

It seems Amazon are stopping stocking car parts and loads are going at knock down prices. cabin and air filters both dor £5.50 disty cap for £4 ignition cables for a fiver and get this ...... A pair of MB6 brake discs for £8.13 see here for details http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/loads-car-parts-sold-amazon-90-more-off-amazon-2480934?page=13#comments

Well that was pretty straightforward. About an hour with a local independent mechanic, job done. Seems to have a good sound, not larey, not blowy. Certainly pongs a bit and nice silver coloured exhaust now coating the exit of the tail pipe. We didn't get as far as valves or disty. The mechanic felt if it was valves that would be suggested by sluggish starting - which isn't a problem. I'll give it a few weeks to settle in and will then re-check emissions probably at MOT time. Should also have a better view of fuel consumption by then too. Ta for the tips guys.

Never. That's a head off job isn't it? Sounds pricy and beyond my skills. How bout compression test - would that be an easier first step?

I've taken the polunge and have a complete system ready to go on the car. The sum total of the parts was £ 130 including all new bolts, springs, rubber mounts and gaskets. After having a runaround with Euro Car parts I've got a BM Catalysts BM90551 which is a pattern part and non type approved. It was just over £40 !!! BM supply manufacturers, and Euro Car parts under the Euro car parts sub-brand React. It sounds like a cat is a cat, certainly for this age car. Type approved cats are required for cars sold after 2001 which need a more expensive version that has more precious metals in it. Also on some newer cars a sensor AFTER the cat allows the ECU to measure whether the cat is working or not (by comparing O2/lamba readings going into and out of the cat) This Civic doesn't hjave that so there is no way to check the cat is working other than changing it and seeing if the readings improve. If they do, then happy days - If they don't I guess it means I have an engine in need of attention. However based on how well it runs, I'm not expecting that. Fingers crossed. I haven't changed the distributor and rotor and the HC wasn't high in any case. I haven't changed the O2 sensor as the readings are fine coming out of the exhaust. The Honda service manual doesn't give all the info I've needed, and exhaust systems whether it be Klarius/Arvin/Timax or BM Catalysts also don't correctly list all of the parts - eg the gasket between the replacement cat and mid section was a tricky one. If anyone needs a set of part numbers I can post it. Anyway, I'm gonna get my hands dirty tomorrow - I'll report back as to how it goes ! More reading ..... there is a short explanation of how cats work here http://www.bmcatalysts.co.uk/technical-information/ and here about O2 sensors http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/understanding_oxygen_sensors.asp and here about you can see what emissions your car is meant to meet looking at the government handbook here https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-18th-edition

So a few weeks down the road after replacing oil, filter and spark plugs it seems more responsive. I had the aircon done today for £22 at ATS vua a groupon deal. I've not yet done enough miles to check if consumption is any different. My local friendly MOT tester did an emissions check today and the lambda reading was fine but CO output was too high. His suspicions are the cat converter is shot and this will lead to low fuel consumption and higher emissions. Does that sound right ??. The back end is several years old and probably ready for the skip so I'm thinking of replacing the cat and everything behind it. Any suggestions for compatible parts peoples ?? I'm looking for cheap as opposed to performance, and not interested in removing bits like the cat if they either need to be taken off or fiddled with for an MOT. Oh and by the way, I've noticed this went for £1800 - it's even tidier than my one by the looks of it. Did someone here buy it ? http://offer.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=291785817754&showauto=true

Did it make any difference changing the lamba ??

So in the end I went with Bosch spark plugs - FR 78 X - they have 4 electrodes at the tip - only cost £13 from euro car parts, some Shell Helix 10-40 oil, a bosch oil filter (somewhat of a nightmare getting Euro car parts to supply the correct one - they supplied the wrong one twice mistakenly giving me a 1.4/1/6 first then a type R next.) I also treated it to some oil flush. I then did the ECU reset using the excellent guide. After this lot and the air and pollen filters I'm hoping it'll goes much better ...... or my right foot is heavier. Or maybe the oxygen sensor is next combined with leads, distrib cap and rotor .... do these actually have a rotor arm these days ? Ta for the tips. Lets see if the fuel economy improves.

Thanks for the tips guys. The pollen filter is now brand spanking new and the changed resistor pack has restored the fan to normal ! I've just been looking through he service manual and notice that there is an adjustment for the idle speed setting. I think I may try and check this at the same time as changing the plugs and oil. On the subject of oil, I'm planning on 10/40 - any thoughts aside from buying some pixie dust synthetic stuff (that I won't be tempted into doing by some marketing speak ;-)) Re plugs, I have been playing with eurocar parts site today and have a dilemma. They state either Bosch 0 242 229 576 AKA Bosch FR 7 LCX+ which I believe is also known as the NGK 4291 or Bosch 0 242 235 667 aka Bosch FR7DCX+ which i believe is also known as the NGK 7121 Apart from the aforementioned sprinkling of pixiedust relating to kryptonite benefits of space ready precious metals, is there any real difference between them all ??? (you may detect a large portion of cynicism/sarcasm as you may have gathered I'm not that partial to marketing bulls**t when it comes to spending anything other than the bare minimum unless there's a real proven advantage). (and I've had a glass of wine) cheers !

Thanks for the responses.... I have loved this car every minute I have it! So i have replaced both rear brake cylinders and pads and fairly recently had a slow puncture that may have both had an impact, but fingers crossed at the moment I don't suspect any remaining issues - but good suggestion. It's done 103k, with the bottom block being replaced at 30k (under warranty thankfully). Not thought about fuel filter but it still goes like s*** off a shovel, so don't think it's not getting the fuel I've just taken out the coil pack (2nd time to replace it), so I guess an air filter and plugs won't go amis while I'm doing the pollen filter. Perhaps give the plugs a clean/gap check. Any suggestion on cheap parts welcome. How would the bearings be noticeable other than MOT "twerking" and shuddering at speed (both ok)? Thanks SilverVti

Hi I've been running my Vti from new in 1998 and have tracked fuel consumption since the start (yeah I know ). Fuel consumption has consistently averaged 31/30 from the start until a around 2-3 years ago when consumption dropped gradually to 23/24 mpg where it has remained ever since. I've not done a lot of miles in recent years but it's been used regularly. I did reset the ECU in 2010 but it made no difference. Any suggestions on how to restore fuel consumption other than to check plugs and get a new engine ?? Thanks in advance. SilverVti

Thanks chaps. I dIdn't have time to think about it when I posted but now you guys mention it.... switch. I gave it a few tweaks and it came back to life. It was prob sticking. The car just flew through the MOT. Thanks everyone.

Hi Any ideas on why the brake lights would stay on all the time ? The battery went flat a couple of weeks ago (only 6 months old and have 8 month old regulator). After getting the battery recharged, I noticed the brake lights were on all the time. Went round the block and did a few sharp stops to make sure they were not rusted on but no joy. Any ideas ? Thanks

Thanks for the tips. The original parts seem hard to come by on ebay 2nd hand but perhaps the traders here can make some suggestions. I guess the rover part will also fit so might also look in that direction.

HI The driver's door electric window just decided to break. Fortunately we were on the way to local dealer to pick up the wife's MK9 and they kindly agreed to have a quick look. They reported that the gear had broken and I need a replacement regulator mechanism. This'll cost £332 to supply and fit. EEk ! They did suggest that a compatible part may work, I was thinking more breakers yard ..... but does anyone have any experience in doing this ??? I can get the door card off no trouble, just wondered what was involved in replacing the mechanism and where a replacement might be sourced. Thanks

All sorted now. It was the alternator. After 2 failed attempts to source the right one, the 3rd was fitted and the problem just went away. No more error codes, no need to reset ABS/SRS. All back to normal now. Thanks for your help . Now I have to deal with the rust on that rear wheel arch ...... shame Honda didn't do the recall right all those years ago.

Hmmmm thanks Nick Battery at 12 v before starting battery at 18.8v when just started (dash lights fluttering) (seems to be overcharging) battery at 17.5v ABS + ERS coming on and off battery at 13v after turning off. Methinks alternator might be the problem after looking at this fairly useful guide Anyone agree ??? I haven't yet had the bottle to put my arm into the alternator !!

Hi I have one of the 522 remaining Vti 5 doors remaining in the UK according to here I love the car and have had it from new. Despite convincing the missus to buy a new 1.6 diesel which is great, I want to hang on to my Vti because it's a Vti. (you know what I mean if you have one). I haven't tried to put it forward to be car of the week on this site but I'm playing a long game - a little bit like last man standing LOL. Anyway, I have an odd error code and wondered if anyone could help. On starting up, the car starts but all of the lights on the dash seem to glimmer rather than come on fully. After a few seconds they all come on strong and the ABD and ERS lights go out. (well most of the time). I then set off and either one or both of them come on and either stay on or go off after a few seconds. It's pretty random. I have tried the ERS reset proceedure here and it seemed to work but then come back again. I have checked the error code here it comes up with error code 6 1. It suggests an ignition voltage issue IE faulty battery, faulty charging systyem, faulty modulator. Which seems reasonable. The car isn't used much and did have a flat battery a few weeks ago. The battery is only a couple of years old. so the finger points to the 2 other bits, modulator or charging system. So the question is, how does one check these 2 parts, and what would the suggestion be ??? Thanks in advance

Hi all All sorted now. Thanks for everyone's help including Graham at JohnBanksHonda who can still do the clutch at a blinding £140 DELIVERED. In the end I went with a Mr Clutch who offered an all in price of £310 incl fitting as my regular mechanic couldn't squeeze it in. So unfortunately Graham didn't get my call back. My local Honda dealer quoted several prices just for parts starting at a ridiculous £279 for the 3 parts individually. After much haggling they did offer 18% discount and then lower it again to £219. I told them to stuff it as johnbanks could do it for £140. They then matched that but said they were making bu**** all out of it. My heart bleeds for the money grabbing sods. So anyone who can get it fitted themselves or on a labour only basis I wholeheartedly recommend Graham at JohnBanksHonda. Thanks again for the advice guys.

Wow thanks for the advice chaps. So do I need the kit that has the bearing, cover and plate do you think ? I'll look up johnbankshonda straight away. I have identified a few on ebay that are compatibles, but obviously the OEM would be better Thanks muchly

Hi Any clues on this ??? Trundling along at 60 today in outside lane overtaking juggernaut. Enjoying the engine as usual ..... can't change up at all, can't change down. The clutch goes all the way down but can't engage any gear. Manage to pull off the road to a side road and still can't get any gear. Fortunately got enough momentum to not cause a crash LOL. Swerve into a local garage and mechanic says it's the clutch gone. Clutch goes down nearly to bottom before biting. Manage to enage gear and limp home. OK I've done 93k and not had a new clutch since new. Anyone got any suggestions please ? Do I need a completely new clutch and does it need the engine out as the mechanic suggested ?? How much is this likely to cost ?? It's a Silver 1.8 Vti 1998 5 door. Thanks in advance