E=MC2

As far i can write off bleeding, oil and bushing as cause of the problem. Both cylinders work fine. There was half liter missing, so we refill it. Bushing and joints are mechanicaly tightened with big pliers, and now lever is precise and firm. Buth, problem is still present, maybe sligtly better because of better joints. Friend mechanic said that only fork, or something else in gearbox is problem, so the box will need to go down. At least, while waiting to get free time in garage, car is now fairly usable, with some convincing to go in reverse from time to time. Untill new updates, thank you all for opinions and tips

As i said above, clutch set is les than year old, presses still smooth, and no funny noises like bearing one, i am sure that i would hear it, even if it is in beggining of dying stage. I am waiting for some free time to go to the mechanic. We talk this morning, we will start from linkage, and bleeding of the cylinders. After that i might replace oil with new one. Ill give you update, as soon as i got one. Cross fingers for me

This morning reverse works noticeable better . Ill anyway check bleeding and bushing.

I would be more than happy if those few easy trick do the job. Ill do them, and let you know the result.

Clutch is like half a year old, and it is not much tortured. Some harder start in 1st gear, or some other harder shift, but very rarely . Pedal feel is soft, smooth and consistant, without any dropping or hardening areas. I would like to underline that other gears are much softer to engage compared to reverse. Also, same situation is on engine turned off, when clutch shouldnt have much influence.

Guys, for a longer period i have something like tiny grinding on slow shifts and slightly not so smooth shifting, which i solve with double clutchnig or faster shifting. Along with this, reverse gear somethimes doesnt want to engage, and after s**ting to any fwd gear, it slides in. Pretty common issue, as i can read. Beside this, all the time lever is light and clicking precise. But, few days ago, after night in garrage, gear lever at once became hard to engage. Rest of the gears work as before, only reverse is problem. Like it is jammed somehow, and needs more pull. Sometimes it slide smoother. It is the same both with engine on and off. Any ideas?

Fckng distributor arm was cause of this mess

I have tried swapping sides, no result. Also tried change of timing, also nothing. Timing cannot make such a big mess that it want ignite. We unmounted one injector to try it on MB. Can we make some problem during instalation back. Sealing, air...?

Can be some of the engine sensors? Tdc, crank...?

Mb's dizzy is unfortunately broken, thats why i took of my one. Mbs has rusted amd broken arm, and rusted tdc sensor. It is my old dizzy with bad seal, so moisture made mess inside.

I dont know what else can be. Today i have tried my old cables, which were replaced even they work corectly. No ignition. Also tried with starter spray, and no ignition. So i can exclude fuel as a problem. It must be something with eletricity, but i am bangin my head to the wall what the problem it might be. Maybe ground, but car run like a dream before it sudenly died, without moving car one milimeter from it was parked and without touching anything but the distributor. Edit: i am lying, we took of fuel rail to borrow one injector, but we place it back as it was. And as i said, i think that fuel is not problem

Hello guys. Please dont be angry if i mistake subforum. 7 days ago my deck VTi suddenly died. Had working well for a long time. 7 days ago, i took of distributor and cables, and swap them for a test on MB6. MB hardly starded because of jammed injector, but even with my injector, had problems with starting. But its starded. After that, i just unmount everything and mount back to my engine, and problem. Pretty same symptoms like on MB6. Car or dont start at all, or start, but had chocking on 2k rpm when i press gas pedal. If i run over those revs, engine or choke again, or accept gas up to limiter. It idle perfectly. And then, no ignition at all. Yestertay i ordered new ignitor, and same symptoms, but this time it starts easier, but again hard. Sometimes it start up after 1-2 seconds, sometimes it cranks for a long time, and it sometimes start, sometimes engine got loud crank noise with loud suction noise in air filter, and no ignition or like ignition in reverse. Also tried to put on other used cap, and no benefits. Car runs on petrol and LPG, and before this it worked perfectly on both fuels. Now it acts the same on both fuels, so i doubt that the fueling is the problem. Ignition coil is replaced 5 months ago. Every cable drops spark on engine block with scredriver spark test. Spark plug is dry. Cap and rotor looks pretty goor. Distributer interior is dry, and rust free. Change of engine timing also doesnt make any difference. In the dark there is no visible spakring either on distributor or somewhere on the cables. Do anyone know what might be, i am desperate.

do not excuse, be my guest, great video @dexter - as i can see, your driving conditions are pretty similar to mine here, so nordic tires would be great option. Also i saw some nordic vs normal winters comparison test, and i couldn belive how much difference they produce. But then i got cold shower when i sow prices . I need to correct you. Vtec + snow + LSD + massive understeer can be quite a lot of fun

Hm, it make sence. My last 2 cars have lsd (mc2 and s14 sx), so maybe i forgot how open diff car act on snow You've made my day :D :D

Sure, it is LSD's point, but on snow it force both wheels to spin, and if car stay on place they dig own holes, and instantly make ice

No wory man, just kidding , as you said, better ever than never. Speaking of Conti's , maybe i'll consider Dunlop Winterresponce 2, as they won second place on ADAC test, and they are much easier and cheaper to find. Here's adac results http://www.adac.de/infotestrat/tests/reifen/winterreifen/2013_winterreifen_Test_185_60_R15.aspx Serbia is very new in paypal system, so there are many sellers that dont have option for sending here. Allso there are shiping costs, greedy thieving customs officers (some packages just wanish ), and tough procedure for achieved warranty rights if something goes wrong with product. So it is much easier to let someone else to do the importing job, especially because price in the world is pretty similar to one we have here at sellers. Also i doubt that those great snow tires you drive north there will do the job on temperature and surface range we have here. edit: Do You think that LSD is benefit or handicap on snow? And do You think that MC2 goes better or worse than other FWD cars?

Here's at last one santa's neighbour . Where have you been all of this days when this island guys struggle to solve my problem . Honestly, for more than half of this tires from list a've never heard of . We have much milder weather conditions, so any of this hardcore savage tires are not necessery, and even impossible to find on the market. Allso, spikes are not legal. Here how common winter driving conditions in my region looks like. Maybe 2/3 of winter roads are dry or sligtly black iced, with temperature between -5 to +5. Sure, any higher ground have proportionally more snow. Even law alow you to drive summer tire if there is no snow or ice on the road. But, every winter has few to 15-20 snowy days, which demand winter tire. But my love to snow sports force me to go to mountains where i need good tire. To cut a long story short. We have offered mostly universal winter tires, which combines cold dry, and ice/snow performances. And what we can buy is something like ADAC winterreifentest list. - Continental ContiWinterContact - Michelin Alpin A4 - Dunlop winterresponce 2 and other middle and low class opponents Allso, do you think that 195/50 tire has much worse performance than 195/55?

hurry up, we're leaving at 5am

No, just lpg tank instead of spare wheel, so no extra load, just aerodeck rear end . At sunday i will go for skiing again so i could try lower pressure, but i had deflated tires earlier, and as i remember, i didnt noticed any big difference.

There are no many M owners, especially VTi model . At last, snow chains is requiered winter equipment, so i am not afraid of getting anywhere i want, but i would like not to put chains everywhere like i am driving summer tire . dr_broon and Krzys - i know, but i've done that to get good steering responce and lighter steering feel

That wasnt handbrake turn, that was slow turn helped with handbrake . Thinner tires are ofcorse recomended wor snow and ice, but i must keep good dry road handling, so tire must stay 195mm wide. But i know heavier cars with wider tires and normal diff that moves much better than me. Speaking of surface is ice covered with snow, and it is dificult stuff to drive on, but i have this problem on meni varietes of snow surfaces, so this ice should be the main reason. I just feel that car should run better even on this surface. @dr_broon - preassure is arround 2.4-2.5 bars, but i had little deflated tires last winter, and no difference. Thank you guys for trying to help me but none of you dont have much snow expirience. If just any MB6/MC2 owner from northern europe saw this topic, i think that he could geve me a clue

haha, legacy of some bad rwd habits

Here i am after few days. DC2 aligment is because service didnt have MB6 or MC2 file on his machine. But, wheel base, front and rear track and suspension is the same as DC2, so i think that this setup is good. But this isn't the core of the problem, because my car behaved this way with stock and MG ZS suspension, with bad and good wheel aligment and with new and now used tires. Now normaly worse than with new tires, but without some big difference because of tire wear. Heres demonstration video how bad it is. Captured 2 days ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4_Tu9QOqWM Sure, it is hard, icy sufrace, but slope is small, and fwd lsd car with winter tires just must move, and it isnt.

We have phrase here "how much money, so much music" . And its totaly normal, but people here drive even cheaper tires than mine, and have no problems with white stuff. I am confused, and just scared that i will throw money on cheap or middle priced tires (but tested and approved on other cars), or unnecesery spend huge amonut on expencive ones.

I havent try MC on snow on sumemer tires. But why should M's be any different from any other car? It is normal FF car. Geometry is the same as other Civic's from that time, suspension is great (form Integra), i just dont see any reason for worse handling. My MC isnt suffer much form under or oversteer. Ok, B engine is heavier than D, so car can oversteer for a little comparing to D, but allso heavy B is harder pressing front tires, so it should go. So dry and wet conditions driving is pretty good in this car. But winter is not so good. I allso tried winter on stock suspension, next, and this one winter is on MG ZS180 suspension with rear ARB, also, this winter is with propper (DC2) wheel aligment, and the situation is just getting worse with tire mileage wear. As i sead, it isnt situation that my car is stucking everywhere, spinning on road, diching beside road in every corner, hitting cars on street light. It is driving prety ok, at last it has winter tires, it just must go, but it isnt going that well comparing to other FF normal street cars. Specially knowing that this car has relatively heavy front end and almighty LSD. I am prety confused, because i menaged to go skiing many times with dad's Skoda Octavia tdi on summer tires, and now my deck on winter tires stuck. One example. I am in the not so deep snow, on a small slope, i release the clutch with not so many gas, and front end just moves sideways downhill 10-20cm because od LSD, and i am stuck. Reverse gear, car just pops from that place, again first gear, and the same situation. I move car on the cleared, but snow covered part of the road, again nothing. At last, when move i have the momentum and i go, bat allso untill some steep hill. For example, other cars made pass on that section, and i am running over ahose tracs, and then just keep stucking on a half of the hill. At first place i point finger on tires, but i would like what to buy. should i buy: -any narrower tire - 185/60 R15, but i afraid of ugly car, and bad performance on dry road -any tire with higher tyre profile - 195/55 but they are prety expencive -any other winter tire in this dimension -or some expencive first class 195/50 tire