DeLaSoul

Okay, back for another quick update. Interior is now stripped. wiring harness is now out of the car all the way from head lights to tail lights. Decided to take it slow and label EVERY plug as i disconnected it just in case. A lot of this is not going back in the car but it better to be safe than sorry. Started removing all the sound deadening yesterday (hard work) but it's coming together nicely. Started at the back, working my way forward Got as far as the front floor before I called it a day. I just have the heater matrix to remove up front and the last of the sound deadening and she's roll cage ready! I will collect all that damn material and weight it to see how much weight I've taken out

Hi mate, sorry been away for a while (busy with work) Bushes were easy, I used a sharp drill to make loads of holes in the rubber so the core comes out, then a saw blade to split the outer sleeve of the bush. This needs to be done carefully so as not the cut the arm. TBH you don't need to go all the way through, just weaken the sleeve, then just knock it out with a large flat bladed screw driver and a lump hammer. Takes about 10 minutes per bush. I admit I got lazy after the first 2 and used an air grinder on the sleeves

x2 Take it slow and do it right. Be interesting to see the result as mine is starting to go in the same place

At the minute I just planning on the fronts but I can look at the rears. Know what you mean about the handbrake, put mine on a while back and the car started to roll away while I jumped out to close the gate! Luckily I left the drivers window open so I could jump in and pull the handle up to the max before the car got to the main road, and worst of all the car was only on a gentle slope

Caliper is connected to the hub via the caliper carrier. Once you have a disc that fits the hub, (so in this case a 300mm disc, 28mm thick with 4x114 fitting for MC2/MB6) you can change the position of the calipers relative to the hub by changing the caliper carrier. Just look at high end brake companies like AP racing, they don't make thousands of different calipers for different applications, they make a handful and change the carriers to suit different cars. A decent machine shop can make you a prototype carrier in a few hours and it won't be a bodge if the dimensions are right. I am looking at putting EP3 calipers on my MC and this was the way I have been looking to do it. It doesn't need the expense of a custom disc blank. Making a handful of brackets that only have 4 tapped holes in them has got to be cheaper Either way I believe there would be some interest in the wider market for the idea as you are using Honda parts on a Honda which is always cool Just my 2p Dave

I will try and help but I've not taken apart a Civic instrument cluster, I've only done Mazda and Toyota in the past. This is at your risk! Generally, the needles just pull off. You have to be really careful and pull straight up but they do come. I have heard of people using a fork as a lever but I've never tried it. Have a look on youtube for videos, there are some there for other cars and again, the ones I looked at are just pull off. There was also a video from a guy working on an EG civic but the quality is very low, but it is a Honda. bhhGgo3XbRU Be careful to note where the needle goes as on a lot of cars the shaft for the needle is not keyed - so it can be put back on wrong. In the past I have hooked the dash back up without the needles, powered it back up and turned it off to let the needles reset to the zero positions, then re-attached the needles. I can't say that this will definitely work on a Honda but it has for me on other cars. Let us know how you get on. HTH Dave

74000 before I started pulling the ol' Aerodeck to pieces. Grand old age of 12 this year too

Full cage, dash bar, front and rear turrets and door bars. Will be mounting a set of proper seat rails and a peddle box Will be itching to get her back together, save some pennies and start work on the engine

We call it sound proofing. It's a horrible job and time consuming too Tell me about it! I did it on my RX-7 a few years back and it took me an entire evening with a hammer, chisel and blow torch I managed to to remove 8kg from the RX-7, before welding in 10 point JEGS roll cage! Overall once the cage goes in the Civic and the car comes out at the same weight she is now I will be happy. Looking forward to getting back to the UK next week and get more work done. Only got a few months until the cage goes in and that will fly by before I know it.

Good idea - I will do when it's all finished. AC compressor and airbags weighed the most so far! I'm willing to bet the sunroof and all the seats will be the heaviest items though

More of the strip out continues..... Started to take the dashboard and wiring out so I have been marking up EVERYTHING, oh and finally got round to fitting the DC2 Momo wheel I've had for the last year Main dash cover off, only about 5 bolts holding it is, but the heater control cable were a git Fan unit and AC all out A lot of this is not going back in Carpets and rear heater pducts gone Next stage is to remove all the wiring from the cabin once I have marked up the remaining plugs. Big job, but it will save so much pain when I start putting her back together later on this year

Not really, the steering would then be set to different levels by hand - I want it to be controlled by vehicle speed. Some pumps/steering ECU's have a vehicle speed input, but I've not seen anyone yet get it so it work as OEM

Cool thanks, but I was planning on fixed seats as I will be the only driver. Pole Position is FIA approved so I will be looking at the matching mounts

Okay I understand, so they have a list of what should be on the car and will be looking for the warning lights. I am planning on removing the entire system, wiring, sensors, pump, ecu etc. etc. so the warning light won't be on and the ABS ECU will be gone. Unless they can plug the car into a diagnostics system and interigate my ECU they won't know it's been removed without a search of the car so it's a risk I am willing to take. The main dealer that does my MOT's knows the car inside out and what I am doing to it - ultimate goal it track day car with very VERY occasional road use . Everything I have done so far is to improve upon the safety of the car, no engine mods what so ever, just brakes and suspension. Fully triangulated front to rear turret roll cage is going in in November, harnesses and race seats soon after. I am also planning bigger brakes as even with better pads & discs it was the one thing that let the car down on the Nurburgring last year. Once I am satisfied she is 110% I will start on the engine/exhaust.

Hi James, I'm looking for some Recaro Pole Positions (mainly because I can get my fat arse in and out of them lol) on fixed mountings - what have you got in mind?

Most of the interior is going, was only planning on keeping the dashboard and heater. All the sound proofing is going too. I have been looking for a perspex window kit but haven't found one. @ philgor - I didn't know that, cheers. Surely they would have to know if the car had ABS from new before they could fail me? Not that it makes much difference as I will be trailering the car most of the time from now on

Hi, Okay, bit of an unusual one here but I am looking to remove the standard power zapping power steering pump and replace it with an electric one. I also need to clear some space at the front of the engine, so electric pump seems to be the simplest option allowing me some power steering. What I can't find is someone who has done it on any car that has managed to keep the speed sensitivity of the pump intact. Some of the ones I have seen around the web are set up using a switch on the dashboard so the pump can be turned on or off but I want to try and keep the original feel of my car. Toyota, Mazda, Peugout, and several american brands have all done electro hydraulic steering so the pumps are out there Question - Has anyone else looking into this and if so did they find any good info on linking the speed of the pump to the speed of the car? I honestly believe it can be done, but I haven't seen one yet for reference. I know pumps from the Toyota MR-2 can be made to fit and are available on the Bay, just want to make it speed sensitive. A guy over on the K20A.org forum has listed the parts and wiring diagrams but still not made it speed sensitive ! Cheers, Dave

Okay, time to bring this thread back fro the dead! The Civic has had very little use this last 12 months as I haven't had the time to really do anything to it. Finally had a break over the summer to get a little more work done, and move my Aerodeck onto the next phase of the project. Long term I want this to be a bit of a track day warrior after my trip last year to the Nurburgring, I want to see what else I can do to improve a very capable car. I need to remove a lot of the "dead weight" from the chassis, so the niceties such as AC, sunroof rear seats are all going over the next few months! I've started with removing all the ancillaries that I don't want, first with removing the AC: Then with taking off the front bumper and skirts to have a good clean and again work out what other weight savings can be made up front. Head light washers and fog lights aren't really needed on my car. AC radiator and brackets off so far. With the pump, pipes and mounts that's over 10kg easily I am also looking to remove the Power Steering and ABS in the next few weeks so I will try and keep this thread up to date as I go

Yeah, sorry I've not been about much - busy with work (too busy)

Only after 5-6 laps once I got a little better with the lines & braking points. One M3 driver certainly had a shock

Not 100% but I think so

I was going to stick with the B18C4 block but change the pistons and rods (raise compression ratio). Head wise I'm not sure yet, B18C6 with a decent intake, uprated injectors and rail? Need a better fuel pump, and sort an ECU + remap to get the most from it. My ideal build would include a supercharger but monies won't stretch to that anytime soon DC2 lumps are going for £1200+ when I looked, and I would imagine my build would be getting close to that but I would have the satisfaction knowing I built it and it was 110% inside before turning the key. My engine is really good for an old car - noticeable IAB open and VTEC switch over - so much so it actually catches surprises people when they come out in the car!

Thanks mate. Not fitted the manifold yet, I've been debating on pulling the engine out over the autumn/winter for a complete rebuild so didn't want to fit it and take it off again. It looks good on the length though, but I had to source an exhaust bracket from another honda (prelude I think) to hold around the back of the engine. If I change my mind on fitting it I will post up on the install. I know what you mean on cash though, I saved for 9 months to get all the bits and did 90% of the work myself on the build. I needed help moding the exhaust to clear the arb and doing the geo, but I would guess most people dont have a 4 post ramp and the gear to do those jobs anyway

Yeah, I found a small amount of oil in the air pipe/tb after a hard run. Oil catch tank makes a lot of sense. Not sure though about the reason for the tb heating though, I though it was more to do with preventing the butterfly valve sticking closed in cold weather??? Not sure now

Few more pics, I am waiting on the last 2 as originals (without the watermark) Link I found to the photographers around the circuit is :http://nordschleifepics.com/index.php?p=home There maybe more but this turned up the best results for me.