DeLaSoul

Cheers, I searched google for Nurburgring photos and found a page listing all the photographers there at the weekend. I ran through several thousand pics, found 4 of my car and ordered them without watermarks. I will post the rest Monday when I'm at a computer The other shots are cool, but this was my favourite. Thanks. Pro pics really make all the difference. Car handled really well, just lacks torque on the hills. Plans underway to sort that Aerodeck = practical and fun Cheers. Will upload the rest on Monday

Civic on track! Not really an update, I was just well chuffed to find some photos of the car from my time at the Nurburgring. I didn't realise there were so many photographers taking pictures!!! This was one of the better ones as you can't really see me

Das ist sehr gut! Pics to follow in my thread when I get home but the ol' deck will be sporting a well earned Nurburgring sticker after several sucessful laps. I can feel a road trip for next year coming on already

Das ist sehr gut! Pics to follow in my thread when I get home but the ol' deck will be sporting a well earned Nurburgring sticker after several sucessful laps. I can feel a road trip for next year coming on already

Lol I have no idea. I can honestly say now I've driven my mc2 hard that it's awesome. I will post some pics :t when I get home on Tuesday, but lets just say a certain German toll road has been a good testing ground today

Lol I have no idea. I can honestly say now I've driven my mc2 hard that it's awesome. I will post some pics :t when I get home on Tuesday, but lets just say a certain German toll road has been a good testing ground today

Okay, dug out the geo print out: Caster 1D00' give or take (non adjustable) Camber (FRT) -0D28' each side Toe (FRT) 0D04' each side, 0D07' total Camber (RR) -1D00' each side Toe (RR) 0D07' each side, 0D14' total Setback 0mm car is awesome and I trust my setup guys numbers (especially after driving it) HTH

Okay, dug out the geo print out: Caster 1D00' give or take (non adjustable) Camber (FRT) -0D28' each side Toe (FRT) 0D04' each side, 0D07' total Camber (RR) -1D00' each side Toe (RR) 0D07' each side, 0D14' total Setback 0mm car is awesome and I trust my setup guys numbers (especially after driving it) HTH

looks familiar. Good bit of kit, you just need a pair of 22mm spanners to adjust them

looks familiar. Good bit of kit, you just need a pair of 22mm spanners to adjust them

I know from the alignment I had done that the caster were out on the readings until the car was setup at ride height/camber and then the caster came back into an "acceptable range" according to the geo machine (I questioned the numbers when he was setting it up as I though Caster would be a constant on a double wishbone setup). I was worried that we would need to pull the upper arms off and shim/spin the bushes over to get the right figures but it was all good in the end. I don't know the stock readings, but I can find the alignment sheet and give you the final reading if that's any help? I know that until everything else was setup the figures were more positive than they should have been (or greater KPI than stock) I have never heard of people swapping left to right tbh, and I can't think why you'd want to as surely it would give a negative/lower caster angle? More caster = more on power steering or greater camber change at lock I will be picking the car up tomorrow so I can check the figures then.

I know from the alignment I had done that the caster were out on the readings until the car was setup at ride height/camber and then the caster came back into an "acceptable range" according to the geo machine (I questioned the numbers when he was setting it up as I though Caster would be a constant on a double wishbone setup). I was worried that we would need to pull the upper arms off and shim/spin the bushes over to get the right figures but it was all good in the end. I don't know the stock readings, but I can find the alignment sheet and give you the final reading if that's any help? I know that until everything else was setup the figures were more positive than they should have been (or greater KPI than stock) I have never heard of people swapping left to right tbh, and I can't think why you'd want to as surely it would give a negative/lower caster angle? More caster = more on power steering or greater camber change at lock I will be picking the car up tomorrow so I can check the figures then.

Just been through your build and your deck looks awesome - right colour, right wheels and ride height just sets it off. Can't wait to see it with the mid spoiler painted & installed

Just been through your build and your deck looks awesome - right colour, right wheels and ride height just sets it off. Can't wait to see it with the mid spoiler painted & installed

Always the way, never mind

Not needed, and at the cost of a roll I'm dammed if I'm doing the whole thing! I want to reduce the heat in the bay and it should in turn help keep the intake temps down during normal driving and up power by keeping the exhaust gases hotter exiting the engine. Not a bad idea, but I have been looking at the Mocal oil coolers and taking the feed from a sandwich plate fitted to the filter opening on the back of the block. As long as I use a temp controlled switch to open the flow to the cooler when the oil gets hot enough it should be okay. I can mount a 13 row cooler in front of the a/c rad for now, but I need to check the flows/pressure is enough for that length of oil lines. As this isn't my daily driver I can spend a bit of time planning the jobs, getting the bits and working it out as I go

Cheers guys, I like bling but heat is a killer in the bay. I am looking into an oil cooler and bonnet lifters to improve things. Tegiwa, funny thing is it looks an awful lot like the Toda but at a fraction of the price I have the new collector flange, I need to *coughremove* the cat before I fit it.

Cheers guys, updated the existing "how to" with a few tips from the job. Still itching even now....

No not yet, been busy at work making new parts on the lathe so other "projects" have been put on hold I did manage to heat wrap the new manifold though, came out better than expected but I did itch like mad for a while afterwards

wow, that's a serious piece of bodywork, I shuddered just fitting the standard front lip Keep up the good work - any plans for the front of the car?

Thanks First "proper" drive last night without trade plates, now she is all taxed up and legal. Needs a little fine tuning on the damping for track/spirited driving but on the road long distance she is spot on. Ride is firm but still compliant enough not to smash my spine to pieces, car is sooooo much sharper on turn in with the rear ARB. Stance is almost spot on for my liking, may need a small adjustment at the rear by 5mm or so but a 2 minute job. Happy happy happy!!! Spec so far: Front - Buddy club P1 Camber links Avo GTZ coilovers 350lbs springs 1" drop Honda OEM ARB bushes Energy Suspension bushes (wishbones & top mounts) HEL brake lines EBC USR Discs EBC Greenstuff pads DOT 5.1 brake fluid Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, steering rack bushes, gear linkage bushes Rear - Skunk2 Camber links Skunk2 "Black series" LCA's Avo GTZ coilovers 200lbs springs 1" drop Energy suspension top mount bushes MG ZS 20mm ARB Mugen trailing arm bushes Competition bushing toe compensator bushes HEL brake lines SW98 16"x7" wheels, Toyo T1R 205/45/ZR16 tyres Dave

Hi, they are Skunk2 camber adjusters from a an EG/DC2. edit: Sorry, now I'm at a computer not using a bloody phone Skunk2 Camber adjusters from the EG/DC2. Straight fit, no mods needed. I needed adjustment with all the other mods to get the camber back "on track" Dave

Won't need it, I'm not taking anything apart that will effect the geometry. I can remove the calliper, undo the drive shaft and split all 3 ball joints, done this before

Awesome job, good pics too. Now I can see how it all comes off. Keep up the good work.

lol, no plans on selling it just yet. Now I've driven it I got a few more ideas brewing Going to drive it over Germany next month to watch the superbikes, plenty of time to sort all the ideas out and budget. Hopefully. Thinking about changing the bottom ball joints as well now as they will be the final component in the suspension, plus they are pretty cheap . They were okay when I checked them but it would be a shame not to do them and that really would be EVERY component on the suspension. I need to put the car in the air and take off the hubs, so a good opportunity to get the last of the motor mount & rack bushes sorted.