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B18c4 missfire from cold start under load@ 2-3K


Guest jimbob738
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I've not long set my tps up. Yes you want it to be 0.50v throttle closed. Around 4.5-4.6v no more than 5 throttle fully open.

It's the closed reading that is most important Imo and that's where it will get it's starting point for the fueling table.

Even if your getting the correct base readings. You need to slowly open the throttle and the increase in voltage should be smooth. No jumping or freezing.

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My guess is if others have the same symptoms and it's not an easy/obvious one to deal with then most will probably just live with it until it becomes a problem.

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Guest jimbob738

thanks Jake would you say the tps is a good point to rule out then with the reading being 0.60v closed and all, the factory one riveted to the TB so can't adjust that, I'd say its a fuel table issues from the start of running.

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Guest jimbob738

My guess is if others have the same symptoms and it's not an easy/obvious one to deal with then most will probably just live with it until it becomes a problem.

I see what you saying but no point making you car look good if it runs like a lumpy fart.

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Guest jimbob738

I will try my best to sort it and I will report all the things I have changed, think I might whip off the intake manifold replace the TPS and give it all a good clean, get a refreshed set of injectors in and she how it runs then next month though.

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When I was trying to suss the problem with mine (which turned out to be the dizzy) something the manual said to help rule out the injectors is while the car is running to unplug one at a time, you should hear the revs drop and then come back up as the other three compensate, if when you unplug one you don't hear it that injector might be blocked or not working. Least it's something you could try?

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Guest jimbob738

Thanks Krzys

 

that's a good suggestion wont doing that damage and Valve of Piston if its not combusting anything?

 

I will try it, I was texting steveokeneivel last night that was his suggestion to me aswell and check the injector pattern with a coke bottle.

 

Thanks for the suggestion mate.

 

my distributor was knackered, I changed it cost me £175 but cheapest I could find, that way all the components are fresh and the good bits I had tested from my old one I reconditioned my brothers so not all that bad, its a common Honda issue the coils are rubbish and only last so long I would love an external coil setup MSG or something but so damn expensive.

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I paid about the same for my dizzy, brand new but not OE Honda but does the job!

 

Not sure on the damage front but if it's already happening then it'll already be hurting.

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I've always thought that it was like on an old car with a choke, and you didn't have the right setting on.

Whenever I've changed something ignition wise I've always hoped that would solve it, leads, dizzy cap, then dizzy, and o2 sensor is next on my list.

The o2 sensor went on my old carina and the symptoms were the same, just that did it at any time, normally when it was hot.

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