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Yes, there are some marks - I guess it was to align the drill or whatever they were using in the factory if the car was to be an MB6. I'd love to know what they did - I imagine just drill and tap a hole, thread in a stud ... or maybe there was more to it than that? Maybe some extra reinforcement underneath? I found a video of someone working on an EG just now doing basically the same thing as I wrote earlier but using a piece of metal behind as reinforcement - it seemed to work OK for them

The easiest way is to get a bar that mounts into the top mount studs of the suspension, like this However, I have been given an MB6 strut bar for free so I wanted to attempt this install. According to the internet I should do as follows: Offer up the bar Mark and drill 8.5mm holes into the strut towers Use M8 bolts (grade 10.9) with penny washers through from the underside and tighten it down I have all the parts ready to go and will report back soon ...

Yes cars that came with it have studs. However I'm sure there are dimples said studs where would be on the cars without. Questionable how much reinforcement it offers. But better than nothing I'm sure.

Sick! Thats about what I read as well. I hit up a friend of mine who, apparently, has done this to several ej/ek models, and had a bar from an mb6 lying around that he says seems to fit on his ej as well. He already has some pretty strong anti-rust foundation, thats probably the most important thing about this. Only thing I was worried about is structural integrity of the strut towers, but with some decently sized penny washers underneath it should be fine. If I decide against it, its still irreversible, i'll get a bolt-on one too. Looking forward to what you have to report!

A basic smoke tester can be useful in these situations. Leave it inside the car with the doors and windows closed for 30 mins or so to fill the car with thick smoke, you should see it leaking out of the holes. I have this one - its basic but does the job aliexpress.com/p/tesla-landing/index.html?UTABTest=aliabtest125094_24784&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=784528327853&ds_e_matchtype=search&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=g&ds_e_product_group_id=2463919240694&ds_e_product_id=en1005006642306652&ds_e_product_merchant_id=106959561&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=23272714697&albag=191864323674&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23272714697&gbraid=0AAAAAD6I-hHL-qdK3MTpI0Ema2awFtvJN&gclid=CjwKCAjwspPOBhB9EiwATFbi5PCAR3LaZGphD23BdD1CPkhjJilbrB9rcTukI15yr1pC9FbnhiKokBoCeDkQAvD_BwE&aff_fcid=a41b7480c3234acabb05997aa673a8c1-1774543819938-06152-irey5Th&aff_fsk=irey5Th&aff_platform=promotion&sk=irey5Th&aff_trace_key=a41b7480c3234acabb05997aa673a8c1-1774543819938-06152-irey5Th&terminal_id=24f51958e50f4dda8253ef308c411e91&scenario=c_ppc_item_bridge&productId=1005006642306652&_immersiveMode=true&withMainCard=true&OLP=1116833308_f_group1&o_s_id=1116833308&afSmartRedirect=n Also useful for testing out exhaust and intake/PCV/etc leaks

I think that answers it. Pics were too big.

Yes, it's a shame. It's the same for basically every kind of specialist forum these days unfortunately. The barrier for entry is lower for posting on facebook, even though it's an abysmal format for specialist discussion. It's ok for asking questions, but thats about it. Any kind of long term logging of knowledge like this forum is full of is not compatible with their engagement/advertising driven format. Probably less said about that the better.

Oh, I know, I just want a bit more power than the 150 you could pull out of a D series, I want to do the swap on my own fully also.

Rear disc conversion (pretty much) completed now My father in law managed to get all of the brake lines out of the factory prop valve without rounding any which I was very impressed with!! 40/40 prop valve (I believe originally from a non-ABS integra) swapped in New handbrake cables installed into car. This was a bit of a pain as I purchased non-genuine items from Autodoc ("Cofele" branded) and the build quality was awful. One of the tangs at the end where they slide into the handbrake "yoke" had been badly machined with a piece of cable hanging out of one side and I had to spend quite a bit of time with a grinding wheel on a Dremel honing it down to fit - the risk you take with cheap aftermarket parts I suppose. I'm not sure if you can even get original Honda handbrake cables any more, and even if you could they'd probably be a silly price. The only "snag" I have left is I wasn't able to swap the brake master cylinder as the bolt pattern is different. I managed to pick up an MB6 BMC locally for cheap but it didnt come with the servo/booster, but I thought it would fit ok .. obviously not. Here's a comparison of them for anyone following along at home: MB2: MB6: In summary, you need both the servo AND MC together if you want to do this upgrade. After doing a bit of reading, the brakes will work as expected now i've fitted the prop valve but the pedal travel might be too long. As my original BMC isn't leaking i'll just leave it for now and see how I get on, and probably get an MB6 or ZS180 booster if one pops up for a reasonable price.

Fingers crossed you've got it sorted. 👌

20 years that's some going & must also be some dedication Simon, I've seled the other top areas around the rear of the weather strips right at the back quarter below the roof rails, it p**sed it down today & the area that was getting all the water on the drivers side is dry as a bone, I did however still find maybe 10 to 20ml of water in the wheel well that had drained down from the side to side seal there, the one under the boot catch & inside the well, I'm hoping that it's just residual water from the previous day slowly making it's way out, but I plan to get the hose on it again to check it, but may not have to after looking at the weather report, seems p**sing it down again for a few hours tomorrow, so one way or another I'll find out if there's still a small leak, if there is I am now clutching at straws on where the heck it could be getting in, but I really want to eliminate every single leak no matter how small, fingers crossed but it's not the easiest of areas to check with no exterior seal there or any obvious areas above now where it could be getting in. if it is still leanking a tiny bit I have a hunch it's inside the tail light where the panels join, but I have looked at them very closely & although they look a bit ropey on the photo, I can't see as much as a 1mm gap anywhere, but will be getting a little tiger seals on them just in case.

Nightmare these leaks Simon, great to hear you've still got the VTI, wish I still had mine, I sold it as figured I'd pick another up, but ever since I sold her the prices have been rising fast. I have been back a it this morning, I think I may have nailed down the leak, I'm going to try & get a "how to lock down those water leaks" guide done if it works, as I've about got a handle on pretty much every possible place it can get in & was doing, I'll patch this area up first & have the hose pipe back on it to be sure before I do though, figure it may help others out in future & maybe keep a few more of these from getting scrapped. if this fixes it, the other decks getting the same treatment as that one also leaks into the spare wheel well, though luckily not a tenth as bad as this one, mad as she's got 100k more on the clock & is a little older to.

I should have updated this a little Simon, but with no traffic at all I've been asking on some of the FB groups, you are spot on though as I had all the roof rails & weather strips off the roof & found an area rigth at the back of one on the drivers side where the seal had given way, this has been dealt with & it's reduced the leak from a torrent to a trickle, but there's still water getting in, I suspect from the top panel join behind the tail lights, I did seal up the bottom joint with tiger seal, but soon as the weather lets up I want to do the top ones as I suspect they are my culprit, I suspect it's getting in there & trickling down to the inside near where the rear sunroof drain exit pipes are located, well a little further back directly behind the lights. But I'm also getting it coming through very slowly in the spare wheel well at either end of the top panel joint/seal, someones already been quite happy with mastic sealing it all up from the inside already (before I get her) but that's not solving the problem just delaying it, I want to tackle the cause not the symtom & get her water tight the right way as water inside the panels you can't see will as we know not end well. I really hope it's just as said water coming in from the tail light top joint & making it's way down to this join in the panels in the well, god knows I've plugged enough leaks now, at least I'm moving in the right direction, I'm not doing any other jobs on this one till I get her 100% water tight as would be throwing good money after bad.

Great to see you are still on here Simon, it's been a while for me so I'm as guilty as the rest for not posting, but it sure is quiet, was really hoping to get some advice on my bloody water leak issues, I''ve been trolling the forum threads trying to find answers, seems I bought myself a Sievic, it's in good nick but OMG is she peppered with small leaks all over the shop, slowly getting though plugging them all. you've always been a huge help when I've posted previously, you still running the 1.8? I miss mine.

Coming together mate. Glad those bolts worked out.. I'll store that one in the memory banks

It's been a while since I did it, but I think I just used some plastic trim pry tools to ease them off.. As always warm weather is your friend when old plastic clips are involved....

That's more like it - 34mm piston calipers did the trick

I think I must have got real lucky on at least 1 aspect with the car I just picked up as it has a set of these on, good thing as there's anough not so great points, but her it's 26 years old now, so you have to take the rough with the smooth, I was hoping to pick another set up for my other deck, but seems they are near impossible to find. That headlight conversion looks the mutts BTW, very classy

Suspension all refreshed now Hardrace front ARB bracket bushes (21mm for anyone wondering - it was quite hard to figure out the size without measuring it in person!) and hardrace front compliance bushes Mostly new bolts … a few still on order (if you look really careful there's a subframe bolt missing) 🤪 Hardrace ARB droplinks (to fit a civic EG - the ones to fit an MB6/DC2 are a different shape)

Rover bolts came in clutch so the part numbers above are correct for anyone who's curious. Some of them were in MG Rover branded bags which was a blast from the past, they must've been 20+ years old! Removed the engine oil sump and fitted the 4PistonRacing baffle plates, really nicely designed piece. Much easier than weld-in baffles. Realised a massive fail with the rear brakes. The rear arms I bought were off a ZS 180, and came with 260mm discs installed. I purchased new discs and pads, and I could not for the life of me get the discs and pads to fit. I tried EVERYTHING, figuring I was doing something wrong. I then got my father in law to try and he couldnt get them in either. In the end, I looked up the part numbers on the rear calipers and found out they are for a ZS 120 which has 240mm rear discs and thinner pads.. so that explains it. The previous owner had obivous bought the wrong calipers, but managed to force the disc and pads to work .. somehow. I think they had removed a bunch of material from the pads .. the mind boggles. New set of ZS 180 rear calipers on order... an unexpected expense I didnt need but at least i've got to the bottom of the mystery (apparently the 30 in the part number means 30mm piston. Correct ones have 34mm pistons).

I have had the 1.8 / 1.4 / 1.5 & now just got a 1.6, I always just have a straight pipe fitted from the cat back myself, will make it a little more noisy (in a good way IMO) & will not impact the performance, all comes down to preference, they are only designed to quiet them down, 1st thing I usually do when I get a new one is get a full stainless custom pipe put on, it's more expensive than putting a standard one on, but you only have to do it once. As for the difference, that sadly I am not able to help you with, but I can't see there being a huge difference, as said it's only there to tame the noise down.

Good shout I had a quick look and it seems to be the same issue as the EK ones After doing a bit of reading, it looks like the MB rear bolts are based on European standards. The JDM cars are based on JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). I knew something wasn't quite right because the rear bolts are 13mm / 15mm heads and normally on Japanese (at least JDM model) cars its 12/14. I've managed to order all of the rear bolts using the MG Rover part numbers instead. There are a few front suspension bolts that remain illusive, I may have to either try and clean up the originals or order generic bolts. I made a spreadsheet to try to figure this out (my starting point was based on the bush diagram from the powerflex website). Once I finally get them all replaced i'll post up a list somewhere, it might help someone else in the future.