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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/30/2024 in Posts
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I crashed my MB2, and the front bumper needs replacing. Where can I find a new one? I searched online and couldn't find any store that had new bumpers.2 points
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Thank you so much for all the information, super useful stuff, hopefully I can put it all to good use π A really overdue update: Replaced the front calipers, disks and pads (took a long time as I lost the locking wheelnut key like an absolute spanner) Put her in for MOT and failed on the rear trailing arm bushing which cost Β£80 to get replaced Finally got my accord tourer off the road and am now using the aerodeck as my daily Got a bit of noise from the drivers rear brake, hopefully some incorrect assembly as I was doing it in the p**sing rain (hoping its not another caliper on its way out). And the CV boots on the drivers side are pretty knackered so need to replace them at some point Aiming to be more active on the forum this year and hopefully giving you guys plenty of reading material Looking at doing some audio upgrades in the near future any advice/experience would be very much appreciated. A very late merry crimbo and new years to all as well π2 points
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many thanks both, I had a quick look for repair panels yesterday, they do exist but not found for inner arch yet. also not sure how they compare e.g. in thickness terms with OE body shell ? suggestions on best place to buy the panels appreciated. otherwise I will just carry on googling. ours has been garaged (unheated though) so it is out of the weather, except when used - it's still the daily driver.2 points
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The good news is all the Civic M's MB/MB/MC are the same body parts in that area so repair panels for the Rover 45/400/MGZS fit. @Roverjoe in the forum has restored his in this area and has videos on Youtube. The Civic Ms seemed to have outlasted the 3 door civics rust wise, especially in the rear arches/sills, so think they've done well to only be needing this done now. I'm luck that my deck still is solid in the sills/arches etc but she's garaged all the time since 2013.2 points
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Yes mate, deffo ones that can be retro fitted so look OEM. Two things honda left out in the Civic Ms....cupholders and storage! Lol2 points
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Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! ππππ2 points
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That looks stunning! Loving that! @dr_broon yup, something about metallic reds that I just love! Gayles new Micra is a similar colour to that red too!2 points
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To be honest, I've rarely even heard about these switches acting up, so my best guess would be either to just go to a wrecker or buying a used one from someone parting their M-chassis out. There are still enough of those around for that to be an option. And this is just speculation on my part, but I also noticed that pretty much all 90s Hondas share visually the same stalks, be it an EG or an NSX. So maybe that's another thing to look into. Regarding the brightness issue - I myself fitted some ultra bright H4s from Philips that are actually meant for motorcycles, and they are considerably brighter than the normal ones before. But that's still only an alright level of brightness, not neccessarily great. So I always also use my fog lights when driving at night, which really helps light up the periphery. And retrofitting HIDs and LED bulbs is... kinda sketchy and also possibly illegal, depending on where you live. But there are pretty nice LED ones on the market. So you only really got a choice between adding extra lights, getting the brightest H4s, or going down the sketchy route of retrofitting more modern tech into your M. Those 'Ultra Bright LED Laser Matrix Plus whatever' lights modern cars use are just so extremely overpoweringly bright that no matter what you get- as long as it doesn't outshine the literal f-ing sun, you're gonna get the short end of the stick. It's ridiculous.1 point
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Hi all, the lower inner part of rear wheel arch on my Aerodeck VTi has some rust, which I have been aware of for a while but, on further investigation tonight, the near side has gone, i.e. it gives when you push it, the offside feels more solid. need to cut out to see how big the hole is, doubtless it will be gone on the sill section too. similar to this link (Adzvtis pics) just wondered if MB6/ MC2 are same in this area, and if repair panels are available (e.g. Rover 400 etc) , if rust is localised enough (yet to be determined) I guess patches can be fabricated and welded in. Also are there any how to guides, Roverjoe was doing a vid on his MB6 resto I believe. I had the sill front section and jacking points professionally done several years ago but the work cost a bomb then and so I think will have to tackle the rear section myself. many thanks1 point
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Just to be sure... No cupholders right? I've had my MB2 for basically 2 years and always had that awful feeling that I've been missing some hidden features or something! Drinks are always a mess to keep straight and it's hard to believe they flat out decided not to put a cupholder in this car haha. Maybe it's just a poverty spec thing and MB6 do have them with the center console?1 point
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Looks alright that, I can't put ine there now because of the flip out touchscreen. Damn!1 point
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Hi there, I got tagged, and thought id reply, Metal thickness for the inner wheel arches id recommend 1mm. Factory used 0.8mm so either them would do.1 point
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Not gonna lie, I didn't think it would fit this well! It barely weighs on the vent at all, since it sits precisely on top of the center console ridge, would recommend!1 point
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Hi everyone, My name's Nishan, since ive been reading through some of the threads I figured id make an introductory post π Ive got an manual MC1 aerodeck with a D16W4 on 118k that I picked up as an MOT failure about a month ago for Β£800, its got an enormous stack of history and im the 3rd owner Been fixing her up slowly over the last month, getting the bits done for a fresh MOT, rear passenger caliper was seized when I bought it and was pretty much the first thing I did along with discs and pads both sides on the rear. Next issue to sort was the horn not working which I stupidly assumed was the clockspring since I had the exact same issue on my first car which was a D14 mb6 and I know its a common issue on old civics. Replaced it and ended up buying a used horn since my multimeter packed up so I just guessed it had to be one of the two. Replaced both the sidelight bulbs since they had burnt out and lastly i had an exhaust leak from the mid section and backbox, since someone had previously taken a few speed bumps pretty enthusiastically and put a nice collection of holes on the bottom managed to score the backbox and mid section for Β£100 on ebay brand new and almost finished fitting it last weekend, just need to drill out the old bolts to the cat that are pretty in there and that should pass me the MOT fingers crossed π. Im thinking of doing some coolant bypass bits as I've heard its a good modification on the D series engines. If anyone knows a thread that explains how best to go about it or has done it themselves please let me know, would be much appreciated Im aiming to put it on the road as my daily as I'm currently dailying a manual honda accord CM2 2.2 diesel which has a nasty bit of timing chain rattle, so im gonna switch them around and daily the civic while I replace the timing chain along with any other bits that need doing. Any info in regards to preventative maintenance on the aerodeck would be greatly appreciated as im not super well versed in the common issues these suffer from. Cheers guys π1 point
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That looks amazing dude! The D16w4 is a solid engine and probably one of the best D series! (At least from what I know)1 point
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Hahaha, tell me bout it! Think I'm just getting/got old, but prefer really buttons. The pioneer is an amazing bit of kit too, has Spotify etc and nav via my phone. Can also change the colour of the display and buttons individually, so have got the led display set to an off white colour to match the dash. Can also customise the colours, so the keys light up in the exact same blue as the background on the speedo and rev counter. Actually looks pretty decent!1 point
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Deffo mate, roads up here are shocking with mud, salt etc so she's staying well out of it lol1 point
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Not done much to Lexy other than enjoy her! Did however get a few jobs done that needed seeing to. Top display on the dash for the radio/climate control was wonky (common fault on these) so got it removed then spent time re soldering around 40 pins on the display! Plugged back in, al working perfectly. was never a fan of the head unit in these, so did a double din conversion a and splashed out on one of the top android double din touch screen units, am Atoto A6. Cracking bit of kit! However, after 3 weeks, I hated it! Far too fiddly to work when driving, and more distractions than I need! So out it came! Replaced it with a double din pioneer with no touch screen, and all proper physical buttons. The led display is quite large too, so mega easy to see and also a doddle to operate. Well chuffed with it! Oh, and she has the wee miniature Lexy fitted to the dash that was in Lexy one lol Also fitted a brand new TypeS gear knob as had an alloy "FakeR" one fitted. Still got the DAB ariel to fit, but everything works including the steering wheel controls. Only other thing to note is that a prat in a new BMW decided to go for a gap that wasn't there and took my drivers side door mirror clean off! Bastid! Git didn't even stop! Mirror was in 3 bits, dangling by its cable. The casing was taken clean off on impact, and gas z crack in it. The mirror glass is also cracked in various places. I managed to get I all put back together at the roadside (at night, in the bloody rain) and amazingly the electric movement of the mirror still works! The powerfold and heated side don't though so will replace the whole thing. Oh, and just ordered the front wind deflectors for her so will get them this coming week. Also bought and fitted the TypeR rear spoiler, which makes her lok so much better imo. Driving wise, she has been spot on, have already got her up from 64K on the clock to just under 70K! All driving beautify and without any issues. Love this car!1 point
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Nowt much to report other than DD is tucked up in the garage under her car cover for the winter. Enjoy the rest DD π1 point
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Yeah, no way I was entertaining that price! Beginning to wish I'd bought that spares deck for Β£500 now! It's still there, but got loads more I need to be spending money on so once I'm done if it's still there I might jump on it.1 point
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Hi guys, my car's abs light is always on, I've tried to check the codes and the light doesn't blink. I took the manual and did the procedures it says and I got to the part where I have to make a jumper between pin 1 and the ground but I don't know where that plug is if anyone knows please tell me something thanks1 point
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Yes, I used it just a few days ago, it worked like a charm, and what worked for me was briding the two pins as shown in the picture in the guide, and then turning on the igniotion afterwards. That made it start blinking.1 point
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As Simon says, they were never available new from anywhere else's other than Honda. You can still order them from Honda (I was going to get a new one for my deck after the encounter with the deer a few months ago) but they can't give a delivery date to the dealership. Said they are in Belgium (possibly) but could be a matter of weeks or possibly months. Price has also gone up dramatically, I paid Β£250 for my new one for my mb6 from Honda. Now they are Β£550! Best bet is getting one from a breaker.1 point
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oh cool! I bought one of those vent cup holders just to see if they hold alright or not but its great to hear there are sort of real alternatives1 point
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Lol nope, Honda blatantly didn't fit any! No idea why, hot them in other Honda such as integra and accord etc. There are options though, as Rover made two that fit inside the centre front arm rest console. The other option is to retro fit ones from another car. I fitted the ones from the centre console of the integra typeR DC2.1 point
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Are there any wire diagrams avaiable for electric windows? sorry for my bad english haha, english is not my main languageπ1 point
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Think there might be some in the downloadable civic service manual we have in the downloads section mate. The old Haynes manual for these also has the wiring diagrams in them too.1 point
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Unfortunately there'll be no new ones available, your best bet is finding a one that's being broken either on ebay or on Facebook.1 point
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I just bought handbrake cables for the MB6/MC2 models. They have rear discs and in the case of the MB6 are the exact same chassis as mine. Haven't attempted the actual swap yet, but I've got all the neccessary parts lying around already and am pretty sure that the MB6 cables are gonna work. And don't forget that you'll need different brake lines, as well! (Just the flexible part, though)1 point
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You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.1 point
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Hi, are you sure you need new trailing arms? Upon a short google search, I stumbled upon this. " You do NOT need the entire trailing arm; ALL 88-00 civics and 90-01 Integras take the same shaped trailing arm. You need only the spindle, which is attached by a 24mm nut, and four T50 torx bolts. Please note that most swap the entire trailing arm because those torx bolts are in there VERY firmly. I have banged the hell out of a hammer and impact and still had them stay. I advise air tools, because even with all my weight and brute force, they may not come out. Brake lines may be stubborn if your car is older and rusty. The brake hard lines can strip easily if you do not use the proper wrench. A brake line wrench is what you need, which is a 10mm box end wrench with a slot cut out so that you can slide it over the hardline. You can use this on the bleeder screw too if you put the bleeder hose over the bleeder valve first so that brake fluid doesn't spill. On an EK chassis civic, the bleeding sequence is right rear, then left front, then left rear, then front right. Don't go in a circle, the EK chassis uses a crossed brake system, so go by this sequence to avoid any cross contamination of air into the lines, otherwise you may be bleeding all day. " Rear disc conversion, keeping the drum trailing arm | Honda D Series Forum Cheers!1 point
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See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha1 point
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Had me really invested while reading, love the wangan midnight reference haha. Sounds like an interesting project, especially with that amazing D16w4 these had, I'm kinda looking forward to swap one of em in my MB2 cause it's a LOT cheaper than a B18, I'm talking like... 2k or more euros cheaper, I could get one for 500 bucks complete. Also... no rear wiper? that takes courage! I find myself using it so frequently even in sunny days1 point
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ok, its been some time... but i want to share few photos from a civic photoshoot i made recently. This is how it currently looks like.1 point
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Basically any D-Series manifold will fit all kinds of engines out of that particular family. Except D17s, those are "special" (aka the worst engines Honda ever made). Got a 4-2-1 header myself that I bought when my car still had the stock D14 in it and it directly fit my D16Z9 without any modifications. And I can attest to the rust concerns - my rear arches were pretty bad (but still manageable) when I got mine, the front corners where the fenders meet the sideskirts were rotten through and the rear corners are also slowly starting to bloom, as well. Definitely make sure to check those spots when you've got the time! Oh, and your distributor is probably going to die at some point. All of them do, it's kind of inevitable. Do yourself a favor and don't get one of those repro units when it finally goes out - Blueprint and Yingzhen and whatnot units are all Chinesium garbage. The only high-quality replacement I could find was one of those rather tacky sounding "Dragon Fire" units, but quality-wise they are pretty much OEM+, made in the US (not China), and even provide a stronger spark than the stock dizzys do. Other than that, welcome to the club! :)1 point
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Cheers for the reply Dave Done some basic service, oil and filter and brake bleeding, air filter was bramd new when i bought it as well as the spark plugs looking fairly new, previous owner only had it 2 years and the bloke before him had it from new, its had some sort of rust prevention work previously on the rear arches from the original owner. Didnt know the boot floor was a common spot on these so will give a good check when I have the chance. Anyone know about exhaust manifold fitment on these? Got a friend with a japspeed 4-2-1 from his d16 eg hatch that he's k swapping. Would be a nice upgrade if it fits1 point
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