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All looking good mate, those wheels should look great! The arb should defo help stiffen things up aswell. Doing stuff without a press is a right pita. I treated myself to one last christmas and it defo paid for itself when I did my polybushes haha

Bought a set of (very) budget semi-slick tyres "Accelera 651 Sport Xtra" from a company called Tire Streets that i'd seen advertised on various youtube channels. I don't have particularly high expectations as they were extremely cheap (£280 for a set of 4) but according to various internet comments/reviews they seem to be reasonable. I can always upgrade them in the future if needs be. The rubber seems soft which is a good start for a track tyre. Normally I don't like to order tyres separately to fitting (as usually the fitting cost removes any savings) but I couldnt find anything suitable supplied and fitted so I paid the local tyre place £15 a tyre for fitting and balancing which seemed reasonable. Look forward to getting them on the car soon... Finally got around to finishing restoring an MG ZS 180 rear anti roll bar I picked up from a friend a few months back. It was in pretty sorry condition but it seems like they are not sold new any more. Fortunately, you can still buy drop links, poly bushes, and all the bolts so it was just a case of stripping it down, removing the rust, painting it and replacing as much of the hardware as possible. The bushes were a real pain to install without a press but after a lot of farting around in the vice I got there eventually... For reference here's how it looked before (!)

Great, that means I am okay with the dash trims already. Hoping to find a badge and some mats in the meantime 🤞Just ping me if you want to get rid of that badge.

Met a lovely lady at the phycopath horror amusement park tonight in newcastle, told me to post in here as she loved the car

Another thing to check is what type the buttons are. Some use voltage signals to operate lathing think that is probably for newer cars. Thinking you'll probably need the complete harness from the clock spring/spool to whereever it goes behind the dash. If you're just planning on fitting the ones for volume, then just terminating the other ones should in theory be fine as they won't be used. You'll also need the harness from the wheel to the radio as it will have some form of connector on it for the radio. Without seeing it, im guessing it will have a female 2.5mm or 3.5mm jack plug socket. Or possibly a male jack plug of the size mentioned above. Have a look in the integra forums (not the FB groups as the info in them is limited and sometimes incorrect!) for folk who are doing radio upgrades/double din conversions on their integra's. I think you'll be looking at getting these from America though as never seen any UK spec ones with those buttons fitted.

One lady owner from new , has every single mileage stamp from the same Honda dealerships from new 86k on clock, its pretty clean i did replace Headliner as it was sagging, just a little runs on rear arch's that i would love to sort out but not a clue who to go too this is my first car coming from motorcycles , yours looks so mint dude!

So are you looking to replace the steering wheel with one that has cruise control switches? Assuming that the steering wheel fitment on the ma9 is the same as the MB/MC one, then you're looking at wheels with the same fitment as eg/dc2. I'm fairly sure that ek and accord shared the same wheel, but it's a different fitting to ours. EDIT... Just realised that it looks like the cruise control buttons are an add on to the steering wheel. It might be worth exploring parts diagrams like on Honda parts uk to see what optional extras might have been available and get some parts numbers to help your search. If, as the first post suggests, the US integra had it as an option, then the cable fell from that could be compatible - in which case have a spy at acura parts websites in the US for parts diagrams

Hi mate, that was my wife 😊 She messaged me to say that she'd seen an aerodeck there, glad that you joined 👍 Looks like a proper tidy example, been ages since I've seen another deck round here. Welcome to the club matey.

Yeah fingers crossed I'll get to have a quick spin in it, the plan is once the wheels and tyres are on, better front brakes fitted, and a few other small bits are sorted I can take it for an exhaust at least as somewhat of a test drive. Hoping to avoid the cost of getting it delivered there as we don't have a suitable tow car unfortunately. The car came with 12 months MOT when I bought it so we have a bit of time.. technically I am sure it's not valid any more as no exhaust is a fail but just to avoid getting in trouble (hopefully)... that is the next priority item as starting the car up is really antisocial at the moment for the neighbours! The car does run and drive but I've literally only been up and down the driveway in it so far 😂 but nothing flew off/leaked out of it yet so that's good progress... It still needs a proper map on the ECU and there's still a whole bunch of other work to do on the suspension and then safety gear inside (half cage, seats, harnesses, etc) but we can sort that over the winter and be fully ready for a show/track day in spring. To be honest that is all fairly straightforward fitment wise and more about saving up the money to buy everything than actually fitting it that will take time!

Been chipping away at jobs the last few weeks and should be ready to drive soon. Everything in the engine bay should be done now - had a quick tidy up any loose pipes/wires and made sure everything was bolted down securely. It's not a super tucked show car but I think it's neat and tidy enough for the type of build that it is. Plus everything is easily accessible for servicing! Fitted a small washer fluid bottle - £10 from Amazon so it's a bit cheap and cheerful but it connected straight onto the factory washer pump connector and lines! Removed the rear washer pipe as we've already removed the rear wiper. The Hybrid Racing cold air intake bolts into where the factory washer bottle sits so it had to go. Picked up a set of Enkei RP01 (15x7 ET35) wheels for a reasonable price (about the same as i'd pay for a set of Rotas or similar). Will get some tyres on them this week and see how they look on the car. The main thing is they fit fine over the MG ZS front callipers with plenty of room to spare. I wasn't sure they would initially as the ZS came on 16s, although admittedly with much less offset. They've been rattle canned by the previous owner but honestly he (or she) has really not done a bad job at all. Initially I was looking to change the colour but for now they will do as is, for now I'd rather spend money on getting the car working than cosmetics!

Moving to Kelso in the borders mate, it's about 20 odd mile from here, nit too far but further into the borders. Closer to your direction lol. The village has been fine but the land with this house is too much to maintain, so bought a lovely detached bungalow with garage and a lot smaller garden. Will give us a lot more free time, and Kelso is our favourite borders town. Plenty to do there, plus it gets its fair share of classic car shows too along at the events ground. Win win!

Thanks, it's an alpine unit so even though it's new I think it fits with the 90s-ish vibe of the car. It's no doubt the brand I would've gone for if I had the money back in the day haha. It has RGB lighting so I can change it to march the dash which is nice (I'm being picky but I don't like it when the colours don't match!) The car came with a pretty retro looking JVC CD player but only 1 channel was working for some reason and it had a really shoddy aftermarket Bluetooth kit (calls only) with wires bodged in all over the place so I thought it was best to bin it all and fit something new I did consider not bothering with a head unit but even though the build leans towards track car, I've been in cars which are totally stripped before and whilst you might be able to get an extra 20kg out by removing the heater, stereo, half the dash, etc, it makes the car unusable for anything other than trailering really Yes he basically said he managed to get it all down the side by sticking a pair of long noise pliers through the popped out hazard switch and holding the cables out of the way of the head unit I've stripped everything from the front seats back and deleted the air con (it was broken anyway) so I'm not even sure I'll be able to hear the radio over the rattling but that's about the extent of the weight reduction for now. It should be a lightweight chassis anyway as it doesn't have a sunroof or other luxury features 😂

Thank you very much for confirming this and your post - makes my car build a lot easier as I was expecting to have to modify the stock seat structure (which in itself is a problem because my passenger seat was accidentally disposed of - best not to ask)

Got this photo from my father in law this morning that he got the head unit in in about 5 mins on the first try, always the way 🙃

More progress MB6 dash installed and MB6 cluster fitted Modified the centre console slightly (basically just removing the tray in front of the gear stick) to accommodate the shifter box Cut a hole in the back of the glovebox and mounted the ECU inside Installed a steering wheel boss and OMP 300mm wheel Unfortunately I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the head unit to fit in the dash as I was struggling with all the spiders web of cables behind so I couldn't get it rolling today 🥲 but it's a marathon not a sprint!

No pics unfortunately as had my head down but some good progress on the car: Engine back in the car and running without any timing codes, great success! Managed to fix an issue with the shifter, I wasn't able to select 1st or 2nd gear. I tried getting another set of shifter cables as the ones I had with the shifter were a bit too short and didn't look like the pictures of "correct" sets i'd seen. Turns out I had set the gearbox cable bracket up wrong - for future reference the brackets should be in the "forward" position as per this image (thanks to the helpful soul on facebook who pointed this out when I posted a last ditch question in a kswap group!): Started to fit an MB6 VTI dashboard that I was kindly gifted by a chap called Sam who I bought a few other bits off. My original one had the fake wood trim which wasn't my favourite and some absolute vandal had attached a phone holder directly to it with wood screws! Removed the passenger airbag, removed the cover from it and refitted the cover back into the dash to cover the ugly hole that was left Another solid day on it and I reckon first drive soon (a very short one out of VTEC as driving on the wrong engine map, with open headers on 15 year old budget tyres isn't the greatest idea!!)

Looking good if I do say so myself! Headlights definitely letting the side down, need a good polish and coating.

Time flies doesnt it! So an update on the car since last time... Managed to get all the arms etc painted and polybushed. Thankfully id treated myself to a press last Christmas so that made life much easier! (plus who doesn't want a 20t press in the garage..). The supplied grease for the bushes is sticky AF and a right pain to remove when it inevitably goes everywhere though haha. So that's all been fitted, plus the coilovers & ARB's. Rolled the rear arch at the same time to try and sort any clearance issues with the ride height & wheels. Did plan on rolling the front wings at the same time buuuuut... far easier to yank it with my hands and do it that way. At the same time i fitted a new oil pan/gasket to sort an oil leak also. Got everything sorted, then on first drive there was a horrible squeak/squeal from the engine.. great, much sulking and swearing occurred! Happened regardless of clutch position and no chirping. Took the belts off to check and no difference. Initially thought might be a pressure build up internally (old oil pan gasket was leaking quite badly..). Changed the PCV valve (after much swearing and grazed knuckles), no change. On that test drive i realised it was now only happening when oil got above 80c and only when clutch pedal was pressed in, So, gearbox off, clutch + flywheel bearing changed and fingers crossed that is that sorted. Just need to finish bolting everything up and we'll see (if not im going to cry). Still need to sort the rust patches. A section is on the otherside of the sound deadening on the floor so that will need to be removed first, luckily i may be able to get some dry ice so that should help! While sorting that I've busied myself with stripping/ sorting the interior, basic run down is: - Chopped down the centre console so it doesn't go down to the floor and more El/EK-esque, Also removed the part which goes around the gearstick/handbrake. - Removed the cigarette lighter from centre console and moved down the heater controls, this gives me a place to fit some temp gauges under the radio. - Wrapped the interior loom with braided sleeve. - Swapped electric window motors to manual on the fronts (1 kg saving) - Removed window motors from the rear and now the glass is bolted in place. - Made some new seat brackets for the bucket seats to fit to the stock runners, all from 6mm ali so exceeds Motorsport UK guidelines (safety first!). Still to do - Fake suede wrap the pillar trims & centre console. - Make some door cards for front doors. - Wire in gauges/make centre console plate for this. - Remove that thick rubber mat on the firewall behind the pedals. - Still sort the rust! Cheers Dan. PS. Sorry for the ramble!

Hello everyone, I am trying to convert my Aerodeck MC2 VTI to a "replica" VTI-S, as close as possible to an original one 😁 I already have some exterior parts, front/rear lips and side skirts. The fanblade rims and the aluminium gear knob, I'll replace for something different, because I don't really like those. Although, I am still missing a VTI-S rear badge, the original mats and the rear mid spoiler. Does anyone know where I can find these? Or someone willing to sell them? Any other important differences from a VTI that I should consider? 🤔 All MC2 VTI-S versions were released with fake carbon dash trims or only marble? This is the dash trims I have right now, are these similar to the ones available in VTI-S versions? Thanks for your help! 👍

That looks cool. Could do with that on my stepwagon as the radio is miles away!

I only want the CCswitch that match with the steering wheel if there is one and the cable reel with CC plug . All the other work is easy. Here is the audio controls that I have made in my last EK on s2000 ap1 steering wheel. All working for 10+years with no problem https://youtu.be/SSzox1OZ3PA?si=Zfc2L2NkCiWYsWUU

Sounds like a good one then bud. Cheers mate. I'm on my second shell though unfortunately... Rust got the better of my first one. I got my resto done at classic and retro near Langley Park, but that was mostly chassis work. There's aldo a fella up near Throckley that I was wanting to get some work done on my wife's old accord, but he was dead busy at the time - GBR body repair. Looks like he does good work. If you're Newcastle way might be worth checking him out

Welcome to the club mate! Your deck looks mint in the photos, nice to see another local one! You'll get all the info you need on these right here in the forum. 1st thing to do is check out our downloads section and get the official service manual for them. It's great for identifying parts etc and how they come appart. You'll be in good company here with your Civic as we all love these cars here, especially the Aerodecks. We also have a member called Paul who was a biker (bladerider929) so you'll see him on his bike in a lot of our civic5 meet/run videos. He's been off the forum for a bit but I'll let him know there's a fellow biker joined, sure he'll want a chat! Lol Start a wee project thread in the members cars section bud and get some more photos of the aerodeck up. Be nice to follow what you're doing with it. And big thanks to Karen (Mrs broon) for pointing you to the club. We also have a civic5 Facebook group for those who don't do forums, but the forum is where all the data on these cars is kept. We've still got the largest database on these cars there is, built up since 2009. Enjoy the club mate and hope to see your civic in the metal soon.

Hello Dave, thanks for your reply. I don't want to add CC on my civic. I want to use the CC steering wheel switch and through the cable reel to add radio controls. I did it on my last EK civic with success, but I have to know if there is a CC switch that matches on ma9 steering wheel, and of course if there is a cable reel with CC. If not, is it possible to retrofit the cable reel and terminate 2 extra wires?

Hi Dave, thank you so much for your help. It was really helpful 😀 I don't know what you mean about "R reg" but those photos were just examples of the parts I am looking for, not the actual car. What should be considered as "the later ones"? 🙂 The dash trims from the previous photo are the correct for a VTiS already? If that's the case, I would probably leave them as they are, I don't have any special preference for the fake carbon. From the remaining additions you listed, I will try to find the badge, the mats and the rear mid spoiler. The wheels and the gear knob I'll want something different, but it will already be close to an original VTiS with the remaining parts. As for the VTiS boot badge, I would be appreciated if you can let it got. Just ping me again if we are interested, please 👍

Hi mate. Yours being an R reg it has the correct dash trims for a VTiS already. The later ones had the fake carbon. List of additions the VTiS had are VTiS mats VTiS alloy gear knobhead with VTiS logo engraved onto it. (later ones had leather/silver plastic one with VTiS logo on it.) VTiS full lip kit and side skirts. VTiS rear mid spoiler (Aerodecks only, was also available in the accessories catalogue for standard Aerodecks) 15 inch VTiS alloys (Speedline Chrono for the early ones, fan blades for the later ones) All had pirates black mica paintwork, no other colour available. Think that's all the stuff they had. I've got the VTiS boot badge jn my garage, will need to have a think before deciding if I can let it go as they are rare as hens teeth now. Will get back to you on that one 😉

Wow, this is coming along nicely! Looks like that engine has been in there from the factory, really nice install that mate! Loving the wheels, think they'll look superb on it. What a cracking build to follow!

Those wheels look nice mate, should look good. Screen wash bottle doesn't look of place at all.. Handy to know. Do you think you'll get on the road before winter sets in (and the salt comes out)?

Haha, totally agree! For the extra cost per tank, the mpg and performance more than make up for it! 🤓

That E10 is absolute dog turd.. Only e5 goes in ours, especially after it ruined the injectors in Karen's accord. It's like a double bonus of super unleaded in top of not being E10 👌

Yeah, all sorted and driving amazing. Had been using that E10 unleaded fuel for a bit, but yesterday filled her up with E5 Esso super and the difference is unreal. She normally averages around 44 to 47mpg on that. On the E5, she's showing 53mpg (know that will probs go down a bit)! What got me was acceleration. On our way back from town 50/60mph limit, we got stuck behind a numpty who was slowing down to 26mph for 45mph bends! Gayle was in Foxy, her wee 70 late Micra, and pulled out and passed him on a bit where there's a very short straight. Knowing I'd need to be quick I dropped her into 2nd as normal and went for it. She accelerated so quick I hit the limiter in 2nd and had to quickly change up to 3rd! She doesn't usually accelerate that quick! E5 deffo makes a difference! So happy, got a car I always look back at when walking away, which I love the look of, it's quick and cheap as chips to run! All is good in Lexy's world! Bloody love this car!

Will have to have a spy at that 👍

It's mega tight mate. If you take the glovebox out you'll see that wee space I was on about. You might be able to cut some of it away (it's all plastic I think) to get all the cables through.

Deffo mate, been ages again lol Wish I'd got my finger out this year as DD was invited to a classic car show at BoNess, although we would have been away on hols anyways. She's already invited fir next year's show though which is nice. My good mate Iain volunteers to work on steam trains and some of the guys there are the organisers of the show. He told them about DD and they want her up there at the next show. 🙂

Nice one matey, I like Kelso 👍 We'll have to get together after winter.. Give you some time to get that deck back in the road 😉

All looking good, and glad you got the shifter problem sussed. My head unit just won't fit in with all the various plugs and adapters connected to it... Such a small space

Know the feeling about being lazy, 😂 Are you moving far bud?

Nice one. Sounds like the nightmare I had swapping the wheels on the stepwagon before going away.. Was supposed to be quick, but resulted in a snapped wheel stud, and replacing what could well have been the original brake pads given how they almost fell to bits.. Took bloody hours. Is she back sorted now mate?

I still love the go kart deck, but we've just done 100 miles out so round Cornwall in the stepwagon in the summer and it was spot on for comfort. Karen's civic is quite nice as a daily though.

Great progress mate! Those head units are a bugger to fit in our civics. Trick I've found is there us a slight gap in the dash on the left side at the back of where the head unit sits. You can just about manage to poke the excess cables down there when sliding the head unit in, then pull them through from the glovebox side (with glovebox removed). It's tight but makes it easier to get the unit fully in. Nice choice of head unit by the way!

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

Me being lazy! Lol Don't think she'll need anything tbh, maybe the usual handbrake adjusted but other than that hoping she passes when I get her booked in. In the middle of moving house again so will get her seen to after that. Got a mate who has a recovery vehicle and his rates are decent so he'll be moving her to her new garage in October🙂

Think I prefer comfort now, getting old! Days of lowered and beefed up suspension long behind me now. Even the TypeS I feel is as stiff as I'll ever go suspension wise. DD and Gayle's wee Foxt Micra feel like a floating carpets compared to Lexy lol. Can see Steppy on a nice set of 18" dishes alloys though at some point, think it would really suit them mate!

Spent the bank holiday installing the new timing chain/guides/tensioner, service manual print outs in hand and triple checking everything. All sealed up now, should be able to get the engine back in next weekend, all being well. Chain that was on was stretched - not by as much as some i've seen but the main difference I noticed is the chain tensioner was quite far extended whereas the new one is much less extended, maybe it couldn't take up the slack or something jumped on first start. Anyway, hopefully this is all sorted now. Also changed the crank pulley seal as I don't ever want to be going in there again!

So been having a weird graunchy feeling when driving for a little while, that the garage hadn't been able to find any issues. It's been like a notchy feeling through the steering, sometimes a bit vague, sometimes a bit of a groan when turning and accelerating. It got worse when we travelled down to Donnington for JDM Jam, and then when it's driven it for a slightly longer drive. I'd convinced myself it was lsd / gearbox related, so as a starter for 10 decided to go for a fluid change. Bought the 3ls if fluid, and took it to the guy who works on my car. When he called me, he said that there was only about 1/4 of a litre of fluid came out 😬😮😳. No wonder it seemed nasty when things had warmed up a bit. It feels so much better now, but hopefully no lasting issues as a result. Going to go for another change in a couple of months to flush any nasties out.

A rather inebriated looking K24A showed up this morning But it has the RBB markings on the head which is what matters - meaning it is the "full fat" version with 3-lobe VTEC and ~200hp. There is a similar looking version with 160hp and only 2 cam lobes so you have to be careful! Hopefully get that mounted up onto an engine stand at some point and take a closer look inside but so far so good. For peace of mind i'm going to give it a compression test and have a peek into the cylinders with a scope before going any further.

Best thing I can suggest is to have a look at the AC troubleshooting guide in the workshop manual (pg 22-7). If you haven't got it already, you can get it from the downloads section on here mate 👍