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I crashed my MB2, and the front bumper needs replacing. Where can I find a new one? I searched online and couldn't find any store that had new bumpers.

Thank you so much for all the information, super useful stuff, hopefully I can put it all to good use 😀 A really overdue update: Replaced the front calipers, disks and pads (took a long time as I lost the locking wheelnut key like an absolute spanner) Put her in for MOT and failed on the rear trailing arm bushing which cost £80 to get replaced Finally got my accord tourer off the road and am now using the aerodeck as my daily Got a bit of noise from the drivers rear brake, hopefully some incorrect assembly as I was doing it in the p**sing rain (hoping its not another caliper on its way out). And the CV boots on the drivers side are pretty knackered so need to replace them at some point Aiming to be more active on the forum this year and hopefully giving you guys plenty of reading material Looking at doing some audio upgrades in the near future any advice/experience would be very much appreciated. A very late merry crimbo and new years to all as well 😁

many thanks both, I had a quick look for repair panels yesterday, they do exist but not found for inner arch yet. also not sure how they compare e.g. in thickness terms with OE body shell ? suggestions on best place to buy the panels appreciated. otherwise I will just carry on googling. ours has been garaged (unheated though) so it is out of the weather, except when used - it's still the daily driver.

The good news is all the Civic M's MB/MB/MC are the same body parts in that area so repair panels for the Rover 45/400/MGZS fit. @Roverjoe in the forum has restored his in this area and has videos on Youtube. The Civic Ms seemed to have outlasted the 3 door civics rust wise, especially in the rear arches/sills, so think they've done well to only be needing this done now. I'm luck that my deck still is solid in the sills/arches etc but she's garaged all the time since 2013.

Yes mate, deffo ones that can be retro fitted so look OEM. Two things honda left out in the Civic Ms....cupholders and storage! Lol

Happy New Year to all our member. Hope you have a great 2025!

Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! 🎄🎄🎄🎄

That looks stunning! Loving that! @dr_broon yup, something about metallic reds that I just love! Gayles new Micra is a similar colour to that red too!

More work recently completed: Over the Xmas period I decided to do a total suspension refresh on the MB4. I had wanted to do it when i built the car but time and finances were not available. I stripped all suspension off of the car, this took 3 days due to a few issues I encountered. Front end: Firstly, the passenger side front lower balljoint was original to the car, and 130k miles and 25 years had not been kind to it. I ended up having to cut it, and source another set of front lower arms due to how damaged the balljoint taper was. Polybushing all of the front components was a doddle. Whilst the steering rack was out, i discovered the inner tie rods were different to that of every other 90's honda, so unfortunately these were not replaced (I will be converting to a DC2 rack in the future). Reassembly was smooth sailing, until one of the weldnuts sheared off inside the subframe. This meant everything had to come out again (Joy!🥴) I had kept the subframe from my old MB2 (RIP P970NET , gone but never forgotten), so a quick spruce up and this went straight onto the car. Up front I now had Hardrace lower balljoints and tie rods, all bushings were now Energy suspension poly units, I fitted OEM replacement honda wheel bearings from Tegiwa, some skunk 2 upper control arms, and I serviced my Racing logic coilovers. Rear end: This was far more of a pain than I initially anticipated, disassembly was plain sailing, except for the inner LCA bolts snapping (The usual suspects!). Once these were extracted, everything was cleaned and thread-chased. The rear trailing arms were easy to replace the bushes, I opted for uprated hardrace OE style ones for a little bit more compliance. I fitted Skunk2 upper camber arms and some generic chinese toe arms. These were a nighmare to fit due to the locknuts being jammed in the toe adjustment slot, this unfortunately required some "creative" adjustment of the toe arm pocked to allow clearance. The rear LCAs proved the hardest part, due to my Eg/DC2 kit having too small bushes to fit in the outer ends, this required some overnight parts from Scotland to get the right bushes. The next challenge was the shock mount bushes, whuch were the correct fit, however far too wide to fit into my coilovers, these, again, requiring some creative adjustment with a lathe to get to the right size. Whilst the rear was apart I took the time to address a siezed slide pin on one caliper and a few minor exhaust fitment issues. End result: The car now feels brand new, and feels incredibly agile and fun to drive. Body roll and "wandering" around the road has been massively improved. The ride is a tad harsher but this doe not bother me. This was definitely worth the hassle, and didn't break the bank either, costing around £600 in parts in the end I would highly recommend doing this to your MBs if you enjoy spirited driving or B road hacking, its made my MB feel like a racecar! What's next? Next on the list for the car is an update/improvement on the current ICE setup, and some minor bodywork items, with long-term goals being the aformentioned DC2 rack and a replacement engine Unfortunately no photos from the build, however next time I get it up on a ramp I will take some!

Hi all, the lower inner part of rear wheel arch on my Aerodeck VTi has some rust, which I have been aware of for a while but, on further investigation tonight, the near side has gone, i.e. it gives when you push it, the offside feels more solid. need to cut out to see how big the hole is, doubtless it will be gone on the sill section too. similar to this link (Adzvtis pics) just wondered if MB6/ MC2 are same in this area, and if repair panels are available (e.g. Rover 400 etc) , if rust is localised enough (yet to be determined) I guess patches can be fabricated and welded in. Also are there any how to guides, Roverjoe was doing a vid on his MB6 resto I believe. I had the sill front section and jacking points professionally done several years ago but the work cost a bomb then and so I think will have to tackle the rear section myself. many thanks

Just to be sure... No cupholders right? I've had my MB2 for basically 2 years and always had that awful feeling that I've been missing some hidden features or something! Drinks are always a mess to keep straight and it's hard to believe they flat out decided not to put a cupholder in this car haha. Maybe it's just a poverty spec thing and MB6 do have them with the center console?

Looks alright that, I can't put ine there now because of the flip out touchscreen. Damn!

Hi there, I got tagged, and thought id reply, Metal thickness for the inner wheel arches id recommend 1mm. Factory used 0.8mm so either them would do.

Not gonna lie, I didn't think it would fit this well! It barely weighs on the vent at all, since it sits precisely on top of the center console ridge, would recommend!

Hi everyone, My name's Nishan, since ive been reading through some of the threads I figured id make an introductory post 🙂 Ive got an manual MC1 aerodeck with a D16W4 on 118k that I picked up as an MOT failure about a month ago for £800, its got an enormous stack of history and im the 3rd owner Been fixing her up slowly over the last month, getting the bits done for a fresh MOT, rear passenger caliper was seized when I bought it and was pretty much the first thing I did along with discs and pads both sides on the rear. Next issue to sort was the horn not working which I stupidly assumed was the clockspring since I had the exact same issue on my first car which was a D14 mb6 and I know its a common issue on old civics. Replaced it and ended up buying a used horn since my multimeter packed up so I just guessed it had to be one of the two. Replaced both the sidelight bulbs since they had burnt out and lastly i had an exhaust leak from the mid section and backbox, since someone had previously taken a few speed bumps pretty enthusiastically and put a nice collection of holes on the bottom managed to score the backbox and mid section for £100 on ebay brand new and almost finished fitting it last weekend, just need to drill out the old bolts to the cat that are pretty in there and that should pass me the MOT fingers crossed 😀. Im thinking of doing some coolant bypass bits as I've heard its a good modification on the D series engines. If anyone knows a thread that explains how best to go about it or has done it themselves please let me know, would be much appreciated Im aiming to put it on the road as my daily as I'm currently dailying a manual honda accord CM2 2.2 diesel which has a nasty bit of timing chain rattle, so im gonna switch them around and daily the civic while I replace the timing chain along with any other bits that need doing. Any info in regards to preventative maintenance on the aerodeck would be greatly appreciated as im not super well versed in the common issues these suffer from. Cheers guys 😁

That looks amazing dude! The D16w4 is a solid engine and probably one of the best D series! (At least from what I know)

Hahaha, tell me bout it! Think I'm just getting/got old, but prefer really buttons. The pioneer is an amazing bit of kit too, has Spotify etc and nav via my phone. Can also change the colour of the display and buttons individually, so have got the led display set to an off white colour to match the dash. Can also customise the colours, so the keys light up in the exact same blue as the background on the speedo and rev counter. Actually looks pretty decent!

Deffo mate, roads up here are shocking with mud, salt etc so she's staying well out of it lol

That looks decent mate.. Ye canne whack proper buttons

Best place for her mate 😎

Nowt much to report other than DD is tucked up in the garage under her car cover for the winter. Enjoy the rest DD 🙂

Yeah, no way I was entertaining that price! Beginning to wish I'd bought that spares deck for £500 now! It's still there, but got loads more I need to be spending money on so once I'm done if it's still there I might jump on it.

Hope it's not too bad when you get to it.

That's a crazy price rise!

Yes, I used it just a few days ago, it worked like a charm, and what worked for me was briding the two pins as shown in the picture in the guide, and then turning on the igniotion afterwards. That made it start blinking.

Try our downloadable guide mate, it has photos of where the plug is located etc.

oh cool! I bought one of those vent cup holders just to see if they hold alright or not but its great to hear there are sort of real alternatives

Lol nope, Honda blatantly didn't fit any! No idea why, hot them in other Honda such as integra and accord etc. There are options though, as Rover made two that fit inside the centre front arm rest console. The other option is to retro fit ones from another car. I fitted the ones from the centre console of the integra typeR DC2.

Happy new year!!! late 😅

Are there any wire diagrams avaiable for electric windows? sorry for my bad english haha, english is not my main language😅

Alright thanks i will check that out!

Think there might be some in the downloadable civic service manual we have in the downloads section mate. The old Haynes manual for these also has the wiring diagrams in them too.

Unfortunately there'll be no new ones available, your best bet is finding a one that's being broken either on ebay or on Facebook.

Nope just 1.4

I just bought handbrake cables for the MB6/MC2 models. They have rear discs and in the case of the MB6 are the exact same chassis as mine. Haven't attempted the actual swap yet, but I've got all the neccessary parts lying around already and am pretty sure that the MB6 cables are gonna work. And don't forget that you'll need different brake lines, as well! (Just the flexible part, though)

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

Hi, are you sure you need new trailing arms? Upon a short google search, I stumbled upon this. " You do NOT need the entire trailing arm; ALL 88-00 civics and 90-01 Integras take the same shaped trailing arm. You need only the spindle, which is attached by a 24mm nut, and four T50 torx bolts. Please note that most swap the entire trailing arm because those torx bolts are in there VERY firmly. I have banged the hell out of a hammer and impact and still had them stay. I advise air tools, because even with all my weight and brute force, they may not come out. Brake lines may be stubborn if your car is older and rusty. The brake hard lines can strip easily if you do not use the proper wrench. A brake line wrench is what you need, which is a 10mm box end wrench with a slot cut out so that you can slide it over the hardline. You can use this on the bleeder screw too if you put the bleeder hose over the bleeder valve first so that brake fluid doesn't spill. On an EK chassis civic, the bleeding sequence is right rear, then left front, then left rear, then front right. Don't go in a circle, the EK chassis uses a crossed brake system, so go by this sequence to avoid any cross contamination of air into the lines, otherwise you may be bleeding all day. " Rear disc conversion, keeping the drum trailing arm | Honda D Series Forum Cheers!

See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha

Need to see the pics of this one 😎

Had me really invested while reading, love the wangan midnight reference haha. Sounds like an interesting project, especially with that amazing D16w4 these had, I'm kinda looking forward to swap one of em in my MB2 cause it's a LOT cheaper than a B18, I'm talking like... 2k or more euros cheaper, I could get one for 500 bucks complete. Also... no rear wiper? that takes courage! I find myself using it so frequently even in sunny days

Cool photos mate. Car looks sweet

link to the full album https://photos.app.goo.gl/nP1C951Gxi8voy1H6

ok, its been some time... but i want to share few photos from a civic photoshoot i made recently. This is how it currently looks like.

Love what you've done to save this car mate... Kudos to you 😎

you have to pull the tab on the short side and then pull it out. Just for the case someone goes by. I had the same issue :)

Cheers for the reply Dave Done some basic service, oil and filter and brake bleeding, air filter was bramd new when i bought it as well as the spark plugs looking fairly new, previous owner only had it 2 years and the bloke before him had it from new, its had some sort of rust prevention work previously on the rear arches from the original owner. Didnt know the boot floor was a common spot on these so will give a good check when I have the chance. Anyone know about exhaust manifold fitment on these? Got a friend with a japspeed 4-2-1 from his d16 eg hatch that he's k swapping. Would be a nice upgrade if it fits

Those wheels look mint mate... Very nice. Steering wheel looks good as well