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Hi Ben, The calipers in the photo are for the 260mm front brakes, not the larger 280mm front brakes. Manufacturer caliper numbers for the larger calipers are LCA333 & RCA333. You can use eBay to get the oem numbers from them. Basically the calipers are the same for the mg zs180, mg zr160 & accord of that era, but the carriers differ i believe (ive not checked any fit on an mb other than a zs). I can confirm that the calipers and carriers from the zs180 will fit onto a mb2 4x100 as thats what I'm currently running! If youre upgrading the brakes you'll need to change the master cylinder and prop valve if you don't have abs for it to work properly. My setup is: Honda Civic MB6 brake master cylinder Honda Civic MB6 brake servo Honda 40/40 brake prop valve (46210-S5A-912) Wezmoto Braided front and rear brake lines (700mm front / 560mm rear) MG ZS 180 Front & Rear brake calipers MG ZS 180 Front & Rear brake discs Cheers, Dan

Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.

See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha

Smaller power steering pulley (hopefully it will clear the bonnet without hacking any big holes in it) and 10% underdrive alternator pulley fitted As we've deleted the AC the factory belt was much too long (think it was something like 7pk1735 from memory). Managed to find a belt that will fit (7PK1400) - it seems ok but apparently there is a mark on the tensioner that you can check - i'll do this next time im with the car to confirm but seems like the right size. Engine mounts ordered - I went for Innovative Mounts for a Civic EG as the price for Hasport mounts in the UK is insane (£700+!) and I wanted to avoid ebay china copied junk on this project...

Thanks for the update on the fogs - I managed to get a set of good condition blanking plates so i've removed the fairly rotten big fogs for now but I may reinstate them later. Left the connectors tied up behind. A bit more progress on the K-swap side of things: Drilled a couple of holes in the firewall just under the heater outlet to allow for the shifter cables to pass through (no photo, oops) Got hold of a billet shifter plate designed for an EG but it was sitting too proud of the tunnel so drilled out the fasteners for the shifter base plate and removed it DC5 shifter mocked up - was worried that it would be too close to the dashboard but it seems to just about be ok - the shifter box came with a short shifter already fitted which should help things Clutch and flywheel test fit - just waiting for various missing bolts to arrive from Japan before buttoning it all up. Toyed with the idea of getting an uprated clutch but we've gone with Exedy OEM EP3 clutch for now as it's many times cheaper than an uprated one (£126 vs ~£400) and I reckon it'll be OK for NA power levels. Any future plans to boost the car would require an LSD as well as a clutch upgrade anyway! Flywheel is a Competition Clutch 3.9kg

Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! 🎄🎄🎄🎄

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

ok, its been some time... but i want to share few photos from a civic photoshoot i made recently. This is how it currently looks like.

Amazing reply from SirPaperbag! Just to add ive done this swap on my (non abs) mb2, but also upgraded a few things. My setup is as follows and works sweet: Disc trailing arms off a mc1 aerodeck MB6 brake booster MB6 1" master cylinder Mgzs 180 282mm front calipers (interesting the caliper is the same as from a 97-03 accord, not sure on the carrier) Mgzs 180 262mm rear calipers 46210-S5A-912 40-40 prop valve Regarding the rear arb - the rear brace that SirPaperbag mentions won't fit without modification. DeLaSoul mentions it in his build thread - if I remember correctly the mounting points where the LCAs mount to the chassis are about 8mm narrower on our MBs to EKs

Small update on the whole brake prop valve situation: Apparently, EG6 prop valves could also work, as they don't have ABS and 262/242mm rotors in the front and rear, just like our M-chassis Civics. So, if that's true, you could get a brand new valve for less than $200 from Japan. Part number for these bad boys is 46210-SR3-013 And you should be fine sticking with your original brake master cylinder + booster! But if you've got 242mm discs all around instead you'd need a "1725" valve (46210-1725-XXX) off a Del Sol, not off an EE/ED/EF Civic! (Different f/r rotor sizes)

Got some from Climair installed rn, and they fit very well. They're still available brand new. Only thing I had to do is grind off a bit of the holding tab in the front (was a bit too long) but that's completely normal with these things. And you can even choose between clear, tinted, and dark, which I find quite nice.

Good shout mate, I'll se about getting this added to FAQ. And thank you, cracking info there!

A reply this detailed deserves to be in the FAQ section of this site! It really seems a more difficult job than a cam swap and a tune haha If I ever manage to stumble upon the main parts for a cheap enough price (Hondas in general were very expensive relative to other cars here in Italy so not many sales...) to justify all the work I'll definitely try. Thanks for all the info!

Great post there mate

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

thanks Simon 👍 yes looking at the rubber parts, found the parts for the top e.g. Items 9 & 6 , struggling with the bump stop ATM, Item 11, PN 51722-st3-e01.

Quick photo from last night. Looking forward to the suspension refresh and getting this thing slammed. Other news - carpet and some dash trim is out ready for welding.

Shifter mounted properly in car and cables routed. Some hacking up of the console will obviously be required but I should be able to have all the dashboard etc back in Shifter cable plate in place - still needs a bit of work to get the other two bolts mounted and enlarge the hole in the grommet slightly. It's sitting at a less than ideal angle but it was the best placing we could come up with - the DC5 shifter cables we're using are on the shorter side Air con delete block off plate fitted so no huge hole directly into the cabin!

You can't really tell from the pics how grotty the interior is/was, but it's starting to come up nice. Used some leather cleaner on the seats yesterday and the filth that came off them was amazing. Still need another go and conditioning, but well impressed with how well they've come up. Not sure what to do about the bumper yet, as it's pretty bad with a big section missing... Tempted to go dial it back a bit with the bumper, but it does look cool on the import photos

Well, the tourer is no more, a nice chap from Wales bought it, and it's either going to be saved to tow his race eg, or end up as an engine donor for it. Karen's got herself a nice blue R18 fk civic, but it's not any good for family adventures. So we've just got a new project...

Sure, we paid £700 for ours plus £80 delivery (which I didn't think was too unreasonable to be honest). I think that's about the going rate for one really. It's a JDM import engine from an automatic car - unknown mileage but it should have had an easier life than a UK one. Typically since I've now bought one there's a k24a3 from an accord showed up on eBay for £570! It doesn't look as clean as ours but would likely be just fine.

Cracking work so far mate. You make it sound so easy lol. Hoping to see this at a Civic5 meet (if we ever get one organised again!) Be good to see it in the metal.

Welcome to the club and good luck with your project! Also used to (briefly) think about a K-swap a few years ago, but I quickly changed my mind after I found out that all the extra bits and pieces you need to make it all fit and work can easily cost twice as much as the K-series engine itself. And as far as I remember you're going to need EG parts for the engine bay, suspension bits and headers. While the M-chassis does share parts with the EJ/EK platform, Integra and EG parts are much more numerous.

Progress so far Started to strip out the engine - radiator (probably leaking) and AC condenser (also probably leaking) removed: Painting the rear bumper - to cover various marks and scratches but also somewhat of an experiment to see what it looks like with rubber strips colour coded (from photos i've seen I think it will look better) I've started putting together a list of parts that i'd like to acquire (the amount of small parts you need for a K-swap is crazy. It's all bolt on but you definitely need a spreadsheet or similar to manage it!)

New OEM-grade replacements should be a safe bet. Even if they are not as stiff as 'upgrade' parts (which are only an upgrade if you want to track your car), they are still a lot better than any old, chewed out bushings.

Yes it is a before and after. It has great shine when throwing flash light on it ☺️

More work recently completed: Over the Xmas period I decided to do a total suspension refresh on the MB4. I had wanted to do it when i built the car but time and finances were not available. I stripped all suspension off of the car, this took 3 days due to a few issues I encountered. Front end: Firstly, the passenger side front lower balljoint was original to the car, and 130k miles and 25 years had not been kind to it. I ended up having to cut it, and source another set of front lower arms due to how damaged the balljoint taper was. Polybushing all of the front components was a doddle. Whilst the steering rack was out, i discovered the inner tie rods were different to that of every other 90's honda, so unfortunately these were not replaced (I will be converting to a DC2 rack in the future). Reassembly was smooth sailing, until one of the weldnuts sheared off inside the subframe. This meant everything had to come out again (Joy!🥴) I had kept the subframe from my old MB2 (RIP P970NET , gone but never forgotten), so a quick spruce up and this went straight onto the car. Up front I now had Hardrace lower balljoints and tie rods, all bushings were now Energy suspension poly units, I fitted OEM replacement honda wheel bearings from Tegiwa, some skunk 2 upper control arms, and I serviced my Racing logic coilovers. Rear end: This was far more of a pain than I initially anticipated, disassembly was plain sailing, except for the inner LCA bolts snapping (The usual suspects!). Once these were extracted, everything was cleaned and thread-chased. The rear trailing arms were easy to replace the bushes, I opted for uprated hardrace OE style ones for a little bit more compliance. I fitted Skunk2 upper camber arms and some generic chinese toe arms. These were a nighmare to fit due to the locknuts being jammed in the toe adjustment slot, this unfortunately required some "creative" adjustment of the toe arm pocked to allow clearance. The rear LCAs proved the hardest part, due to my Eg/DC2 kit having too small bushes to fit in the outer ends, this required some overnight parts from Scotland to get the right bushes. The next challenge was the shock mount bushes, whuch were the correct fit, however far too wide to fit into my coilovers, these, again, requiring some creative adjustment with a lathe to get to the right size. Whilst the rear was apart I took the time to address a siezed slide pin on one caliper and a few minor exhaust fitment issues. End result: The car now feels brand new, and feels incredibly agile and fun to drive. Body roll and "wandering" around the road has been massively improved. The ride is a tad harsher but this doe not bother me. This was definitely worth the hassle, and didn't break the bank either, costing around £600 in parts in the end I would highly recommend doing this to your MBs if you enjoy spirited driving or B road hacking, its made my MB feel like a racecar! What's next? Next on the list for the car is an update/improvement on the current ICE setup, and some minor bodywork items, with long-term goals being the aformentioned DC2 rack and a replacement engine Unfortunately no photos from the build, however next time I get it up on a ramp I will take some!

Thank you so much for all the information, super useful stuff, hopefully I can put it all to good use 😀 A really overdue update: Replaced the front calipers, disks and pads (took a long time as I lost the locking wheelnut key like an absolute spanner) Put her in for MOT and failed on the rear trailing arm bushing which cost £80 to get replaced Finally got my accord tourer off the road and am now using the aerodeck as my daily Got a bit of noise from the drivers rear brake, hopefully some incorrect assembly as I was doing it in the p**sing rain (hoping its not another caliper on its way out). And the CV boots on the drivers side are pretty knackered so need to replace them at some point Aiming to be more active on the forum this year and hopefully giving you guys plenty of reading material Looking at doing some audio upgrades in the near future any advice/experience would be very much appreciated. A very late merry crimbo and new years to all as well 😁

many thanks both, I had a quick look for repair panels yesterday, they do exist but not found for inner arch yet. also not sure how they compare e.g. in thickness terms with OE body shell ? suggestions on best place to buy the panels appreciated. otherwise I will just carry on googling. ours has been garaged (unheated though) so it is out of the weather, except when used - it's still the daily driver.

Happy New Year to all our member. Hope you have a great 2025!

I just bought handbrake cables for the MB6/MC2 models. They have rear discs and in the case of the MB6 are the exact same chassis as mine. Haven't attempted the actual swap yet, but I've got all the neccessary parts lying around already and am pretty sure that the MB6 cables are gonna work. And don't forget that you'll need different brake lines, as well! (Just the flexible part, though)

Hi, are you sure you need new trailing arms? Upon a short google search, I stumbled upon this. " You do NOT need the entire trailing arm; ALL 88-00 civics and 90-01 Integras take the same shaped trailing arm. You need only the spindle, which is attached by a 24mm nut, and four T50 torx bolts. Please note that most swap the entire trailing arm because those torx bolts are in there VERY firmly. I have banged the hell out of a hammer and impact and still had them stay. I advise air tools, because even with all my weight and brute force, they may not come out. Brake lines may be stubborn if your car is older and rusty. The brake hard lines can strip easily if you do not use the proper wrench. A brake line wrench is what you need, which is a 10mm box end wrench with a slot cut out so that you can slide it over the hardline. You can use this on the bleeder screw too if you put the bleeder hose over the bleeder valve first so that brake fluid doesn't spill. On an EK chassis civic, the bleeding sequence is right rear, then left front, then left rear, then front right. Don't go in a circle, the EK chassis uses a crossed brake system, so go by this sequence to avoid any cross contamination of air into the lines, otherwise you may be bleeding all day. " Rear disc conversion, keeping the drum trailing arm | Honda D Series Forum Cheers!

Looks really nice mate 😎 @Dave 's fave colour for an MB 😁

Need to see the pics of this one 😎

Okay so i said id do an update some time ago and never got round to it, to cut a long story short, all the welding is now fully complete and the car now has its interior back in. but i thought id show you the work that i have done over the past year. Starting off with the Rear Drivers side sill, this side is the worst, The Passenger side was not too bad compared to this. so i started cutting away to see what the extent of it was. As you can see it is quite bad. Luckily the back part of the inner sill is nice an rust free, very solid in fact on both sides! It has only really crept up on the edges and further down to the front. I cut out the bottom bit as i am completely replacing the whole sill as it is knackered to say the least. A new section was made for the back part of the sill This section is the part where the trailing arm bolts up into, the lip was rusty, i was not happy leaving it like that so it was also repaired with 1.2mm steel not the cleanest job but strong and then filled with S50 Cavity Wax. some more reconstruction work of the rear sill because i cut away all the rust i had very little to work with to get the shape right so i had to make sure that it all lines up hence why i put a little piece in to the right of the image to give me a guide. It was also done to make sure the sill overlaps the middle section as the sill is made in 3 bits, Rear, Middle and Front, it is plug welded at the seam shown on this photo. Here is the sill panel all ready to be welded in making sure that it is also all lined up. A good photo to show the extent of the cutting that i have had to do on this side due to the rot. I thought if i have the whole panel then why not just replace the whole section, its easier, quicker and makes for a neater repair. More Cutting showing the extent of the rust around the wheel arch area. Not terrible but also not good. Some Crappy looking plug welds later and its finally in. I should really have removed more of the factory coating but nevermind... The main thing is is that the welds are strong and have plenty of penetration on the backside, they can be grinded down later. The wheel arch more opened up showing the extent of how much ive had to cut out. With even more to come! Because you cant get the inners for these ive had to make it myself, it was a pain but we got there in the end. I cut it down and got it welded in, Doesn't look pretty yet but will do later on down the line once finished. Next was to sort out this lip behind the bumper as rust had got there too! Lots more cutting atleast the rust wont come back, Right? A new boot floor lip made for the outer skin to weld onto. Another little patch repaired Fabricated the lower section of the inner arch where it comes down and meets the bit behind the bumper Here is the Inner Arch All welded up. Im pretty chuffed with that to say im a novice at this sort of stuff and it being my first car to restore. Heres it with the bumper on. A photo of all the rot ive had to cut out! Some more fabrication work, A new jacking point! Testing fitment of the Genuine wheel arch, The other one was used for backup in case i messed up. Inner arch all finished. Some more little reinforcers done for the Rear sill. Getting the Alignment right for the rear quarter panel, i butt welded rather than joggled. All tacked in place. all welded, put the bumper on to test fitment too. By no means perfect but for a first try at a wheel arch its not terrible, a few pin holes which were filled later. Lower section of the sill with the new jacking point welded. Some filler work to be required i think Atleast the panel gaps are good I will do this post in 2 sections, the next being the front sill and jacking point just to make sure it uploads with all the images etc, Overall im happy with the result, i think i could have made the wheel arch tidier but for a first time its not horrendous.

I started out with the heko ones, but then got a set of the Climair ones, which are a bit better.

Hi Dave, Sorry for the late reply. the filler neck on mine was a sod to remove as it was rusty, and the rubber pipe had hardened and lost its flexibility. the trailing arm and strut got in the way, so i had to lower the tank down and kind of feed it through. Good news is though, if yours is rusty a Rover 45 filler neck will be identical and probably much tidier.

With ECU stuff OBD1 really is the way to go, because whether or not you decide to chip it or put an S300 in it, it's basically the best choice to use an old OBD1 ECU. I've actually got a S300 installed in my Civic right now and since it's a pre-facelift it already was OBD1 from the factory. But OBD1 conversions are relatively easy and well documented online. Depending on your personal tastes you could also go with a standalone ECU like a Link or Haltech unit. They cost roughly the same as a S300, but offer a very different featureset and more modern management options. (But they are not plug-and-play) And while I don't have any experience turboing cars, I'd say a relatively safe power figure for a D16 would be 160 to 180-ish hp. (Those conrods are thin) Already took apart a spare D16Z6 that I bought this summer, as I plan to completely rebuild it for a high comp NA build, and when I held those tiny little spaghetti-conrods in my hands I almost couldn't believe that those suckers manage to survive regularly hitting 7500RPM!

Cheers dude! Checked for vac leaks already and none have came up, used soapy water, as well as the old brake cleaner technique Definitely reckon it’s throttle body related, will dive into it this weekend

sorry no pics of spam for you spam lovers, but Yokohamas good if you only need dry grip ?