civicturbo79

slacken the cables right off on the adjuster nut in the rear ash tray , make sure the lever arms on the rear calipers are all the way back on the stops , then pump the brakes or drive the car around the block then adjust the cables to where you want the handbrake around 4 clicks is about right . you need to have everything loss and the levers on there stops so the adjusters inside the caliper do there job first . then adjust the cable .

Any seat can be modified to fit in a car , but like said the evo seats and standard honda ones seem to be the most commen

pollen filter , sunroof drains , badly fitted windscreen .

you will have to wire in a switch or if the air bag clock spring is still the wire of the horn wires in that

The inner workings of the calipers fail on the rear its a massive commen issue across the hole civic range not just mb's. could be siezed pistons also ,i would get them recondictioned as a pair . second commen problem is that people keep winding on the cabl to get the handbrake to work better , this does not work you need to make sure the cables are loose and the levers on the rear calipers are all the way back on there stops . at that point pump the foot brake a good 20 times then adjust the cables to get a hand brake . if the levers are off the stops on the calipers (slightly on ) the calipers will not adjust inside for the hand brake . Rich.

Top work mate , ill be starting my eg soon . but im going for the full track set up.

No need to get fuel pump and injectors unless you are going turbo. Just get a fuel pressure regs and run that at 40 psi . You will have all the fuel you need for n/a tuning then.

It will have been air in the system from when you did the coolant change . They always take a couple of days to settle down again . You should only need to top it up a couple of times and I'm sure it will be fine.

100% you will need the eco and loom.

As long as the starter is out you will get the box off and you can then remove the rest of the bolt from the engine.

I would start with the slave cylinder on the box and rebleed the system and see how you get on . It could be a problem with the clutch.

I have never seen the crank case breather box leak . I would go for a sump leak .

£100 labour is about right for a clutch change. Rich.

This are always a pain in the a*s to bleed up . Drain the system and start again . Take you coolant and add boiling water to it so you have a 50/50 mix as you should and the fill the system. This will open the stat straigjt away forcing the air out of the rad . Run the car with the rad cap off and the heater on full and on hot till there is no bubbles coming out of the rad cap. Then refit cap. Rich.

congrats mate well done to you both. Rich.