DeLaSoul

Once I start I will do a write up of mine. Not hard, just takes a lot of time and patience. The heatshrink printer I bought is pretty awesome and will make a tidy job, damned if I'm paying $1000 for someone else to make something I can make. I can't weld, so I wasn't going to mess around with the chassis or roll cage, but wiring is another matter. Cabin will take x3 longer than the engine as I have to remove so much stuff from the loom, check, check and recheck then build everything into a new bundle.

Wiring easy, 2 wires and it draws 2A on startup, 1A running which is a fraction of the original. Okay it won't be as warm or powerful but it will be enough for what I want. I have the heated screen but I want to be able to move air in the cabin and keep me warm if needs be. Only opening vent in the whole car will be a little sliding vent in the drivers window which I don't believe is enough so the blower will move air both hot and cold. The main casing has 5 outlets, 2 will go to the screen to aid clearing, 1 to my feet and 1 to my face. The final vent can go to the passenger side of I can blank it off. I hope I will never be tempted to break the car out of the garage in bad weather but I want to be prepared if the need occurs

No no no - not mine!!!!! Just a picture example of what I'm attempting with the wiring. No K swap for me but I am dropping a B18C6 at a later date Heater has arrived, nice and compact for a 3kW unit!

I was wondering something similar on Accord components. The big brakes from my Civic fit directly onto my 05 Accord with no modifications! I then wonder if the ATR hubs will fit the Civic (if they are the same as the ITR) and then the top arms which look almost identical. If Honda are anything like Toyota then there is a massive amount of parts that will fit between the chassis'. I think your other issues will actually be the springs and the EDFC units clearing the bonnet. Might be worth taking photos with measurements of the stock shocks and asking Tein directly? Let us know what you find out!

No porn but I've known people get upset when I start cutting up perfectly serviceable parts! It looks a mess now but it's a means to an end Thanks. Moving forward on the harness and bare minimum heating system next once the heater matrix arrives. I've bought a heatshrink label printer from eBay and a harness, next job is to locate the MIL spec harness connector and start doing this: But hide as much as possible. I want every plug labeled though just in case I have to start fault finding and finding a cheap Dymo heatshrink printer will make it a clean job! Long nights ahead I should be able to match this as this is one job I do like is wiring!!!!

That had occurred to me. I originally wanted just a small pod above the column with just the dials and a small unit in the centre console for switches but this will be a little neater once done. I will smooth it all off and make it in sections for quick removal, but it will serve to cover up the wiring and mini heater matrix I have on order. First rule of going fast is looking good!

Some small updates, well maybe not so small........ On the trailer and heading home All tucked up at home ready to start the next phase of work. Need to make a dashboard of some description, so the next bit is not for the faint hearted. Leave this thread if you are easily offended!!!! The dashboard will take me some time to get right yet. I've cut the drivers side in so it fits around the cage. I'll bolt it down to what I have left and close off the end and all the holes. Finally I'll remove the shape and use it as a plug for a fibre glass mould. It will take quite a while, and I'll be diving back and forth between that, wiring and brake lines but I have plenty of time now the chassis is back.

Price can depend on a lot of factors. I've had one of my old cars changed from Blue to gunmetal but I did all the prep, stripped all the windows and trim and delivered the shell to them. They fitted a few new panels (front wings and bonnet) and aligned them and resprayed the entire car for £800 cash. I refitted the windows and body trim. I'm looking to have my deck resprayed inside and out for a colour change, have one rear wing replaced and new sills fitted. Quote so far for the wing, inside and sills is £1000. As the body shop will be crawling over a roll cage and getting into all the little areas I think this is a good price. They will need to see the rest of the car to give me a firm price for all as there are loads of little dents and knocks I want taken out of it but I'm expecting a quote of £2000 easy. Mine will literally be a bare shell on rollers to get that price and I will rebuild it when it comes back. The more work you can do the cheaper it gets and if you can strip all the little trim bits not only will it save money and chance of any overspray which is my biggest bug bear when spraying any car - I see it and wonder if it's been in an accident or just been botched lol

Tuck? you mean throw True, I was hoping for a blast this summer but losing 5 months to the fabricators so far was way more than even I expected. It will be road legal if I fit a sports cat to the exhaust. I need to read the rules of the track day challenge but I think to compete it will have to be road legal. If they fail it at MOT for any reason then they need beating with a wet fish, it's stronger than most any car on the road with all that tubing inside

Took a week off before I fly off to far away places (and won't be bringing back 100 sets of anything! ) to go up and do a few pieces to the car. Everything is in place for the me to start setting up the driving position so we placed the pedal box and seat to get a feel for what it will be like in the car Pedal box with and without false floor. To stop me jamming my heels in the floor ruts they've had to lift the box a little and put a flat plate over the flooring. As with everything else it's top notch. I tried to use the pedals while wearing trainers and I keep catching the throttle when going for the brake but it's fine when I'm wearing racing shoes, still need to be careful! Started to weld up all the holes in the bulkhead that I won't need. I'm going to be a tart and do a wiring tuck so these aren't required. Welding up the engine mounts to give the everything a little more strength. Coming along nicely, but I doubt I'll have the car on track this summer, looking more and more like next year before the deck gets used in anger

Minimum order 100 sets!!!!! Case isn't that big mate Also didn't know that Skunk2 came from that area of China I guess these aren't available from Skunk2 in the UK? I can't remember who imports them now...... Edit - Quick check - I'll be 1150miles from there as the crow flies...........

I'll be up in hills working near the Tibetan border, not many car tuning places where I'm heading! b****r, the only ones I can find on ebay are out there! I'm going to regret asking this but where are they in China? I'll be flying to Hong Kong then transferring to the mainland and be over there for 1-2 weeks at a time from June until September on and off

I'll be up in hills working near the Tibetan border, not many car tuning places where I'm heading!

No movement here, in fact I've been mega busy with work so haven't had time to do anything Civic related Heated front screen has arrived from the group buy which looks awesome but no chassis to fit it to. I'm going to be over in China for most of June so I am trying to get the chassis back before I go so the bodyshop has several weeks to paint it while I'm away but I don't hold out much hope as the fabricator has had several full blown race cars in to work on so mine gets pushed to the back of the workshop. It'll be great once it's done, just taking months longer than planned

Hi, I fitted the Energy Suspension master bush set to my MC2 last year with no issues but my kit was the 16.18103G Civic/Del Sol kit. I had a few bits left over but it covered everything except the rear toe link bushings and the trailing arm bushes. Not sure how big the difference in the kits is, maybe the "G" at the end makes is the one you want? Sorry I can't be more helpful Dave

No plans to, fair weather racer I could opt for a semi slick tyre but I wanted max grip Cheers. Slicks are measured in width and overall height - not aspect ratio. A friend of mine runs in the Hyundai Cup put me in touch with a race tyre company and managed to get a good deal on some new slicks @ £75+VAT a corner. Okay my speedo will be out by about 4mph @ 60mph as they will be a bigger tyre but it's not going on the road so shouldn't be an issue

Exactly, and as mine is going to take a while to complete I need to move the chassis around my garage and to and from the body shop

Finally found time to rough out the stand on CAD. Got all the steel and wheels now so just need the car to make a few measurements and the welding can begin This will pick up on the front at the lower wishbone rear pivot and on the rear at the LCA inner mount. The upstands and trolley length are adjustable so this should fit the EG,DC,MB and MC chassis if I've got it right

Yeah I will need the arches rolling front and back, but I will leave that to the body shop when they go to paint it inside and out, which means I have to buy the wheel and fit the new hubs front and rear Once the arches are done I can take it all back off again for final prep and paint, just a ball ache to do though. I have SW98's on at the moment, but my new hubs are 98 Intergra so will need a 5x115 wheel. I'm looking at Braid Winrace A or Team Dynamics 1.2. Braid are a little bit more expensive but they are custom made and if I give them the dimensions of the brakes and suspension they will tell me if they clear so there is no issues. Need to choose soon as they take a minimum of 3 weeks to come through from Spain!

Fuel cell cut out is finished, dropped through the chassis but left a little clearance for safety Battery mount is fabricated, just needs to be cut and welded to the chassis Next job is finding a set of wheels and tyres that will clear everything. Not a simple job when I'm looking to use racing slicks of unusual sizes Not much room up front with the current 16x7 ET50's, I'm looking at 16x8 ET38 with 210/625R16 slicks. Wheels should clear but tyres might cause a clearance issue on the arches.

My chassis will be stripped of every nut, bolt, wire, clip, pipe and piece of glass. I need the interior, engine bay and underside painted so might as well do everything. The frame will have wheels and bolt up to the suspension mounts front and back so I can still work under the car and roll it around to move it. Got all the steelwork and casters this week, just had no time to finish the drawings

Okay, this is going to be a little bit of an odd one but does or will anyone need a chassis trolley? I am building one specifically for the civic chassis that if I've got it right will fit the MB/MC's and possibly the DC2 and EG platforms. I need one to move my car around when it goes to the body shop and don't trust just strapping it to a frame on wheels so I've designed a frame that will bolt to the suspension points front and rear and will allow the chassis to be moved with ease. I've put my initial sketches below, and will draw up the design over the weekend on CAD. Once I've built mine if anyone want the plans or even buy/rent mine then it is here for the club I've got all the steel and wheels on order so will start the frame next week and once my car comes back I will finish it on the car to make sure it's adjustable in the right ways! Note: this is not going to be designed to take the full load of a complete car at this stage!!! It is meant to move a chassis around. With stronger casters then is could be used to move a complete car around but the cost will go up.

Hi guys, I am useless with offsets and tyre sizes etc but I found this online and thought it might help other like me who struggle with this http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp Still relies on you to know what you have on the car and clearance but I found it useful so putting it out there! HTH Dave

Awesome build. You know it's right when it looks like the engine was meant to be there, not shoe horned in and messed around with like some K swaps I've seen. Also looks like the P/S pump sits low enough that you didn't have to mod the bonnet. Now about putting that lot in my MC...............

I was thinking more H2B but K swap could work. Where did you say the car was, Manchester? I'll need it back for a week to remove the engine and any last bits of trim then it's into the painters. They still have a few little bits to do so it will be a few weeks away Quality is top rate so far, but then these guys build BTCC cars so they are pretty good to begin with