DeLaSoul

I took a few days of work to sort a out some stuff for the car. Collected the new perspex window kit from Plastics 4 Performance so if any other crazy Aerodeck owner wants them they are now available as they have the templates. Test fitted them yesterday and they all lined up properly and the back windows all have the black edging to hide the sealant so a proper job. I will get pictures when I remember to take them Also removed all the doors and cut away the bits I won't be needing anymore- Another few kg's for the bin Finally, the detail of the cage has begun so I now have harness bars Not long now until I get the chassis back!

Screw them, they've lost my business then and a few others I saw there I would fail on the cage, seat, steering wheel and HANS device. UK track days it is then, which will be a lot cheaper and easier to get to I could probably go round the ring on an organised track days where it is closed to the public but I won't hold my breath. Thanks for the heads up though, I didn't know any of this. Seen that first hand, €2900 total bill for one poor idiot that got it wrong. Cheers, slowly coming together now

I liked the stock brakes but for the Nurburgring I though I'd better put something better on and went for EBC. I had a bit of trouble with the EBC discs & pads combo so decided to improve the brakes again - these weren't my original plan! I would've been happy with some EP3 type R callipers and bigger discs. These do look cool though. Not just me then. To be fair though they did a good job of sorting it, still got that nice stainless exhaust rasp. That's a shame about the exhaust, when I had mine fitted last year, i told them to leave plenty of room for an ARB and even with the increased bore it doesn't come close Didn't even think about it with mine, it was fitted before I even knew you could fit an ARB to the back

I was hoping to keep my wheels but I wanted the bigger hub bearing and drive shafts My "old" wheels are unmarked so I hope I can get a few £££ back on them. I went for these 6 pots as the pistons are different sizes. Theory is that the larger piston engages first to bring the pad in gradually and reduce snatching of the brakes. Have to test that when I get the chance. I can't remember how big the disc is, but I can measure it when I get home. I ordered this kit back in November and the bells and carriers had to be custom made to fit the ITR hubs, slept since then. I have a set of larger rear discs and updated carriers to fit as well, but these use the standard rear calliper. Larger disc (even with same swept area) = more braking power. Also saved me buying more bits!

Been a while but I'm back from sunny Oman Progress on the roll cage has been slow over Christmas but it is looking good Triangulation has begun, and they have beefed up the rear towers They have yet to fill in the roof but it all looks good so far. Got a call last week to say my brakes have arrived so I popped over to collect them Saturday. I'll let the pictures tell the story 98 spec ITR hubs with custom carriers 6 pot calipers I can't wait to fit this lot to the car and test the new rear setup

Cool, looking forward to getting mine

Nope. Still stock 4x100 with the crappiest pads TRW. I'm just waiting for them to ruin the discs completely and then maybe I'll go for stock MB6 setup. Yea I would go for the mb6 hub conversion 282s front 262s back 1" master cylinder servo With the above setup you will have good stopping and a nice brake pedal feel Braided hoses are good too. I will have most of the bits (inc. the master cylinder) taking up space once I get my car back PM me

If it's both windows then what's the common link? Power to the window control regulators/relay and earth. Poor earth connection would give you the problems you describe which would be my first choice. Following that, check the power window relay (see page 1087 of the Civic manual, which you can download from here 1"£££$££"! ) as this too is a common link in the system - could be loose of cruded up? Let us know how you get on

Just a quick point to make on this thread when you're talking about changing hubs - ask yourself why Honda make 3 different hub sizes? 4x100 - Normally found on smaller Honda's - such as Jazz and Civic. This has the SMALLEST wheel bearing. 4x114 - Normally found on higher power Civic's (and older intergra's), older lower spec Accords etc. This has a larger wheel bearing. 5x114 - Normally found on highest power Hondas such as the later DC2 Integra and Accord Type R. This has the LARGEST wheel bearing. Larger bearing = larger load capacity. Downgrading your hubs is a bad idea!!! Hubs on the MB6/MC2 are bigger as they have bigger wheel bearings so they are not the same as the other Civic 5 models. There are also slight differences in the offset of the hub, and to be honest I don't have that info to hand but it is out there on the web. I would NEVER recommend going down in hub size, go up - there is a reason they go bigger! I know from my car that going from 4x114 to 5x115 I have also had to change my drive shafts to the bigger 36mm nut ones to match - which also take more load I have been told (although I have yet to confirm) that my original MC2 brakes will hook up with little/no modifications to the larger hubs. At worst case i have to use a 1mm washer on the calliper carrier, but as I am using after market callipers and discs this is not a problem for me. For offest explanation: http://www.alloyguide.com/pcd.php HTH Dave

I will try and visit the fabricators more often for updates! Not sure when the car will be finished tbh. It was originally supposed to take 2 weeks but I have asked them to do a few more jobs and they are now only working on the car in between other projects. They had an ex works DC5 Integra and a Suzuki rally car on the go so my track car is low priority. I'm in no rush as the quality of the work so far is outstanding so I don't want to push them.

Lol I wish. Tank out job for the pump - I checked

Will do. I want to weigh all the dead brackets worth of metal they've taken out, it was a fair size box! Cheers. Hoping it'll all be done ready for next spring so I can start setting it all up for another shot at the Nurburgring. Plastic side windows will be ready next week so I can start fitting them over Xmas. I also put my name down for the heated front screen so should have no issues seeing where I'm going! Hear that a lot, or is that I'm mental

Okay a small update (as I don't have the chassis to work on at the moment ) Called in to see the progress of the roll cage, forgive the photos as I knackered my phone so I'm using a prehistoric brick of a unit until the new one arrives Drivers foot-well before and after: Second skin removed and smooth floor underneath - this will allow them to push the pedal box further View up into the roof: Sunroof gone, all support beams gone, cage up into the roof Work in progress, still got to fit the fillet plates to tie the A-pillars back to the cage: Amazing what a wire wheel can do to remove sound deadening

lol, looking forward to it though! Be interesting to see the finish you get using that method for laying up the cf - resin infusion will give you an awesome end product but is way more time consuming to setup

I have no bodywork skills so seeing all the work you put in and how well it came out I wish I could do it, me with welding gear is probably not a good idea though Couldn't agree more though, if you have the skills to do a proper job then you want it the best it can be. I think the only true way to ditch the Honda alarm/immobiliser is to buy a new ECU but I'm not at that stage just yet.

bodywork came out good, better than the bodyshop that did my cill/door jam last year!! For a rattle can spray job looks impressive to me. On the alarm- did your mate manage to bypass the Honda transponder system or do you have the 2 running in parallel? Just wondering as I want to remove the alarm from mine completely

Cheers I've seen the Edelbrock one but didn't know they did different variants depending on top end or mid range, thanks. Once I work out what route to take with the engine then I will start looking at them in more detail but all this is good to know. I think at this stage once the chassis is back and painted I will run it with the stock engine and see what it feels like with all the weight saving and then look at what the engine needs.

people always want tintops, as you put it, for track weapons, if its not a track car then a sun roof is a bonus True, I'm having a panel welded into my roof to get rid of the sunroof in mine

Cool thanks. You might be able to do it without taking the dashboard out but you'd have to push the wires through from under the dash before the new screen goes in. Not a job I'd want to do after seeing what is under there but again no impossible. You could use the old trick of using welding rod or a metal coat hanger to push/pull the wires through. As for the separate switch, this is quite easy providing you have the switch and somewhere to locate it. It would be x10 easier if it could be done while the old screen was out before the new one goes in Photo below shows the interior with the dash removed only (early on in my build ), and depending on where the wires end up depends on the route. If they end up in the middle (which I hope they do) then you might be able to just lift out the top centre vent, remove the bolt holding the top of the dash in and pull the dash up a little to feed the wires through, as shown by the red lines. If its the sides then it may be a bit trickier but with the old screen out you would have room to work from the outside in, as shown by the blue lines. Maybe Jason could shed some light on this???

Close, 10kg when I finally weighed it all last night

To make a harness before the screen goes in you would need to know where the terminals would end up (safe guess is at the bottom middle of the screen). Honestly it's not that bad to do, but to do it properly I would take the dash out to get the wiring in. Luckily I've already done that to mine If we get enough people committed for Jason to place the order then I will do a "how to" on the harness build how's that?

Okay all the bits to wire it up, using the original rear heated screen switch as the trigger (so both come on together) will come to a staggering £17.50 delivered!! That would include 2 relays and mounts, fuses and 25A cable. Wiring diagram would be as the one Jason already posted, doubled up to handle the 2 heating elements in the screen. If you've done an AC delete then power can come from the AC fused line under the bonnet for ease.

I would think that the roof internals are very different between an MB6 with sunroof and MC2 without. Photo below is on the MC2 with sunroof internals, and as you can see there are several mounting points around the roof for the sunroof mechanism, plus the way the roof skin is cut and folded to make the sunroof seal. I think this is not feasible. It's not impossible!

I can design it, I can even cost the relays and mounts etc. if that's an issue for people to find the parts. Give me a few hours and I'll draw it up but the link Jason has placed on here gives the basics of it.

I'm looking into having a heated screen for mine (no brainer really, I don't even have a heater matrix in my car lol) so I am defo up for this. I've been looking around the net and found a few companies that do them, none willing to help. I then found someone saying "I've had a call about this, speak to Jason", which I've now done and guess where I end up Jason - please +1 me to your list as we spoke about on the phone Come on guys, must be a few more out there looking for this? Especially those with AC delete? I'm quite happy to work out all the wiring and do a guide for those worried about that side of it. Given that if you have deleted the AC then you'll have a spare power feed available from the fuse box