Hondamad1988

That's the one Dave! First time I've done brakes hoses, after a while of wiggling and looking at it thinking wtf is this mysterious fixing. Went back out this morning when it was acceptable to make a bit of noise and gave it a little tap underneath, popped straight out. Managed to get front complete today, looking very smart with new mtec discs and fancy green Hel lines fitted. Took a couple of goes figuring out best orientation of the brackets as you drop from 4 bolts to 2, but plenty of clerence full lock both ways now. Just the rears to do and a full system re fill and blead and it should brake better than ever before.

So, going for full MTEC brake change and fitting some HEL braided lines at the same time. Just gone to take the first front brake hose off. All gone smoothly, drained hose, all disconnected, removed the sliding metal clip for the top fixing where the hose connects to the brake line. AAAnnnndddd.......... What the chuff is still holding this onto the bracket? Ive unscrewed the brake line nut, removed clip on top, can't anything else that should come off or move, is it just the power of 20 years worth of corrosion holding it on? should it pull down through the little bracket? or it it part of the bracket?

Just went to change wheel bearing and the bearing shaft is heavily worn. Has anyone near glos got a front hub assembly?

Just went to change wheel bearing and the bearing shaft is heavily worn. Has anyone near glos got a front hub assembly?

Thanks guys, all good pointers. I checked the relays in engine bay, all working fine. Although I could remove the relays and the lights for both the butttons stilled stayed on but there function didnt work. I looked around for other relays inside, and sprayed some WD in the ignition. At this point it was still doing the same thing, my mate arrived to take the car up to his garage to get his multi meter on it and test the battery discharge and other bits. He couldnt find a problem. He dropped the keys off, I took off the battery and charged it again, put it on in the morning, the cars been fine since. All lights turn off and blowers turn off aswell. My conclusion is the WD40 worked some magic in the ignition it just took a few trips to do it magic, or there is an intermitent relay somewhere getting stuck on. Looking at the wiring diagram in the manual the only other relay I can see it could be is apparently there is one behind the heater controls which the Manual calls the Starter Relay? But isnt clear if this is for the starter motor or the starter relay for that controll panel. Annoyingly, I cant test that theory untill it stops working again! :-/

Hi All, The lights stay on the heated rear window button and the interior air circulation button, and you can also turn the blower fan on with the ignition/ engine turned off? This old battery first died from what I think was this issue last winter after stopping at a freinds for a few hours. That battery lasted ok from then till few weeks ago when is died twice in a day , replaced battery for new and all seemed fine, untill today. Hadnt been driven for a day or so, the lady got it jump started from a neighbour, went swimming then came back out to find it had died again. Looks like she made sure everything was turned off after get home as ive tested it this evening and started fine at 18.30 then again at 23.00pm no problem. Ive tightened the negative battery terminal as it was a tad loose, and checked any relevent fuses but cant see again that would cause this problem. Went the old battery died a few weeks ago I noticed the lights had been on, I jump started it, took it for a drive and went I stopped I could turn off the ignition and the lights where no longer on and all switched off fine. This evening however, ive been out once, and am also tresting it now and every time I turn off ignition I can can still operate the blower and the two lights mentioned above. Could this be an ignition switch problem? Or is there some cut of switch somewhere? I hate electrical faults....

Think he gone 10 mm spacer to raise the fronts

I bought a new set of MG zs rear shocks and springs of eBay last year for 100, a new set of front mgzs shocks off eBay for 100 and a set of eibach 30mm springs which where a couple of years old for a 100, so 300 in total, so it was a tough decision between this and Koni set up but I'd allready bought the rear shocks and eibach springs. Rimmerbros bros have the front shocks, I think the rear are out of stock on Rimmerbros tho?

went to a different alignment place this time, and they havent listed caster, the space is there its just grey with no reading. I had it done a month ago with standard MGZS180 shocks and springs at a different place I think they listed caster, i can try i dig it out if it helps? annoying cant compare with eibach fitted tho! Can you buy caster adjustment kits?

Cheers man, I read some of your previous posts which helped my decision. Ive allways avoided coilovers as I would spend the rest of my life adjusting the ride height thinking it could be better, Ill waiting till i can afford my own laser alignment ramp Might try adjusting chamber on rear in spring, and concentrate on tidying up body work and sorting exhaust for now. Only odd thing i noticed is the steerring rack almost feels like a longer rack at low speed, may also be that I just got used to the work van. Will post pics after we return from our Sherwood trip, cant be posting photos with the big nasty grey halfords roof box.

Well after months of harassing you guys while I faff deciding what shock and springs combo to settle on, a nakard front shock forced my hand. We've ended up with brand new MG ZS 180 V6 shocks, and MB Eibach 30mm springs all round. Got the 4 wheel alignment done today, no chamber adjustment, so fronts are 1.78 degrees, and rears a little too far at 2.48 degrees. But i've got to say in comparision to the the mgzs springs it now feels so much nicer. The MG springs I found too harsh on the front as designed for the weight of the 2.5. Aswell as being harsh, the front sat too high, and the rear bounced around what seemed like too much. The car now feels smooth, but firm. I would almost describe it as feeling more natural. Haven't tested for a proper run round the country lanes as the family was on board, but feel much more planted and controlled. A little more twitchy hitting bump on the duelly and motorway but that is most likely the chamber settings. Some people mentioned them begin too harsh, I'm not sure if this was with these springs fitted to Koni shocks, as overall they seem alot smoother and less harsh than MGZS springs, while also feeling firmer on turn in. Currently avoiding pot holes like a hawk, but the odd harsher bump has maybe been a little harsher than before but not dramatically and the overall improvement in general driving they are definitely smoother overall. I will look into chamber adjustment for next summer. I read somewhere recently that up 2 degrees chamber is the optimum for handling, so now considering just getting the rear chamber matched to front, anyone got an opinion on this? Re ride height the front now just sits a little lower than rear as Honda originally intended

Well fitting the new mg zs shocks to front tomorrow, and fitting the civic 30mm eibach pro kit all round, are the top mounts the same for MB and MG? Got an MB and MG set if they are the same will just pick the best from each. I should know when i look tomorrow but if anyone knows will save me half an hour of OCD checking and measuring!

Cheers Guys, good tips, especially on the primer front. I have a slight concern with gloss black on pirates black mb6 looking tacky, looks perfect on Huberts great contrast to the white. The satin looks really smart on the the rear number plate surrounds so may grab some more if homebase still make there painters touch smooth satin black. The can I have is about 5 years old bought and never used on the ED7.

wheres this breaking? link?

Thinking of spraying the bump strips all round in satin black. Anyone tried this before? Was thinking mask off the surrounding parts of car, run down, and either spray satin black straight on, or use some kind of plastic primer, then 2 x coats of satin black.

Rears I bought of eBay last year, not sure if there still there. Fronts, a company on ebay had a batch taken from the production line available: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-MG-Rover-Front-Shock-Absorbers-400-45-MGZS-NEW-ALL-MODELS-AVAILABLE-/370891591726?nav=SEARCHsee Message him to see what he has available, there was only a couple of Mg Zs 180 shocks left when I messaged. Alternatively you can still get the rears, and passenger front from Rimmerbros online, but they don't have any drivers fronts anymore. TBH if I hadn't bought the rears new last year I would of gone for Koni str shocks, or Civic Mb KYB replacement shocks as these should be easier to get hold of in future. A Koni kit can be had for 280 from larkspeed. A set of 4 KYB can be got from mister auto for 170 but you'll need springs aswell.

I'll have a spy aswell when I'm changing some other bits over. If you move it, definitely take some pics!

Why will the performance suffer? MORE efficient cooling surely better?

To be honest it only came to me last night while writing that post, I can't see it being too difficult, the brackets should swap over, not sure if there's a hole for bottom bracket on the other side? Sourcing new pipes and extending the fan wiring will be the hardest parts, those pipes would want to stay away from the manifold!

Well finally decided, bought a new set of MG ZS 180 front shocks to match the new ones I got on the rear earlier this year. So will be a full set of New MG ZS shocks with civic 30mm eibach pro kit fitted. In total it ends up totting up to £300 cost in total, similar to Koni kit from Larks but with better springs. Will up date with pictures once fitted. Annoyingly its my passenger shock that's gone and I thought the spare I had in the shed was a drivers side, new shocks have arrived and after lining them up it turns out my spare one was a passenger side, could of just fitted that and swapped springs weeks ago Atleast I'll have a full spare set for the front now! Am I correct in assuming the top mounts are identical for the mb and mgzs? will re use the civic set if poss as in better condition.

Fairpoints, I think I'm just used to my old crxs and boxy civics having full size rads, but after your comments I've also thought a full size rad only increases the surface area which will get weathered and stone chipped. Will stick to standard, remove air con and maybe move rad to aircon side to allow better cold air flow to air filter

Cheers Broon, I wonder if the front bounced around because the back was firmer? Either that or the front shocks where shot, and the Koni on rear highlighted it more? I'm on the mgzs shocks and springs currently, and the back seems to bounce alot more than the front, possibly because the front is alot firmer.

Has any one got a shot of there mb6 or mc2 on eibach pro 30mm and standard Mb shocks? Found plenty of threads with Eibach/mgzs ride heights but none with standard shocks. Sorry to keep posting these dam eibach questions, just want to solve the puzzle between mgzs and mb dampers and get the the things fitted

Anyone got a picture of there mb on Eibach springs and standar mb shockc????

Well a front shock has gone on the mgzs set up we have on our mb6, and I have a set of eibach 30mm springs in the garden so it's decision time. I can a) buy two new front mgzs shocks, and fit the 30mm civic mb6 Eibach springs. buy the Koni str kit from larkspeed which apparently come with laufours springs, and fit either eibach or laufours to Koni shocks. Or C) buy set of four KYB oem style shocks designed for Mb6, and fit eibach to those. So let's see your rides heights please! Mg/eibach, Koni str/ eibach, and mb6 shock/eibach. Comments on ride quality would also be greatly helpfull, please hit me up with pics, I can't decide! Koni way would cost me 280, KYB standards all round 176, mgzs fronts only 100, tough choice