dr_broon Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 out of curiosity I've checked the printouts from when I've had 4 wheel alignments done, and compared before and after the spacers.by fitting the spacers to lift the front, it's reduced the camber at the front, but increased the camber at the back. (by increased I mean more -ve camber if that makes sense?)and I also came across the reciept for the eibachs, and you're right mate, it's the same spring for 1.4 through to the vti. 1"£££$££"!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 more weight on rear simon,full fuel tank will alter this, they asked me how much fuel in my car when mine was done. bloody spring kits 30mm for mb8 and 40mm mc2 coz the weight then!!!!!!!the advantage with mine so stiff doesnt alter mgzs180 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_broon Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 the tank was pretty empty when I got it done... I think that lifting the nose has shifted more weight onto the back wheels by moving the centre of gravity backwards though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 off topic wee bit.brother has v8 esprit when changing rear exhaust to sport type it changes front Geomtery and need reseting..because its over rear axel so leverage alters fronts result, understeer..not nice on a 175mph car.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLaSoul Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Staying on the spring topic first off - I have 350lbs 2.25" springs on the front, 200lbs 2.25" on the rear which Avo recommended based on the weight of the car and the weight split front/rear. Setting the car to "nose just below level" and resetting the cambers (I would need the geo sheet to find the exact values) the car is just awesome to drive. Even with the damping setting relatively low the car is x10 better than stock.Regards the "rake" of the chassis aka difference in the front/rear ride height - this is normal and a tuning aid on race cars. Ride height can be used to control traction in conjunction with anti roll bars. I try and aim for the front slightly lower than the rear - personal preference.out of curiosity I've checked the printouts from when I've had 4 wheel alignments done, and compared before and after the spacers.by fitting the spacers to lift the front, it's reduced the camber at the front, but increased the camber at the back. (by increased I mean more -ve camber if that makes sense?)Yeap - it should do. The difference in the lengths of the upper and lower links on a road car will always cause this. As the suspension compresses (or you lower the car) the camber should become more negative. Don't quote me but I think it's called a "rising rate of camber change". I always try and fit adjustable upper links to be able to compensate when lowering the car, otherwise you can wear out the inner edges of the tyre quicker during normal driving (more camber = more grip during quicker corners BUT makes the car less forgiving on the edge - been there spun that )I have a link I can PM that explains this better, it's for radio controlled cars but it is still applicable to road cars. I read this back in uni and it helped me understand suspension dynamics.MMM!! think an adjustable rear arb link would be the way to go, dala soul was thinking along these lines I have multiple pick up points on my rear LCA's to fine tune the roll bars effect. I want to make adjustable links to fine tune/remove the preload on the bar. So far though I have found the stock position a good compromise for road/fast driving. When I get some time to make my links I will test them and post the results.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_broon Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Good info there Dave.I'm deffinately going to lift the back up coz that can be done by changing where the spring cup sits on the koni shocks, but seriously considering getting some camber control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
domandmel Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 going back on topic, i have seen Gav's build up threa, and he is running with PI springs with a 40mm drop alround, and his sits perfect, but he is rocking an MC1....if the MC2 is heavuer, then surely i would get more drop on the front with the extra weight (PI list springs for the whole MC range). now if the fk springs list for the whole range too, but only have 35mm drop on the front, then they should sit perfect on my MC2?! can anybody see my logic? or am i just chatting bollocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 bet the 35mm is an average on the fk.. done some searching seems like mgzs180 has 375F/300R !!moto build do kit for the v6 180= 400 f/roem is very firm really Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastgtir Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 if you know your spring rates etc..can't faulkner knock up some custom springs??i remember them doing a few sets for saxo owners and ppl with coilovers etc?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLaSoul Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 going back on topic, i have seen Gav's build up threa, and he is running with PI springs with a 40mm drop alround, and his sits perfect, but he is rocking an MC1....if the MC2 is heavuer, then surely i would get more drop on the front with the extra weight (PI list springs for the whole MC range). now if the fk springs list for the whole range too, but only have 35mm drop on the front, then they should sit perfect on my MC2?! can anybody see my logic? or am i just chatting bollocks?No, you're not talking bollocks, I can see the logic. What you need to find out is the actual weight difference between the 2 cars. If it's only a few kilos then it's not as bad as you think in terms of height difference when fitted. The other question is are the springs linear or progressive? I went through this minefield when choosing my springs, but most companies I spoke to where happy to help edit: ps for going off topic earlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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