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Temp gauge issues


vtismill
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Would have thought if there was a waterpump issue you'd be running too hot?

 

Anyway as above, I'm inclined to believe the stat to be at fault, plus a potential faulty replacement! There was a really good "How to" written about parking the car facing uphil to aid with bleeding the coolant system! Though when I had a failed thermostat on my EK I just started it with the rad and expansion bottle caps off and kept topping them up until no more bubbles came out and the fan was kicking in regularly! Took a while but best to spend more time and do it properly!

 

Edit: http://civic5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6013-how-to-fill-and-bleed-a-rad-the-awesome-way/

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Something that dyno daze rich advised me to do many moons ago. Is to disconnect the rad hose and poor some boiling water down there and hold it for a min. Then reconnect hose quick and fill the system with coolant.

The thermostat will open enough to get coolant passed the stat so you don't get an airlock on the other side of the stat. It worked for me after about two hours fighting a loosing battle not shifting the air.

I also like to go round all the hoses squeezing and watching the air bubble come up out the rad neck.

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Recently the temp gauge has been reading lower then usual on my car and not reaching proper temperature at all, even after a long drive it will just sit above minimum, changed the thermostat yesterday and bled cooling system but still no change, hoses are getting warm and heaters are blowing warmish so surely can't be faulty stat? think it could be temp gauge sensor or something? I don't really know, I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and that made no difference, bit lost really, any ideas would be appreciated thanks

 

Try replacing the temp gauge sensor, that worked on mine! Really easy to do and part costs barely pennies.

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My thermostat has been changed and seems to have solved the issue so far. How have you been bleeding the system? Guy from my work bled mine and he kept radiator cap off, turned inside blowers to max and kept the car at high revs for periods of time. Their was obvious amounts of air coming out and the temp gauge even rose to nearly red. Then all of a sudden the coolant sunk into radiator and gauge shot down= air lock gone. temp gauge has been fine past few days and heat inside the cabin is now immense lol.

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My thermostat has been changed and seems to have solved the issue so far. How have you been bleeding the system? Guy from my work bled mine and he kept radiator cap off, turned inside blowers to max and kept the car at high revs for periods of time. Their was obvious amounts of air coming out and the temp gauge even rose to nearly red. Then all of a sudden the coolant sunk into radiator and gauge shot down= air lock gone. temp gauge has been fine past few days and heat inside the cabin is now immense lol.

Yeah that sounds about right! As long as he topped it up when the coolant suddently got sucked in!  

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Thanks for all your replys, unfortunately still not sorted, bled it again today but no joy, flushed radiator and that isn't blocked, jacked car up took hose off like kink said and poured boiling water down, thermostat seemed to be working and coolant circulating and heaters got red hot, basically emptied it all again and cut end of a 2 litre bottle and filled radiator through that and all that sort of thing so air bubbles would rise into bottle, Squeezed pipes and left it running for ages, no more bubbles arose, it reached temperature, thought it was sorted took it for drive instantly gauge got lower and lower and back to square one, getting quite fed up with it. Guy at honda said it would be a blocked rad, another mechanic had no idea if it wasn't stat, been like it for weeks, surely can't still have air in it? bottom hose was nice and warm till I drove it, then just went cold, but it is all circulating I'm sure of it, glad you got it sorted spudley! thought it could be gauge sensor till bottom hose kept getting cold. Losing the will,

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Your getting over cooling, so the cooling system is essentially working, as said above a blocked rad or duff water pump would cause the opposite and you'd be overheating or running hot

I'd personally try another stat as it's not unheard off for new ones to be duff

Are you loosing heat when the bottom hose is cold?

My money is still on thermostat as it's classic over cooling symptoms

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You tried bleeding with the cap off and hold the revs quite high. It took us about 30-45 mins in total to do the bleed. I know how frustrated you must feel bud especially at this time of year cause im guessing your radiators wont be as hot as they should be either.

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