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Everything posted by Dexter

  1. Update: this winter i've noticed that on very slippery conditions and on slow speeds, the abs works intermittently. Let's say i'm going down a icy road at 40km/h (25mph), jam the breaks, and the abs will go on and off multiple times during the duration of the braking. So kind of works but... lacks power? Could it be the abs pump on its way out?
  2. You mean silicone the gasket to make a more secure fit? What kind of silicone? I've used hondabond when changing rocker cover gaskets.
  3. Really nice, have been thinking about a yellow deck myself also. Imho it would be even better with white wheels now...
  4. I'm suspecting an oil leak somewhere inside the engine which causes the car to burn even more oil than a vtec honda normally would. It feels like i'm topping up more often than before. I've also had oil frequently inside one of the spark plug wells even after changing the gaskets, for a few years now.
  5. My problem got sorted by replacing the o2 sensor. It's become a yearly thing now, this fall i swapped it before mot and passed without any notifications. The old sensor was totally black. But in your case it has to be something different. Have you checked compression and for vacuum leaks? Dizzy bearing?
  6. I mean i still have stock cams, but itr or skunk2 tuner stage 1 most probably are the ones to go in eventually. I had skunk2 cam gears fitted 5 years ago but haven't even gotten around to expermenting with different timings... maybe next summer . To be honest i think i should do a complete engine rebuild, i've got almost 170000 miles on the clock!
  7. No need to remove the bonnet. Wipers need to go, and then some plastic clips if i remember correctly... it's been 10 years since i removed mine to clear up a clogged drain hole. Removed roof rails maybe 5 years ago to get a better machine polish, found no rust underneath.
  8. Spare wheel compartment and behind the rear license plate.
  9. Can a worn bearing affect abs on all wheels? Last time i had to have one replaced abs was working fine. And i haven't noticed any noise but might as well give all corners a little shake next time i get the deck on a lift.
  10. Aerodeck VTi abs not working. When breaking hard, instead of applying abs the pedal suddenly goes in deeper and locks the brakes. No abs light, no fault codes. No fluid leaks in the system. I did get the brake lines replaced last spring, so might have something to do with the issue. I've checked the lines and made sure everything has been done properly and every line goes where they are supposed to. Any idea what might cause the abs system to malfunction, without turning on the abs light?
  11. Thanks, it's coming, slowly but surely! Yesterday marked 10 years of ownership of my deck, and i'm still as happy with it as in 2009. Maybe even more! Never had thoughts about selling her, and no such plans in the future. It's been a great car in every possible way. It's been slammed on 17's in the summers, driven through the harsh finnish winters on 15's, helped me move house 3 times, hauled band equipment, hauled a*s on the track, and ofcourse given me the occasional headache... but nothing that couldn't be sorted out it the end. Reliable, so good looking, and who would not love revving a small station wagon upto 8400rpm . Civic5 was such an important community to me back then, i barely knew anything about working on cars, let alone "Britcivics" as we call the realitvely rare M's over here. Can't but appreciate the support and camaraderie i received here in the beginning and over the years, and did my best to give back when had the chance. The past few of years have seen me change jobs, move to downtown Helsinki and start college, which have all put the deck a bit more on the backburner, and as a result i kind of drifted off the forum, even though it was never the plan. But every summer i get back wrenching, upgrading and hard driving... hopefully will be able to focus on the deck more sooner than later, and perhaps even on the forum. So just want to say thanks to everyone who's shared the journey with me and especially to those who still keep this site alive! It's a shame to see forums as a media dwindle down and get slowly replaced by Facebook pages, at least that's what's happening over here in Finland. But i hope Civic5 stays online for as long as our little m's keep embarassing other traffic on the streets around Europe. It really meant a lot to win Car of the month back in the day, let alone to be knighted when i never expected it. Great site, great people, greats cars. What more can i say .
  12. That's a possibility. I could, or maybe i can find someone here who could test it...
  13. No i haven't, but runs just fine with the stock ecu so pretty much rules that one out.
  14. I got mine from a local supplier here in Finland for a good price. At that time they didn't make a Mc2 specific kit, so bought one for Eg6. Fits perfect, but sits relatively low even on the highest setting. But still enough adjustment so i can drive snow, track and stanced.
  15. Nice find man. I chose Bc racing over MeisterR in the end for my deck, and haven't regretted!
  16. I'd go for a new caliper to be on the safe side. I had a sticky hand brake lever on my MC2 rear caliper for some time. I would work it back and forth as much as it would move and grease it whenever i had the wheel off, but last spring it ended up seizing and heated my rear brake disc bright red with the result that the caliper rubber boot disintegrated. Wasted my money on a rebuild kit that was impossible to fit (atleast with my skills and tools) and had to buy a new caliper, and hand brake cable in the end.
  17. So finally got myself a refurbed P28 ecu with Hondata S300 ready to plug and play from H-tune. Took it to a respectable tuner, and in absence of a B18C4 basemap he downloaded a close-enough map from the Hondata website and started with dealing with the engine fault codes that came on. Once sorted out, started the engine, and it would cut off at 2000rpm and not show any codes. After fiddling around the map with the laptop for a while, without any particular reason, the engine started working as normal and he proceeded to map the car on the dyno. Once it was done, i took it for a test drive, and the same thing as in the beginning happened again: limp mode at 2000rpm. Took it back, laptop back on, no fault codes, he looked through the whole map and each menu again without finding any problems, and after a bit suddenly it worked again. So i started driving home, car worked great, and after a while i stopped for coffee. When i started the engine again: limp mode. And no matter what, i couldn't get it working properly again. So had to swap back the original ecu to get back home. The tuner said there isn't really much he can do, since there was nothing to be found with the S300 manager program to point to the source of the limp mode. He said all he could think of was that there's some sort of compatibilty problem with the P28 and B18C4 that doesn't show on Hondata, and my best bet for now would be internet research. So here i am. I've searched the forum pretty thoroughly and read pretty much every thread with P28 on the title, but can't seem to figure this out. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  18. By replacing the muffler . I got one custom made at Martelius, now is perfect. I think it was this one i had earlier: https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=14816
  19. 2" if i remember correctly. I had a Magnaflow silencer on mine, was quite boomy and not that much fun in the end for highway cruising.
  20. Luckily they're pretty cheap, i'll give it a shot. And i'd be ready to slip quite a lot more than a few quid to get a pass, this is getting a bit boring year after year! But on the other hand, otherwise the deck is working spot on i'd like to keep it that way. Been allready 9 years under my ownership.
  21. Sooo... it's a third year in a row failing mot due to high emissions. This time it's running quite rich, lambda shows 0.6. Co% and HC about 10 tenfold past the limits. And can't seem to find the source. Here's my investigation so far: - no vacuum leaks - compression test ok - no visible leaks in exhaust system - plugs in need of change but nothing critical about their condition - plug wires ok - timing ok - ecu reseted - worn cap + rotor, a little bit of play in dizzy axle + dizzy a bit noisy = gonna replace distributor. But not in such a bad condition that would explain the richness. - coolant reservoir was empty, only a bit of dark brown muck on the bottom. At first thought it was oil, but when i rinsed it turned out was (atleast mostly) dirt etc. Discovered a small crack on the reservoir lid, might be a cause. Besides the reservoir no other clues pointing to a possibly leaking head gasket. Any ideas what to look for? One suggestion was that a faulty heat sensor etc. could be feeding the ecu wrong info and messing up the mix? Valve stem leak also one possible cause. In addition to the dizzy i'm planning on replacing the ecu with a p28 with Hondata to get better data about what's happening. And ofcourse once it's fixed, then it's tuning time .
  22. Welcome Samuel! I had an overheating issue with my deck (B18 though) some years back and got it cured by replacing the radiator, even though the old one showed no external signs of damage. Hope you get the issue sorted out.
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