hickster

Check your trottle cable/ TB aren't sticking?

If you are using the car for what it's best at which is fuel economy then an oem one is best. If you want less rust or better looks then a stainless cat back made to your spec is the best bet. Longlife seem to be the most highly rated by members here at the moment I think.

SSR still make wheels (not Star Sharks though ). Looking at the XXR site they call these the 'Throwback' but as they export 60% of their stock to Japan I guess they can't copy anything directly. They have done a right good design job on these wheels I think .

SSR still make wheels (not Star Sharks though ). Looking at the XXR site they call these the 'Throwback' but as they export 60% of their stock to Japan I guess they can't copy anything directly. They have done a right good design job on these wheels I think .

Yeah the grub screw method might depend on the quality of the knob. I'm using a Momo Gara- no chance of it coming loose once its stabbed itself onto the shaft and the screws dont vibrate off. Cheaper copies might not be as effective, not sure. I had a fairly cheap alloy screw on type with a nylon insert and to be fair it stayed put- I just changed it because alloy knobs are really cold in the middle of winter!

Yeah the grub screw method might depend on the quality of the knob. I'm using a Momo Gara- no chance of it coming loose once its stabbed itself onto the shaft and the screws dont vibrate off. Cheaper copies might not be as effective, not sure. I had a fairly cheap alloy screw on type with a nylon insert and to be fair it stayed put- I just changed it because alloy knobs are really cold in the middle of winter!

Nearly all universal types will fit (apart from lift-reverse). Most do away with the screw and push on then tighten with grub screws on the shaft. Most decent ones will come with two or three inserts for different diameter shafts.

Nearly all universal types will fit (apart from lift-reverse). Most do away with the screw and push on then tighten with grub screws on the shaft. Most decent ones will come with two or three inserts for different diameter shafts.

Replacing the entire wing mirror is reasonably straight forward (remove door trim and the small triangle trim or tweeter trim if you have them and remove the three screws and unclip the wiring connenctor). Looking at these photos I did for replacing the glass it looks as if the resistance on the hinge is created by a wire spring, this is probably what you have broken or dislodged. From this angle it looks as if you can seperate the two halves by undoing the three screws underneath the pivot, thereby keeping the original boss section? There should be some 'how to' s on removing the door trim on here somewhere.

Replacing the entire wing mirror is reasonably straight forward (remove door trim and the small triangle trim or tweeter trim if you have them and remove the three screws and unclip the wiring connenctor). Looking at these photos I did for replacing the glass it looks as if the resistance on the hinge is created by a wire spring, this is probably what you have broken or dislodged. From this angle it looks as if you can seperate the two halves by undoing the three screws underneath the pivot, thereby keeping the original boss section? There should be some 'how to' s on removing the door trim on here somewhere.

Yes, discussed in this thread- viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9061 As a very unscientific rule of thumb the short ratio box on the D14 makes it good on b road/ town economy but the extra legs on the D15 make it an excellent mile cruncher once it gets going.

Yes, discussed in this thread- viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9061 As a very unscientific rule of thumb the short ratio box on the D14 makes it good on b road/ town economy but the extra legs on the D15 make it an excellent mile cruncher once it gets going.

Welcome, nice motor! Looks good with the colour coded mirrors, handles and bump strips- I think that was quite an expensive optional extra when new? Like the alloys as well, much better- 17's are a bit big for the state of the roads around my way but they suit the look of the car much better .

That looks pretty immaculate from the pics, even the alloys . Good find! What kind of mileage does it have on it?

Also Haynes are a bit vague (as usual ) about the torque sequence but I think they have it for the D15Z8 as- 20nm / 49nm / 67nm then re sequence at 67. Best to check with Adam or a Honda tech about that though.

Yep they are the real deal. Haynes recommend marking the original positions of the bolts and refitting them back as they were and to retap the threads-probably a good idea. Then lubricate with clean oil and tighten in sequence (should be easy to find on the net, its the usual inside- out style) as you would for sh!tty stretch bolts. Not done this job on a D yet but as they're so well made it should be a lot easier than most engines I would have thought (it's a heart stopping job on an Alfa I can tell you!).

Think that's just a trim isn't it? Should be ok with that but the insurance will fleece you for the most insignificant of mods; anything to get out of a payout. Wheels are not usually a problem ifyou declare them. The 1.4 is more of a saxo/golf beater due to the short ratio box (no joke I drove the MA8 and a mk4 golf GTI back to back daily for several years). The MB3 is pretty handy if you can keep the revs up though. Yeah perhaps lose the towhook and a few rear badges. Looks like a tidy first car though!

Nice wheels I also prefer these. I am sure I have seen this design before; are they a rep of an old Japanese wheel? The name is making me think of SSR but can't quite place them. The nuts you want are probably tuner style. McGard make locking tuner nuts in m12 x 1.5. Harder for scallywags to undo with grips as well.

Could be a front ball joint issue perhaps. Also check the condition of your trailing arm bushes at the back. Any odd noises or vibrations when driving?

I have never found the NGK lists to be innaccurate so far. If they think you can run ZFR6FIX then I would do it- they work well on the z8. If Honda list ZFR6 as oe I presume they updated them during the production run of that engine; I expect the differences are small. ZFR's are not that different to BKR's used on non vtec D's- as you have found out.

Wow summer in Bulgaria must be worse than here! If you mean 3.5bar that's over 50psi which is way too much I would have thought. Stock on 14's is 36psi max? (not got the manual handy). I am running 15" Falken 502's (stiff sidewalls) at 30psi. The stock pressures should be on a sticker in one of the front door shuts.

I came across these guys when I was looking at moving alloys around. I haven't used them but I like the way they have set the pricing out; usefull for comparison if nothing else (scroll down to the body parts section). http://www.wheelcourier.com/book.html I literally binned my old wing this morning so I can't weigh it for you I'm afraid, sorry!

Tell me about it! Try making a claim for contents as well . Been broken into 3 times in as many years, apparently all you need to break into a Peugot boxer is a stanly knife- probably doesn't help on the insurance front! The Aerodeck is fast becoming the mountainbikers wagon of choice; those Volvo/ passat peeps just aint got no style! Have you seen the news this week?- http://dirt.mpora.com/news/ktm-uk-fli-distribution.html Oooh! That'll work! For wheels check out Tegiwa's selection of Sprint alloys (Interga OEM copies). Accords have larger wheels that also fit.

Those are the ones.

Yep £34 a corner for me at the moment!